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11 of the best free things to do in Dubrovnik: walking tours, Game of Thrones’ locations and more
Croatia has some stunning towns and cities, but none can match Dubrovnik for tourist appeal. The only problem? Given the number of visitors to this Dalmatian port’s small and lovely old town, budget travelers can feel squeezed out.
Never fear: while Dubrovnik can be expensive, some of the finest things to do in the city are completely free. Indeed, a lot of Dubrovnik’s appeal comes down to the experience of just being there.
Stone walls surround green-shuttered houses and elegant churches. During the day, the Adriatic sparkles with sunlight, while at night the paved streets – polished smooth by thousands of wandering feet – have a shimmer of their own. Check out great paintings and colorful markets, or take a swim off rocky coves – it needn’t cost you a Croatian kuna.
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Get above the city on the Way of the Cross path and the Petka hills
Green hills dot the city’s outer rim, providing a lovely chance to enjoy nature without leaving Dubrovnik. For the best views, hike up the Way of the Cross path to the top of 413m-high (1355ft) Srđ hill to see the old town’s terracotta roofs spread beneath you like the palm of a hand.
Across town, the hiking trails on the Petka hills lead through the cool shade of Mediterranean forests up to stunning views of the tiny Grebeni rocks and the mystical Elafiti Islands. Timing is everything: avoid the high sun and come prepared with water, sunscreen, snacks and a sunhat.
Explore the real King’s Landing
Dubrovnik’s old town stood in for the great city of King’s Landing in the epic TV series Game of Thrones, providing the setting for intrigue, murder and some dagger-sharp one-liners – it looks likely to feature in prequel House of the Dragon too.
For a free self-guided walking tour of the highlights you could start at the Jesuit stairs (near St Ignatius church), where Cersei’s infamous “walk of shame” scene was set, heading past the Pile Gate (where a crowd threw manure at Joffrey). Stroll down to the shore (King’s Landing’s harbor), and continue west past Fort Lawrence (the Red Keep) to serene Gradac Park (where Joffrey had a bad wedding experience).
Wander the open-air museum of Dubrovnik’s old town
Dubrovnik’s old town is the city’s greatest sight. Its twin drawbridges and mix of medieval, Renaissance and Baroque architecture give it a fairy-tale feel, and as you explore it every square becomes a stage and every view a postcard. This was once the center of a trading network that stretched from the Adriatic to the Black Sea. Rebuilt after a 1667 earthquake, its promenades and palaces feel like they’ve barely changed in centuries.
The best part for budget travelers? While there’s a fee to climb the famous walls, the streets themselves are open to anyone. You can watch tourists and locals from the stairs of St Blaise’s Church, sit on a bench in the picturesque harbor, or gaze down at swimmers at Porporela.
Take in a Titian at the Cathedral of the Assumption
Churches in Dubrovnik display art by local artists and international greats. In the Baroque Cathedral, you can admire the Assumption of Mary, a three-paneled 16th-century masterpiece by Titian above the main altar. The church, like most in the city, is free, though there’s a small fee to enter the attached Treasury.
Other godly highlights include St Ignatius of Loyola Church, where stunning Baroque frescoes fill the main apse, and St Blaise’s Church, with colorful stained glass windows by renowned local painter Ivo Dulčić.
Discover what the ell’s going on with the Orlando Column
Many of the visitors who mill around cafe-packed Luža Sq don’t give the carved column in the middle a second glance. But this 1418 statue of an armored knight was once the city’s focal point. The Orlando Column shows the hero of the Song of Roland, a medieval poem that kicked off the whole idea of chivalry. Orlando was adopted by Dubrovnik as a heroic savior – and his 51.2cm (20.2in) right forearm became the city-state’s basic measurement of length, the “ell”.
Enjoy some free nibbles at Grad Market
The Grad Market adds a splash of vibrant color to the old town stone every morning. Many stalls stock such traditional local sweets as dried figs, arancini (Croatian candied orange peel), and bruštulani mjenduli (candied almonds), and offer a free taste before you buy. Foodies should also venture to the city’s main market in Gruž, which has its own fish market.
Remember the fallen at Sponza Palace
The 1991–92 war that followed the breakup of Yugoslavia left Dubrovnik shattered. Impressive repair work means the city’s scars are hard to spot, but if you look closely around the old town you’ll see damage from shrapnel and bullets, as well as plaques of remembrance. The ornate, 500-year-old Sponza Palace has a free Memorial Room that shows the portraits of the young men and women who died defending Dubrovnik during its seven-month siege.
Sunbathe on the beaches and rocks with the locals
The beaches are nearly impossible to privatize around Dubrovnik, so even the most popular ones, like Banje or Sveti Jakov, have room for beachgoers who prefer to put down a towel instead of renting a lounger. For sunbathing the way locals do it, head to rugged Danče or scenic Šulić; for adrenaline, dive off the rocks on Buža. For family time, venture across town to Lapad Bay, which offers pebbly shores and dramatic sunsets.
Fall in love with Adriatic coral at Clara Stones Jewellery
Visiting the exclusive Clara Stones Jewellery will teach you all about sumptuous red Adriatic coral. The region’s only semiprecious material is known for its shiny scarlet color – yet before craftspeople have their way with the material, it is neither shiny nor red. At the Clara Stones workshop, you can witness the magical transformation first-hand.
Volunteer on a water excursion with Green Sea Safari tours
It’s hard to believe you can take a day trip to the islands around Dubrovnik at no cost – yet with local NGO Green Sea Safari, you’ll pay for the experience in kind, by helping the group clean up remote bits of the coast. After about an hour’s work, it’s break time, as you swim in crystal-clear waters, island-hop, explore watery caves and more. While the NGO relies on donations, these aren’t obligatory.
Enjoy a free guided tour in the off-season
Each November and December (and sometimes through to March), the Dubrovnik Tourism Board throws in a freebie for the town’s low-season visitors. On Saturday mornings, free guided walking tours of the old town are followed by a folk singing and dancing performance on Luža Sq, providing insight into traditions that have nourished this gem of a city for centuries.
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Author: Daniel Fahey
The 15 best things to see and do on St Kitts
Fittingly shaped like a tropical fish, St Kitts packs a lot to see and do in its lush and historical expanse. One of the Caribbean’s best stone forts dominates the north, while a string of beaches dot the south. Distinct mountain ranges – and an extinct volcano – add texture.
Besides the fortress, the island’s other unique attraction is its former sugarcane railroad, now repurposed for sightseeing. St Kitts is a major cruise-ship port, and there’s plenty to fit all budgets, from a free day on a beach to wandering the characterful streets of the main city, Basseterre.
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Whether you’re just here for a day, on a visit from neighboring Nevis or ensconced for a longer stay, you’ll find plenty of extraordinary things to see and do in St Kitts, no matter your style or mood.
Storm Brimstone Hill Fortress National Park
St Kitts is home to one of the best stone fortresses in the western hemisphere. The British laid the first huge, black volcanic stone in 1690. Over the next centuries, the fortress was fought over by the Brits and the French, who occupied it from 1782 to 1794 after an intense siege.
Imagine invaders sailing your way as you revel in the views out to sea. Exhibits detail the harsh lives of soldiers stationed here, and the even harsher lives of the slaves forced to construct the 7ft-thick walls. If you only make one excursion to northern St Kitts, make it this Unesco-recognized fort.
