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Croatia has some stunning towns and cities, but none can match Dubrovnik for tourist appeal. The only problem? Given the number of visitors to this Dalmatian port’s small and lovely old town, budget travelers can feel squeezed out.
Never fear: while Dubrovnik can be expensive, some of the finest things to do in the city are completely free. Indeed, a lot of Dubrovnik’s appeal comes down to the experience of just being there.
Stone walls surround green-shuttered houses and elegant churches. During the day, the Adriatic sparkles with sunlight, while at night the paved streets – polished smooth by thousands of wandering feet – have a shimmer of their own. Check out great paintings and colorful markets, or take a swim off rocky coves – it needn’t cost you a Croatian kuna.
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Green hills dot the city’s outer rim, providing a lovely chance to enjoy nature without leaving Dubrovnik. For the best views, hike up the Way of the Cross path to the top of 413m-high (1355ft) Srđ hill to see the old town’s terracotta roofs spread beneath you like the palm of a hand.
Across town, the hiking trails on the Petka hills lead through the cool shade of Mediterranean forests up to stunning views of the tiny Grebeni rocks and the mystical Elafiti Islands. Timing is everything: avoid the high sun and come prepared with water, sunscreen, snacks and a sunhat.
Dubrovnik’s old town stood in for the great city of King’s Landing in the epic TV series Game of Thrones, providing the setting for intrigue, murder and some dagger-sharp one-liners – it looks likely to feature in prequel House of the Dragon too.
For a free self-guided walking tour of the highlights you could start at the Jesuit stairs (near St Ignatius church), where Cersei’s infamous “walk of shame” scene was set, heading past the Pile Gate (where a crowd threw manure at Joffrey). Stroll down to the shore (King’s Landing’s harbor), and continue west past Fort Lawrence (the Red Keep) to serene Gradac Park (where Joffrey had a bad wedding experience).
Dubrovnik’s old town is the city’s greatest sight. Its twin drawbridges and mix of medieval, Renaissance and Baroque architecture give it a fairy-tale feel, and as you explore it every square becomes a stage and every view a postcard. This was once the center of a trading network that stretched from the Adriatic to the Black Sea. Rebuilt after a 1667 earthquake, its promenades and palaces feel like they’ve barely changed in centuries.
The best part for budget travelers? While there’s a fee to climb the famous walls, the streets themselves are open to anyone. You can watch tourists and locals from the stairs of St Blaise’s Church, sit on a bench in the picturesque harbor, or gaze down at swimmers at Porporela.
Churches in Dubrovnik display art by local artists and international greats. In the Baroque Cathedral, you can admire the Assumption of Mary, a three-paneled 16th-century masterpiece by Titian above the main altar. The church, like most in the city, is free, though there’s a small fee to enter the attached Treasury.
Other godly highlights include St Ignatius of Loyola Church, where stunning Baroque frescoes fill the main apse, and St Blaise’s Church, with colorful stained glass windows by renowned local painter Ivo Dulčić.
Many of the visitors who mill around cafe-packed Luža Sq don’t give the carved column in the middle a second glance. But this 1418 statue of an armored knight was once the city’s focal point. The Orlando Column shows the hero of the Song of Roland, a medieval poem that kicked off the whole idea of chivalry. Orlando was adopted by Dubrovnik as a heroic savior – and his 51.2cm (20.2in) right forearm became the city-state’s basic measurement of length, the “ell”.
The Grad Market adds a splash of vibrant color to the old town stone every morning. Many stalls stock such traditional local sweets as dried figs, arancini (Croatian candied orange peel), and bruštulani mjenduli (candied almonds), and offer a free taste before you buy. Foodies should also venture to the city’s main market in Gruž, which has its own fish market.
The 1991–92 war that followed the breakup of Yugoslavia left Dubrovnik shattered. Impressive repair work means the city’s scars are hard to spot, but if you look closely around the old town you’ll see damage from shrapnel and bullets, as well as plaques of remembrance. The ornate, 500-year-old Sponza Palace has a free Memorial Room that shows the portraits of the young men and women who died defending Dubrovnik during its seven-month siege.
