Tag: Destinations

In a series of articles, Smithsonian magazine highlights all that draws our eyes to our nation’s fresh and coastal waters

Take a journey back to your elementary school cafeteria with a visit to the Georgia outpost

For historical accuracy, the 33-year-old Brit wears only the cotton dresses, yak wool coats and hobnail boots that her predecessors would have had

My trip to Lisbon was nearly six years ago, but I can still feel it in my body. I love the way that new places get under your skin and become part of your DNA, not just your memory or your camera roll. I couldn’t get over the food, the architecture, the history, the culture – it made me literally break out into song.

I’ll explain. Our evening began innocently enough: sunset views and drinking cocktails at Park in Bairro Alto, followed by dinner and wine at Taberna da Rua das Flores and a nightcap at a burlesque club. Then it seemed that we should call it a night, so we wandered back to our hotel. As we ambled, we came across a stage that had been set up outside Lisbon City Hall, so naturally, we climbed up and began singing a random mash-up of old show tunes.

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I can’t tell you why we did that – maybe the burlesque? All I know is Lisbon made me need to sing out loud, and celebrate being alive (#Sondheim) and (relatively) young and being in a magical, new (to me) place. 

This is why we travel, no? I spoke with Tiago Filipe, a guide who works with Elsewhere (a Lonely Planet company) crafting custom itineraries for travelers who want the inside track on the best things to do, see, and, perhaps most importantly, eat in Lisboa. We discussed everything he loves about his home city (and country). Take note of his expert food-and-drink recommendations at the end!

Q&A with Elsewhere’s Tiago Filipe

The passion and pride that Tiago Filipe feels for his home is palpable – just talking to him for an hour had me cruising Google Flights and getting tips for my next trip to Portugal.

Where are you from?

I was born and raised in Lisbon. I’ve lived here most of my life.

What made you want to become a guide?

My father was a historian, and we traveled extensively around the country, so I got to know a lot about Portugal. After traveling and traveling, living in Liverpool and Mozambique, the people I’d met along the way started to visit me in Lisbon. So that’s how it began: it was a hobby and grew into a career. Being a proud Portuguese also helps.

What is so special about Lisbon?

I love it. It’s a very beautiful city, but it’s not only that. It’s such a diverse place: the geography, the weather, the beaches. You can be on the coast or in the mountains within 30 minutes. When summer days are longer, I can stop working at six or seven and still have time to go surfing for a couple of hours. I think that’s priceless – it’s truly incredible.

What dishes best define Portuguese cuisine?

That’s a very difficult question. I could give you 30 dishes, and there would still be more. It’s such a small country and yet has an incredibly diverse cuisine – it’s stunning. Some chefs say Portugal has the best fish in the world. We are now in June, the main month of festivities in Portugal.

Grilled sardines are the highlight during this time. We have a number of different seafood stews, like caldeirada, cataplana, massada de peixe, and Açorda de Marisco. And our custard tart – pastel de Belém – is very famous, everyone loves it. It’s probably one of my favorite pastries.

What are some fun sites to see in Lisbon? 

In Belém, visit Jerónimos Monastery. The Old Expo 98 area has all these different thematic gardens, the Ciência Viva (Living Science) Center, the cable car. But the highlight is without a doubt the mind-blowing aquarium, Oceanário. And just walking in Alfama – the narrow and hilly streets and the ambiance of the place.

Is there a day trip or experience near Lisbon you’d recommend?

Visiting the palaces of Sintra. Specifically, Quinta da Regaleira, an estate and palace developed by a Portuguese aristocrat in the 1800s with mystic gardens, a famous spiral well, caves, lakes and tunnels. The Monserrate palace also boasts gorgeous gardens and beautiful architecture, and it’s much less crowded.

When is the best time to visit?

My favorite time of year is October. I also like May – the transition months.

Where do you recommend people stay?

As a guide, I prefer people to stay in hotels because it’s easier for me to control what they’re going to get. Hotels tend to be a bit more hassle-free than Airbnb. I like the Porto Bay properties and the collection of Lisbon Heritage Hotels.

Is there a super touristy thing that one should do?

Get on the yellow tram. It’s a landmark and a highlight of the city. Take it to a high point and walk down, it’s a great way to see the old city.