Hit the surf at Frigate Bay North
The Atlantic-facing beach on the isthmus southeast of Basseterre gets pounded by waves from the open ocean for much of the year. The breakers can offer thrilling swimming, although they also demand respect and caution. Offshore reefs moderate the action slightly, but still, this is the beach to come to for pounding surf. Head to the north end away from resorts and condos to escape the crowds.
Party at Frigate Bay South
Easily walked to from its northern neighbor, this beach is better known as the Strip. It’s the focus of raucous tourist action on St Kitts and has a string of beach bars and clubs popular with revelers nearly around the clock. Not as scenic as its northern namesake, few care when they’re limbering up for another drinking contest. The protected waters offer gentle swimming for all ages.
Ride the St Kitts Scenic Railway
Cheerfully billing itself as the “last railway in the West Indies,” this rattling, narrow-gauge train offers a leisurely 18-mile tour around a northern portion of St Kitts. Opened in 1926, the railway once fully circled the main part of the island and allowed intensive sugarcane production to continue until the last crop in 2005.
The trains have unusual double-deck cars with shaded, open-air top decks – an ideal perch for taking in the island’s natural beauty. The circular tours also include a 12-mile portion by bus that returns you to the terminal near the airport.
Surmount Mt Liamuiga
Views across St Kitts and on to nearby Nevis and even more distant Antigua are among the rewards for climbing Mt Liamuiga, the extinct 3792ft (1156m) volcano that looms over the island. The 2.5-mile (4km), 2½-hour trek to the top – the first two-thirds of which is mostly through shady, dense rainforest – is a popular excursion for athletic visitors.
The final ascent is the real challenge, with plenty of boulders and tree roots to navigate on the steep trail. Besides the sweeping views across the sea, the summit vantage point lets you peer down into the deep crater, which has a seasonal lake and active fumaroles. Treks begin in Newton Ground, and the services of a guide are highly recommended.
Experience history at Romney Manor
Few tours circle the north of the island without a pause at Romney Manor, which offers an intriguing mix of old and new attractions. The historic part of this lushly landscaped site is the partial ruin of the Wingfield Estate sugar plantation.
Dating to the 17th century, the manor house and bell tower were the hubs of a large estate that grew rich off the forced labor of hundreds of slaves. The intriguing gardens feature plants first planted in this era. A restored manor house is now home to the well-known Caribelle Batik workshop, where all manner of textiles are created using techniques imported from Indonesia.
Honor the past at Bloody Point
The French and English battled for supremacy in the Caribbean for more than 200 years; however, the two historic rivals combined forces in 1626, when the Indigenous Carib people on St Kitts attacked the European colonists. More than 2000 Caribs were killed at this bleak, rocky crevice, some 4 miles northwest of Basseterre – hence the name. Signboards lay out the history, and a small concrete bridge offers an ideal perspective for reflection on the conquest of the region.
Tread thoughtfully at Independence Square
The green center of Basseterre is Independence Square. The brightly painted fountain at its center belies its horrific past as the center of the local slave trade – men, women and children kidnapped from Africa were bought and sold here well into the 19th century.
Today the landscaped gardens are a popular gathering spot. Palms soar over the periphery, and in summer, the island’s symbolic trees, poincianas, explode in a scarlet profusion of flowers. Look for bars on the basement windows of the building along the south side of the square; this was one of the fetid dungeons where slaves were held pending sale.
Join the Circus
St Kitts’s small principal city, Basseterre, has an equally diminutive focal point known as the Circus. Although oft-repeated local lore claims it was modeled on London’s Piccadilly Circus, this Circus has little in common with its far more frenetic Commonwealth cousin. Yes, four main roads converge here, but the scale is small and the vibe relaxed.
A Victorian-era artifact, Berkeley Memorial Clock, rises from the center of traffic. Meeting in the shadow of this green-hued, gold-trimmed edifice is a local tradition. Find a seat on the terrace of a café at one of the modest surrounding buildings, which combine elements of island and Georgian style, and enjoy superb people-watching.
Chart the past at the National Museum
The same volcanic limestone blocks used to build structures great and small across St Kitts form the walls of the two-story National Museum in Basseterre, which opened in 1894 as the Treasury Building.
Exhibits here trace the island’s history, from the indigenous Carib people through the slave and plantation era and on to independence in 1983. Look for photographs from the 19th century, which unflinchingly document the lives of the workers in the sugar and rum trades. The human drama across the centuries is particularly astonishing given the island’s small size: just 68 sq miles (176 sq km).
Go local at South Friar’s Bay
This long, south-facing beach is a favorite of the 40,000 residents of St Kitts – the snorkeling is good right off the beach, and the swimming is excellent.
Bars popular with visitors bookend the sand, but along the middle portion you’ll find casual cafes and stalls where people unwind after work, on their days off and always on Sundays. Look for locally caught seafood like grouper served simply right off the grill. The vibe is mellow, friendly and infused with a pulsing soca beat that revolves around limin’ (hanging out, drinking and talking).
Hop a boat for adventure
Both excursion-minded day-trippers from cruise ships and longer-term visitors will see all sorts of offers for waterborne adventures. Some tours include a stop at a beach on nearby Nevis; other excursions are timed to catch the sunset, and some feature a beach barbecue. Boats range in size from small fishing craft right up to large catamarans, where the party never stops – on and off the poop deck.
See Nevis from Cockleshell Beach
Nevis is the other half of this island nation, and its conical shape is best viewed from Cockleshell Beach, on the bay of the same name at the southern tip of St Kitts. The powdery white sand stretches for more than 2 miles (3.2km), and it’s as alluring as any in the Caribbean.
The scene can get frenetic when large cruise ships are in port, so if you prefer a more laid-back scene, pick a less-visited day. Cafes and bars of varying formality and watersports vendors offer myriad ways to enjoy your time here.
Escape to Dieppe Bay Beach
While the beaches at the south end of St Kitts justifiably get all the attention, the cove at Dieppe Bay on the northern tip offers a wonderful escape – at times, it can feel like your own private beach.
Dark, nearly black volcanic sand mixes with strands of lighter colors. The surf is gentle thanks to offshore reefs, and the vibe is the epitome of mellow, as the small village is quiet and almost tourist-free. A couple of simple cafes offer views that match their fresh local fare in appeal.
Check out the scene underwater
You can go snorkeling and diving in coves all around St Kitts. There are more than 25 dive sites, including several shipwrecks. Coconut Tree Reef is in excellent condition and rewards divers from 40ft to 110ft (12m to 34m) below the surface.
Just off Brimstone Hill, Sandy Point National Marine Park has reefs and sea turtles. Operators organize boat trips that cater to varying skills and interests, from those looking for a selfie with a fish to serious divers ready to explore the depths. Most beaches in the south have vendors with snorkeling gear you can use right offshore. A top choice is White House Bay, which has reefs and shipwrecks.
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Author: Maya Stanton
I’ve been to nearly every NYC rooftop bar: these are the 15 best for summer 2022
New York is skyscraper city, its skyline famously piercing the heavens with tall iconic towers. And yet, it wasn’t until relatively recently when some of those sky-high rooftops were finally converted into bars.
We don’t know what took so long, but at the moment, the rooftop bar scene in New York City is better than ever, with high-quality cocktails being shaken and/or stirred up to go along with awe-inducing views of this eight-million-person metropolis.
