The best neighborhoods to visit in Louisville

Many visitors to Louisville never travel beyond Downtown, which makes sense: this compact and walkable district is packed with some of the best museums in the South, as well as top-notch bars, restaurants and distilleries. What’s not to like?

But Louisville’s charm extends to its historic neighborhoods, too. Celebrated architectural treasures like Victorian mansions, German-built shotgun and camelback homes and renovated meatpacking warehouses help shape a patchwork of unique personalities colored with travel-worthy breweries and distilleries, quirky shops and some of the South’s best restaurants.

It’s easy to get around Louisville and explore on a budget. Here are the best neighborhoods to check out while you’re here.

A colorful mural of boxer Muhammad Ali on the wall of a parking garage.

Mural of boxer Muhammad Ali by artist Ashley Cathey located in Museum Row. BD Images/Shutterstock BD Images / Shutterstock

1. Downtown Louisville

Best for museums and distilleries

It’s easy to get sucked into Downtown’s charms and leave Louisville without ever escaping its grasp – it’s easily one of the most compact and navigable cultural corridors in the entire American South. Victorian-era buildings and their extraordinary cast-iron facades share real estate with striking contemporary architecture, creating a neighborhood that is as visually compelling as its iconic Americana allure.

The city is anchored by a head-spinning arsenal of arts and culture attractions on and around West Main Street, known as Museum Row, including the Muhammad Ali Center and Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory – two of the most emblematic icons in American sports history. Nearly all of most celebrated attractions except Churchill Downs and the Kentucky Derby Museum sit here within 0.4 miles of each other – the Kentucky Center for the Performing Arts, the Evan Williams Bourbon Experience, Kentucky Science Center, KMAC Museum, 21c Museum Hotel and the Frazier History Museum among them.  

Surrounding these attractions are some of the South’s most interesting and dynamic food (Proof on Main) and drink (Meta, Ei8htUp, Hell or High Water) establishments, several worthwhile distilleries (Old Forester Distilling Co, Michter’s Fort Nelson Distillery) and an arts-driven focus that gives the entire quarter a sense of creative fervor. Home to one of the largest collections of cast-iron facades outside of New York City’s SoHo neighborhood, Downtown is easy on the eyes as well.

2. Germantown

Best for atmospheric bars

Germantown and its sister neighborhood, Schnitzelberg, are located about three miles southeast of Downtown on either side of Goss Ave. Once a marshy swampland, the area was settled by German immigrants throughout the second half of the 19th century and today is famed for being home to one of the largest collections of surviving shotgun and camelback homes in the US.

Traditionally a working-class neighborhood, Germantown has been a hotbed of divey neighborhood bars dating to the arrival of the beer-loving Germans; today, the district skews younger and somewhat alternative, but its reputation as a watering hole for a stiff drink or a cold brew remain. It’s the kind of place that’s perfect for transforming a former auto garage into a quirky bar/consignment shop (ShopBar) or where dive bars like The Pearl of Germantown and The Nachbar serve beers with a shot to both bearded hipsters and construction workers without irony.

Monnik Brewing Co. in Schnitzelberg is one of Louisville’s best craft breweries both in beer quality and atmosphere, and their beer cheese with spent grain bread is one of the best versions of this unique Kentucky dish you’ll find anywhere in the state.

An overhead view of three dishes filled with food on a table.

Naive restaurant in Butchertown. Louisville Tourism © Louisville Tourism

3. Butchertown

Best for epicurean delights

The area just east of Downtown was dominated by butcher shops and stockyards throughout the 1800s. Today JBS Foods is the lone survivor and protein anchor for Butchertown, a neighborhood now listed on the US Register of Historic Places due to Washington Street’s Greek Revival architecture, shotgun homes and St. Joseph Catholic Church dating back to 1886.

Butchertown’s revival owes a deep debt to dining and shopping, which coincide with Louisville’s city-wide post-Great Recession hipsterfication. When Bourbon Stockyards – the longest continuously operating stockyard in the US – shuttered in 1995, the neighborhood collapsed. But cheap rents and alternative spaces soon lured innovative chefs and retail visionaries, who kicked off one of the city’s coolest reincarnations. Butchertown Market was one of the city’s first establishments to convert a slaughterhouse into a cutting-edge retail space.

Butchertown’s food and beverage scene now dominates the district. Feeling peckish? Naive, Pho Ba Luu and Cultured Cheese & Charcuterie are sustenance staples. The new Copper & Kings Rooftop Bar and Restaurant has opened above the already-established Copper & Kings, Bourbon County’s only brandy distillery. TEN20 Craft Brewery also keeps neighborhood thirst at bay.

4. NuLu

Best for shopping

Downtown’s East Market Street just south of Butchertown was originally known as the East Market District, but hip re-branding has christened the neighborhood NuLu (New Louisville) – home to thriving art galleries, antique shops and local-centric creative specialty retail stores. The district’s history as a hubbub of commerce dates to the early 1800s; throughout the 19th century, the street was dominated by markets, stockyards and retailers.

Local shops dominate the landscape here. Unique home goods and Kentucky-themed gifts (Revelry), locally driven bath products (Peace of the Earth), coveted caramel-covered marshmallow confections called Modjeskas (Muth’s Candies) and hand-crafted leather (Clayton & Crume) are just a sample of the imaginative retail fare in NuLu.

Like most Louisville neighborhoods worth their name in grain, distilleries (Rabbit Hole, Angel’s Envy), breweries (West Sixth, Akasha, Goodword) and great eateries (Mayan Cafe, Feast BBQ) also feature, so refueling after some retail therapy is not a problem.

An aerial view of the Highlands neighborhood in Louisville at sunset.

The Highlands district, Louisville. Louisville Tourism © Louisville Tourism

5. The Highlands

Best for craft beer

Before every neighborhood in Louisville offered a head-spinning laundry list of outstanding food and drink, there was Bardstown Road, the city’s original Restaurant Row. The fun begins three miles or so southeast of Downtown, where a three-mile stretch of Baxter Avenue and Bardstown Road – which leads out of Louisville into the heart of the Bourbon Trail – is known as the Highlands for its location atop a ridge between Beargrass Creek’s middle and south forks.

Bustling with nocturnal diversion, the Highlands is the perfect neighborhood to position yourself for a deep weekend run on the bars. For connoisseurs of craft, that might mean worshipping at the altar of rare Old World brews inside a converted church at Holy Grale or IPAs, German-style pilsners and barrel-aged sours at Gravely Brewing Co. Highlands Taproom offers another 25 choice brews on draft.

But the Highlands can’t be solely characterized as a craft haven – this is a come one, come all stretch of watering holes. Both Hunter S. Thompson and Jack Harlow grew up here, which personifies Highland’s eclectic personalities. Classic dives like Bambi Bar share real estate with traditional Irish pubs like Molly Malone’s, Flanagan’s Ale House and O’Shea’s and welcoming LGBTQI+ hangouts like Big Bar and Chill Bar. With the addition of two new hip accommodations, Bungalou and The Bellwether, the stumble back home is even shorter!

Wide shot of an ornate fountain in a round pool surrounded by a low metal fence with brick homes in the background.

St James Court in Old Louisville. EQRoy/Shutterstock EQRoy / Shutterstock

6. Old Louisville

Best for a taste of the Victorian era

The neighborhood of Old Louisville boasts the largest collection of restored Victorian homes in the country and is the third-largest Historical Preservation District in the US. Across about 40 blocks sandwiched between W Broadway, one mile south of Downtown’s Louisville Slugger Museum & Factory, and the University of Louisville’s main campus south of W Hill St, Victorian mansions were constructed in a wide range of styles at the tail end of the 1883–1887 Southern Exposition (a five-year series of World’s Fairs held in Louisville).

In addition to the architectural eye candy on display throughout the district, Old Louisville hosts numerous B&Bs, which makes it a very charming neighborhood to come home to after a day of sightseeing and bourbon-swilling. Sleeping here leaves you perfectly positioned to visit attractions in Downtown, the Speed Art Museum at the southern end of Old Lousiville, and key South Louisville sights such as Churchill Downs and the Kentucky Derby Museum, Iroquis Park, Kentucky Kingdom and Jefferson Memorial Forest, one of the largest urban municipal forests in the country.

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The 16 best places to visit in Florida

From sunny, white-sand beaches and untamed subtropical mangrove forests to bustling space centers and theme parks packed with excited kids, Florida is one gigantic fantasyland.

Choosing the best places to visit in Florida is no mean feat. Whether you’re slipping away on a romantic escape or making family memories, let this list guide shape your time in the Sunshine State.  

Palm and city skyline views of the Brickell neighborhood waterfront in Miami, Florida

Sunset over Miami’s skyline. ALBERTO GV/Shutterstock ALBERTO GV / Shutterstock

1. Miami, the “Magic City”

Best for parties and nightlife

With pastel-colored art deco buildings trimming sparkling azure waters, Miami screams tropics. One of America’s most visited cities, this bustling metropolis scores big with urban see-and-be-seen types. Crowd lovers bask in South Beach‘s iconic energy, slathering on sunscreen to soak up scorching rays and indulging in the best people-watching opportunities the planet offers. Those who prefer a bit more solitude can escape to Miami Beach Botanical Garden, a free tropical oasis with meandering paths, native plants and curated gardens. And, for those who energize after dark, Miami’s packed world-renowned clubs epitomize wicked all-nighters.

Miami scores big with foodies, too, who savor its tasty cuisines enhanced with strong Cuban and Caribbean flavors. And while the neon promenades of Miami’s beaches garner much of the attention, the Design District is worth a visit. Wynwood is the city’s heart of art and culture, home to numerous galleries and studios with spectacular street art at Wynwood Walls and the Museum of Graffiti.

Detour: A world apart, yet only 50 miles (80km) away, the Everglades offer a very different kind of wildness. Airboat, camp or take scenic drives to see gators and other exotic wildlife.

2. Vero Beach

Best for calm, romantic getaways

For a more sedate experience, visit the skyscraper-less beach of this under-the-radar jewel, just 150 miles (241km) north of Miami. There’s little in the way of nightlife, but many find it a delightful reprieve. Embrace each new day with meditative yoga, digging your toes into warm sand as the sun rises over the ocean at pop star Gloria Estefan’s Costa d’Este resort (non-guests welcome). Grab an award-winning burger at Casey’s Place, a throwback to outdoor burger shacks of the 1970s, and learn the juicy history of Florida oranges at the tiny Indian River Citrus Museum. For beachside cocktails and a dash of maritime history, The Boiler encourages cozy evenings (or afternoons – they open early!) of conversation by the bar’s entrancing aquarium.

Detour: Visit A.E. Backus Museum and Florida Highwaymen Museum in nearby Fort Pierce and become instant fans of this famous Florida landscape artist and the talented African-American painters he inspired.

People splash down a log flume at Universal, Florida, on a sunny day.

Universal Studios in Orlando, Florida. Kamira/Shutterstock ©Kamira/Shutterstock

3. Orlando

Best for theme parks and family activities

A place where dreams come true, Orlando is a cosmopolitan city sprinkled with pixie dust. Sure, there’s serious business going on here, but you wouldn’t know it basking inside a sun-kissed swan paddle boat on Lake Eola, surrounded by towering skyscrapers in the heart of downtown. The ultimate in family fun, Orlando offers Disney parks and Universal – theme parks that are bound to keep kids awake weeks before arriving. There’s also a chocolate museum and a star-car museum.

When you really need a break from all the crowds and chaos (and you will!), stroll or cycle along Orlando’s Urban Trail to Leu Gardens, a tranquil 50-acre botanical paradise, or relax in the sculpture garden at the Mennello Museum of American Art. Just north of the city proper, Winter Park has boutique shops, cozy cafés, art and history museums, and the Winter Park Farmers’ Market every Saturday. Explore the area with a scenic boat tour or explore the impressive collections at the Morse Museum.

Detour: Outside of the theme parks, you’ll find attractions, restaurants and plenty of touristy kitsch, including the World’s Largest McDonald’s, along the bustling strip of International Drive. ICON Park is an entertainment complex featuring restaurants and live music, an aquarium, a celebrity wax museum and the towering Orlando Eye.

4. St Augustine

Best for history and arresting architecture

Step back in time by wandering ancient cobblestone streets in St Augustine, America’s oldest city. Settled by Spaniards in 1565, the facades of Old Town buildings reflect the Spanish-Colonial and Spanish Renaissance Revival eras. Its main thoroughfare, St George Street, is packed with charming boutiques, tacky souvenir shops, and restaurants overlooking the glimmering waters of the Matanzas River. If museums, galleries and churches are up your alley, there are plenty of those nearby as well. From the unspoiled sands of Anastasia State Park to the coquina watchtower of Fort Matanzas, Anastasia Island offers plenty of shoreside fun for beachgoers visiting Northeast Florida.

St Augustine is a haven for history lovers, from witnessing live reenactments at the Castillo de San Marcos to sipping from the Fountain of Youth. Even the eateries are rife with history, like the Columbia Restaurant with its Old World architecture and Spanish recipes that have been on the menu for more than a century.

Beautiful seafront of Fort Lauderdale.

Fort Lauderdale’s beautiful seafront. GagliardiPhotography/Shutterstock GagliardiPhotography / Shutterstock

5. Fort Lauderdale

Best for tantalizing beaches and boating

Blessed with an impressive stretch of white-sand beaches and seemingly endless canals, Fort Lauderdale is heralded as the yachting capital of the world and “The Venice of America.” Its annual boat show in October is the world’s largest in-water boating show. Stroll the famous Riverwalk, stop for a beer at the legendary Elbo Room, watch mermaids perform at America’s only underwater burlesque show, or shop and dine along famous Las Olas Boulevard.

Detour: Take a narrated water taxi tour to Hollywood Beach’s lively Broadwalk, passing mansions of the rich and famous along your journey. Buy an express pass or a hop-on, hop-off day pass with 11 scenic stops to enjoy.

Duvall Street with Bagatelle seafood restaurant, Key West.