The best places to eat and drink in Lisbon 

To be in Portugal is to eat. And eat a lot. Here are a few of Tiago’s favorite local spots in Lisbon, and one incredible dish you must travel to the Azores to try.

1. Book an authentic Portuguese restaurant. I like Pinóquio and Rosa da Rua. Both are central and have very Portuguese menus. I also recommend Salsa & Coentros, Dom Feijão, and Ramiro is a classic.

2. Poke around Carnide There are some really good restaurants in this less-trafficked Lisbon neighborhood, including Paço de Carnide and Adega das Gravatas.

3. Listen to live fado. The calm, soft instrumental music is longing and sorrowful. Tasca Bela in Alfama is an old favorite for live fado – and the food is good.

4. Have drinks at Pavilhão Chinês. Not far from Bairro Alto, this bar is in a historic building and decorated like an old curiosity shop. It’s really unusual.

5. Have a meal with ocean views. Enjoying Portugal’s signature seafood dishes is best done by the water at Furnas do Guincho in Cascais or in Sintra at Azenhas do Mar.

6. Go to the Azores for cozido das Furnas. They prepare this meat stew in a pan that is buried underground and naturally heated in the volcanic soil.

 

The Nenana Ice Classic, started in 1917, is a high-stakes guessing game over the date, hour and minute of the ice breakup on the Tanana River

The Fat Tuesday tradition centered around eating fried, filled Polish pastries is celebrated across the Midwest, but especially in Chicago

Thanks to a few horticulturalists with an eye for history, a garden lost to time peeks out from the creeping vines

You may think of the “Big Easy” on Fat Tuesday, but other towns throughout Louisiana and the wider Gulf Coast play host to raucous celebrations

Trips to the 49th state inspired the characters in the writer-illustrator’s latest children’s book “Cozy in Love”

Japan has a reputation as an etiquette-bound place that can be intimidating for first-time visitors. Don’t buy it. The traditions here are no more formal or constricting than in many other destinations around the world. Moreover, most locals are more than willing to help out or give foreign travelers a pass for any perceived faux pas.

As with just about anything in life, expectation management is key. So put your mind at ease with our top tips for smooth traveling in Japan.

1. Book accommodation in advance (and arrive at the right time)

You can probably get a room at a basic business hotel without a reservation in a pinch, but why risk it? Top accommodations can book up weeks or even months in advance, so plan ahead. Particularly busy travel periods include the first week of January, cherry blossom season (late March through April, depending on the destination), “Golden Week” (April 29 to May 5) and August.

You should also keep in mind that smaller inns or ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) often have fixed check-in times outside of which staff won’t be present, and rooms won’t be made up. Coordinate your arrival time in advance.

2. It’s a good idea to pack light for a visit to Japan

Since hotel rooms in Japan tend to be small, especially in cities, there is little room for large suitcases – which can also be a pain to wrangle on public transport. Never a bad idea, packing on the lighter side is especially advisable for Japan.

Note that religious sights such as Buddhist temples and Shintō shrines don’t have dress codes. However, high-end restaurants, bars and clubs sometimes do, but that usually just means no sleeveless shirts or sandals on men.

Keep in mind that you might find yourself sitting on the floor when dining out, which can be uncomfortable in short (or tight) clothing.

3. Buy a data-heavy SIM card at the airport

Count on relying on a substantial mount of data navigating in Japan, so get a data-heavy SIM card at the airport. Japan’s street-address system is notoriously difficult to navigate – even for locals – so smartphones with navigation apps have been a real boon for travelers.

4. Shoes you can easily slip off will make your trip

Comfortable walking shoes are a must. You’ll also likely have to take your shoes off frequently at religious sights, traditional inns and some restaurants – you’ll thank yourself later if you pack shoes that are easy to slip on and off.

Since you’ll be slipping into a pair of communal slippers when you take your own shoes off, many visitors prefer to wear socks.

5. Learn how to use a bidet toilet

Called “washlets,” Japan’s high-tech, electronic bidet toilets will wash and dry your delicate parts with the touch of a button. (Don’t worry about any language barrier; the pictograms on the buttons are easy to understand.)

Other toilet customs in Japan might throw you for a loop. Motion-sensor-activated sound machines in the women’s toilets are intended to conceal, um, sensitive noises. Also expect dedicated toilet slippers in shoes-off establishments.

Note that there is frequently a lack of towels and hand dryers (locals carry small cloths with them for this reason).