With the warm weather comes cool, refreshing cocktails, and why stick to the street to imbibe them on a hot summer evening? Reach for the rooftops and that frozen margarita or chilled negroni will taste a lot better with the view.
Here are the 15 best rooftop bars in New York City.
Best for plane watching: TWA Pool Bar
You’re free to move about the bar at this singular rooftop watering hole at the TWA Hotel at John F. Kennedy International Airport. Watch the planes land and take off, trying to guess where in the world the destination might be, while sipping on aviation-themed cocktails like Jet Fuel, Vodka is My Co-Pilot, Control Tour Sour and Mile-High Margarita. Just don’t fall into the bar’s infinity pool after imbibing too many rum-based Floatation Devices—otherwise, you may need a real-life floatation device.
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Best for drinking in a garden with a view: Gallow Green
Set above the McKittrick Hotel, famous for housing the interactive performance “Sleep No More,” Gallow Green is a verdant and lively spot that offers frozen rosé/vodka drinks and margarita flights, as well as an array of classic cocktails to go along with the views over Chelsea rooftops and the High Line.
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Best for gawking at the Manhattan skyline without being in Manhattan: Bar Blondeau
It’s only six floors up, but Bar Blondeau, located atop the Wythe Hotel in Williamsburg, Brooklyn, offers a stunning view of Manhattan from across the East River. The culinary team from nearby French-Canadian hit Chez Ma Tante took over the kitchen in 2021 and turned the space into a Gallic-leaning bar. With a view like this, the food doesn’t have to be so good, but it is here.
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Best for drinking inventive cocktails amidst antiques: Night of Joy
This charming, antique-loaded bar is only a few floors above the hipster-crammed streets of Williamsburg, Brooklyn, but what it lacks in altitude it makes up for in ambience. Take a seat on the leafy rooftop deck while sipping one of the many inventive cocktails they make here—a beet and dill vodka concoction, for example, or a bison grass vodka-infused drink with apple juice, a play on the Polish cocktail “Tatanka.” The roof deck also has a frozen margarita machine.
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Best for all-year-round rooftop drinking: Jimmy SoHo
Set 18 floors up in the ModernHaus SoHo hotel, Jimmy provides perfect views of the cast-iron-clad buildings that flank the cobblestone streets off SoHo. Lounge on the outdoor terrace while sipping a refreshing tequila-spiked mango slush or a strawberry-flavored Moscow mule. When it’s colder, head indoors where leather furniture, a fireplace and cocktail list gets warmer and autumnal.
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Best for the Art Deco enthusiast: Ophelia
Built in 1928 in what was once a women’s-only hotel, Ophelia is about as classic New York City as they come. The Art Nouveau stylings, tall ornate cathedral windows and views of the east side Manhattan skyline from 26 floors above the street all make for an ideal venue for drinking a dirty martini, a Manhattan or one of the 14 signature cocktails that are shaken up here nightly. And if all that doesn’t make you feel like you’re king off the hill, A number one, then there’s this little fact: Frank Sinatra used to hang out here.
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Best for a pre- or post-dinner drink: Overstory
Sixty-four floors up, Overstory is brought to you by the people who gave us Saga, the elegant restaurant one floor down, and Crown Shy, the elegant restaurant on the ground floor of this Downtown Manhattan skyscraper. Quaff an expertly made signature cocktail—the 212, with whisky, vermouth, cocoa nibs, Amaro and black pear, is great—or sip a classic libation and enjoy watching the verve and the sparkle of the city below. Overstory recently won Michter’s Art of Hospitality Award, voted by 220 members of North America’s 50 Best Bars Academy.
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Best for Asian-inspired drinks and views of Chinatown: The Crown
Crowned atop the 50 Bowery hotel, this 21st-floor bar in Chinatown has an expansive roof deck with stunning views of the Brooklyn and Manhattan Bridges—the ideal spot for nibbling on excellent pastrami-stuffed steamed buns and veggie spring rolls in between sips from that lychee martini.
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Best for feeling like you’re in Havana: Azul Rooftop
It’s like Havana-on-the-Hudson at Azul, a 200-seat, 20-story-high SoHo rooftop bar that’s bedecked with palm trees, reclaimed wood tables and teal accents where you can nurse mojitos, graze on a pork-loaded Cuban sandwich, and listen to Afro-Cuban jazz, mambo and rumba all night.
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Best for rocking out with the views: RT60
The servers at this 34th-floor bar sport name tags that also include their favorite bad or musical artists. You might see Depeche Mode, Prince or Led Zeppelin and it ends up becoming a conversation starter. No surprise that RT60 sits atop the new Hard Rock Hotel near Times Square. You won’t find any rock star memorabilia on the outdoor terrace; just views of the surrounding towers, plates of snacks like hummus and sliders, and nicely made cocktails. The in-house Yankees-themed NYY Steak, while not on the roof, is a delicious place to retreat to when the stomach starts to rumble again.
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Best for feeling like you’re at a backyard party: The Ready
Located atop the Moxy in the East Village, the rooftop bar has a raucous vibe, like you just arrived, mid-party, at a friend’s backyard beer-laden bash—and if that friend had, by chance, a retractable roof and tableside coolers filled with cans of beer and bottles of wine. If you feel like starting early, the happy hour deal is a good one: $5 margaritas and $1 tacos Wednesday to Friday from 4 to 6pm and Saturday and Sunday from noon to 3pm. If you want something more substantial, head downstairs to the in-house eatery Cathedrale.
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Best reason to go to Roosevelt Island: Panorama Room
Roosevelt Island attracts visitors for the fun cable car that floats between Second Avenue and E. 59th Street and the middle of the island. Many people get off, look around to see a somewhat drab neighborhood, and then get back on cable car to Manhattan. A few others may walk to the southern tip of the island to gawk at the 19th-century ruined hospital once used for quarantining smallpox sufferers. But now there’s another, more cheery reason to come: the Panorama Room, located 18 floors atop the Graduate hotel, lives up to its name with all-encompassing views of the east side of Manhattan, Queens, and parts of Brooklyn. Plus, there are excellent food offerings marrying low and high-brow delights, including caviar nachos and truffle fries.
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Best for cocktails that are good enough to rival the view: Skylark
With 360-degree views of surrounding skyscrapers plus a riot of dazzling colors across the Hudson River at sunset, Skylark provides visual fireworks to go with a seasonal cocktail menu of well-shaken potent drinks. The libations here are good enough to make you think the person handing it to you should be a hipster wearing old-timey suspenders and have a waxed mustache. From 30 floors up, the bi-level rooftop bar in Midtown is tastefully designed with Art Deco touches and some semi-private nooks, making it an ideal date spot.
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Best for feeling like you’re at a Mexican luau: Terrace on 7
Located in the Dominick Hotel in west SoHo, the seventh-floor terrace bar often changes each year, starting in May. For the past two years, it’s been El Ta’koy, a restaurant and lounge that has other outlets in Chicago and London that fuses ingredients from Mexico and Hawaii to create tantalizing pork-and-pineapple tacos and ahi poke tuna nachos, as well as plenty of fruit-based boozy concoctions to go with the views of SoHo.
