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Author Jan Brett Pans for Creative Gold in Alaska
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15 travel tips (and what not to do) when you’re in Japan
Japan has a reputation as an etiquette-bound place that can be intimidating for first-time visitors. Don’t buy it. The traditions here are no more formal or constricting than in many other destinations around the world. Moreover, most locals are more than willing to help out or give foreign travelers a pass for any perceived faux pas.
As with just about anything in life, expectation management is key. So put your mind at ease with our top tips for smooth traveling in Japan.
1. Book accommodation in advance (and arrive at the right time)
You can probably get a room at a basic business hotel without a reservation in a pinch, but why risk it? Top accommodations can book up weeks or even months in advance, so plan ahead. Particularly busy travel periods include the first week of January, cherry blossom season (late March through April, depending on the destination), “Golden Week” (April 29 to May 5) and August.
You should also keep in mind that smaller inns or ryokan (traditional Japanese inns) often have fixed check-in times outside of which staff won’t be present, and rooms won’t be made up. Coordinate your arrival time in advance.
2. It’s a good idea to pack light for a visit to Japan
Since hotel rooms in Japan tend to be small, especially in cities, there is little room for large suitcases – which can also be a pain to wrangle on public transport. Never a bad idea, packing on the lighter side is especially advisable for Japan.
Note that religious sights such as Buddhist temples and Shintō shrines don’t have dress codes. However, high-end restaurants, bars and clubs sometimes do, but that usually just means no sleeveless shirts or sandals on men.
Keep in mind that you might find yourself sitting on the floor when dining out, which can be uncomfortable in short (or tight) clothing.
3. Buy a data-heavy SIM card at the airport
Count on relying on a substantial mount of data navigating in Japan, so get a data-heavy SIM card at the airport. Japan’s street-address system is notoriously difficult to navigate – even for locals – so smartphones with navigation apps have been a real boon for travelers.
4. Shoes you can easily slip off will make your trip
Comfortable walking shoes are a must. You’ll also likely have to take your shoes off frequently at religious sights, traditional inns and some restaurants – you’ll thank yourself later if you pack shoes that are easy to slip on and off.
Since you’ll be slipping into a pair of communal slippers when you take your own shoes off, many visitors prefer to wear socks.
5. Learn how to use a bidet toilet
Called “washlets,” Japan’s high-tech, electronic bidet toilets will wash and dry your delicate parts with the touch of a button. (Don’t worry about any language barrier; the pictograms on the buttons are easy to understand.)
Other toilet customs in Japan might throw you for a loop. Motion-sensor-activated sound machines in the women’s toilets are intended to conceal, um, sensitive noises. Also expect dedicated toilet slippers in shoes-off establishments.
Note that there is frequently a lack of towels and hand dryers (locals carry small cloths with them for this reason).
6. Come prepared for the weather
Summers in Japan are hot and humid, which can mean a real risk of heatstroke. Carry water with you, and a folding umbrella with UV blocking is useful – and does double duty in case of a sudden shower. Late June is the start of the annual rainy season, when it can rain without end for days; this can last a few weeks or through most of July.
Rains, as well as punishing winds, are likely again during typhoon season, which runs from September through October (earlier in Okinawa).
Typhoons can cause serious travel disruption; monitor the situation with the Japan Meteorological Agency’s storm and other weather warnings, which are available in English. Winters can get chilly, and Tōhoku and Hokkaidō up north can get huge dumps of snow.
Japan’s ubiquitous convenience stores are handy for weather-related necessities like umbrellas, hats, cooling wipes and pocket warmers.
7. What to do in an earthquake in Japan
Japan is one of the most seismically active places on the planet. While strong earthquakes are rare, minor temblors happen all the time. If this occurs during your time here, stay calm and take your cue from those around you. Head under a table or stand in a doorway if the shaking picks up; strict building codes generally keep harm to a minimum.