Duval St in Key West. Justin Foulkes for Lonely Planet ©Justin Foulkes/Lonely Planet

6. Key West

Best for barhopping and snorkeling

Rows of pastel yellow, pink and green conch island homes with gingerbread trim complement Key West’s crystal-clear turquoise waters, transporting you to a world seemingly immune from daily problems. It’s no wonder that world traveler and celebrated author Ernest Hemingway chose this Caribbean-style jewel to settle in during the 1930s (don’t miss the museum about his life).

Browse the marketplace for trinkets at Mallory Square, then catch the hop-on, hop-off trolley to tour the island’s most popular sights. Just a short walk from the Southernmost Point of the Continental USA, Fort Zachary Taylor State Park is perfect for a sun-soaked afternoon of swimming, fishing, paddling and snorkeling. Though laid-back by day, a festive party vibe dominates at night. (Some dive bars along Duval Street get rowdy, so avoid staying in Old Town if you want to sleep!) Key Lime Pie Co bakes up some of the country’s best, and Conch Republic Seafood Company serves killer conch fritters, another Key West delicacy.

Detour: Ferries and seaplanes shuttle from the Florida Keys to the secluded island paradise of Dry Tortugas National Park, which has some of the world’s greatest snorkeling in the shallow Florida Reef.

Worth Avenue in Palm Beach, Florida. Worth Avenue is an upscale shopping and dining district

Shops on Worth Ave in Palm Beach. Leonard Zhukovsky/Shutterstock Leonard Zhukovsky / Shutterstock

7. West Palm Beach

Best for shopping and bargain hunting

West Palm Beach’s palm-lined boulevards welcome visitors to some of Florida’s best shopping. At the heart of it all is The Square, a 72-acre shopping, dining and entertainment complex featuring brand-name retailers and specialty boutiques. Fill your bags, then relax by the central fountain to enjoy free classic rock and country music concerts. Don’t miss the spectacular GreenMarket, a downtown farmers market with more than 120 vendors, every Saturday morning (October to April). Sixty additional flea market booths leading up Clematis St certify it as a bargain hunter’s utopia.

Detour: Take a 10-minute ferry ride to nearby Peanut Island, a snorkeler’s paradise, where crystal-clear waters promise a captivating underwater adventure. It’s all the more extraordinary for being the location of a nuclear bunker built for JFK, though it’s currently closed to the public.

8. Fort Myers, “the City of Palms”

Best for local arts and fishing

Despite the devastation wrought upon the seven miles of coast along Fort Myers Beach during Hurricane Ian in 2022, the recovery is well underway. Sadly, its signature quaint pubs and boardwalk taco stands will be gone as the blank canvas is repainted with glossy chic. But that doesn’t detract from the other riches this beautiful Gulf Coast area boasts. The bricked, palm-lined boulevards of downtown Fort Myers’ River District are enhanced with colorful murals and artistic sculptures and dotted with bistros, cafes, galleries, museums and theaters. Deep-sea anglers reel in massive tarpon and swordfish nearby, while paddleboarders love navigating the Gulf Coast’s calm, clear waters.

One of the best things to do in the area is to pay a visit to nearby Matlacha, a funky fishing village bursting with color at every turn. Also, don’t miss Wonder Gardens, a lush botanical garden and animal rescue facility that first opened in 1936 and is still a throwback to “Old Florida.”

Detour: Nearby Sanibel Island boasts a motherlode of almost 400 species of shells, while Bonita Springs is a quiet enclave with cafes and microbreweries.

9. Pensacola

Best for learning to surf

With emerald-green waters kissing 18 miles (28km) of powdery, sugar-white sand, Pensacola’s spacious beaches are heaven to those seeking a secluded getaway. The unspoiled terrain of Gulf Islands National Seashore, America’s largest stretch of protected coastline, extends from both sides of Pensacola Beach, a haven for water sports enthusiasts. Its warm waters and gentle summer waves make it perfect for learning to surf.

The city itself feels like a cross between an urban hub and a chill beach town, with award-winning eateries and chic boutiques. Seville Quarter, a former cigar warehouse complex, is packed with busy bars and trendy restaurants. Seville Square, a small historic park, hosts many unique music, food and art festivals throughout the year.

Detour: Dolphins regularly swarm the warm coastal waters of Northwest Florida off nearby Destin. Several local boat-tour operators offer guided excursions to observe these splendid creatures from a safe distance within their natural environment. For closer encounters with dolphins, stingrays and other aquatic life, plan a visit to the Gulfarium Marine Adventure Park in Fort Walton Beach.

Dutch architecture buildings in Rosemary Beach, Florida

Rosemary Beach, one of the idyllic towns on Hwy 30A. Angelinamartin/Shutterstock Angelinamartin / Shutterstock

10. Scenic Highway 30A

Best for a coastal drive

Along the Florida Panhandle between the condos of Destin and the spring break hub of Panama City Beach, Scenic Highway 30A is an idyllic stretch that connects a series of quaint beachside towns. Along the corridor, you’ll encounter Old Florida architecture, sugar-white beaches and coastal dune lakes, a geologic rarity found in only two places in the United States. Travel down the highway by car or bike overlooking the sparkling emerald waters of the Gulf of Mexico and soaking in the distinct charms of each town.

Take some time to explore the trails and coastal dune lakes of Grayton Beach State Park, the perfect place to swap your car for a kayak to paddle across the calm, clear waters.

11. Canaveral National Seashore

Best for viewing space shuttle launches

Directly east of Orlando (about an hour’s drive), Canaveral National Seashore rests on the longest stretch of undeveloped beach on Florida’s Atlantic coast. The secluded barrier island acts as a sanctuary for thousands of plant and animal species, from the windswept shores to the tangled mangroves along the lagoon. From June to October, Mosquito Lagoon and Indian River Lagoon emit a mystical blue-green bioluminescent glow, a spectacular living light show as tiny creatures called dinoflagellates react to the movements of boats and animals. Book a guided bioluminescent kayak tour for a truly magical experience.

Many visitors make their way to Canaveral for a different type of observation. Known as the Space Coast, the area provides prime locations for catching a rocket launch from Cape Canaveral. Playalinda Beach is a local favorite for public viewing. For the best experience, though, watch a launch from Kennedy Space Center. During your visit, discover what it’s like to explore space with interactive exhibits, stand in the shadow of the Space Shuttle Atlantis, or even chat with a real astronaut.

A manatee in Crystal River, Florida

A manatee in Crystal River, Florida. Thierry Eidenweil/Shutterstock Thierry Eidenweil / Shutterstock

12. Crystal River

Best for spotting manatees

The manatee is a cherished treasure of Florida wildlife and the official state marine mammal. Due to loss of habitat and boat collisions, Florida manatees are an endangered species, highly protected by both federal and state laws. Although the shy sea cows can be found in coastal waters in the Gulf and up the coast, Crystal River is the best place in Florida to witness the majesty of manatees as they gather inland during the winter months. The peak time to see them is December to February, when the mammals move inland in search of warmer waters.

From hiking and bicycling to boating and fishing, Crystal River Preserve State Park is brimming with opportunities to experience local wildlife and learn about the diverse species that call the region home. Learn about the history of the area’s indigenous human inhabitants at Crystal River Archaeological State Park.

13. Tampa Bay

Best for urban adventures

A bustling metropolis of business, culture and entertainment, there’s a lot to explore in Tampa Bay. The city boasts major attractions including Busch Gardens, ZooTampa and the Florida Aquarium. The area is also home to some of Florida’s best beaches, from Clearwater to St Petersburg.

In downtown Tampa, take a stroll along the Riverwalk, then make your way to Sparkman Wharf for premier shopping, dining and events. Along the coast, splash along the white sand shores of Clearwater Beach or head up to Caladesi Island State Park for a secluded, natural retreat. Down in St Pete, families with young kids will want to spend some time at the Great Explorations Children’s Museum and Sunken Gardens, while art lovers can check out the Dalí Museum’s extensive collection.

Detours: The charming town of Dunedin is a relaxing escape from the busy beaches and city center with breweries, shops and a local artisan market. Slightly further north, find the historic sponge docks of Tarpon Springs. 

Justin Allgaier (7) races for position for the Beef. Its What's For Dinner 300 at Daytona International Speedway in Daytona Beach, Florida.

A race at the Daytona International Speedway. Grindstone Media Group/Shutterstock Grindstone Media Group / Shutterstock

14. Daytona

Best for thrill-seekers

Daytona is known for two things: beaches and racing. From adrenaline-pumping water sports to the high-octane spectacle of Daytona International Speedway, this destination is a thrill-seeker’s paradise. The hard-packed sands along Daytona Beach are great for cruising on an ATV, while the open ocean calls to surfers, paddlers and jet skiers. Parasailers glide high above the shores while scuba divers explore below. Known as the skydiving capital of the world, visitors can take their vacation to new heights in nearby DeLand. Whether it’s your first jump or your fiftieth, SkyDive DeLand offers diving experiences for all skill levels.

Detour: Near DeLand, visitors to the Reptile Discovery Center can experience a different type of thrill. The exhibit is home to dozens of the world’s most dangerous snakes. Observe a live venom extraction (a process that helps produce anti-venom) and view alligators, lizards, tortoises and other reptiles along the nature trail.

15. Ocala National Forest

Best for inland adventures

While Florida’s major cities and beaches get a lot of attention, Ocala National Forest proves that there’s plenty to love about North Central Florida. This sprawling forest features natural pools, canoe runs, walking trails and historic ruins. Alexander Springs, Juniper Springs and Salt Springs all offer unique opportunities to connect with the natural world, whether camping, swimming, paddling, hiking, cycling, diving or snorkeling. This secluded destination provides a tranquil contrast to the bustle of Florida’s theme parks and coastlines.

Detour: For more natural wonders to explore, visit nearby Silver Springs State Park or take a dip in the prehistoric spring at Devil’s Den.

16. Mount Dora

Best for a small-town retreat

Tucked between Orlando and Ocala National Forest is the quiet town of Mount Dora. The colorful architecture and picturesque lighthouse give this destination its fairytale-like charm. Donnelly Park is the town’s central hub, surrounded by the shops, restaurants and museums of the historic district. Allow plenty of time during your visit to browse the sprawling open-air marketplaces at Renniger’s Flea Market & Antique Center, where you never know what treasures you might find. The “Lighthouse Walk” leads to Mount Dora’s most famous landmark; the lighthouse at Grantham Pointe is the only inland freshwater lighthouse in the state.

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A first-time guide to Vichy, France

Vichy, in the center of France, is one of the 11 Great Spa Towns of Europe which in July 2021 were jointly awarded a UNESCO World Heritage Label. Just like its counterparts, Vichy is a town where people come for spa treatments, seeking curative and therapeutic effects from its natural mineral spring waters, which you will have drunk if you’ve ever bought a bottle of Vichy water.

Others just come for a day or two to soak in some 19th-century vibes with the architecture, take in some shows at the spectacular yellow and ivory art nouveau opera house, enjoy gourmet meals, and be sporty on and along the majestic Allier, one of Western Europe’s few remaining wild rivers.

A large red-brick mansion with grand shuttered windows

Napoleon III’s cottage in Vichy. BAUER Alexandre/Shutterstock BAUER Alexandre / Shutterstock

What is Vichy known for?

But Vichy has also been trying hard for the past 80 years to shake off a darker image, at least in the eyes of the French. At its height in the late 19th and early 20th centuries Vichy had up to 250 hotels that could welcome more than 100,000 clients a year. This accommodation capacity, the presence of a modern telephone exchange, and its geographical position south of the German Nazi line of occupation were why the town was chosen by the collaborationist, contested government of France as its capital from July 1940 to August 1944.

Today Vichy is a thriving small town (population: 26,000) which continues to restore its elegant 19th-century heritage and care for its waters, already appreciated by the Romans. The first thermal establishment was built and promenades designed to accommodate Louis XV’s eight daughters (born between 1727 and 1737) enabling them to cool off after the warm baths, digest the water they’d drunk and take therapeutic walks.

But it was the Bonapartes who really pushed Vichy’s development. In 1812, at the request of his mother, Letitia, Napoleon I paid for more promenades to be built and fountains to be installed thereby creating the Parc des Sources, which links the water sources and the baths and forms the town’s backbone.

His nephew Napoleon III (1808–1873), who came five times to treat his renal colic, continued the work. For his first two visits in 1861 and 1862 the city authorities put the Villa Strauss at his disposal. In thanks, he decreed an urban development plan with a railway station, a new street layout and a casino, where visitors sedately played cards and board-games!

In 1863 architect Jean Lefaure built him a “chalet” (more of a small mansion!), the “Marie-Louise”, but it faced the boulevard and the emperor wanted greater privacy so had Lefaure build him two others facing the river Allier: one for him, one for his long-suffering wife the Empress Eugenie. These two chalets at 107 and 108 boulevard des États-Unis bear a discreet crown and initials “N” and “E” above their respective doors. They, and the four others in a row next to them, are privately owned so you can’t visit them but you get a very good view of them from the riverside park.

Lefaure also designed eight identical villas along the rue Alquié for the imperial guard, but after Napoleon ceased visiting Vichy these villas were sold. Each new owner modified their villa so n°21 remains the closest to the original design.

A covered wrought-iron walkway through parkland

The covered walkway in Parc des Sources. RossHelen/Getty Images RossHelen/Getty Images

When should I go to Vichy?

May to October are the nicest months. Bring or rent your sumptuous crinolines, parasols and top hats if visiting in mid-June for the annual Napoleon III festivities when the town slides 150 years back to the hey-day of imperial gaiety. From September to May you can enjoy a wide variety of shows at the sumptuous art deco opera house and shop…even on Sundays because, since 1906, this is one of the very few towns in France where shops are permitted to open on that day.

How long should I spend in Vichy?

If you’re coming to just visit the town then you’ll see most of the sights in two days. You can also book up to five days of health and beauty treatments and intersperse these with cultural activities. If you come for a thermal cure prescribed by a doctor then the minimal stay is 21 days.