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Best for sipping a martini in the sky: Daintree
Thirty floors up in Midtown—just two blocks south of Bryant Park—sits Daintree, a sophisticated plant-laden lounge (with indoor and outdoor seating options) that puts its boozy focus on one particular drink: the martini. Choose between five options or scan down to the “Everything Else” part of the menu where you can opt for one of a handful of strong mezcal- and rum-based libations—potent enough that after a few you might squint at the Empire State Building and ask: is there a giant gorilla on that building?
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Author: Maya Stanton
Airplane food has not recovered from the pandemic – here’s why
After passengers share photos online of their unappetizing inflight meals, we asked aviation journalist John Walton how airplane food has changed compared with pre-pandemic times, whether there are fewer choices, and how meal standards are evolving.
What’s up with airline food? The classic standup line was echoing through my mind as I scrolled with a grimace as pictures of a particularly rough-looking airline meal, notionally a pasta bolognese, went viral on social media recently, and it wasn’t a one-off.
A new low in airline food
Can’t even describe how bad it is and im not even fussy pic.twitter.com/wbhgCboehE— Pat (@patphelan) May 11, 2022
This time it was on a transatlantic flight aboard US-Europe powerhouse Aer Lingus, which connects a dozen North American cities with European destinations over its Dublin hub.
And it’s not the only one recently: easyJet’s sandwich provider seems to be having a bad time of things too. I understand why this dip in standards is happening — airlines and caterers are having a rough go of it at the moment as they come back from the COVID-19 pandemic — but from the traveler’s perspective, that’s not much of an excuse.
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If an airline says you’ll get a meal, you should — but COVID effects are still lingering
People have a right to expect a decent meal if airlines sell it to them as part of a ticket. But that’s complicated right now. During the pandemic, pretty much every airline cut back on inflight food, and certainly on inflight service. Shorter flights often saw all meal service removed, or passengers handed a to-go bag with something like a sandwich and a little bottle of water. Longer flights usually included options like a chilled salad or, again, a sandwich, with reduced crew contact.
Every airline is bringing back its service from the pandemic at a different rate, and each of them is certainly considering what their particular “new normal” is going to be when it comes to food. That’s even more so for the full-service airlines rather than low-cost carriers.
A spokesperson from Lufthansa, one of United’s transatlantic joint venture partners, tells us that “as the pandemic fades, our meal and service offerings are currently being successively upgraded in all classes. Before the pandemic, there was a choice of meal (non-vegetarian/vegetarian) in economy class on long-haul routes. Currently, since the beginning of the pandemic, there is only one vegetarian main course.”
At Aer Lingus, a spokesperson says that the airline “offers customers traveling with us to North America with a complimentary meal. We serve a selection of meat and vegetarian dishes, such as beef bolognese with pasta, chicken with pepper sauce & rice and vegetarian chili with potato wedges, as well as special dietary options along with complimentary soft drinks and water. A full bar with alcoholic beverages and snacks from our Bia range is available to purchase throughout the flight.”
On longer flights, like the US west coast, the airline offers ice cream as a “mid-flight treat” plus a hot snack. On shorter flights, mainly the US east coast, it’s a wrap (which didn’t exactly look generous) with a “sweet treat” plus tea and coffee, with some free snacks also available.
“During COVID,” the airline explains, “the meal and drinks service were combined to reduce touchpoints. We are now getting back to our pre-Covid meal service by separating out our bar and meal service and are working towards including a greater choice of vegetarian dishes and implementing more sustainable packaging.”
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Airlines don’t make money from serving you food… unless you’re paying extra on board
As a person with some common sense who travels with their eyes open, your initial thought might be that the changes are all about saving money. To a fairly large extent, that’s true. For most airlines, food is basically a “hygiene factor”, something that they have to offer but don’t make money on.
Most airlines that are for-profit companies — rather than government-run exercises in raising their national image overseas — are in the same boat: they know that very, very few people will choose an airline based on anything other than price and schedule, and certainly not on food. So, their incentive (unspoken or spoken) is to keep food slightly above the level of “riot on the plane”.
No airline or caterer we asked was willing to talk to us on the record about the extent to which airlines are cutting costs on food at the moment: “pricing is a confidential topic in our industry,” explains a spokesperson from caterers LSG Group, “but hybrid models become more interesting as carriers try to create a new source of revenue by selling food on board”.
That’s a model that a growing number of airlines are using, offering a basic meal plus the option to buy something more onboard. Going back to the Aer Lingus example, take a look at the PDF of their current Bia menu, which highlights the range of chocolates, cake, biscuits and bars plus porridge, hummus and savory snacks for sale on transatlantic flights in addition to the meal.
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The problem for this airline is that what it’s providing isn’t really matching what it’s advertising. Take a look at the meals it’s showing on its website, with the large pieces of roasted chicken, substantial amounts of veg, a hearty helping of potatoes and a colorful salad side that’s practically overflowing, and then compare with that unattractive pasta dish on Twitter.
There’s always a bit of a disconnect between advertising and reality, as anyone who’s ever ordered anything from a fast-food chain will know, but this seems to be taking it a bit far.
Again, it’s by no means the only one here, but airlines need to be upfront with passengers about what they’re going to get: don’t promise something nice and then fail to deliver it.
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Airlines themselves are trying to figure out the future of airline food
Many airlines are also looking at the post-pandemic situation as something of a “great reset” of those passenger expectations. Whenever you see an airline’s food standards dropping, it’s not overly paranoid to wonder if they are looking to move to paid food and dipping their standards to be able to say “77% of passengers say they want better food, so we’re giving it to them with our new buy-on-board service!”.
But in a lot of different ways, post-COVID cost-cutting— and indeed other problems — might not immediately be visible.
As one example, pretty much everyone is having problems with staffing right now, and that’s certainly true for airline catering companies, airport catering staff and other workers in the complex chain of getting fresh food to your plane.
As another example, many airlines are still operating with fewer flight attendants on the aircraft than pre-pandemic, as a way to try to get themselves back in the financial black. That means there’s a balance between bringing back more complete meals, which might take more time to reheat and serve, and managing to serve everyone on the plane quickly.
Will we get back to the days of celebrity chef partnerships — even for economy food — and expansive menus? Maybe, but it’ll probably look more like the Tom Kerridge-branded sandwiches that British Airways offers for sale than the Heston Blumenthal-partnered shepherd’s pie it offered ten years ago.
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Author: Zachary Laks
Your guide to museum hopping in Reykjavík
From viking history to the world’s first indoor ice cave, Reykjavík’s museums are sure to satisfy curious souls, entertain people of all ages and cater to art lovers of all kind. Make sure to explore street art and outdoor sculptures – one of which doubles as a footbath with a view – and make the most of discount cards, such as the Reykjavík City Card (note that many museums have free admission for children and discounts for students and senior citizens). If you’re visiting in early June 2022, don’t miss the biennial Reykjavík Arts Festival.
Perlan: Best for nature exhibitions
Perlan, the glass dome overlooking the city from forested Öskjuhlíð, has traditionally attracted visitors with its panoramic view and the rotating restaurant on the top floor. Now they’ve added an additional attraction – Iceland’s only Nature Exploratorium.
The “Wonders of Iceland” exhibition explains the science behind the country’s natural phenomena as you explore them with all your senses. The highlight is surely the 328ft- (100m-) long authentic “Ice Cave” made with 350 tons of snow, the first of its kind in the world. You can also learn all about Iceland’s fiery volcanoes, melting glaciers, diverse plant and animal life – and don’t forget the awe-inspiring northern lights planetarium show.