Rarer but more dangerous tsunami can follow a significant quake. Should this occur, listen for tsunami warnings and get to higher ground fast if you are near the coast.
8. Make sure to carry cash…
In rural Japan and at older family businesses in cities, credit cards may not be accepted. It’s wise to assume you’ll need to pay cash at country ryokan and smaller restaurants and shops; stock up when you’re in a town with an ATM (cashpoint). To pay as the Japanese do, place your cash or card in the small tray at the register rather than handing either to the cashier.
9. …But don’t worry about tipping
Though tour guides who regularly take around foreign tourists might expect an extra, Japan has no custom of tipping, and an attempt to add to your bill will more often than not fluster or embarrass staff. In lieu of tipping, some bars and restaurants will charge a flat-rate service fee, usually around ¥300–500 (US$2.50–4.25) per person; others, typically fancy ones, will automatically add a 10% service charge to the bill.
10. Learn the art of queueing in Japan
The Japanese are big on queues, forming neat lines everywhere from check-out counters to train platforms. (Regarding the latter: after the train doors open, it’s everyone for themselves when it comes to scoring a seat.)
11. Stand to the left (or to the right)
Always ride on one side of the escalator – but which side depends on where you are. In Kanto and eastwards, it’s to the left; in Kansai and westwards, it’s to the right. (The dividing point is somewhere just west of Nagoya.) Incidentally, train operators want passengers to stand on both sides of the escalator and refrain from walking altogether, even if commuters have so far shrugged at these guidelines.
12. Know when the last train leaves
City subways run until 1am at the very latest. If you miss the last train for the night, the alternative is to catch a taxi, which can be expensive.
13. The morning commute in Tokyo can be intense
For Tokyoites, the morning commute is a contact sport. On weekdays from 7:30am to 9am, millions squeeze into trains across the city, sometimes helped along by station staff who make sure everyone’s packed in. Shinjuku Station, the busiest in the world, sees an average of over 3.5 million commuters daily; there are more than 200 exits leading in and out of the complex.
14. Eating in public is generally a no-no
It’s considered bad form to eat in public, especially while walking. Exceptions include the shinkansen (bullet train) and other reserved-seat limited-express trains, where it is customary to eat a bentō (boxed meal) on board; festivals or market streets with food vendors; picnics; and ice cream.
It’s also okay to take sips from a resealable beverage container, like a water bottle. Elsewhere, other dining etiquette rules apply.
15. Learn some Japanese lingo
English is widely spoken in cities and around major tourist attractions; in rural areas, though, it can be hit or miss. Some Japanese words that will come in handy when dining out:
• omori (large portion, often free at ramen stalls)
• okawari (refill)
• mochikaeri (takeaway)
• tennai de (eat-in)
• onegai shimasu (please). Follow up any of your orders or requests with this; for example, if you want tea, say, “O-cha onegai shimasu.”
• sumimasen (excuse me)
• arigato gozaimasu (thank you). Because it’s a bit of a mouthful, it’s tempting to shorten it to simply arigato. Think of it as the difference between “thank you” and “thanks” and go for the politer “arigato gozaimasu.”
• toire (toilet; pronounced “to-ee-rey”)
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Follow Pablo Picasso’s Footsteps Through Spain
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The 15 best things to do in Venice
Everyone wants to go to Venice, and who can blame them? A fairytale lagoon on which 118 islands float – linked by 400 bridges, covered in jaw-dropping palazzos and crammed with earth-shattering art whichever way you turn, this really is a place like no other. It’s also a place where all the stereotypes are true – to an extent. Yes, it’s spectacular – and yes, it’s just like the photos. But thanks to mass tourism, it’s also overcrowded and in precarious health.
Yet that’s not the whole story. Even in the busiest areas, step just one or two blocks away from the fray and you’ll find empty streets and local voices. Spend more time here – five days is a decent starter – and you’ll see that the real beauty of Venice isn’t in its blockbuster sights, like Piazza San Marco or the Rialto Bridge; it’s in the quieter spaces, where life goes on as it has done for centuries. And once you glimpse that life, you’ll want to protect it.