The Vichy cure is indicated for the treatment of metabolic diseases such as type 2 diabetes (non-insulin-dependent), high cholesterol and/or triglycerides and/or uric acid levels. It also treats digestive disorders and food allergies.

It is also prescribed by doctors for the treatment of arthritis, tendinitis, back problems; the after-effects of trauma (sprains, dislocations, fractures), fibromyalgia, algodystrophy and orthopedic surgery; osteoporosis; gout and inflammatory rheumatism.

Vichy’s medically prescribed spa treatments always last three weeks and include drinking the thermal waters, having mud poultices applied, taking thermal steam baths and showers and receiving underwater massages from a physiotherapist. The patient is seen three times by a doctor and has a multidisciplinary team at hand including nutritionists and psychologists.

The modern exterior of a spa

The Vichy Célestins Spa in Vichy. Andrei Antipov/Shutterstock Shutterstock / Andrei Antipov

Where should I go for a spa treatment?

In 2025 while the historical Dômes thermal establishment, with its spectacular Moorish dome, is closed for renovations, the Vichy Célestins Thermal Spa is the only establishment in town that offers Vichy mineral water wellness and beauty treatments. The Callou Thermal Spa, which is where medically-prescribed treatments are given, also offers a five-day mini-cure, no prescription needed.

Can my thermal cure be paid for by my health insurance provider?

If you are a resident of an EU country, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway, Switzerland or the UK and the health insurance system in your country of residence covers thermal cures, then your health insurance provider may cover you on condition that a thermal cure cannot be undertaken in your own country within a reasonable delay given your health. Contact your health insurance provider for personalized instructions.

Is it easy to get to and around Vichy?

Vichy lies 360km (224 miles) south of Paris. Come by train because you really don’t need a car in the town, which fans out from the train station to the Allier river just 1km (0.6 miles) away. Everything is walkable. There are nine trains a day from Paris (average travel time 3½ hours) and 10 a day from Lyon (2 hours), which is 160km (99 miles) southeast of Vichy. The journey from Paris costs €22.50–70 (US$26–80) and from Lyon, €18–35 (US$20–40).

If you’ve come by car, park it in the underground La Poste car park (€8/US$9 for 24 hours).

Large basins with taps in a large room with a glass ceiling

Hall des Sources, where you can taste five of Vichy’s famous waters. Pecold/Shutterstock Pecold / Shutterstock

Top things to do in and around Vichy

Taste the famous Vichy waters at Hall des Sources

First go to the Hall des Sources designed by Lucien Woog and Charles Lecoeur at the northern end of the Parc des Sources where you can freely taste water (or fill your bottle) from five of the nine sources. I’ve tasted all five: Chomel – whose minerals are used to make the famous Vichy-État lozenges – is good for indigestion; Grande Grille, which needs to be drunk in homeopathic doses, can have surprising effects on the digestive system; Hôpital, which is very sulfurous; Célestins, the saltiest of all (actually bicarbonate of soda); and Lucas…well, let’s say I prefer tap water! 

Promenade in Parc des Sources

The 280m-long (918ft) eastern and western edges of the Parc des Sources are both lined with a covered wrought-iron walkway built in 1901–02 by Émile Robert to allow ladies and gentlemen to promenade, protected from sun and rain. Imitate them to reach the southern end of the park where you’ll find the Grand Casino and Opera.

Tour Vichy’s iconic Grand Casino

The Grand Casino is Vichy’s iconic building. Inaugurated on July 2nd, 1865 it was designed by Charles Badger in a classical style, its facade decorated by caryatids representing the four seasons. It had a theater, games rooms, a gentlemen’s reading room, a ladies’ conversation room and a vast ballroom. But it quickly became too small so in 1903 a new art nouveau theater was added, the old one transformed into a huge games room. But after the tragedy of WWII, the casino fell into disrepair until 1988 when the town bought the building to turn it into a conference center. The art deco ornamentation inside has just been renovated so it’s worth booking a tour to see it.

A curved pavilion with a water source to one side

The source of Célestins water is protected in an elegant pavilion. EBASCOL/Shutterstock EBASCOL / Shutterstock

Find the source of Célestins water

A little over 400m (1312ft) south of the casino, (go via the rue Hubert Colombier, once a private road with its extraordinary mix of neo-Flemish, art nouveau and neo-Gothic buildings all built between 1895 and 1905 for short-term rentals), have a look at the Célestins source, now protected behind marble and glass under an elegant, elliptical, 18th-century style pavilion designed by architect Lucien Woog. The water from this source is the one that’s bottled and sold the world over.

See the colors within Notre Dame des Malades

Then walk 100m (328ft) further south to Notre Dame des Malades church (aka Saint Blaise) built between 1925 and 1956. Don’t be put off by the austere reinforced concrete exterior. Inside you’ll find an explosion of colors from the slender lapis lazuli columns to the strong red, blues and greens of the stained glass windows via the shimmering gold of the mosaics.

Turning back north between the park and the river admire the flamboyant early 20th-century homes built for wealthy patrons on the boulevard des États-Unis, the rue de Belgique and the boulevard de Russie.

Interior of a grand opera theater in white, yellow and gold colors

Opéra de Vichy. INTREEGUE Photography/Shutterstock INTREEGUE Photography / Shutterstock

My favorite thing to do in Vichy

I really enjoy visiting the art nouveau Opéra de Vichy, which opened in March 1903 and is the only one in Europe with a yellow, ivory and white color scheme. With seating for 1400 people, it is still today the biggest pre-modern opera house in France outside Paris. I love the two white peacocks painted over the proscenium arch and the jewel-studded heads painted on the ceiling between the arches. I recommend taking a guided tour as this is where you’ll also learn about Vichy’s role in WWII.

How much money do I need to visit Vichy?

You won’t spend much if you’re just visiting the town, but expect to part with considerable sums if you want some wellness and beauty treatments thrown in!

  • Cup of coffee: €2 (US$2.30)
  • Beer: €3.50 (US$4)
  • Three-course meal: €35 (US$40)
  • Night at a hotel: €85–234 per night (US$97–266)
  • Four half-day beauty treatments at the Célestins Spa & Thermal Hotel: €855 (US$973)
  • Detox at Célestins: €930 (US$1058)

There are about 20 hotels in the vicinity of the Parc des Sources to choose from. Top of the range is the Maison Decoret (€234/US$266 a night for two). But perfectly comfortable is Le Patio, which will only set you back €85 (US$97) for two. But for a real 19th-century vibe try the pavilion of Le Chalet Impérial Clermont-Tonnerre (one of those “chalets” mentioned above) for just €95 (US$108).

For something more medieval you can stay for €210 (US$239) in the moat-surrounded Chateau de la Mothe, just a half-hour’s drive west of Vichy.

The choice for food is vast, from the Maison Decoret’s 1-star Michelin restaurant (€135/US$154 or so for dinner) to a three-course meal for as little as €28 (US$32) at the Michelin-recommended Les Caudalies. 

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The 8 best things to do in Hakone, Japan

Spilling inland from the coast southwest of Tokyo, Hakone serves up unreal scenery on all sides. The vermilion torii gate of the Hakone-jinja shrine seems to levitate out of Ashi-no-ko, a scenic lake born of a volcano. In the volcanic Ōwakudani valley, sulfurous steam gushes into the air as you float over its primordial scenery in a cable car. 

History is written large on the landscape, too. Feel time bend as you walk in the footsteps of ancient samurai warriors who wore down the ancient pebble pathways of the Tōkaidō road, then sink into an outdoor onsen (Japanese bath) in Hakone-Yumoto, taking part in centuries-old ceremonies harking back to the heyday of dynastic Japan. 

Life in the Hakone region has long been immortalized in ukiyo-e (woodblock prints), and you’ll still see art everywhere here today, in museums full of Japanese and international art treasures, dotted around the forests of Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park. 

For visitors on a short trip, Hakone is conveniently close to Tokyo, with connections by train taking as little as 1½ hours. Most people prioritize trips to the volcanic vents of Ōwakudani and the red Hakone-jinja gateway on the shores of Ashi-no-ko. If this describes your travel plans, base your trip around the Hakone Ropeway, which runs from the summit of Sōun-zan to Tōgendai, via Ōwakudani.

Whatever draws you to this intriguing corner of Japan, here are the best things to do in Hakone. 

A woman relaxing in an open-air onsen pool in Hakone-Yumoto, Japan.

Relaxing in an open-air onsen pool is the classic Hakone-Yumoto experience. Thom Morris/Getty Images Thom Morris/Getty Images

1. Unwind in the hot springs of Hakone-Yumoto 

The Hakone region is home to scattered villages and small towns such as Hakone-Yumoto, an onsen resort that dates back to the 8th century. Bathing at a spa complex such as Tenzan Tōji-kyō is imbued with prestige, and a soak in the rotemburo (outdoor onsen) will remind you that you are participating in a tradition as old as the ancient trees around you. 

Similarly luxurious Hakone Yuryo provides a memorable rotemburo experience deeper in the forest, with the option of a meal package so you never have to leave this idyllic setting. However, at these more traditional spas, bathing is single sex and nude, and there are restrictions on bathers with tattoos.

If you’re traveling with children, family-friendly Hakone Kowaki-en Yunessun has mixed bathing, so you’ll need a bathing suit. It resembles a water theme park more than a traditional onsen, with water slides, artificial waterfalls and a themed pool where red “wine” pours from a giant wine bottle! Come for laughter, not tranquillity.

Planning tip: Shuttle buses run to major spas from Hakone-Yumoto Station, on the Hakone Tozan Railway line, linking Odawara to Gōra. 

2. Appreciate Japanese art, starting at the Hakone Open-Air Museum 

Hakone is a place where nature is a key part of the artist’s canvas. At Hakone Open-Air Museum near Gōra, you can wander across a verdant hillside dotted with towering sculptures and installations by Henry Moore, Rodin, Miró and other big names. 

If it’s raining, head inside the Picasso Pavilion, home to over 300 works by the legendary Spanish artist. Be sure to ascend Gabriel Loire’s Symphonic Sculpture, a spiral staircase encased in vibrant stained glass that offers breathtaking views of the park and the surrounding mountains.

Next, take a short walk to the Okada Museum of Art, displaying Japanese, Chinese and Korean art collected by industrialist Okada Kazuo. Nearby, in the village of Gōra, you can pop into the Hakone Museum of Art and take part in a matcha tea ceremony, or browse the photos in the Hakone Museum of Photography. 

Take a bus to reach the Pola Museum of Art, an architectural marvel of soft turquoise glass that displays works by Van Gogh, Cézanne, Renoir and Matisse alongside Japanese artists; it’s a few kilometers northeast of Gōra. 

Your last stop should be either the Narukawa Art Museum at the southeast end of Ashi-no-ko, or the Enoura Observatory, a fantastical complex on the coast overlooking Sagami Bay combining seascape vistas, ancient stones, fossils and modern architecture that riffs on traditional Japanese themes.

Mount Fuji, rising above a sightseeing boat on Ashi-no-ko lake in Hakone, Japan.

On a clear day, Ashi-no-ko lake offers one of the definitive views of Mt Fuji. Florian Augustin/Shutterstock Florian Augustin / Shutterstock

3. Soak up volcanic views from the Hakone Ropeway 

To get the best aerial views of the volcanic caldera lake of Ashi-no-ko, the fuming Ōwakudani valley and Mt Fuji (weather permitting), take the Hakone Tozan Cable Car from Gōra to the top of Sōun-zan mountain, then hop on the Hakone Ropeway for stunning vistas over Hakone’s surreal volcanic landscapes. 

Connecting Sōun-zan Station with Tōgendai Station on the shores of Ashi-no-ko, the ropeway ride takes about 30 minutes. At Tōgendai, you can board a galleon-shaped sightseeing boat at Moto-Hakone pier to reach the lake’s best viewing points.

On your way to the lake, you’ll soar above Ōwakudani, Hakone’s “Great Boiling Valley” – created 3000 years ago when the Kami-yama volcano erupted and collapsed. The eruption also formed the lake of Ashi-no-ko, one of Hakone’s most iconic sights.

This stunning cobalt-blue crater lake offers breathtaking views of Mount Fuji from its shores, especially on still days, when the mountain is reflected perfectly in the calm waters. Winter mornings provide the clearest views. 

For the perfect Hakone photo, capture the red torii gate of the Hakone-jinja shrine, which can be viewed from land, or from the water on a boat tour. You can reach the shrine on foot from Moto-Hakone, walking around the edge of the lake.

Planning tip: The volcanically heated waters of the Hakone area are used to boil kuro tamago – literally “black eggs.” The sulphur reacts with the eggshells, turning them black and giving them a distinctive flavor. Some say eating kuro tamago can extend your life by seven years. The black eggs are on sale at tourist stores if you wish to extend your expiration date.

4. Enjoy wagyu and traditional Japanese treats at Hakone’s best restaurants 

If you’re looking for next-level Japanese-style hamburger steaks or premium wagyū beef cooked right in front of you, grab a bite at Kinosuke in Hakone-Yumoto. Another great option in this onsen town is 808 Monsmare, serving authentic wood-fired pizzas with mozzarella, fresh basil and excellent passata; their matcha gelato is a must-try.

For a lakeside meal near the Tōgendai Ropeway station, try Kotei for seafood curry (or spicy spinach and mushroom for vegetarians) on a terrace with lake views. At Amimoto Ooba, you can try crispy tempura wakasagi (whitebait-like fish), caught in Ashi-no-ko and served with matcha salt. 

If you want something more traditional, try the mild katsu curry (pork cutlet with a spicy sauce) or omurice (omelet and fried rice) at the Tōgendai View Restaurant, with elevated views of the lake and its “pirate ship” sightseeing boats. 

Trees flank the ancient stones of the Tokaido Road in Hakone, Japan.