Feeling daredevilish? Complete your visit with a woosh on the zipline from the viewing platform (open in summer).
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Árbær Open Air Museum: Best for living history
Ever wondered what Reykjavík looked like at its infancy in the late 18th century? Find the answer at Árbær Open Air Museum – one of the five Reykjavík City Museums.
Árbær itself is an old turf farm and church which has stood in that location for centuries. Around the middle of the last century, as Reykjavík developed, traditional houses were moved from downtown to Árbær where they have since been preserved with their original interiors and furniture and serving as a kind of time warp for curious visitors. Staff is dressed in period clothing and host demonstrations like traditional haymaking and folk dances.
Whales of Iceland: Best for… whales
Unsurprisingly, this museum is all about whales. Twenty-three life-sized models of the all whale species found in the waters around Iceland are suspended from the ceiling, creating the illusion of being underwater in close encounter with these giants of the deep. For an even more realistic experience, try the VR headset. Learn all about these fascinating creatures via an interactive display, and listen to their mesmerizing sounds.
This museum is best enjoyed in combination with a whale watching tour.
The House of Collections: Best for Icelandic art history
The stately white building on Hverfisgata, near the center of town, was built in 1909 as the first purposefully built museum in Iceland to facilitate the National Library, National Archives and National Museum. Now known as the House of Collections, it’s part of the National Gallery, exhibiting key works and shedding light on Icelandic art history.
Also visit the National Gallery and Home of an Artist, painter Ásgrímur Jónsson’s house, on the same ticket.
Saga Museum: Best for Vikings
Do you want to face a blood-thirsty Viking warrior? Visit the incredibly life-like wax figures at the Saga Museum that represent important characters from different periods of Icelandic history. An audio guide will lead you through the different scenes, from the original settlers – Irish monks – to the reformation. Most of the scenes represent the Commonwealth Era, characters and events described in the sagas, including the Battle at Örlygsstaðir from Sturlunga saga and Freydís Eiríksdóttir standoff from Eiríks saga rauða.
Afterwards, have your picture taking in Viking gear while swinging a sword. By then you’ve probably worked up an appetite, so check out adjacent restaurant Matur og drykkur.
Ásmundarsafn: Best for sculptures
In beautiful Laugardalur valley stands a futuristic white dome surrounded by trees and massive sculptures. This is sculptor Ásmundur Sveinsson’s (1893-1982) former home and studio, now part of Reykjavík Art Museum. Exploring the sculpture garden with children is great fun for they are permitted to climb the statues.
Discover the work of this pioneer of Icelandic sculpture, whose abstract art – inspired by daily life, folklore and sagas – was met with some criticism at first but his art is now embraced by all. A famous example is “The Water Carrier” (1937) which for decades was not considered beautiful enough to be placed in the city center and was finally moved to the location it was designed for, the corner of Lækjargata and Bankastræti, in 2011.
Buy a ticket that also grants access to Kjarvalsstaðir and Hafnarhús.
Reykjavík Maritime Museum: Best for fishing history
Iceland is first and foremost a fishing nation. The Reykjavík Maritime Museum – one of the five Reykjavík City Museums – in the hip Grandi district, traces the capital’s 150 history of fisheries and provides an insight into the nation’s often dramatic relationship with the sea. Make sure to board cruise guard vessel Óðinn and learn about the Cod Wars.
If you’re visiting in early June 2022, take part in the Fishermen’s Day celebrations on June 3–5.
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Author: Sarah Stocking
10 of the best places to visit in Finland: from Helsinki cool to the frozen wilds of Lapland
Finland moves to its own Nordic beat. This land of geographical and climatic extremes is a land of possibility. A land on the final frontiers of the imagination and a source endless fascination: whether you are flying across the frozen tundra behind a team of yapping huskies in Lapland, with the northern lights swooping overhead, paddling from island to forested island in the Lakeland, with rare Saimaa ringed seals bobbing alongside your kayak, or leaping headfirst into Helsinki’s offbeat design scene.
There’s so much nature, so much culture, so much otherness here that you could keep returning forever more and still be surprised. Here’s our rundown of the 10 best places to visit in Finland.
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Helsinki is effortlessly cool
Dipping its toes into the brilliant blue Baltic, Helsinki has a generous pinch of everything that makes Finland so special: cutting-edge design, elegant art nouveau villas, galleries brimming with contemporary art, market halls singing of seasonal bounty, and restaurants riffing modern on foraged flavors. There are few capital cities that swing so effortlessly between the urban and the outdoors, with glorious forests, islands and beaches just a walk, pedal, paddle or ferry ride away. And if locals seem remarkably relaxed, you can thank saunas like Löyly Sauna, where you can steam before leaping into the sea (through an ice hole in winter).
You’re bound to find your own favorites, but unmissables include Unesco World Heritage Suomenlinna, a magnificent mid-18th century island fortress, the boutique and workshop-filled Design District and the picnic-perfect Esplanadi park. Put Kiasma for contemporary exhibitions and the palatial, neo-Renaissance Ateneum for Finnish art (including compelling frescoes of the national epic, Kalevala) at the top of your museum wish list. Home to the Helsinki Philharmonic Orchestra, the glass-and-copper Musiikkitalo should be your first choice for high-caliber classical concerts and gigs.
As sunset bruises the sky above the Baltic, book a table at intimate, candlelit, Michelin-starred Demo, where Finnish cuisine is elevated to a new gourmet level in dishes like king crab with nettle pesto, and blackcurrant and liquorice-leaf marinated Åland lamb.
Rovaniemi is the capital of Finnish Lapland
Tossing you in at the Arctic deep end, Rovaniemi, is Lapland in overdrive. Granted, you won’t have it to yourself – come Christmas time the city heaves with Santa groupies – but choose the shoulder season to visit and factor in time in the quieter surrounds and you’ll have a ball.
First up on your wish list is likely to be a visit to Santa and his gingerbread-baking elves in the blingy Santa Claus Village, atop the Arctic Circle, and Santapark. But this is really just the tip of the iceberg. Outside there’s scenery straight out of a snowglobe and a million and one ways to explore it: by reindeer-drawn sleigh, snowmobile, dogsled or on snowshoes. You can float in an icy lake spellbound by the northern lights arcing and swaying above, go ice fishing, or stay in a snow hotel or glass igloo. You name the Nordic fun – it’s here.
There’s a flurry of culture too in the form of Arktikum museum, zooming in on Lapland, Sámi culture and the history of Rovaniemi, and providing a fascinating primer on Arctic wildlife.
Tampere is a scenic city with creative energy
Scenically clasped between two lakes, Tampere fizzes with life and creative energy. The Tammerkoski rapids flow through the heart of the city, past the striking red brick facades of revamped fabric mills and industrial buildings now harboring museums, shops, bars and cafes. And with hiking trails, summer cottages, lake cruises and Finland’s oldest public sauna, Rajaportin, right on its doorstep, it’s never a toss up between culture and nature.
Sight-wise, you’ll want to tick off Amurin Työläismuseokortteli, where wooden houses take an insightful peek into workers’ lives from 1882 to 1973, and glass-and-steel Vapriikki, an eclectic exhibition space in the renovated Tampella textile mill. Tampere’s cathedral, Tuomiokirkko, is a whimsical vision of National Romantic art nouveau architecture. And kids (and lovers of cult trolls) go crazy for the Moomimuseo.