Overtourism is indeed devastating the city, but you don’t have to be part of it. Stay overnight in a hotel or B&B (not vacation rentals, which hollow out housing stock), eat in family-owned restaurants and buy souvenirs from Venice’s artisans who ply centuries-old trades. Then, not only are you helping the city stay alive, but you’re also ensuring a better trip. Because Venice done well is unforgettable – a trip to another world. Here are the 15 Best things to do in the city.
1. See what the fuss is about in Piazza San Marco
For many people, this waterfront square is Venice: the rolling domes of the basilica, the centuries-old cafes beneath the stately porticoes, the vast Campanile (belltower) throwing its shadow around the square, high tide occasionally sloshing around your feet. There’s so much to see around Piazza San Marco (or St Mark’s Square) that you could easily spend a day here.
Start in the Basilica di San Marco, the Byzantine basilica that glitters with golden mosaics inside. Then move on to the Campanile, where elevators whisk you up 98.6m (323ft) for jaw-dropper views of Venice and the lagoon. Spare a few hours for the Museo Correr, at the opposite end of the square from the basilica, which tells the story of the city through its objects. Need a break at any point? Stop for a coffee or a spritz at Quadri, our favorite of the 18th-century cafes in the square.
Local tip: Keen to understand these icons better? Time for some reading. Family-run Libreria La Toletta in Dorsoduro is Venice’s best bookshop, with literally hundreds of volumes about the city. For kids, try Ponte dei Sogni in Castello, whose beautiful picture books tell the history of the city.
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2. Enter the seat of power at the Palazzo Ducale
If you only visit one museum in Venice, you need to make it this: the vast Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace), the Republic of Venice’s seat of power for around 900 years. With its pink and white façade squaring off against the lagoon, it has everything: mindblowing art and architecture, plus a whole load of atmosphere.
There’s so much to see here – every single room is plastered with works by some of the greatest artists of all time – that you shouldn’t expect to take it all in. But it’s worth saving more time for the rooms and their art, and speeding across the famous Bridge of Sighs and through the grim prisons – although the latter is great for kids.
Planning tip: Queues can get long here so book your ticket in advance.
3. Sail down the Grand Canal
Venice may be a place for wandering, but its palazzos were built to be seen from the water. Take the number 1 Vaporetto (waterbus) which plies the Grand Canal, for one of the world’s greatest public transport routes.
You’ll find beauty every way you turn but heading south don’t miss: the Fondaco dei Turchi (once the headquarters for Arab and Muslim merchants, now the city’s natural history museum); Ca’ d’Oro, with its spectacular carved and marble-clad façade; Ca’ Foscari, the city’s beautiful university; and the bombastic octagonal Salute church, right before the Grand Canal meets the lagoon.
Local tip: Get off at Salute and walk down to Punta della Dogana, for the best lagoon views, and then up along the Zattere waterfront. From here you can pick up a number 2 Vaporetto which takes you to St. Mark’s Square from the other side.
4. Explore Rialto
Everyone who visits Venice wants to see the Rialto Bridge, the flouncy white bridge across the Grand Canal made of gleaming Istrian stone. Yet what the bridge leads to is more interesting. There’s been a market on the western side of the bridge for over 1000 years, and while it’s not the trading hub of centuries past, there’s still a lively fish market and a fruit and veg area too.
If you’re looking at the stalls, remember to buy something, and don’t get in the way of other shoppers – this is still a real market, even if many tourists treat it as an Instagram backdrop. Stop for a drink beside the Grand Canal on Campo Erbaria – Bancogiro is always a good bet for cicchetti (a small snack) – then lose yourselves in the surrounding alleyways, still full of food stores.
Planning tip: For a behind-the-scenes look at this most touristy of areas, take a tour with Go Guide, a local group of guides who focus on Rialto.