The Tōkaidō road was one of the ancient Five Routes of fuedal Japan. photoNN/Shutterstock photoNN / Shutterstock

5. Follow in the footsteps of shogun and samurai warriors on the Edo Road

To relive the glory days of Hakone, trace the footsteps of the shogun and samurai who journeyed along the Tōkaidō – one of the ancient Five Routes of Edo-period Japan. Its smooth cobbles have been polished by centuries of foot traffic (vehicles with wheels were forbidden by decree). 

The best way to enjoy the serene forest scenery is on the 4km (2.5-mile) hike from Moto-Hakone to Hatajuku, a quaint village that preserves a hint of the feudal era. Take a bus to Hakone-jinja-iriguchi, one stop before Moto-Hakone, then walk up a short road to the wooden sign marking the trail entrance. From here, the hike is mostly downhill and easy to follow, with signs in English. 

At the midway point, you’ll find a teahouse, Amazake-chaya, where you can take a break and sip amazake (sweet rice wine) or green tea. At the hike’s end point, it’s worth exploring the shops selling traditional woodwork, such as Hatajuku Yosegi Kaikan. To return to Hakone-Yumoto, hop on a bus from Hatajuku.

Planning tip: For another easy but rewarding walk in the area, take a stroll around Ashi-no-ko. The Western Bank Trek offers good views of Hakone-jinja, while the Eastern Bank Trek takes in stunning Mt Fuji views from Onshi Hakone Kōen.

6. Savor coffee or cocktails with a scenic view 

Early starts are rewarded in Hakone. Start a morning in Gōra with a pick-me-up at Coffee Camp, where English-speaking baristas brew single-origin coffee and affogato in a hip, polished-concrete space. 

After a day of forest and museum exploring, pause for afternoon tea, apple pie and French toast while you take in stunning Ashi-no-ko views from the terrace at Salon de thé Rosage, close to Hakone-jinja. Wrap up your evening at the Indigo Hotel’s Riverside Kitchen & Bar over whisky, gin and cocktails beside the Haya River.

Planning tip: It is considered rude in Japan to drink or eat while walking or on public transport, and this also applies to takeaway coffee. Do as locals do and settle in to enjoy your breakfast cup before you set off to explore. 

The Hakone Ropeway climbs above the steam vents of the volcanic Owakudani valley in Hakone, Japan.

Ride the Hakone Ropeway for epic views over the volcanic vents at Ōwakudani. Zen S Prarom/Shutterstock Zen S Prarom / Shutterstock

7. Make the most of the Hakone Free Pass

If you’re looking for a budget-friendly way to explore the Hakone region, the Hakone Free Pass is a fantastic choice. This popular travel pass gives you unlimited access to all the Odakyu-affiliated buses, trains, boats, cable cars and ropeways in the Hakone area, plus discounts on select tourist attractions over two or three consecutive days.

Pass-holders get round-trip travel on the Odakyu Line from Tokyo, as well as unlimited use of eight different modes of transportation, including the scenic, mountain-climbing Hakone Tozan Railway, the Hakone Tozan Cable Car, and the Hakone Ropeway. 

The pass also includes sightseeing cruises on Ashi-no-ko lake, plus free travel on the Kanko Shisetsu-Meguri Bus that connects popular spots to visit in the region.

Planning tip: If you’re planning sightseeing around the Hakone Pass, the package includes discounted entry to attractions such as the Hakone Yuryo and Hakone Kowaki-en Yunessun onsens, Hakone Gōra Park and the Hakone Open-Air Museum.

8. Stay in a Hakone spa hotel

Being an onsen town, Hakone-Yuomoto has plenty of lodging options that include an on-site spa. Fukuzumirō is a traditional ryokan inn from 1890, serving seasonal meals that you can enjoy in your room and shared stone and pine onsen baths. 

If you prefer a gender-separated onsen experience, book a stay at Yoshiike Ryokan, a seven-minute walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station, which offers spacious rooms with single-sex outdoor onsen baths amid lush Japanese gardens. 

For an inexpensive, old-style Japanese experience, K’s House Hakone offers futon dorms, capsules, bunks and neat tatami-style doubles, plus both indoor and outdoor onsen pools. For a luxe stay, head to Hoshino Resorts Kai Hakone, a minimalist hotel offering partly outdoor infinity-style onsen pools, English-speaking staff and exceptional kaiseki (multi-course Japanese meals).

This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Japan guidebook, published in March 2024.

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6 places to get away for Memorial Day Weekend

Memorial Day Weekend sneaks up on you, but it’s not too late to plan a fabulous last-minute trip. If you’ve waited until now to start thinking about travel plans, three of our editors have shared their top recommendations for the destinations across the US that they’re dreaming about this Memorial Day Weekend. Or you can save this list for the next long weekend – because it’ll sneak up on you, too.

A sailing boat in a pretty harbor

Newport Beach Harbor, California. Visit Newport Beach © Visit Newport Beach

1. Newport Beach, California

Ann Douglas Lott, Associate Editor

Vibes: Somehow, Orange County feels both posh and laid-back. In Newport Beach, you could spend the morning luxury shopping, sunning yourself by the pool or going for a spa treatment, and in the afternoon, you could be cycling around Balboa Island or exploring the coastal Crystal Cove State Park. And it’s easy to get to – fly into SNA, and you’ll be within 20 minutes of wherever you’re staying.

Do: Go whale and dolphin-watching on a Zodiac boat. It’s a thrill of a ride, and you’re almost on the same level as the animals; it feels like you’re nearly swimming alongside them. If a slow cruise is more your vibe, hop on a Duffy boat tour of the harbor with prosecco and charcuterie (I call it an HGTV cruise because look at those mansions!). They’ll even drop you off at your dinner reservation.

Eat: For breakfast, have the breakfast burrito from Malibu Farm or the coconut-macadamia pancakes from Beachcomber Café. For everything else, seafood – like the creamy ravioli bianco with shrimp at JOEY and gumbo at the waterfront Bluewater Grill. For dessert, have frozen bananas on Balboa Island, either from Sugar ‘n Spice or Dad’s Donut Shop & Bakery.

Stay: Book a room at Pendry Newport Beach. The rooms are spacious, there’s a fabulous pool deck for tanning, and the restaurant and bar are places to see and be seen. And it’s not a far drive from the harbor and beach. Or, if you want to test your luck, try to snag one of the charming beachfront cottages at Crystal Cove State Park.

People ride bikes down a street lined with wood-fronted traditional stores

The quiet streets of Nantucket. Atlantide Phototravel/Getty Images © Atlantide Phototravel / Getty Images

2. Nantucket, Massachusetts

Brekke Fletcher, Senior Director of Content

Vibes: Preppy, nautical, coastal chic. Cobblestone streets and charming historic homes. Lots of striped shirts, boat shoes, sun hats. Long beach walks and plenty of bike paths.

Do: Rent a bike (or better yet, stay at accommodation that offers them as an amenity) to explore the island. Visit Sconset to do the Bluff Walk (it can get crowded in high season, so go early if you want to beat the crowds). The footpath brings you in close contact with incredibly dreamy shingled beach houses, some of which have been there since the 1800s. Visit Cisco Brewery for craft beers, live music, outdoor games and food trucks. Shop for vintage dresses (and wine) at Current Vintage. Learn all about Nantucket’s history at the Whaling Museum.

Eat: Eat seafood whenever you can. Make your way to Lemon Press for smoothies and bowls. A fun lunch outing is Topper’s at the Wauwinet – there is a boat that you can take there from the downtown boat basin ($25 per person). It harvests its own oysters just outside and makes a darn fine lobster roll. Dinner options abound, but I love the food and interiors at Via Mare – order the Boulevardier cocktail with baccala (salt cod) and kale salad.

Stay: The Cottages at Nantucket Boat Basin dockside accommodations offer incredible views of the harbor, free bikes and kitchens so you can make your own meals and morning coffee. They feel truly home-like but with the bonus of incredible service.

A group of friends explore the west arm of a bay on stand-up paddleboards

Paddleboarders on Grand Traverse Bay. Pure Michigan Michigan Economic Development Corporation

3. Traverse City, Michigan

Sarah Stocking, Editor

Vibes: Stylish but not stuffy, relaxed yet action-packed, Traverse gives pretty-as-a-picture beach town vibes like Taylor Swift gives a love song: catchy, on-the-nose and inarguably delightful.

Do: Get on the water. Rent a kayak and spend the day taking in the phenomenal views of the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lake Shore. After you’ve spent the day poking into the boutiques on Main Street or kayaking through the crystal clear water, find a spot on the beach to watch the sunset. Bring a cocktail and linger long after the sun has put on its evening show because watching all those stars fill up the sky as you dig your toes in the sand is a special kind of peace.

Eat: Make a reservation at Modern Bird. This area of Michigan is surrounded by small, independent farms, and Modern Bird sources its ingredients locally. The ever-changing menu is as elegant as it is homey, the perfect pairing for a weekend in Traverse City.

Stay: Look for waterfront accommodations as much as you can. I like the Bay Shore Resort. The Victorian vibes feel on-brand for this area of the country, and there is nothing like waking up with the beach steps from your door.

Waterfront dining on a covered terrace

Dining on the Crystal Coast. Crystal Coast Crystal Coast

4. Crystal Coast (Southern Outer Banks), North Carolina

Ann Douglas Lott

Vibes: The lesser-visited Outer Banks (but no less deserving of a trip) is home to over 85 miles of gorgeous coastline. The beaches are uncrowded, and opportunities for outdoor adventure are everywhere, as is a healthy dose of small-town charm.

Do: Spend a day on the white-sand beaches of Emerald Isle or Atlantic Beach. Also, go on a guided jet skiing tour, hike through dune fields and salt marshes in Fort Macon State Park, kayak to Rachel Carson Reserve (keeping an eye out for wild horses) or visit the lighthouse and walk down the beach on Cape Lookout National Seashore.

Eat: Eating here is very “dock-to-dish,” meaning you’re supporting local fishers and farmers. In Beaufort, go to City Kitchen for the seafood and waterfront views. In Morehead City, go to Circa 81 for Spanish tapas, or sample locally sourced caviar (with fresh chives, dill, crème fresh, pringles – all the fixin’s!) at Prime Bistro and Wine Bar.

Stay: If you’re not the Airbnb type, the Beaufort Hotel overlooks Taylor Creek and feels very coastal North Carolina, with on-property bike and golf cart rentals and a pool. Or check out the Pecan Tree Inn, a Victorian-style B&B with locally sourced breakfast and afternoon snacks (like homemade maple butter pecan cookies).

Ancient adobe dwellings

Taos Pueblo. Shutterstock Shutterstock /

5. Taos, New Mexico

Sarah Stocking

Vibes: Bohemian artist colony meets deep history in a spectacular natural setting. It’s a magical spot, even in the Land of Enchantment.

Do: Visit the Taos Pueblo, one of the oldest continuously inhabited communities in the US. Take a guided tour to learn about the art and architecture of the Pueblo people and how they maintain their way of life.

Eat: Housed in a 19th-century chapel, the Love Apple is romantic, candlelit and oh-so-stylish. It serves New Mexican cuisine inspired by local growers, and the menu changes seasonally.

Stay: If you’d like to stay in town, La Dona Luz Inn has nine joyfully decorated rooms that embrace the feel of Old Taos. If you’re looking for a luxury getaway, check out El Monte Sagrado. Relaxing in the serene rooms nestled among the gorgeous Sangre De Cristo mountains is the perfect way to spend a long weekend. Pair your stay with a spa treatment, and you’ll be forever refreshed.

Tourists walking around an amusement park with a large Ferris wheel

Dollywood, Pigeon Forge, Tennessee. Danisley Martinez/Shutterstock Shutterstock / Danisley Martinez

6. Dollywood, Pigeon Forge, Tennessee

Ann Douglas Lott

Vibes: Whether you’re devoted to Dolly, theme parks or are looking for something to do near Smoky Mountain towns like Gatlinburg or Pigeon Forge, Dollywood fits the bill for a long weekend excursion. Thrilling, family-friendly and a real charmer – just like Dolly – it’s America’s most legendary theme park. The food rocks, the staff are friendly and helpful, it’s clean, and there’s plenty to do when you need a break from the park’s rides (which are pure magic).

Do: In the past two years, the park has opened two brand-new attractions to look out for: Big Bear Mountain, the park’s longest roller coaster to date, and the Dolly Parton Experience, an interactive museum that invites guests to follow along with Dolly’s life story. I’m also a big fan of Lightning Rod (for big drop lovers) and Mystery Mine. If you have an extra day or want to explore the region beyond the park, check out the Titanic Museum in Pigeon Forge, a gigantic replica of the famed ship where passengers can follow the timeline of its sinking. Or drive to Gatlinburg for a moonshine or cider tasting amidst the mountain town’s kitschy goodness.

Eat: Theme park food’s bad rap is forgotten at Dollywood. One bite that’s especially worth waiting in line for is the famous pull-apart cinnamon bread at the Grist Mill (don’t worry, the line moves quickly). Also, a trip to the region is not complete without pancakes (or flapjacks), and while it’s hard to mess up a flapjack, I don’t think you’ll find fluffier ones than those from Crockett’s Breakfast Camp in Gatlinburg.

Stay: Make it easy for yourself and stay on the park’s property at one of the two gorgeous resorts, which provide trolleys to and from the park and its neighboring waterpark. If you plan to explore the area further over the course of the weekend, book a cozy cabin on Airbnb – wrap-around porches and hot tubs are the norm around here.

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Where to find the world’s most gorgeous lavender fields

You don’t have to know that lavender is a part of the Lamiaceae family, from the Lavandula genus, or that it’s a close relative to mint, to appreciate the flowering perennial’s gorgeous, stately appearance and its incredibly fragrant aroma. Because lavender’s small, tube-shaped flowers attract bees and butterflies, you’ll see more than just the purple-blue plants when visiting a lavender farm.

Long, slender stems bloom all over the world. They grow up to 3ft tall and display purple, blue, white and sometimes even pink flowers. Fun fact: Lavender is often associated with a calm, soothing energy. There’s a reason so many people keep a little spray by their bedside: A 2022 study found that lavender essential oil improved sleep quality before insomnia occurred.