The beaches are nearly impossible to privatize around Dubrovnik, so even the most popular ones, like Banje or Sveti Jakov, have room for beachgoers who prefer to put down a towel instead of renting a lounger. For sunbathing the way locals do it, head to rugged Danče or scenic Šulić; for adrenaline, dive off the rocks on Buža. For family time, venture across town to Lapad Bay, which offers pebbly shores and dramatic sunsets.
Visiting the exclusive Clara Stones Jewellery will teach you all about sumptuous red Adriatic coral. The region’s only semiprecious material is known for its shiny scarlet color – yet before craftspeople have their way with the material, it is neither shiny nor red. At the Clara Stones workshop, you can witness the magical transformation first-hand.
It’s hard to believe you can take a day trip to the islands around Dubrovnik at no cost – yet with local NGO Green Sea Safari, you’ll pay for the experience in kind, by helping the group clean up remote bits of the coast. After about an hour’s work, it’s break time, as you swim in crystal-clear waters, island-hop, explore watery caves and more. While the NGO relies on donations, these aren’t obligatory.
Each November and December (and sometimes through to March), the Dubrovnik Tourism Board throws in a freebie for the town’s low-season visitors. On Saturday mornings, free guided walking tours of the old town are followed by a folk singing and dancing performance on Luža Sq, providing insight into traditions that have nourished this gem of a city for centuries.
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Author: Daniel Fahey
Fittingly shaped like a tropical fish, St Kitts packs a lot to see and do in its lush and historical expanse. One of the Caribbean’s best stone forts dominates the north, while a string of beaches dot the south. Distinct mountain ranges – and an extinct volcano – add texture.
Besides the fortress, the island’s other unique attraction is its former sugarcane railroad, now repurposed for sightseeing. St Kitts is a major cruise-ship port, and there’s plenty to fit all budgets, from a free day on a beach to wandering the characterful streets of the main city, Basseterre.
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Whether you’re just here for a day, on a visit from neighboring Nevis or ensconced for a longer stay, you’ll find plenty of extraordinary things to see and do in St Kitts, no matter your style or mood.
St Kitts is home to one of the best stone fortresses in the western hemisphere. The British laid the first huge, black volcanic stone in 1690. Over the next centuries, the fortress was fought over by the Brits and the French, who occupied it from 1782 to 1794 after an intense siege.
Imagine invaders sailing your way as you revel in the views out to sea. Exhibits detail the harsh lives of soldiers stationed here, and the even harsher lives of the slaves forced to construct the 7ft-thick walls. If you only make one excursion to northern St Kitts, make it this Unesco-recognized fort.
The Atlantic-facing beach on the isthmus southeast of Basseterre gets pounded by waves from the open ocean for much of the year. The breakers can offer thrilling swimming, although they also demand respect and caution. Offshore reefs moderate the action slightly, but still, this is the beach to come to for pounding surf. Head to the north end away from resorts and condos to escape the crowds.
Easily walked to from its northern neighbor, this beach is better known as the Strip. It’s the focus of raucous tourist action on St Kitts and has a string of beach bars and clubs popular with revelers nearly around the clock. Not as scenic as its northern namesake, few care when they’re limbering up for another drinking contest. The protected waters offer gentle swimming for all ages.
Cheerfully billing itself as the “last railway in the West Indies,” this rattling, narrow-gauge train offers a leisurely 18-mile tour around a northern portion of St Kitts. Opened in 1926, the railway once fully circled the main part of the island and allowed intensive sugarcane production to continue until the last crop in 2005.
The trains have unusual double-deck cars with shaded, open-air top decks – an ideal perch for taking in the island’s natural beauty. The circular tours also include a 12-mile portion by bus that returns you to the terminal near the airport.
Views across St Kitts and on to nearby Nevis and even more distant Antigua are among the rewards for climbing Mt Liamuiga, the extinct 3792ft (1156m) volcano that looms over the island. The 2.5-mile (4km), 2½-hour trek to the top – the first two-thirds of which is mostly through shady, dense rainforest – is a popular excursion for athletic visitors.