Tampere has one of Finland’s hottest food and nightlife scenes, too. Hit the kauppahalli (covered market) for a feast of fish, cheese, meat and pastries. Here you can try the city’s speciality, mustamakkara, blood sausage with lingonberry jam. In summer, there’s always a festival on, but year-round you’ll find live music at artsy Telakka.
Ylläs is an uncrowded Lapland resort
Folk from more mountainous lands may scoff at the idea of skiing in Ylläs, whose eponymous fell reaches a modest 718m (2355ft), but frankly they are missing a trick. This cute little resort in Lapland, 150km (93 miles) north of the Arctic Circle, has the kind of uncrowded slopes and fresh, downy powder other countries can only dream of. Throw in rime-frosted forests, views out across frozen tundra and the northern lights dancing in night skies, and it is the full on Narnia package.
The skiing scene here is delightfully low key, with pristine snow and 63km (39 miles) of downhill slopes to pound, plus plenty of off piste and cross-country tracks to glide along. And then there’s the clincher: the world’s only sauna gondola, where you can strip off and sweat as you float above the winter wonderland.
Åland Islands is a top summer destination
Dropped into the piercing blue Baltic Sea off the country’s southwest coast, the Åland Archipelago is the summertime Finnish fantasy. Bridges and ferries skip across to one sleepy, forested island to the next (there are 6500 islands and islets in total, but some are little more than nameless specks of red granite). The islands move to their own gentle rhythm, with days spent pedaling or hiking to castle ruins, windmills and beaches, or kayaking to remote islets, where you might spot an elk family swimming from island to island, see a sea-eagle soar overhead, or paddle alongside seals.
By night, it’s back to the summer cottage (many with their own boats and saunas) or campsite for an evening around a crackling campfire under starry skies. The remoter you go to the outer isles, the more magical it gets.
Piece together your own island-hopping itinerary. RO-NO Rent in Mariehamn can sort you out with bikes, canoes and small boats that don’t require a license, or rent a kayak or paddleboard at Paddelboden.
Kuopio is a cultured Lakeland city
If you’re seeking a bit of urban buzz before dipping an oar into the waters of Finnish Lakeland, Kuopio, dreamily hugging the shores of Lake Kallavesi delivers. The views out across sapphire waters, forested islands and skerries are an uplifting prelude to this cultured little city. Get your bearings over morning coffee in the revolving restaurant at the top of Puijon Torni. From there, you can dive into Finnish art at bank-turned-gallery Kuopion Taidemuseo and local history in Kuopion Museo, lodged in a castle-like art nouveau mansion.
One look at the sun burnishing the lakes and you’ll be itching to head outdoors to hike in spruce forests, hang out in beer gardens (and, of course, sample the famous local cloudberry liqueur), or cruise and kayak the waters. A steam and lake swim at the city’s huge, fabulously rustic smoke sauna, Jätkänkämppä, is perfect for unwinding at the end of a mellow summer day.
Savonlinna is a forested gateway to national parks
All is forest and water, green and blue in pretty Savolinna, embedded in Finnish Lakeland near the Russian border. Necklaced by islands and topped off by a turreted 15th-century stunner of a castle, Olavinlinna, the town wins hearts on looks alone. But this is also one of Finland’s cultural heavyweights as the host of the country’s most revered festival, July’s Savonlinna Opera Festival, held in the castle’s covered courtyard. Book well in advance to snag tickets to see the town at its aria-singing, life-loving best.
The beauty of basing yourself here is that you are but a splash away from some of Finland’s most serene and enchanting lake escapes: Linnansaari and Kolovesi national parks. The only way to get a true sense of their loveliness is to hire a kayak or canoe and go paddle camping. As you float past cliffs, caves and pine forests, keep a sharp eye out for otters, ospreys and one of the world’s rarest seals: the mottled, big-eyed Saimaa ringed seal. If you want to coo over their fur ball pups, come in spring.
Inari is home to indigenous Sámi culture
Whether you glimpse its forest rimmed under the glow of the midnight sun or blanketed in snow and illuminated by the northern lights, Inari makes you catch your breath. This tiny speck of a village peers out across Lapland’s largest lake, island-speckled Inarijärvi, 300km (187 miles) north of the Arctic Circle. And it’s here that the pulse of the indigenous Sámi beats strongest.
The phenomenal Siida museum immerses you in Sámi culture, lending insight into their reindeer-herding traditions and Lapland’s unique ecology. Equally riveting is the architecturally striking Sajos, Sámi parliament, with a floor plan designed on a reindeer hide. But you’ll want to go deeper: perhaps taking a snowmobile out to Petri Mattus’ reindeer farm in winter, or seeing the calving and earmarking in May. There’s a lot happening events-wise here, too: from July’s traditional Inari Weeks festivities to the grand finale of reindeer-racing season at the King’s Cup in late March.
Regardless of season, round out the day with foraged flavors and views of the Jäniskoski rapids at Aanaar, where you can dig into the likes of Arctic king crab with nettle butter, smoked reindeer heart with pine-needle vinaigrette, and cloudberry sorbet.
Inari is also a terrific springboard for forays into the remote fells, forests and gold-panning rivers of Lemmenjoki National Park and canyon-riven Kevo Strict Nature Reserve.
Turku has an exciting food and culture scene
Looking longingly out across the piercing blue Baltic, south coast Turku (in Swedish: Åbo) is an absolute knockout. This was the capital until 1812, when Tsar Alexander I of Russia decided to up sticks to Helsinki. A rich historic and cultural legacy is imprinted on the city to this day in the form of experimental art, upbeat music festivals and one of the country’s most exciting food scenes.
You’ll want to factor in time for a spin of Aboa Vetus & Ars Nova, a museum that whisks you underground to Old Turku’s medieval streets, then pings you back into the present with contemporary art upstairs. Finland’s largest fortress, Turun Linna, rewinds to the 13th century with its dungeons and lavish banqueting halls. And Turun Tuomiokirkko, the “mother church” of Finland’s Lutheran faith, is a Gothic vision in red brick. Visit during the silent hour (9-10am) as the morning sun slants through the windows to see it at its most atmospheric.
Summer turns the heat up a notch with music festivals like Turku Jazz and Ruisrock, boat bars on the south bank of the Aura River and parties fuelled by local craft beers. And when you tire of the city, you can hop on a ferry or kayak across to an island of your choice.
Urho Kekkonen National Park has lots of Finnish wildlife
It’s wild out there… Snuggling up close to the Russian border in the north of Lapland, the Urho Kekkonen National Park has an extraordinary portfolio of all the landscapes you come to the Arctic to see: old-growth pine, spruce and birch forests, high fells (including Korvatunturi, sacred among Finns as the original home of Santa), aapa mires and dazzlingly clear rivers and creeks. The park reels off the “greatest hits” of Finnish wildlife. With luck, patience and a decent pair of binoculars, you might see elk, reindeer, snow grouse, Arctic foxes and golden eagles. Brown bears, wolverines, wolves and lynx are far more elusive, but just knowing they are here adds an extra level of thrill.
Hiking here takes you through some soul-stirring landscapes, and there’s always a wilderness hut with a campfire and sauna where you can rest up after a long day’s trek. The Sámi town of Saariselkä is one of the most accessible gateways to the park.