Many lavender farms sell lavender sprays, satchels and essential lavender oil, so stock up on the good stuff when you embark on your journey. 

And if it sounds like a stretch to call it a journey, consider this: Lavender often blooms in big, open fields. This can mean miles and miles of lavender, its peaceful hues providing a certain kind of sweet and calming element that may be especially appealing to busy travelers always on the go. You’ve been told to stop and smell the roses, and you probably know all about cherry blossom season. Now, with this list, shower lavender with some love and attention, too.

A greenish yellow moth flies over a close up photograph of purple lavender blooms

Lordington Lavender near Chichester in West Sussex. James Mortimer/Shutterstock James Mortimore / Shutterstock

Lordington Lavender in Chichester, West Sussex

Visiting the countryside in the UK in the summer is downright blissful. At this lovely farm in West Sussex,  watch the sunset over the lavender fields in all their full and mighty bloom, and enjoy live music and other events amid the blossoms.

When is the bloom: July is peak season for the bloom

Where to eat: In nearby East Ashling, a small hamlet close to the lavender fields, the Horse & Groom welcomes travelers looking for a hearty meal of pub fare like a scotch egg followed by a steak sandwich after a day or evening taking in the pretty lavender landscapes.

Where to stay: Next to the farm is Lordington Park, a boutique bed and breakfast providing charming cottage stays. Meet other visitors in the tearoom, where you’ll find stronger libations and snacks. 

Make it happen: Take a 90-minute train ride from London’s Victoria station to Chichester, and catch a bus (number 54) that stops at Lordington. It’s 2 hours by car from London.

rows of purple lavender lead the eye to an old stone L-shaped building with arched windows and green bush covered hills on either side.

The Abbey of Senanque in Provence. StevanZZ/Shutterstock StevanZZ / Shutterstock

Abbaye de Sénanque in Provence

Provence is probably one of the best-known places on the planet to see blooming lavender, and it’s hard to beat the picturesque Abbaye de Sénanque, where monks have long cultivated the glorious plant. It’s one thing to observe acres of purple and blue flowers (and hard to find any criticism in this postcard-like setting), but it’s an altogether different experience to see the thriving flowering plants set against a historic stone monastery. 

And for true lavender geeks, a short drive to Cabrières-d’Avignon leads to the Lavender Museum, where you can learn about the plant’s heritage and production, as well as its uses in cosmetics, essential oils and local crafts. 

When is the bloom: Mid-June, with the fields at their peak in the first weeks of July and then harvested in August

Where to eat: Make a reservation at Restaurant I’Alambic, a traditional French restaurant with a terrace on the banks of the Sorgue River. Order the côte de boeuf, and perhaps a Kir Royale.

Where to stay: Cool off in the pool when you book a stay at Residence Provence Country Club, which also has tennis courts and easy access to walking trails. There’s an on-site restaurant, too, along with plenty of other options within walking distance. 

Make it happen: Fly into Marseille-Provence airport, which has regular flights to and from London, Manchester and Edinburgh, or stop in Paris first before making your way to lavender country.

Selah Ridge Lavender Farm in Selah, WA

Located in the stunning Yakima Valley, one of the top places in the state of Washington to catch the lavender blooms, Selah Ridge Lavender Farm’s hillside location sets the stage for the purplish hues to shine. Its location – an agricultural mecca with excellent wines, craft breweries, and bright, flavorful seasonal produce – makes a trip to this destination all the more appealing. 

At the farm, get lost meandering the lavender fields and maybe even pick up a piece of knowledge or two, like how lavender is processed and turned into soaps and aromatic oils. Time your visit right, and you might get to join a workshop on lavender crafting and distillation. Selah Ridge’s lavender festival takes place every July.

When is the bloom: Starting late June with full bloom occurring by mid-July

Where to eat: Crafted Yakima is all about the farm-to-table approach to cooking (daily menu changes are possible based on what’s available and in season). Vegetables, in particular, get the royal treatment: Parsnips, for example, might be dressed with mole, matcha seca, peanuts and pepitas, and sprinkled with queso fresco.

Where to stay: Bunk up at The Hotel Maison, a boutique hotel that originally opened in 1911 and is now part of Hilton’s Tapestry Collection. Close to shops and restaurants, the hotel also provides easy access to hiking and cycling trails, and, of course, the lavender is not far away.

Make it happen: If you don’t want to rent a car after arriving in Seattle-Tacoma International Airport (the most popular option), take the SeaTac Airport to Yakima shuttle. 

Tufts of green lavender plants in front of a red farm house surrounded by green bushy trees and mountains in the background

Pine Creek Canyon Lavender Farm in Pine, Arizona. Courtesy of Pine Creek Canyon Lavender Farm Courtesy of Pine Creek Lavender Farm

Pine Creek Canyon Lavender Farm in Pine, Arizona

If you thought Arizona was all just a big dry desert, lacking colorful landscaping, you ought to visit Pine in the Northern part of the state. Pine Creek Canyon Lavender Farm has been around since the early 1900s and was taken over in 2015 by Terry Gorton and Rick Vesci (their two dogs help oversee the farm now). The couple planted 5000 lavender plants as a way to ward off hungry elk, and it worked! Leisurely walking around the farm to admire the robust flowering plants is, of course, highly encouraged.

Because the two lavender varieties harvested on the farm – Royal Velvet and Provence – are used in cooking, visitors can cook with lavender in a restored farmhouse kitchen. 

When is the bloom: Mid-June through September

Where to eat: The Early Bird Cafe is just what it sounds like: A breakfast spot that opens early. Expect comfort food favorites like buttery pancakes swimming in syrup and flaky biscuits covered in gravy.

Where to stay: For a boutique mountain getaway, The Strawberry Inn is just as delightful as its name. Choose from a room at the inn, or stay in an airstream or cabin for deeper immersion in nature – everyone is welcome to hang out in the community yard space. 

Make it happen: If traveling from Phoenix, the drive is just more than 2 hours by car, and is a pretty drive, so take your time. The lavender will be there!

Lavender field in bloom stretches toward rolling green hills with the sun setting in the back ground.

Lavender field in Sale San Giovanni, Langhe, Cuneo, Italy. Framarzo/Shutterstock Framarzo / Shutterstock

Fioritura della Lavanda in Turin, Italy

Often called the “Provence of Italy,” this region bursts into bold shades of purple in the summer. Many travel here to see the blooms, skipping France’s fields entirely. Itay’s Piedmont region, of which Turin is the capital, known for its big, bold red wines (looking at you, Barolo), and rich foods like agnolotti and polenta, is a worthy stop on the Italy trail. The sleepy hamlet of Sale San Giovanni, with its nearly 100 acres of rich lavender fields, is an excellent place to stop and smell the lavender. Sense the sweet, floral scent on relaxing walks amid the fields, and as for pictures: Simply dreamy. 

When is the bloom: Between mid-June and mid-July

Where to eat: Find the traditional meat-filled agnolotti (similar to ravioli) pasta at Consorzio, a no-frills space dishing up traditional Piedmontese food.

Where to stay: For a luxurious stay near the fields of Sale San Giovanni, check out the luxurious Principi di Piemonte UNA Esperienze in Turin. Set in a historic building, its architecture is a sight to behold, but it’s got substance too: world-class spa with Tunisian-style Turkish bath and Finnish sauna, and fine dining restaurant The Ristorante Casa Savoia by “UNA cucina.”

Make it happen: Many travelers make their way to Piedmont from Milan via train or bus. Once in town, access the lavender fields by foot. The entire route through the crops spans a little over four miles; it’s about a two-and-a-half-hour walk with some incline. 

close up photograph of a honey bee hovering on a lavender blooming with purple blooms

Lavender Bee Farm in Sonoma County, California. Jessica Ruscello/Shutterstock Jessica Ruscello / Shutterstock

Lavender Bee Farm in Sonoma County

You’ll get to ooh and ahh at plenty of pretty, purple lavender (English, Provence, and Grosso) at this locally owned farm, but you’ll get to see (and taste) a lot more, too. This family honey farm has more than 5000 lavender plants and multiple bee hives that produce pure, raw lavender honey (the farm is chemical-free, by the way), and the owners are all too happy to dispense some of their knowledge on curious visitors.

When is the bloom: Mid-May to early August, with peak bloom in early to mid-June

Where to eat: You don’t need to go far for a great meal in town, thanks to the on-site oyster bar and restaurant The Shuckery. Seafood is sustainable and local, ranging from ceviche to fried oysters. 

Where to stay: Hotel Petaluma is more than 100 years old and an ideal base for visits to the bee farm. A stay here, in downtown Petaluma, means great access not only to the flowers but to wineries, shops and art galleries.

Make it happen: There are direct flights into Santa Rosa (Charles M. Schulz–Sonoma County Airport) from many cities in the US. If you don’t mind a 90-minute drive, fly to San Francisco and drive from there, as there are more flight options. 

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8 places in Thailand not to miss

The glorious variety of Thailand appeals to all types of travelers. 

Flavor-loving gourmets will love the street food, produce-laden markets and deluxe restaurants all over the country. Those seeking enlightenment can find wisdom and inspiration at its thousands of temples and monasteries. Outdoors enthusiasts can set out on a hike, exploring virgin forests and lush mountains.

And you might have heard the country has some of the best beaches in the world.

Whether it’s your first time to Thailand or your twentieth, there’s always something new do discover. Here are eight places you’ll want to add to your list. 

A boat with lights on its windows passes a tall stupa by a river. The scene is bathed with pink and orange sunset light.

A boat passes Wat Arun just after sunset in Bangkok, Thailand. Pakin Songmor/Getty Images ©Pakin Songmor/Getty Images

1. Bangkok

Best city for food and nightlife

Many travelers to Thailand don’t get beyond the Bangkok airport. Yet this underrated city is a fabulous place to stay for a couple of days (at least!) for a thrilling introduction to Thailand.

With a little planning, this 10-million-strong megacity is surprisingly accessible.  Its hundreds of thousands of restaurants and street-food vendors serve up everything from pizza to Ethiopian fare to (naturally) fiery curries and satays. Night markets, deluxe shopping centers, glittering palaces, temples and charming neighborhoods offer endless urban delights.

And ample transport links make Bangkok a great launching pad for day trips to the surrounding region, with floating markets and beaches to the south and popular national parks to the north.

Planning tip: Despite its go-go reputation, Bangkok has rules that prevent bars and clubs from staying open all night – in fact, most close at the relatively early hour of 1am.

A train moves down a track surrounded by vendors and merchants, whose stalls and products almost touch the train. People lean out to take photos of the oncoming train.

Maeklong Railway Market, Samut Songkhram, Thailand. Vespa_Foto/Shutterstock Vespa_Foto / Shutterstock

2. The Upper Gulf

Best for floating markets

Only an hour or so from Bangkok, you’ll find Thailand’s most famous floating markets, including Damnoen Saduak (at its busiest in the early morning) and Amphawa (more popular with locals and with a more nightlife-y vibe).

On land, the Maeklong Railway Market is also a treat: six times each day, its many vendors pull up part of their stalls to allow a train to (slowly) pass. In the sprawing green space of Bang Kachao, you can rent a bicycle to pedal through the wilderness on concrete passageways, passing over canals hiding monitor lizards and reaching the island’s own floating market, Talat Nam Bang Nam Phueng. You can even take a day trip from Bangkok to the beach for sea breezes and fresh seafood: Pattaya is only two hours away.

Many tourists are walking along the street at Lard Yai, Phuket weekend market, in Phuket old town area, Thailand.

The Lard Yai weekend market in Phuket’s Old Town. Nirad/Getty Images Getty Images

3. Phuket

Best for a blend of cultures

The biggest island in Thailand, Phuket brings together a mix of Hokkien Chinese and Malaysian elements to produce a culture entierly different from the rest of the country. Hokkien-style fried noodles, o-aew (a jelly made from plant seeds), o-tao (an oyster omelet topped with pork rinds) and moo hong (braised pork belly stew) are all delicious dishes that originated in Phuket – and they’re hard to find even elsewhere in Thailand.

Phuket’s architecture testifies to the era when it was under Portuguese rule, and Sino-Portuguese shophouses – with their distinctive colors, tiles and details – still line the streets of the Old Town. Add in top-tier beaches, and you can easily spend a week enjoying all Phuket has to offer.

Planning tip: September to October is Phuket’s rainy season – a time to avoid visiting the island.

Two people on bicycles pedal past the gold stupa of a temple. Numerous yellow flags hanging from strings flutter overhead.

Bicycling in Chiang Mai, Thailand. Pongmanat Tasiri/Shutterstock Pongmanat Tasiri / Shutterstock

4. Chiang Mai

Best for temples

Chiang Mai is a great base from which to explore the surrounding mountains, caves and waterfalls – and merits at least three days of your trip. The region surrounding this former imperial capital is packed with temples: Doi Suthep is famous for its stunning viewpoints, while Wat Suan Dok serves as the final resting place for Chiang Mai’s former royal family. The charmingly weatherbeaten Wat Chedi Luang, founded over 600 years ago, is right in the center of town; Wat Phra Singh, home of the Lion Buddha, has golden stupas that dazzle in the sunlight.

After you’ve visited these memorable temples, you can feast on Northern Thai cuisine, which draws influences from China and Myanmar; listen for the regional dialect (called kum mueang); and enjoy regional dance styles. Chiang Mai’s many outdoor markets, such as Talat Warorot and Talat Jing Jai, sell food, clothing and knickknacks that make perfect souvenirs.

Planning tip: From late February to early April, Chiang Mai is usually choked with smoke from farmers burning land in the mountains to plant their crops. Opt for the Thai “winter” of November to January, or the rainy season.

White-handed gibbon jumping in the forest of the Khao Yai National Park

A white-handed gibbon jumps in the forest of the Khao Yai National Park. Kuntalee Rangnoi/Getty Images ©Kuntalee Rangnoi/Getty Images

5. Khao Yai National Park

Best for wildlife

A 2½-hour drive from Bangkok, Khao Yai has been a popular weekend retreat for nature-loving Thais for decades. As a result, the area around the national park – Thailand’s third-largest – has many amenities, including houses, hotels, restaurants, shops and even amusement parks. Not surprisingly, it’s an ideal place to bring the whole family.