5. See the city’s best art at the Accademia
In Dorsoduro, sitting quietly at the end of the famous wooden Accademia Bridge, is one of Italy’s finest art museums, the Gallerie dell’Accademia. The meandering itinerary takes you through buildings packed with works that once hung from the city’s church walls, telling the story of Venetian art in the process. It starts with Paolo Veneziano, carries through to Carpaccio, Mantegna and Bellini, and then explodes into the finest works of Tintoretto, Titian and Veronese. If you only have two days in Venice, center your trip around these first five experiences.
Detour: Near the Accademia are two of Venice’s best artisans. At Cornici Trevisanello, the Trevisanello family has been making picture frames for the likes of Picasso for decades; they also make jewel-like smaller frames that make perfect souvenirs. Near Ca’ Foscari is bookbinder Paolo Olbi, who creates beautiful stationery with handprinted Venetian and Byzantine motifs. Further up towards Rialto, in Campiello dei Meloni, is Il Pavone, where Paolo Pelosin makes everything from stationery to earrings with exquisite marbled paper.
6. Eat cicchetti in a bacaro
Three essential words for your Venetian stay: ombra, cicchetti and bacaro. Ombra (shadow) is the local name given to a small glass of wine served in a bacaro – a traditional wine bar or tavern. It may only be a small glass but don’t forget to follow it with cicchetti – finger food-style bar snacks, rather like Spanish tapas. You’ll find bacari all over town – when you spot one that looks good, make sure you stop.
Local tip: These days most cicchetti are slices of baguette bread topped with anything from cheese to fish but don’t miss old-style ones like a hard-boiled egg with anchovies, or sarde in saor – sardines in a sweet-sour marinade with pine nuts and raisins.
7. Live the lagoon on Burano
Most visitors flock to Burano to photograph its gorgeous candy-colored cottages. Fair enough – but to do only that is to miss out on one of the most special places in the lagoon. A fishing community since medieval times, Burano’s relative isolation in the north lagoon – a 45-minute Vaporetto ride (or four-hour paddle) from Venice – has kept its culture intact. Or rather, it did until mass tourism hit.
Today, the Buranelli are assailed by crowds who come, photograph, and hit the boat back to town without spending a cent – but you can help them by practicing more sustainable tourism. Visit the Museo del Merletto which teaches you about the island’s lace-making tradition, and take a tour of the tranquil north lagoon with fisherman Andrea Rossi, who’ll sweep you past mudflats and islands in perfect peace, with birds overhead your only company. It’s definitely one of the top experiences in Venice to change everything you think about the city.
Local tip: Stop for lunch at the family-run Trattoria al Gatto Nero. Try the risotto di gò (goby fish risotto).
8. See the painful history behind the Jewish ghetto
The sinister word ghetto comes from the Venetian geto, or foundry – a clue to the past of this area, which was abandoned and undesirable when the Jewish community was forcibly settled here in 1516. Originally one tiny island, the area was expanded twice by the 17th century, with residents gated in every night, and living in eight-story ‘skyscrapers’.
Despite the appalling conditions, the Jewish community flourished here, building no fewer than five synagogues that were as lavish as Venice’s churches. Guided tours of the area get you access to some of them, including the atmospheric Scola Levantina, with scarlet-swaddled walls and a dark carved ceiling, redesigned by Venice’s 17th-century starchitect, Baldassare Longhena.
Planning tip: Note that the Museo Ebraico (Jewish Museum) is closed for renovation until further notice, but tours are ongoing. Book ahead.
9. Visit Venice’s Sistine Chapel
Forget Titian and Tiepolo – for many, Tintoretto is Venice’s greatest artist of all time. This is his finest work – filling two floors of a vast building with his paintings, including the ceiling. Once of Venice’s scuole – lay confraternities that did charity work in the community – the Scuola Grande di San Rocco was entirely decorated by Tintoretto to celebrate the end of the 1576 plague, which wiped out a third of the city.