The final ascent is the real challenge, with plenty of boulders and tree roots to navigate on the steep trail. Besides the sweeping views across the sea, the summit vantage point lets you peer down into the deep crater, which has a seasonal lake and active fumaroles. Treks begin in Newton Ground, and the services of a guide are highly recommended.
Few tours circle the north of the island without a pause at Romney Manor, which offers an intriguing mix of old and new attractions. The historic part of this lushly landscaped site is the partial ruin of the Wingfield Estate sugar plantation.
Dating to the 17th century, the manor house and bell tower were the hubs of a large estate that grew rich off the forced labor of hundreds of slaves. The intriguing gardens feature plants first planted in this era. A restored manor house is now home to the well-known Caribelle Batik workshop, where all manner of textiles are created using techniques imported from Indonesia.
The French and English battled for supremacy in the Caribbean for more than 200 years; however, the two historic rivals combined forces in 1626, when the Indigenous Carib people on St Kitts attacked the European colonists. More than 2000 Caribs were killed at this bleak, rocky crevice, some 4 miles northwest of Basseterre – hence the name. Signboards lay out the history, and a small concrete bridge offers an ideal perspective for reflection on the conquest of the region.
The green center of Basseterre is Independence Square. The brightly painted fountain at its center belies its horrific past as the center of the local slave trade – men, women and children kidnapped from Africa were bought and sold here well into the 19th century.
Today the landscaped gardens are a popular gathering spot. Palms soar over the periphery, and in summer, the island’s symbolic trees, poincianas, explode in a scarlet profusion of flowers. Look for bars on the basement windows of the building along the south side of the square; this was one of the fetid dungeons where slaves were held pending sale.
St Kitts’s small principal city, Basseterre, has an equally diminutive focal point known as the Circus. Although oft-repeated local lore claims it was modeled on London’s Piccadilly Circus, this Circus has little in common with its far more frenetic Commonwealth cousin. Yes, four main roads converge here, but the scale is small and the vibe relaxed.
A Victorian-era artifact, Berkeley Memorial Clock, rises from the center of traffic. Meeting in the shadow of this green-hued, gold-trimmed edifice is a local tradition. Find a seat on the terrace of a café at one of the modest surrounding buildings, which combine elements of island and Georgian style, and enjoy superb people-watching.
The same volcanic limestone blocks used to build structures great and small across St Kitts form the walls of the two-story National Museum in Basseterre, which opened in 1894 as the Treasury Building.
Exhibits here trace the island’s history, from the indigenous Carib people through the slave and plantation era and on to independence in 1983. Look for photographs from the 19th century, which unflinchingly document the lives of the workers in the sugar and rum trades. The human drama across the centuries is particularly astonishing given the island’s small size: just 68 sq miles (176 sq km).
This long, south-facing beach is a favorite of the 40,000 residents of St Kitts – the snorkeling is good right off the beach, and the swimming is excellent.
Bars popular with visitors bookend the sand, but along the middle portion you’ll find casual cafes and stalls where people unwind after work, on their days off and always on Sundays. Look for locally caught seafood like grouper served simply right off the grill. The vibe is mellow, friendly and infused with a pulsing soca beat that revolves around limin’ (hanging out, drinking and talking).
Both excursion-minded day-trippers from cruise ships and longer-term visitors will see all sorts of offers for waterborne adventures. Some tours include a stop at a beach on nearby Nevis; other excursions are timed to catch the sunset, and some feature a beach barbecue. Boats range in size from small fishing craft right up to large catamarans, where the party never stops – on and off the poop deck.
Nevis is the other half of this island nation, and its conical shape is best viewed from Cockleshell Beach, on the bay of the same name at the southern tip of St Kitts. The powdery white sand stretches for more than 2 miles (3.2km), and it’s as alluring as any in the Caribbean.
The scene can get frenetic when large cruise ships are in port, so if you prefer a more laid-back scene, pick a less-visited day. Cafes and bars of varying formality and watersports vendors offer myriad ways to enjoy your time here.