The top attraction, of course, is the 2166-sq-km (836-sq-mile) national park itself, which is blessed with a wealth of hiking trails for all levels; cooling waterfalls; and an impressive range of wildlife, including monkeys, bears, elephants and elusive leopards. You can hire a park ranger to maximize your chances of an animal sighting, or for help in choosing the best viewpoints or waterfalls.

Planning tip: You should hire a guide ahead of time if you are going wildlife spotting – ideally an official ranger, via the park’s website.

A young monk in a saffron robe lights a candle at the base of a Buddha statue in a temple.

A young monk in a temple in Ayutthaya, Thailand. Pakin Songmor/Getty Images ©Pakin Songmor/Getty Images

6. Ayutthaya and Sukhothai

Best for history buffs

The historic city of Ayutthaya served as Siam’s capital from the 14th to 18th centuries, before it was ransacked by the Burmese. The site of the old city has since been established as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and is ideal for exploring. Bike rentals on the edge of the historical park turn Ayutthaya into an even easier place to navigate, making for a pleasant morning of culture and exercise under a canopy of green leaves.

Sukhothai, Siam’s first capital, was built on a smaller scale and also allows bike rentals, making it an ideal hands-on history lesson for families with smaller children. Also a World Heritage Site, Sukhothai’s towers and Buddha statues are less visited than its younger sister down south, making it preferable for those who dislike large crowds.

Planning tip: Ayutthaya can be accessed by river boat, which takes up to an hour from Bangkok (which is less time than driving). Get to Sukhothai by plane, train, bus or car.

Three young Asian elephants play with each other as they get sprayed with water in a sanctuary in a jungle setting.

Young elephants at Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp, Chiang Rai, Thailand. Steve Cukrov/Shutterstock Steve Cukrov / Shutterstock

7. The far north

Best for hiking

Known as the Golden Triangle, the apex of Thailand’s far north – where Thailand, Laos and Myanmar meet – has served as a destination for die-hard nature lovers for decades. Whether by motorcycle, mountain bike or your own two feet, exploring this area yields remarkable scenes of natural beauty. Once associated with the opium trade, the Golden Triangle is today where visitors come to cruise along the Mekong against a spectacular background, camp in moderate (for Thailand) weather or visit an elephant camp. (Or all three.)

Sleepy yet graceful Chiang Rai is only 9km (6 miles) south of the Golden Triangle, making it an ideal base for exploring the surrounding area. This city has its own attractions, too – notably the weird, wonderful and picture-perfect Wat Rong Khun (White Temple).

Planning tip: It’s a 1½-hour trip from Chiang Rai to the Golden Triangle. Aside from renting a car, you can hire a taxi or take a bus.

A dozen or so red and yellow kayaks are pictured in the turquoise waters off a tropical island. Boats and small, hilly islands are visible in the distance.

Sea kayaking off Ko Samui, Thailand. Sergii Figurnyi/Shutterstock Sergii Figurnyi / Shutterstock

8. Ko Samui

Best for water sports

Ko Samui is the fantasy of a tropical island, all hilly coves and white-sand beaches and turquoise waters. (TV writers love it, too.) Besides its many charming beaches, Samui also hosts Ang Thong National Park, an archipelago of islands perfect for snorkeling and sea kayaking; the Na Muang waterfalls, for casual swimming; snorkeler favorite Silver Beach; and countless spots for scuba diving. On-land attractions are also abundant, including fishing villages, golf courses and a surprising number of wellness retreats.

Planning tip: Samui has a surprisingly long “dry” season, from December to August, when chances of rain are minimal.

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8 things you need to know before traveling to Tokyo

Neon lights and ancient temples. Tranquil gardens and hedonistic nightlife. World-class dining and incredible hospitality. Visiting Tokyo – a veritable cultural powerhouse – is an unforgettable experience.

I’ve lived here for 20 years and still can’t imagine being bored by the Japanese capital. Yet although the city often appears on lists of the safest and best destinations in the world, a trip here can present challenges.

How long to stay? What to wear? What about earthquakes? Will you encounter discrimination? Are there any tips to make travel easier?

To answer those questions and more, here are some of the essential things you should know before heading to Tokyo.

1. Prep your drugstore essentials

You can buy almost anything in Tokyo, but it often won’t be the same brand you have at home and the packaging is unlikely to be printed in English.

Rather than going on a wild goose chase here, it’s a lot easier to bring baby products, over-the-counter medications, prescription drugs and any other essentials from home.

Just double check that your meds are legal in Japan. Anything containing Adderall, for example, isn’t. There are also limits on the amount of medications you can bring. The US Embassy in Japan has a useful page detailing what medications are and aren’t permitted.

Tourists asking for directions and looking at their phones in Tokyo

Use your smartphone to stay safe and savvy in Tokyo. monzenmachi/Getty Images © monzenmachi / Getty Images

2. Download some essential apps before you arrive

For getting around Tokyo on public transport download Japan Travel by Navitime. It has a travel route planning function, plus info on weather forecasts, renting cars and exchanging currency.

For peace of mind, Safety Tips is another handy, free app. It sends emergency alerts and has info on everything you need to know in the event of a quake, typhoon or tsunami, as well as how to find an English-speaking doctor. A translation app such as DeepL could also be handy.

3. Stay at least a week

You can have a great 48 hours, but scheduling a week means you can slow down for a more immersive experience and add side trips.

From big-ticket sights to hands-on experiences, there’s no shortage of things to do in Tokyo before heading off on day trips to the historic temples and shrines of Kamakura, the World Heritage sites of Nikkō or the trails of Mt. Takao.

Girls in Tokyo

Almost anything goes in Japanese fashion © Anthony Plummer / Lonely Planet ©Anthony Plummer/Lonely Planet

4. Fashion-wise almost anything goes, but check the forecast

At the risk of sounding boring, knowing what to wear in Tokyo is often more about being sensible than following fashion – pack for the weather.

The summer heat and humidity are especially draining, and you’ll see lots of locals in hats, shorts and T-shirts, though it’s very uncommon to see anyone showing much skin on their upper body.

In the pre-summer rainy season, an umbrella is better than a rain jacket, as the humidity can turn even Gore-Tex into a sauna suit.

In terms of fashion, outside of a work environment, anything goes in Tokyo – just look at the vibrant fashions of Harajuku or the cosplayers of Akihabara. That said, there are some exceptions you might encounter. If you are going to a high-end restaurant, dress smartly.

If you’re eating sushi, don’t wear any perfume or cologne as that can interfere with the subtle flavors and is considered bad manners.

If you are going for a tea ceremony, make sure you are wearing something loose enough for kneeling on the tatami, then slip off any rings or bracelets just beforehand to avoid damaging the teacups.

5. Understand the rules around drink and drug use

Let’s start with the good news. If you like beer in the park, drinking outside is legal – as long as you are at least 20 years old (the legal age for drinking and buying alcohol).

Just be aware of manners when doing it: Don’t make too much noise and always clean up after yourself.

Recreational drugs, however, are a different matter. Japan has a zero-tolerance policy on marijuana and other drugs. One exception is CBD (cannabidiol) products, which are trendy right now. However, they legally cannot contain any THC (tetrahydrocannabinol) in Japan, the component that gives marijuana its high.

6. Beware the sex trade and touts

For a country that is in many ways very conservative, it can be a surprise to see how public sex work is in Tokyo. It comes in many forms, from hostess and host clubs where clients go to drink and flirt (and spend a fortune) to bathhouse brothels called soaplands.

Pornography is censored to a degree (with genitalia blurred out), but soft porn is still on display at child height in many stores, and animated versions often cover distressing fantasies. Sex work also has strong ties to the yakuza, Japan’s organized crime groups.

Although you can safely walk past “adult” venues in red-light areas like Shinjuku’s Kabukicho (also home to lots of regular bars and restaurants), avoid going in any bar or club with touts outside offering female company or anything that seems too good to be true.

In addition to the exploitation of the people working in these places, you could easily end up with a spiked drink, cloned credit cards or an exorbitant bill.

Two women walking across the Shibuya crossing together in Tokyo

Tremors are a fact of life in Tokyo and the locals take it in their stride. Getty Images © CandyRetriever / Getty Images

7. Be ready to wobble

With close to 2000 feelable tremors in Japan annually, the locals are used to quakes. Thankfully, around 90% of structures in Tokyo are earthquake resistant, including everything built after stricter laws were enacted in 1982.

You also might encounter a typhoon or two, if visiting between May and October. The south and west of Japan typically bear the worst of the typhoons as they initially hit land, with Tokyo often receiving the less powerful death throes.

Still, typhoons are disruptive. Expect public transport to be badly affected for a day and businesses and attractions to close. Do as locals do and wait it out inside. With any natural disaster, keep up to date by turning on public broadcaster NHK or checking the Safety Tips app.

8. Unfortunately discrimination isn’t unheard of

Japan tends to both accept and discriminate quietly. As a traveler, it’s unlikely you will be turned away from a bar or restaurant for being foreign unless it’s in a red-light area, but it can happen, especially if you are a gaijin (foreigner) from Southeast Asia or Africa.

There are no laws against same-sex relationships and, with Shinjuku-nichome, Tokyo has one of the largest and most vibrant LGBTIQ+ districts in Asia.

There’s also an annual Tokyo Pride festival. Japan is still lagging, however, in gender equality, ranking 118 out of 146 countries on the World Economic Forum’s Gender Gap Report.

Trains and subways have women-only carriages in the morning rush hour – something that highlights how common sexual harassment and abuse toward women is.

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Off to Kyrgyzstan? We have 17 tips for you

It doesn’t border Afghanistan. It isn’t part of Russia (or in Russia’s “backyard”). And it definitely is not in Iraq (that’s Kurdistan).

These are all questions I’ve gotten numerous times from well-meaning but poorly informed friends, family members and strangers in the nearly 13 years I’ve been based in Kyrgyzstan. While the country and region are slowly gaining popularity among international travelers, there are still plenty of misconceptions about this alluring Central Asian place. 

From planning a trip to arriving in the country and social mores to be aware of while you’re traveling around, these are the things I wish I’d known the first time I travelled to Kyrgyzstan.

Women in traditional hats and headscarves sit on a carpet and sell other woven products at a festival market.

Women sell traditional handicrafts at a festival in Kyrgyzstan. Svetlana-NLF/Shutterstock Svetlana-NLF / Shutterstock

1. Kyrgyzstan is not just a summer or adventure destination

Popular perception holds that tourism in Kyrgyzstan is all about horse trekking and hiking through big mountains. And while these activities do indeed draw most visitors, they are certainly not the only things to do here. Adventure travelers can expect plenty of hiking in spring and fall, with pastures full of wildflowers in the former and changing autumnal leaves in the latter. Winter opens up the opportunity for skiing, cross-country, ice skating and snowshoe tours. 

Yet tourism in Kyrgyzstan is also not the sole domain of adventure tourists; the country has fantastic opportunities for culture, too. You can explore the creation of felt handicrafts and shyrdak carpets through studio visits and hands-on classes; enjoy displays of traditional salbuurun hunting with trained eagles and hounds; and set out on culinary tours and cooking classes. Even a simple yurtstay will offer insights into Kyrgyzstan’s culture, appealing to those who aren’t adrenaline junkies or hardcore hikers. 

2. You may not need a visa…

Citizens of 60 countries can travel to Kyrgyzstan without visas for periods of 30 days or more. This includes those with passports from European and North American countries, who are allowed to stay for up to 60 days within a 120-day period. Those who do need visas can typically get them on the government’s straightforward e-visa website.

3. …though you might need a border permit

Regardless of nationality (including Kyrgyz citizens), travelers require a “border permit” document to travel near the borders with Tajikistan and China, plus a small stretch of the border with Kazakhstan. While it is possible to arrange this independently, it can take several weeks and involve several bureaucratic steps – which means visitors would do better to contact a tour operator in advance and pay US$30–50 to have the permit arranged on their behalf.

Another nuance: the border permit is only required for visitors who stay in a border region; it’s not required for visitors who simply enter or leave Kyrgyzstan via an overland border checkpoint.

A group of trekkers sit on a rocky outcrop at the top of a mountain overlooking a glacier valley. Spiky peaks, many covered with snow, like beyond the valley.

Trekkers in Ala-Archa Nature Park, Kyrgyzstan. Baisa/Shutterstock Baisa / Shutterstock

4. You should expect snow in any season

Since many tourists do come for the high mountains and big hikes, this type of traveler should pack for every condition. Son-Köl lake is a famous place that can experience the weather conditions of all four seasons in a single day, and anywhere in the Tien Shan can see sub-zero temperatures and unexpected snowstorms, even in the middle of summer. 

5. Know your ground-transfer options before touching down at Manas International Airport

Walking out of the baggage claim at Manas Airport in Bishkek, you can expect a loud scrum of taxi drivers all clamoring for your business. (Some tourists have even reported having their bags taken from their hands, forcing them to follow.) If you plan to take a taxi, avoid this hassle, as well as the complicated queue of Yandex drivers, by looking for the taxi desk just before baggage claim. With fares to various points within the city hovering just above 1000som (US$11.50), it’s a touch more expensive than the alternatives – but avoiding the hassle is well worth it.

Alternatively, there are two options for public transport into the city center. Minibus 380 runs every half hour from around 7am to 9pm to the central intersection of Chuy and Moladaya Gvardia for 50som (US$0.57); the driver will often charge the same price for your luggage. The GoBus shuttle (hourly; 200som / US$2.30) costs more but travels farther in the city along Chuy and Sovietskaya/Abdrakmanov, terminating at the Tommi Mall shopping center in the south. 