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Author: Daniel Fahey
Croatia on a budget: how to save on accommodation, attractions, and just about everything else
As more travelers discover the delights of Croatia, prices have been creeping upwards in keeping with the country’s steadily growing popularity. You’ll find more luxury hotels than ever springing up at a rapid pace, particularly in some of the upmarket resorts along the Adriatic coast and on a few of the islands. At the same time, however, there’s been a surge in private apartments and family-run guesthouses, which makes it more affordable to visit Croatia if you’re on a budget.
One of the biggest expenses will be your flights to Croatia, which can rise to mind-boggling levels as soon as the summer season approaches. But once you arrive, it’ll be surprisingly easy to travel around. Here’s how to get the most out of Croatia when money is tight.
When booking flights, plan ahead and be flexible
From June onwards, flights to Split start to soar. No wonder, as it’s the gateway to some of Croatia’s most desirable islands, including Hvar, Brač and Vis. As prices rise to meet demand, you might want to try different airports, such as Zagreb, Zadar or Rijeka (which is actually on the island of Krk).
Buses with Arriva from Zagreb to Zadar cost as little as 95 kuna (US$14), and with Croatia Bus you can pay 180 kuna ($27) for a single from Zagreb to Split. There’s also the option to fly into neighboring countries – Ljubljana in Slovenia, Budapest in Hungary or Trieste in Italy – and rent a car.
Look beyond the summer months
High season in Croatia – July and August, and sometimes the second half of June – means high prices. Accommodation will be more expensive, and many attractions raise their prices. Compare entrance fees to Plitvice Lakes National Park from June to September – at 300 kuna ($44) – to those in April, May or October, at 180 kuna ($26). Better yet, come in the winter when Plitvice becomes a snowy magical place, and it costs only 80 kuna ($12).
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Widen the net to save on accommodation
While it’s tempting to stay in the center of town, it can often come at a premium. You might have to walk 15 or 20 minutes from the center to find cheaper accommodation, but it can be worth the money saved. Dubrovnik is a good example: Rather than stay in the Old Town or just outside the city walls, look further out towards Gruž or Babin Kuk, both of which are easily reached by bus from the Old Town.
Think about swapping a hotel room for an apartment
In recent years, there’s been a mushrooming of private apartments in Croatia to cater for growing demand. You’ll certainly save on the cost of food if you can do self-catering, and some apartments offer the use of a shared barbecue. Others have other useful free services such as bikes you can borrow.
Discover Croatia’s rail network
It does have its limitations, but Croatia’s national railway company, HŽPP, is an affordable way to get around parts of the country. The main snag is that the network could be more extensive. Trains run from Zagreb to Split, but not further south towards Dubrovnik, although the regions around Zagreb and the north are better serviced. Fares are reasonably priced: for example, a return from Zagreb to Split costs 199 kuna (US$28).
Get to know the national bus networks
If Croatia’s rail network is limited, the same can’t be said for the buses – particularly along the Adriatic coast. The only problem is trying to find the service you need among all the different companies providing everything from long-distance travel to tourist coaches. Arriva is a good place to start, as it also includes international routes. Check the websites of the main railway stations, including Split and Zagreb, to get timetables and tickets.
Use the city buses
Croatia’s urban buses can be astonishingly cheap, even in the capital Zagreb, where a ticket can cost as little as 4 kuna (US$0.60). Generally, tickets are a few kuna cheaper if you buy them from kiosks rather than the driver, who will take only cash. If you plan multiple journeys in the course of a day, a daily ticket can be – but not always – cheaper.
Make the most of island ferries
With a bit of planning, you can travel to Croatia’s inhabited islands easily and affordably, both from the mainland and between islands. The national ferry operator, Jadrolinija, runs car ferries as well as passenger-only catamarans. Catamarans are faster, but sometimes can be marginally more expensive, particularly in July and August. A ferry from Split to Hvar costs 47 kuna (US$6.80), yet a catamaran would be 55 kuna (US$8).
Look out for unexpected restaurant expenses
Croatia’s seafood is superb, and in many places, you pay for that high quality. But if you’re on a budget, you might want to pass on the grilled fish that many restaurants sell by the kilo. You won’t know the exact price until the bill comes, and it can be an unpleasant surprise. There will be other fish and seafood options on the menu that have a set price, so at least you’ll know what you’re paying.
Also bear in mind that many restaurants automatically charge a couvert – rather like a cover charge – per person, and it usually includes a basket of bread. It shouldn’t be more than about 30 kuna (US$4.30) a head. You could try to wave away the bread and insist not to be charged for it, but this doesn’t always work.
Get into the marenda habit
Marenda is like a Dalmatian version of brunch, a hearty meal eaten before noon that harks back to the days when people would have been working since very early morning and needed a filling break. Nowadays, you’ll see marenda menus that are served only at lunch and offer some of the cheapest places to eat in Dubrovnik.
Fill up at breakfast with burek
Picked up from a bakery (pekarnica), these filo pastries pies are a cheap and delicious way to kick off the day and keep you going till lunch. Burek can be filled with cheese, spinach (sometimes both) or meat, and taste good cold as a picnic snack.
Don’t be afraid to ask for tap water
Tap water in Croatia is perfectly drinkable, and you can save money as well as the environment by not ordering bottled water. Ask for a glass of obična voda.
Save on attractions by avoiding high season
Many of Croatia’s attractions, including its national parks, have seasonal prices. Krka National Park charges adults 200 kuna (US$29) for July and August, but only 110 kuna (US$16) from April to June and September to October.
Check for student discounts
If you have an up-to-date International Student Card (ISIC), the savings can be huge. Rather than spend 200 kuna (US$29) to walk Dubrovnik’s city walls, you’ll be charged only 50 kuna (US$7.20).
Do your sums before you buy a city pass
While a city pass that offers free entry to certain attractions, free public transport and discounts in shops and restaurants can look good on paper, sometimes you’ll need to spend your entire trip visiting all of the listed attractions before you save any money. The Zagreb Card is an exception, as after three museum visits, you’ve already saved cash – and that’s before you factor in the free transport.
How expensive is Croatia?
Here are a few average daily costs to keep in mind:
- Hostel dorm bed: 250 kuna ($36)
- Basic room for two: 550 kuna ($80)
- Self-catering apartment for two: 700 kuna ($100)
- Public transport ticket: city buses can range from 4 kuna (60¢) to 21 kuna ($3)
- Coffee: 12 kuna ($1.75)
- Sandwich: 30 kuna ($4.30)
- Dinner for two: 500 kuna ($72) for two courses
- Beer at the bar: 30 kuna ($4.30) for a half-liter of Croatian draft beer
- Breakfast slice of burek: 25 kuna ($3.60)
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Charlotte rising: Diverse dishes and creative craft beer tell a unique story
One of the fastest growing cities in the United States, Charlotte has developed a vast array of dining options. Reflecting its diverse population (nearly 20 percent were born outside the country), the flavors of the world have come to the Queen City.
The brewery scene has also exploded in recent years – and each month seems to bring yet another option for beer lovers to the eclectic neighborhoods in and around Charlotte. With enough dining and drinking options to fill a book – or two – here are some of our favorites.
Uptown
Mariposa
Mariposa is one of Uptown Charlotte’s latest luxury dining locations. Executive chef Jonathan Moore delivers an impressive menu inspired by the small mezze plates of the eastern and southern Mediterranean, paired with an inventive cocktail selection. The only ordering mistake you can make is not leaving enough room for the Single Origin Chocolate Mousse dessert.
