“Our focus this morning is on the red wines made on the Corton hill in Burgundy,” said senior editor Bruce Sanderson, introducing a lineup of four grands crus. “The wines are influenced by the different characteristics of each vineyard, but if you take a little time to get to know the various terroirs and producers, you will be rewarded.”
Each of the panelists represented a family-run domaine, some of which have been passed down for centuries. The range of vintages showcased how Corton wines age; at 10 years, these Pinot Noirs are just getting started.
Nathalie Tollot, co-owner of Tollot-Beaut, which owns a plot in Corton-Bressandes, noted how crucial the vineyard’s position is: “What makes it quite different to other grands crus is that Corton-Bressandes lies on the east side of the hill, which is facing the rising sun, which dries off the humidity from the night and keeps it warm during the day.”
The 2016 (not yet rated) she poured was young, bottled just in January. “It’s presenting quite well … it’s full of fruit because of a nice cool vintage,” Tollot said. “In Burgundy, we don’t like too-warm vintages. We prefer to have cool ones to preserve the aromas.”
Stepping back a few years for the next wine, Bouchard Père & Fils technical director Philippe Prost shared Le Corton Domaine 2014 (93 points, $125), from a vineyard the house converted to organic farming. The reward is in the glass. Although the 2014 vintage was on the rainier and cooler side, he said, they had “exceptional fruit, a top year for this location. It gives marvelous expression, we can say without a doubt, so the fruit could rise to the top, but there’s still very nice acidity.”
The Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley 2009 (95, $200 on release), picking up notes of leather and truffle, is unusual in that the grand cru designation includes the owner’s name. Erwan Faiveley’s family bought the vineyard in 1874. “In the 1930s, the appellation organization asked us to stop using the name Clos des Cortons because there were many clos around Corton,” he explained. “Eventually we went to court. The judge decided that to avoid confusion it would be called Clos des Cortons Faiveley. We said, ‘Thank you.’”
“With that wine, you can really start to see the complexity” that comes from aging nearly a decade, Sanderson said, “and now we’re going to step back another 10 years.”
That meant 1999—“one of best vintages of the last 25 to 30 years,” said Louis-Fabrice Latour, as the Louis Latour Corton Château Corton Grancey (not rated) was poured. “Perhaps one of the best vintages ever in Burgundy. We were able to make a vintage that is full-bodied, nicely structured, the color is still there, and great focus.”
As the 11th-generation steward of the house (which still has some 1865s in the cellar), Latour has the long view on how Burgundy character changes with age: “We say that the vintage is more important than the terroir; as time goes by, the terroir seems more important.”