6. Pick up a SIM card for some of the cheapest mobile data in the world

Stay connected across the country by picking up a local SIM card, either at the airport or in any town or city. Kyrgyzstan’s mobile data is among the cheapest in the world, with 1GB costing as low as $0.05. Major local carriers offer free SIM cards to arriving passengers at Bishkek airport: Beeline is reliable in cities but often drops network in rural areas, while O! and MegaCom have stronger coverage in rural regions. If you’ll be staying in a specific area for a length of time, ask local contacts there which is the best choice. 

A woman sits on a bench in a snowy park in winter among the trees and looks attentively at her smartphone

A woman uses her mobile phone in a park in Bishkek, Kyrgyzstan. Dina Lukoianova/Shutterstock Dina Lukoianova / Shutterstock

7. If you stay more 30 days, you’ll have to register your IMEI

If you’ll be using your mobile phone in Kyrgyzstan for more than 30 days, it will stop working unless you register the IMEI (your device’s unique identifier) with a government database. The process is inexpensive (around 550som / US$6.30) but cumbersome via the IMEI.kg website – and does raise privacy concerns that many visitors will find off-putting. 

8. Count on Yandex to get around major cities 

One of the benefits of a working SIM card is the ability to use Yandex Go, the Russian rideshare app present in post-Soviet countries. Many international credit cards will have authorization problems within the app, but it’s also possible to pay by cash – just don’t expect drivers these days to be carrying around change.

9. For cash, the dollar is king

While credit card payments and ATMs are common in cities, in towns and rural areas cash is king. If you’re changing currency, it is possible to change euros and pounds, with a markup – but in most places you’ll get closer to official exchange rates with US dollars than any other currency. Regardless of what you’re carrying, bring fresh, clean notes without tears or folds. If you’re carrying $100 bills, make sure they’re the new ones, in circulation since 2013.

10. When queueing, learn to ask, “Who’s last?”

Whether you’re heading to passport control or fighting to get into the stadium for a match of kok boru (a regional horse sport where teams face off for control of a goat carcass), orderly queuing is not a universal practice in Kyrgyzstan. Should you find yourself in a place with lots of folks milling about but no line (a government office, say), ask loudly: “Kto posledniy?” Whoever answers you is last in the “queue.” Be sure to listen for and stay ready to respond to the next person who poses the question.

11. Be prepared to shake a lot of hands

Central Asian men shake hands. A lot. When entering or leaving a room or gathering, expect to shake hands with every other male guest – even if you’ve barely interacted with them, or haven’t at all. Central Asian women don’t typically shake hands, save for in some (but not all) business environments. To be safe, men should allow local women to offer a hand – or not. Foreign women fall somewhere in between: a handshake is not expected but usually accepted – with the exception of greeting religious men, who may refuse to shake hands with an unfamiliar woman. 

An overhead view of dishes of fruits, pastries, teacups and a teapot presented on a floral-print tablecloth

A spread of food traditionally awaits guests in Kyrgyzstan. Collab Media/Getty Images Collab Media/Getty Images

12. Go easy on the tablecloth spread

By tradition and as a sign of hospitality, a Kyrgyz tablecloth (dastorkon) should be piled with food. Even if you’ve just popped into a guesthouse or yurtstay there will almost always be a table full of sweets, fruit, nuts and other fare. Feel free to help yourself – but within reason. Local hosts have occasionally reported over the years that some tourists feel entitled to take everything on the table, sometimes even dumping it in their bags to take for their onward travels. 

13. Bread is sacred

Bread will be served, or at least offered, at nearly every meal you eat in a public space in Kyrgyzstan. Feel free to eat or skip it – but always treat bread with respect. Never place it upside down on the table, always tear it with two hands (never breaking it with just one) and never, ever throw bread away. Just leave it be, and it will be collected for dogs or livestock. 

A man in traditional dress holds a horse in front of a yurt, as a woman in a purple coat milks the horse.

Horse milk is a wildly popular drink throughout Kyrgyzstan. MehmetO/Shutterstock MehmetO / Shutterstock

14.Expect to encounter horsemeat and horse milk

The horse is central to Kyrgyz culture – a principle that extends to cuisine as well. Beshbarmak (noodles with broth) is often made with horsemeat (particularly at weddings or funerals) – and in recent years it’s become possible to find steak, shashlyk and other dishes prepared using horsemeat, too. Also wildly popular is kymyz, horse milk fermented in sheepskin sacks – most delicious when savored in a mountain yurt camp just a few steps from the source. (While connoisseurs claim to be able tell the origin of the milk from the terroir of the grass on which the horse grazed, we remain skeptical.)

Locals sometimes spend five days or more at special health retreats during which guests drink fresh horse milk at regular intervals throughout the day to cleanse the body and boost the immune system. The uninitiated, however, would be best advised to steer clear – unless they possess an iron stomach, or at least easy access to a private bathroom. 

15. Kyrgyzstan is safe for visitors…

The vast majority of international visitors experience no problems with their personal safety in Kyrgyzstan; even the once widely discussed false-police scams targeting foreigners at Bishkek’s Osh Bazaar have long been curtailed. Nonetheless, visitors of South Asian backgrounds would do well to read up on the ethnic riots of May 2024, and to keep alert when moving around the capital, especially at night. 

16. …but road and trail safety can be an issue

The greatest risks most visitors to Kyrgyzstan face come when they’re on the move, whether that’s hiking or horseback riding or driving on the highways. Outdoor activities pose physical risks wherever in the world you do them – though in remote Kyrgyzstan you’re often a very long way from the nearest hospital.

But the greatest risk to most visitors is merely riding on the roads. Active enforcement and radar cameras have improved road safety considerably in the last decade, but you can still anticipate a lackadaisical attitude among drivers on Kyrgyzstan’s highways. Blind passing on short straights and even corners is still fairly common, and there’s always a real chance of livestock walking slowly across the highway just around the next curve. 

A man in an orange parks stands outside an orange tent pitched on a grassy expanse next to a rushing river. Pines and snow-capped mountains rise in the distance.

Camping in Kyrgyzstan. Anton Petrus/Getty Images Anton Petrus/Getty Images

17. You can camp just about anywhere – but it’s polite to ask first

Wild camping is common for visitors more or less anywhere in the country – many cyclists even camp right on the edge of villages. If you see buildings nearby or someone who’s obviously working the land, it’s both logical and respectful to go shake hands and formally request to pitch your tent. Otherwise, you’re almost always in the clear. 

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26 of the best experiences in Japan

Japan sparks all the senses, from its temple bells, capsule hotels and breezy cat islands to outdoor sculptures, pine-forest hot springs and umami flavors in world-class dining. The downside of having so many incredible attractions in one country is feeling overwhelmed by the options – where to even begin? Don’t worry – we’re here to help with a round-up of the best things to do in Japan, both celebrated and under the radar.

1. Devour authentic Japanese food alongside locals

Wafting aromas of charcoal yakitori chicken skewers with sweet teriyaki sauce. The sizzle of okonomiyaki seafood and cabbage “pancakes” on the hotplate. Everywhere you turn, restaurants and tiny diners whip up magnificent Japanese dishes. Osaka and Fukuoka’s yatai (moveable stalls) make for a street-food paradise, and trying different flavors every day is one of the most exciting Japanese experiences.

For casual eating for couples and groups, a cavernous izakaya is a great choice – part bar, part restaurant, and dependable for a good-value meal of nabemono (hotpot dishes), Kobe and wagyū beef, sashimi and grilled fish. Alternatively, pick out sushi from a kaiten-zushi conveyor-belt restaurant such as Numazukō in Tokyo.

Modern Japanese snacks that are faves with children include cartoonishly fluffy hotcakes, omurice (rice-filled omelet and ketchup) and pyramids of strawberry-and-cream sando (sandwiches).

Plenty of small restaurants specialize in just one dish, such as kara-age (fried chicken), udon (thick wheat noodles), soba (thin buckwheat noodles) or katsu-kare (crumbed pork-cutlet in mild curry). Even small yakitori (barbecued chicken skewers) bars can wow you with their simple smoky flavors that pair perfectly with a glass of sake.

Local tip: A teishoku (set menu) lets you try a bit of everything (rice and miso soup included) and is a popular choice for lunch or a casual dinner.

Pink cherry blossoms within a stretch of woodland covering a hillside

Cherry blossoms at Mt Yoshino during spring. Sean Pavone/Shutterstock ©Sean Pavone/Shutterstock

2. Chase cherry blossoms and festivals

Japan loves a festival. There are plenty of matsuri (festivals) to celebrate snow, summer, music or any subject you can dream up. They are an entertaining way to watch dancers and drummers in the traditional dress of each region, enjoy some street food and be dazzled by lanterns and fireworks. Things stay mostly orderly and child-friendly.

Cherry blossom viewing is nature’s festival and attracts a global crowd – the pink and white blooms signal the end of March and winter. The top spots to see loads of flowers are Mt Yoshino, the Fuji Five Lakes region, castles like Hirosaki-jō, and all across Kyoto.

Other big festivals worth planning for include Kyoto’s summer bash, Gion Matsuri, in July, when you can catch giant floats and locals dressed in elegant yukata (cotton robes). Sapporo’s annual snow festival in early February, Yuki Matsuri, includes the international snow sculpture contest, ice slides and mazes for kids.

3. Cycle between islands around the Seto Inland sea

The Shimanami Kaidō is a place spun from the stuff of cyclists’ dreams. A 70km (43-mile) blue-painted cycle route unfurls across six islands, taking in jade mountains, orange groves and sea air. From Onomichi on Honshū to Imabari on Shikoku, you can make stops to swim at secluded beaches, visit a museum dedicated to local painters, and visit shrines with sea views all to yourself.

Detour: To get even more off the beaten track, take the Tobishima Kaidō cycle route.

4. Sip sake in Saijō

Come to a sake town for a blissfully quiet and meditative experience. Lift the small cup with two hands, one supporting the bottom. Admire the gold leaf dancing on the clear sake. Sip and feel the smooth, crisp liquid go down, chased with a hint of plum. Then it’s on to another brewery next door.

The process of transforming rice into alcohol goes back 2000 years, and some Saijō breweries date back 150 years. The town is an austere set of eight white-washed breweries with brick chimney stacks proclaiming the name of each one in Japanese. Begin your taste-testing at the Kamotsuru Sake Brewing Company, where you can watch the brewing process. Feudal lords drank here during the Edo period (1603–1868), and it was this brewery that produced a gold-leaf sake that US President Obama tried in Tokyo, poured by late Japanese President Abe. It may even entice you to declare your devotion to the god of sake.

People walk past a lakeside temple with gold-leaf tiers

Kinkaku-ji in Kyoto. Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet Rintaro Kanemoto for Lonely Planet

5. Explore temples and gardens of ancient Japan in Kyoto

With over 2000 exquisite temples, Kyoto is where traditional Japan thrives. Visiting splendid gardens and ceremonial teahouses is part of the deep dive into its history. One of the most exquisite sights in the whole of Japan is the gold-leaf tiers of Kinkaku-ji. Its temple beams gloriously in the sun, with a mirror image in the pond below, framed by layers of pine trees.

The garden tradition in Kyoto has close ties to monks, emperors and philosophers. Japanese gardens have minimalist designs to allow breathing room for meditation and reflection. The finest gardens in Kyoto show personality even through subtle choices: a weathered bridge to represent the march of time or unique pebbles. The most intriguing Zen garden is Ryōan-ji, a mysterious arrangement of 15 rocks.

Planning tip: There is a lot to love in Kyoto, so arrive early on a weekday to beat intense crowds and enjoy a peaceful time reflecting on Japan’s living traditions. Come evening, stroll through lantern-lit streets lined with 17th-century traditional restaurants and teahouses in the Gion entertainment and geisha (known locally as geiko) quarter.

6. Zip across Japan on a bullet train

Its space shuttle nose glides into the station as if from another cosmos. That galaxy is Japan, where high-speed trains zip between cities at up to 320km/h (199mph) with extra-terrestrial speed and comfort. From the clean, comfortable seats, watch skyscrapers scroll by, transforming into pines and rural countryside in a flash.

There’s a touch of yesteryear to the hard-wearing carpets and putty-colored luggage racks of some train models, but nothing looks weathered; it’s just carriage loads of retro-futuristic charm.

Planning tip: The JR Pass and other all-inclusive train tickets can save you money and time. Some are cheaper to buy before arriving in Japan. Use the Japan Official Travel App to plan trips and compare costs with and without a pass.

7. Enter anime worlds in Tokyo’s Akihabara and Den Den Town

Akihabara in Tokyo and Den Den Town in Osaka are heaven for anime otaku (fanatics). Even if you aren’t a fan, these specialist districts are worth visiting to experience the height of artistic obsession done the Japanese way.

In Japan, anime is more than something you watch – it is toys, video games, fashion and a way of life. Anime characters even emblazon credit cards, trains and government brochures. Lose yourself in these neighborhoods and see fans bringing characters to life in costume.

It’s easy to be dazzled and transported into a cartoon world (and consumerism). Under towers of bright lights, French-style maids and cosplay characters tout you to enter maid cafes in Akihabara. Hundreds of stores have all the manga (comics), gashapon (gumball toy machines), retro collectibles and cutting-edge tech gadgets your otaku heart could want.

Detour: If you – or the kids – prefer a calmer way to be spirited away by anime, the Ghibli Museum in West Tokyo is also magical.

A corridor with one-person sleeping pods to one side and numbered arrows on the floor indicating which pod is which

A capsule hotel in Kyoto. Pajor Pawel/Shutterstock © Pajor Pawel / Shutterstock

8. Sleep in a capsule hotel

Get ready for a wonderfully unique Japanese experience. Scan the stacks of capsules and step up the ladder into your “space pod.” Sit cross-legged (there’s enough room) and enjoy the plush mattress and the feeling of being cocooned in comfort.

A capsule hotel is where a bed is for sleeping and privacy – paramount in Japan. Fortunately, there is plenty of space in the communal bathrooms that usually have ample shower cubicles.

On the weekends, the cheaper capsule hotels might get drunken revelers snoring, but people are generally very respectful. This is not a place for socializing, which is heaven for travelers who just want a good night’s rest in what looks like a spotless space station.