While the beaches at the south end of St Kitts justifiably get all the attention, the cove at Dieppe Bay on the northern tip offers a wonderful escape – at times, it can feel like your own private beach.
Dark, nearly black volcanic sand mixes with strands of lighter colors. The surf is gentle thanks to offshore reefs, and the vibe is the epitome of mellow, as the small village is quiet and almost tourist-free. A couple of simple cafes offer views that match their fresh local fare in appeal.
You can go snorkeling and diving in coves all around St Kitts. There are more than 25 dive sites, including several shipwrecks. Coconut Tree Reef is in excellent condition and rewards divers from 40ft to 110ft (12m to 34m) below the surface.
Just off Brimstone Hill, Sandy Point National Marine Park has reefs and sea turtles. Operators organize boat trips that cater to varying skills and interests, from those looking for a selfie with a fish to serious divers ready to explore the depths. Most beaches in the south have vendors with snorkeling gear you can use right offshore. A top choice is White House Bay, which has reefs and shipwrecks.
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Author: Maya Stanton
New York is skyscraper city, its skyline famously piercing the heavens with tall iconic towers. And yet, it wasn’t until relatively recently when some of those sky-high rooftops were finally converted into bars.
We don’t know what took so long, but at the moment, the rooftop bar scene in New York City is better than ever, with high-quality cocktails being shaken and/or stirred up to go along with awe-inducing views of this eight-million-person metropolis.
With the warm weather comes cool, refreshing cocktails, and why stick to the street to imbibe them on a hot summer evening? Reach for the rooftops and that frozen margarita or chilled negroni will taste a lot better with the view.
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You’re free to move about the bar at this singular rooftop watering hole at the TWA Hotel at John F. Kennedy International Airport. Watch the planes land and take off, trying to guess where in the world the destination might be, while sipping on aviation-themed cocktails like Jet Fuel, Vodka is My Co-Pilot, Control Tour Sour and Mile-High Margarita. Just don’t fall into the bar’s infinity pool after imbibing too many rum-based Floatation Devices—otherwise, you may need a real-life floatation device.
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Set above the McKittrick Hotel, famous for housing the interactive performance “Sleep No More,” Gallow Green is a verdant and lively spot that offers frozen rosé/vodka drinks and margarita flights, as well as an array of classic cocktails to go along with the views over Chelsea rooftops and the High Line.
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It’s only six floors up, but Bar Blondeau, located atop the Wythe Hotel in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, offers a stunning view of Manhattan from across the East River. The culinary team from nearby French-Canadian hit Chez Ma Tante took over the kitchen in 2021 and turned the space into a Gallic-leaning bar. With a view like this, the food doesn’t have to be so good, but it is here.
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This charming, antique-loaded bar is only a few floors above the hipster-crammed streets of Williamsburg, Brooklyn, but what it lacks in altitude it makes up for in ambience. Take a seat on the leafy rooftop deck while sipping one of the many inventive cocktails they make here—a beet and dill vodka concoction, for example, or a bison grass vodka-infused drink with apple juice, a play on the Polish cocktail “Tatanka.” The roof deck also has a frozen margarita machine.
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Set 18 floors up in the ModernHaus SoHo hotel, Jimmy provides perfect views of the cast-iron-clad buildings that flank the cobblestone streets off SoHo. Lounge on the outdoor terrace while sipping a refreshing tequila-spiked mango slush or a strawberry-flavored Moscow mule. When it’s colder, head indoors where leather furniture, a fireplace and cocktail list gets warmer and autumnal.
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Built in 1928 in what was once a women’s-only hotel, Ophelia is about as classic New York City as they come. The Art Nouveau stylings, tall ornate cathedral windows and views of the east side Manhattan skyline from 26 floors above the street all make for an ideal venue for drinking a dirty martini, a Manhattan or one of the 14 signature cocktails that are shaken up here nightly. And if all that doesn’t make you feel like you’re king off the hill, A number one, then there’s this little fact: Frank Sinatra used to hang out here.