6. Come prepared for the weather

Summers in Japan are hot and humid, which can mean a real risk of heatstroke. Carry water with you, and a folding umbrella with UV blocking is useful – and does double duty in case of a sudden shower. Late June is the start of the annual rainy season, when it can rain without end for days; this can last a few weeks or through most of July. 

Rains, as well as punishing winds, are likely again during typhoon season, which runs from September through October (earlier in Okinawa).

Typhoons can cause serious travel disruption; monitor the situation with the Japan Meteorological Agency’s storm and other weather warnings, which are available in English. Winters can get chilly, and Tōhoku and Hokkaidō up north can get huge dumps of snow.

Japan’s ubiquitous convenience stores are handy for weather-related necessities like umbrellas, hats, cooling wipes and pocket warmers.

7. What to do in an earthquake in Japan

Japan is one of the most seismically active places on the planet. While strong earthquakes are rare, minor temblors happen all the time. If this occurs during your time here, stay calm and take your cue from those around you. Head under a table or stand in a doorway if the shaking picks up; strict building codes generally keep harm to a minimum.

Rarer but more dangerous tsunami can follow a significant quake. Should this occur, listen for tsunami warnings and get to higher ground fast if you are near the coast. 

8. Make sure to carry cash…

In rural Japan and at older family businesses in cities, credit cards may not be accepted. It’s wise to assume you’ll need to pay cash at country ryokan and smaller restaurants and shops; stock up when you’re in a town with an ATM (cashpoint). To pay as the Japanese do, place your cash or card in the small tray at the register rather than handing either to the cashier.

9. …But don’t worry about tipping

Though tour guides who regularly take around foreign tourists might expect an extra, Japan has no custom of tipping, and an attempt to add to your bill will more often than not fluster or embarrass staff. In lieu of tipping, some bars and restaurants will charge a flat-rate service fee, usually around ¥300–500 (US$2.50–4.25) per person; others, typically fancy ones, will automatically add a 10% service charge to the bill.

10. Learn the art of queueing in Japan

The Japanese are big on queues, forming neat lines everywhere from check-out counters to train platforms. (Regarding the latter: after the train doors open, it’s everyone for themselves when it comes to scoring a seat.)

11. Stand to the left (or to the right)

Always ride on one side of the escalator – but which side depends on where you are. In Kanto and eastwards, it’s to the left; in Kansai and westwards, it’s to the right. (The dividing point is somewhere just west of Nagoya.) Incidentally, train operators want passengers to stand on both sides of the escalator and refrain from walking altogether, even if commuters have so far shrugged at these guidelines. 

12. Know when the last train leaves

City subways run until 1am at the very latest. If you miss the last train for the night, the alternative is to catch a taxi, which can be expensive. 

13. The morning commute in Tokyo can be intense

For Tokyoites, the morning commute is a contact sport. On weekdays from 7:30am to 9am, millions squeeze into trains across the city, sometimes helped along by station staff who make sure everyone’s packed in. Shinjuku Station, the busiest in the world, sees an average of over 3.5 million commuters daily; there are more than 200 exits leading in and out of the complex.

14. Eating in public is generally a no-no

It’s considered bad form to eat in public, especially while walking. Exceptions include the shinkansen (bullet train) and other reserved-seat limited-express trains, where it is customary to eat a bentō (boxed meal) on board; festivals or market streets with food vendors; picnics; and ice cream.

It’s also okay to take sips from a resealable beverage container, like a water bottle. Elsewhere, other dining etiquette rules apply.

15. Learn some Japanese lingo 

English is widely spoken in cities and around major tourist attractions; in rural areas, though, it can be hit or miss. Some Japanese words that will come in handy when dining out: 

• omori (large portion, often free at ramen stalls)
• okawari (refill) 
• mochikaeri (takeaway) 
• tennai de (eat-in) 
• onegai shimasu (please). Follow up any of your orders or requests with this; for example, if you want tea, say, “O-cha onegai shimasu.” 
• sumimasen (excuse me) 
• arigato gozaimasu (thank you). Because it’s a bit of a mouthful, it’s tempting to shorten it to simply arigato. Think of it as the difference between “thank you” and “thanks” and go for the politer “arigato gozaimasu.”
• toire (toilet; pronounced “to-ee-rey”)