Planning tip: Capsules are separated into men’s and women’s sections. While originally intended for businessmen, today there are several women-only capsule hotels.

9. Indulge in a multi-course kaiseki meal

Capturing ingredients at the height of their freshness is the essence of a Japanese kaiseki meal. The tasting menu is where the pinnacle of Japanese design meets natural beauty and flavor with roots in 16th-century tea ceremonies.

In-season ingredients make up a formal kaiseki meal that might start with a course of sea urchin and horsehair crab, and then move on to a soup and a seasonal platter of dishes like sushi and Kameoka beef.

The subsequent courses are dedicated to in-season sashimi, color-coordinated vegetables and tofu, grilled seasonal fish, sake, rice in a clay hot pot and dessert. In spring, expect a budding cherry blossom to decorate your plate. Every course is a gasp-inducing journey through Japanese ceramics and presentation.

Local tip: You’ll find some of the best kaiseki in Kyoto, such as at Kikunoi. If your budget can’t stretch to the full kaiseki experience, attending a Japanese tea ceremony is an elegant way to capture some of the rituals and learn the traditions of tea.

10. See a kabuki show in Tokyo

Everything about a kabuki show is truly a spectacle. A typical kabuki show comprises three to four acts, each lasting about an hour. Shows often depict dramatized events from history, the most famous of which is the Chūshingura, which tells the tale of the 47 rōnin, a group of lordless samurai, who avenge the death of their master. From the actors’ dramatic makeup, elaborate costumes and exaggerated movements in tune with the live music to the impeccable stagecraft, it’s easy to see how it has managed to captivate audiences for centuries. 

Planning tip: Kabukiza Theatre, adorned with red lanterns and towering banners, is Tokyo’s premier spot to witness the dramatic art form of kabuki; a type of stylised Japanese theatre.

People look up to a multi-tiered castle with white walls surrounded

Himeji-jō, a UNESCO World Heritage site, dates from 1580. gowithstock/Shutterstock gowithstock / Shutterstock

11. Live out samurai fantasies in Himeji and Tsuwano

Samurai warriors once ruled Japan, residing around Japanese castles that still exude an aura of power today. Crane your head up in Himeji to behold Himeji-jō (1580) – the most heavenly white, intact fortress of them all and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Then wander the complex along its labyrinth of paths, thick with cherry blossoms (in April). Ascend the six-story castle keep and peek inside a former princess’ residence – the stuff of peak Japanese fantasy.

The castle has crumbled, but samurai residences live on in Tsuwano, a Japanese mountain town where time seems in no hurry. Zig-zag up to its hillside temple through the many torii gates. At the heart of town, surrounded by sleepy sake storefronts, you can step into former samurai houses, once off-limits to commoners. Tsuwano delivers a sense of Japanese fairy tale without the crowds. Golden carp swim the narrow canal running through the tow center as they have for two centuries.

12. Try every Japanese snack in a konbini

Japanese konbini (convenience stores) are one of Japan’s most fun local eating experiences. They might not be fine dining, but they’re part of many Japanese bullet train journeys, and they surprisingly (to most visitors) offer high-quality snacks wherever you are in the country, 24 hours a day.

Tasty sushi, onigiri (rice balls filled with tuna, meat or plum) and grilled-fish bentō (boxed meals) are delivered around the clock, so you will likely get something fresh. You’ll find more novelty and an explosion of choice (and matcha flavors) in the candy, beer and green tea aisles.

Planning tip: The most reliably good konbini are Family Mart, 7-Eleven and Lawson, which all have ATMs that accept foreign cards.

13. Dissolve away your stress in onsen hot springs

An onsen hot spring takes volcanic energy and converts it to a hot bath with the power to evaporate your worries. A 3000-year tradition, onsen are found all over Japan and are among the most authentically Japanese experiences you can have, whether you’re bathing at humble public bathhouses or in Zen gardens. The natural settings allow you to feel the delicious contrast of the hot waters against the pine-fresh open air.

You can try them in many ryokan (traditional inns) and in resort towns such as Kusatsu and Beppu, where budget options are available in public bathhouses. To literally dip your toes in, there are free outdoor public foot baths in onsen towns.

Local tip: You have to bathe thoroughly at separate facilities before getting into a hot bath. Expect to get completely naked (modesty towels are allowed at some modern baths) and refreshed head to toe.

A large art installation of a yellow pumpkin with black spots on the end of a jetty

Yayoi Kusama’s pumpkin sculpture on the jetty in Naoshima island. VTT Studio/Shutterstock VTT Studio / Shutterstock

14. Hunt for art outdoors in Naoshima and Hakone

Encountering contemporary art on an island village is a delight. On Naoshima and the surrounding islands, you’ll find traditional Japanese buildings converted into modern art installations incorporating the island’s history; he sunshine and sea air add an extra layer of sensory magic. One of the most famous and joy-filled is the Yayoi Kusama Yellow Pumpkin sculpture waiting for you at the end of a jetty.

Nearer Tokyo, over a hundred monumental sculptures pepper the hills of Hakone Open-Air Museum. Thanks to this magical setting, works by Japanese and international artists such as Takao Tsuchida, Henry Moore and Picasso transform along with the seasons.

15. Watch a sumo match at Tokyo’s Ryōgoku Kokugikan

An ancient sport dating back some 1500 years, sumo’s origins are rooted in religion: bouts were originally performed at shrines as part of a ritual for the gods, in return for a bountiful harvest. Today’s sumo matches are still very ritualistic and tied to the Shintō faith.

Planning tip: Witness Japan’s national sport of sumo wrestling at Tokyo’s Ryōgoku Kokugikan in January, May and September. Even if you know nothing about sumo, you’ll still want a ticket to see the rituals and strength on display.

16. Stay in a traditional ryokan

A ryokan is a traditional Japanese inn that, at its best, is fit for a feudal lord. Staying in a ryokan room is easy and rewarding – remove your slippers, slide open the shōji paper-screen door and step across the tatami mat floor of your room to the window. When ready, change into your yukata (traditional cotton robe) and head to the dining room for a multi-course kaiseki meal of the region’s cuisine. Afterwards, take a dip in the onsen or slip straight into your reassuringly firm bed.

Snowboarders and skiiers on slopes in the shadow of a large mountain peak

People on the snowy slopes in Hokkaidō’s Niseko Ski area. atthle/Shutterstock

17. Embrace winter weather, skiing and ice sculptures in Hokkaidō

Snow poised on the eaves of temples. Trees glazed with ice. Steam wafting over the onsen. Winter in Japan’s north peaks in January, and February is the perfect time for skiing and hiking across powdery snow in the wilds of Hokkaidō. Or enjoy the Japanese art of coziness in izakaya (taverns) with winter comfort dishes like oden fishcakes in a dashi broth.

For families, the ice sculptures of the Sapporo Snow Festival and the bathing wild monkeys of Jigokudani Monkey Park are fun for all ages. You might even spot Japan’s iconic red-crowned cranes.

Detour: A side trip for taste-testing at Nikka Whisky is a warming delight.

18. Immerse yourself in digital art at teamLab Planets in Tokyo

There are plenty of themed museums in Japan, but the most avante garde is teamLab Planets. Every surface is a digital screen with a world of flowers, animals and scenery transporting you to another “planet.” Prepare to get your feet wet as you walk on water, causing ripples and digital koi goldfish to dart.

Detour: Check out a Nintendo-themed cafe, Pokémon-themed cafe or Tokyo Character Street if you’re visiting Tokyo with kids. Tokyo Disneyland and DisneySea are also accessible from the capital.

19. Eat fresh sushi and sashimi

Japan is the largest fish-eating nation in the world. Preparing fish and seafood is an art, and its fish markets are the life force of that tradition. They are impeccably clean places with barely any fishy smells. Early risers can catch the wholesale auctions at Tokyo’s Toyosu Market from behind glass. The laneways of its former home at Tsukiji Market may have become a tourist-focused attraction, but restaurants across the country (especially in coastal towns) still sell excellent platters of sashimi and sushi prepared before you.

If it’s all a little confusing, choose sushi sets in sushi-ya (sushi restaurants and bars). Or trust the chef at omakase restaurants, where your personal chef will prepare in-season and classic sushi and sashimi in front of you based on your tastes. Bill shock is quite possible.

Local tip: Karato Ichiba in Shimonoseki is a favorite market for a local vibe. On weekends, fisher folk set up stalls selling bentō of sashimi and cooked dishes of the local specialty, puffer fish (with the deadly parts removed, of course).

An island with a shrine glows as the sunset streaks the sky with yellows and oranges

Sunset over the island of Yomegashima in Lake Shinji, Matsue. maso11/Shutterstock maso11 / Shutterstock

20. Relax in a seaside town

Japan is a country born of the sea. In its seaside towns, you’ll see squid drying on spinning racks in the sun, eat the freshest sashimi, find wooden shopfronts of yesteryear and soak up the lazy rays.

Tomonoura inspired anime maestro Hayao Miyazaki to create the 2008 animated film Ponyo on the Cliff by the Sea – get ready to be entranced by the green hills that shelter a port of bobbing white boats. In Kamakura near Tokyo, you can stroll from a giant Buddha statue to the black-sand beach and admire sunsets from Enoshima Island.

There are 260 inhabited islands to retreat to. The Oki Islands are an oasis of sea coves, the highest sea cliffs in Japan and pristine waters all to yourself. To really slow down, Okinawa is an island dreamland with its own distinct culture and cuisine.

There are a handful of cat islands where hundreds of spoiled felines roam near the ports. From Tokyo, the most convenient is Tashirojima. Cats have wandered this island for hundreds of years – first to control the mice eating the silkworms, then as a lucky companion to fisherfolk.

Local tip: Matsue has one of Japan’s best sunsets. The giant red orb melts into the water with a silhouette of a torii gate on a distant shimmering island.

21. Find your tribe in Tokyo’s nightlife

Tokyo is the cool kid of Japan’s club and bar scene. That means a reliable night of house music at Womb and EDM at Atom Tokyo. Punk, metal and indie bars rock hard throughout “Shimokita” (Shimokitazawa).

Leading the way for LGBTIQ+ inclusion, the raucous crowds spilling onto the street around the gay clubs of Shinjuku-Nichōme show how progressive Tokyo can be.

Detour: For something more laid-back, excellent whiskey bars operate across Tokyo. Japanese distillers regularly beat Scotland in whiskey competitions. Indulge at one of the best whiskey purveyors, Bar Benfiddich, if you can find this hidden, menu-less cocktail speakeasy.

22. Make a wish at a Shintō shrine

Shintō shrines – a place in harmony with nature, where the trees and wind are framed by a giant gate – are where the Japanese pray or ask for good fortune. The kami (deities) range from Princess Konohanasakuya, the Shintō deity of Mt Fuji, to founders of powerful clans, or neighborhood deities. A wall of ema (wooden tablets) hangs at many shrines, where you can write down your wish or offering for the deities to read. For a visitor, it’s a chance to reflect and appreciate the tranquil surroundings.

Pray to the kami of rice at Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari-Taisha and its tunnel of vermillion torii gates, ask for good exam results at plum-tree decorated Tenjin shrine Dazaifu Tenman-gū, or pray for general good luck at what is thought to be Japan’s oldest Shinto shrine, Izumo Taisha.

An arched memorial with flowers in front. Through the arch in the distance is a building with a damaged dome

The Memorial Cenotaph at Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park. WorldStock/Shutterstock ©WorldStock/Shutterstock

23. Sense peace in reborn Hiroshima

Hiroshima today is an attractive city of boulevards and okonomiyaki restaurants. It’s also a city that can change the way you think about world conflicts. The impressive Peace Memorial Park shows how the human tragedy of the atomic bomb attack on the city has been transformed into a message of peace.

The Peace Memorial Museum is moving, while the outdoor space gives visitors the breathing room to reflect. There, the Children’s Peace Monument is decorated with strings of thousands of paper cranes sent from schoolchildren around Japan and the world. The origami symbol of longevity and happiness is an ongoing living message of peace.

24. Discover your favorite ramen

Is it a bowl of noodles in a dashi broth topped with sliced roast pork, or is it a cult? Ramen is both. Evangelists insist that the best ramen is at nothing-fancy ramen-ya (ramen diners), which boomed after WWII. Today you can slurp it your own way: shōyu (soy sauce) ramen, miso (soybean paste) ramen, Kitakata ramen (pork shōyu), dipping ramen or, the most famous internationally, tonkotsu (pork bone) ramen.

A few ramen restaurants in Tokyo (where the fusion started) even hold Michelin Bib Gourmand ratings: Nakiryu, Konjiki Hototogisu and Ginza Hachigo.

Each region has its own spin on the meal – from thin noodles in a clear soup (closer to its Chinese origins) to a thick ginger broth. Nearly all offer an optional side dish of gyōza (pork dumplings) and a heavenly gooey egg.

25. Surf and chill

Japan has a vibrant scene of two million surfers who know where to find turquoise waters and sparkling sand. Even if you can’t yet catch a wave, the best surf beaches in Japan have a chilled vibe that you can enjoy. Learn to surf at one of the schools at Shirara-hama, which has year-round, easygoing breaks. Swells tend to be smaller in Japan (outside of typhoons), making it a great spot for newbies. Ōkinohama in Shikoku is a surfer’s paradise. The jewel-like water is warm year-round and sees very few visitors.

Detour: Even if you are in Tokyo, the waves and summer beach shacks are just an hour away at Yuigahama Beach in Kamakura.

26. Fall in love with Mt Fuji

Outside of Tokyo, Mt Fuji seems to be everywhere you turn. More than Japan’s loftiest mountain, Mt Fuji is a spiritual symbol that represents perfect beauty. Hiking its alien slopes takes the dedication of a Shintō pilgrim.

For easier admiration, make day trips to Hakone and the Fuji Five Lakes. Here, whether you see Mt Fuji from behind a frame of golden leaves, cherry blossoms and a shrine or even a konbini; there is something bewitching about witnessing Fuji as it dominates the horizon.

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