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Sixty-four floors up, Overstory is brought to you by the people who gave us Saga, the elegant restaurant one floor down, and Crown Shy, the elegant restaurant on the ground floor of this Downtown Manhattan skyscraper. Quaff an expertly made signature cocktail—the 212, with whisky, vermouth, cocoa nibs, Amaro and black pear, is great—or sip a classic libation and enjoy watching the verve and the sparkle of the city below. Overstory recently won Michter’s Art of Hospitality Award, voted by 220 members of North America’s 50 Best Bars Academy.
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Crowned atop the 50 Bowery hotel, this 21st-floor bar in Chinatown has an expansive roof deck with stunning views of the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges—the ideal spot for nibbling on excellent pastrami-stuffed steamed buns and veggie spring rolls in between sips from that lychee martini.
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It’s like Havana-on-the-Hudson at Azul, a 200-seat, 20-story-high SoHo rooftop bar that’s bedecked with palm trees, reclaimed wood tables and teal accents where you can nurse mojitos, graze on a pork-loaded Cuban sandwich, and listen to Afro-Cuban jazz, mambo and rumba all night.
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The servers at this 34th-floor bar sport name tags that also include their favorite bad or musical artists. You might see Depeche Mode, Prince or Led Zeppelin and it ends up becoming a conversation starter. No surprise that RT60 sits atop the new Hard Rock Hotel near Times Square. You won’t find any rock star memorabilia on the outdoor terrace; just views of the surrounding towers, plates of snacks like hummus and sliders, and nicely made cocktails. The in-house Yankees-themed NYY Steak, while not on the roof, is a delicious place to retreat to when the stomach starts to rumble again.
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Located atop the Moxy in the East Village, the rooftop bar has a raucous vibe, like you just arrived, mid-party, at a friend’s backyard beer-laden bash—and if that friend had, by chance, a retractable roof and tableside coolers filled with cans of beer and bottles of wine. If you feel like starting early, the happy hour deal is a good one: $5 margaritas and $1 tacos Wednesday to Friday from 4 to 6pm and Saturday and Sunday from noon to 3pm. If you want something more substantial, head downstairs to the in-house eatery Cathedrale.
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Roosevelt Island attracts visitors for the fun cable car that floats between Second Avenue and E. 59th Street and the middle of the island. Many people get off, look around to see a somewhat drab neighborhood, and then get back on cable car to Manhattan. A few others may walk to the southern tip of the island to gawk at the 19th-century ruined hospital once used for quarantining smallpox sufferers. But now there’s another, more cheery reason to come: the Panorama Room, located 18 floors atop the Graduate hotel, lives up to its name with all-encompassing views of the east side of Manhattan, Queens, and parts of Brooklyn. Plus, there are excellent food offerings marrying low and high-brow delights, including caviar nachos and truffle fries.
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With 360-degree views of surrounding skyscrapers plus a riot of dazzling colors across the Hudson River at sunset, Skylark provides visual fireworks to go with a seasonal cocktail menu of well-shaken potent drinks. The libations here are good enough to make you think the person handing it to you should be a hipster wearing old-timey suspenders and have a waxed mustache. From 30 floors up, the bi-level rooftop bar in Midtown is tastefully designed with Art Deco touches and some semi-private nooks, making it an ideal date spot.
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Located in the Dominick Hotel in west SoHo, the seventh-floor terrace bar often changes each year, starting in May. For the past two years, it’s been El Ta’koy, a restaurant and lounge that has other outlets in Chicago and London that fuses ingredients from Mexico and Hawaii to create tantalizing pork-and-pineapple tacos and ahi poke tuna nachos, as well as plenty of fruit-based boozy concoctions to go with the views of SoHo.
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Thirty floors up in Midtown—just two blocks south of Bryant Park—sits Daintree, a sophisticated plant-laden lounge (with indoor and outdoor seating options) that puts its boozy focus on one particular drink: the martini. Choose between five options or scan down to the “Everything Else” part of the menu where you can opt for one of a handful of strong mezcal- and rum-based libations—potent enough that after a few you might squint at the Empire State Building and ask: is there a giant gorilla on that building?
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The post I’ve been to nearly every NYC rooftop bar: these are the 15 best for summer 2022
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Author: Maya Stanton