La Belle Helene
For a French brasserie experience in Charlotte, seek out La Belle Helene. Opulent surroundings and a menu that would satisfy the pickiest Parisian combine for one of the Queen City’s premier dining experiences. Traditional French preparations mark dishes from a crispy porchetta sandwich to chilled Maine lobster and Duck A l’Orange for two.
Blue Blaze Brewing
If you’re in the mood to walk up a thirst, the 1.5-mile Stewart Creek Greenway west of Uptown starts next to Bank of America Stadium and ends at Blue Blaze Brewing. This laid-back taproom offers a wide selection of brews made from locally sourced ingredients – including its namesake Blue Blaze Altbier and Black Blaze Milk Stout – and a seasonal and specialty list perfect for every time of year.
Mert’s Heart and Soul
Southern-inspired comfort food in Uptown Charlotte means Mert’s Heart and Soul. The Soul Roll, a fried wrap filled with veggies and fried chicken, has been featured on the Food Network, and we love the spicy salmon cakes. The restaurant can also call upon two U.S. Presidents for an endorsement – both Barack Obama and Joe Biden have dined here.
The Market at 7th Street
Right next to a light rail stop, the Market at 7th Street prides itself on its connection to the community and the entrepreneurs of Uptown. The non-profit food hall features various walk-up food options including pizza, a raw bar, momos, cupcakes, and waffles – truly something for every taste.
South End
For dining and drinking options, South End has it all. Cuisines from all over the world and an abundance of breweries – all within easy walking distance of each other – deliver a true agony of choice.
Futo Buta
Looking for what might be the best ramen in Charlotte? Futo Buta is located right on the Rail Trail with year-round patio dining – a popular location to watch the world go by. Seating is limited and claimed on a first-come, first-served basis. Once you have your spot – and if you have a taste for spice – order the Buta Bowl, made with chicken and dashi broth, pecan smoked pork belly and duck confit. If you have to wait, it’s worth it.
Copper
Located in a historic South End bungalow, Copper effortlessly combines traditional Indian cuisine with a modern flair. Whether you are familiar with Indian dishes or are exploring them for the first time, prepare to be pleasantly surprised – the staff is great at guiding diners toward a dish they’ll enjoy. The potli samosa with savory and crunchy vegetables and a hot-sweet-sour chutney, and the chicken mirchi-malai with roasted onion-cashew sauce and Kashmiri chili paste should appeal to Indian food novices and experts alike.
Olde Mecklenburg Brewery
The patriarch of the Charlotte beer scene feels like a small patch of Germany in Lower South End (“LoSo”). With every brew at Olde Mecklenburg Brewery remaining faithful to the Bavarian “Reinheitsgebot” (Purity Order), and served in a Bierhalle and Biergarten that would make Munich proud, OMB continues to lead the way in the Charlotte brewery scene.
Sycamore Brewing
Sycamore Brewing has become the place to be on a weekend afternoon. Frequent live music, food trucks, and pop-up markets entice those on the adjacent Rail Trail to pause for a moment. The convivial atmosphere and the quality of beer gets them to stay. Try a Mountain Candy IPA, Southern Girl Blonde Ale, or Special Brownies Chocolate Stout.
Charlotte rising: Why sports fans and thrill seekers flock to the Queen City
NoDa
Named for North Davidson Street that runs through its heart, NoDa is the original artsy capital of Charlotte. Just a couple of light rail stops from Uptown, NoDa has an impressive array of eating and drinking options.
Goodyear House
At the Goodyear House, originally an old mill home dating back to the 1900s, you’ll find chef Chris Coleman – 2019 winner of the Food Network’s Chopped cooking competition. The attention to detail paid to the house’s restoration is reflected in this farm-to-table restaurant’s exquisitely prepared, locally sourced food. Don’t leave without ordering the smoked cashew mac.
Oh My Soul
At Oh My Soul you can enjoy a full plant-based, vegan menu including unique dishes that reflect its owners’ South African heritage. If you get a loaded Gatsby sandwich, you can then choose whether you want it the spicy ‘Durbanite’ way or the ‘Capetonian’ option with crispy fried onion rings. Oh My Soul’s spacious courtyard is a calm and relaxing oasis just a few steps from the North Davidson Street bustle.
Optimist Hall
With a wide-ranging mix of international food options to satisfy any taste – plus a long list of events and ad-hoc attractions – Optimist Hall will definitely put a smile on your face. Multiple vendors provide everything from empañadas to eastern Mediterranean delicacies that can all be enjoyed in the relaxed inside and courtyard seating areas.
NoDa Brewing
Among the earliest entrants to the brewery scene in Charlotte, NoDa Brewing’s impressive range of year-round and seasonal beers is headlined by “Hop Drop N’ Roll,” an IPA that took a gold medal at the 2021 U.S. Open Beer Championship. Come for the award-winning beer, stay for the chill vibes – and the occasional Charlotte Symphony ensemble.
Birdsong Brewing
Birdsong Brewing has developed what is arguably one of the most interesting beer flavors in the Queen City. A mainstay of the menu for many years, its Jalapeño Pale Ale is something you just have to taste. Grab a pint, have a seat and prepare yourself for a great conversation. Tip: try to time your visit for a small-batch THURSty THURSday.
Charlotte rising: Why sports fans and thrill seekers flock to the Queen City
Plaza Midwood
On the east side of Charlotte, Plaza Midwood is known for its casual bars, eclectic shops and restaurants, and brewery options. It also found global fame when Mick Jagger’s 2021 solo visit to the neighborhood’s Thirsty Beaver pub went viral.
Soul Gastrolounge
Among the best places in the city for small plates and craft cocktails is Soul Gastrolounge. Whether you’re looking for a hip celebration, or just some laid-back vibes and fresh bites, you can’t go wrong at this unassuming spot. There should be a rule that diners are not allowed to leave until they’ve tried the pork belly tacos.
Legion Brewing
Legion Brewing has been a part of the Plaza Midwood social scene since 2015. Offering a diverse range of beers – IPA fans must try the Juicy Jay – and an extensive food menu unusual among the city’s breweries, there is always a happy buzz at its original Commonwealth Avenue location.
Resident Culture
Another favorite location for local beer enthusiasts, Resident Culture prides itself on ‘beers brewed with neighborhood funk.’ From mid-March to mid-November, a rain-or-shine Food Truck Friday delivers good food and live music enjoyed with some hop-forward beers. Check out the Vicky Virago Triple Dry Hopped Double India Pale Ale.
Celebrating Charlotte Food
Charlotte Restaurant Week – “The Queen’s Feast” – is a twice-yearly event that showcases the best of the greater Charlotte area dining options. For one week in January and July, dozens of mid- to high-end restaurants offer three-course, $35 prix-fixe menus, providing residents and visitors with a cost-friendly possibility to experience the best of the city’s cuisine.
A Taste of Charlotte (generally scheduled for the last weekend of September) features the favorite menu items of more than 20 local restaurants in a single location. The 2022 event will take place at the Uptown, Truist Field home of the Charlotte Knights.
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Author: Ben Buckner









