There are more than 60 paintings of swirling Biblical scenes (Tintoretto revolutionized the depiction of movement and amped up the use of rich color), including on the roof of the main hall. It’s like Venice’s Sistine Chapel.
Planning tip: Many visitors see the Scuola and forget about the church of San Rocco, just outside. Don’t do that – there are yet more Tintorettos inside.
10. See the Grand Canal from Ca’ d’Oro
Nobody loved Venice like Baron Giorgio Franchetti. In 1894, he bought the 15th-century Ca’ d’Oro, a Gothic palazzo on the Grand Canal so lavish that it was named the “Golden House”. It had fallen into disrepair by the time he bought it and Franchetti dedicated his life to giving the house back its own – rebuilding, repairing, and filling it with sublime art. His ashes are now buried in the courtyard. From December 2022 to 2024, it’s undergoing a major restoration, but the gallery will remain open throughout, with some parts closed, stage by stage. The views of the Grand Canal and Rialto market are spectacular from its balconies.
Planning tip: The best way to arrive at Ca’ d’Oro is by traghetto – a large gondola-style boat that acts as a shuttle across the Grand Canal. The Santa Sofia stop is right by Ca’ d’Oro, and connects with the Rialto market.
11. Get to know glass on Murano
Floating in the lagoon a 10-minute Vaporetto ride north of Cannaregio, elegant Murano is a mini Venice with opulent waterfront palazzos, knockout churches, and even its own Grand Canal. It is best known for its glass blowers, as it has been for centuries. Start at the Museo del Vetro, the island’s glass museum, where you’ll learn that the art of glass-making was perfected in the Middle East, before Venice’s medieval trade links with Syria allowed it to copy and take it to new heights.
A small, easily digestible museum with a jewel-like collection, it’ll give you the background you need to appreciate the often tacky-looking glass ornaments in the shops. Ready to buy? We like Lucevetro, where Cecilia Cenedese designs products and gets island maestri to craft them for her, while Wave Murano Glass offers furnace tours and even lessons.
Detour: You may be here for glass but don’t miss Murano’s churches. The Basilica dei Santi Maria e Donato has a knockout 12th-century marble mosaic ‘carpet’, while the church of San Pietro Martire has works by Bellini, Tintoretto, and Veronese.
12. Go to church
You know that some of Venice’s best art lies in its churches but in a city that, legend used to say, had a church for every day of the year, how do you know where to start? Buying a Chorus pass is the way forward. Eighteen of Venice’s loveliest churches belong to this group – each is €3 to enter, but a pass for all of them, valid for one year, is just €12.
They’re dotted all around the city, so as you do your obligatory Venice wander, you can pop in for an art fix. They’re all worth seeing but the standouts are Santa Maria dei Miracoli (a marble-clad Renaissance jewel), and San Sebastiano, frescoed and painted almost entirely by Veronese.
Planning tip: Some of the churches have limited opening hours. When you get your pass, ask for the map of the churches – it also lists opening hours.
13. Visit the thoroughly modern Querini Stampalia museum
The Fondazione Querini Stampalia is a fascinating space in a 16th-century palazzo, combining a museum, gallery, library archive, and a modernist wing and garden designed by Venice’s 20th-century architect, Carlo Scarpa. The main gallery has works by the likes of Palma il Vecchio, Canaletto and Bellini, whose Presentation at the Temple is one of the city’s finest artworks.
It’s also a brilliant example of a modern museum: the information panels, redone in 2022, contextualize the art and teach you about Venetian life, from the poor conditions for house staff to arranged marriages and the banning of homosexuality.
Detour: In the square outside is the church of Santa Maria Formosa, one of the few true Renaissance buildings in Venice.
14. See Venice’s birthplace on Torcello
This island just across the water from Burano is where Venice began. The first island of the lagoon to be settled, and then a bustling early medieval boomtown, today Torcello is a haunting place of around a dozen inhabitants, and one big draw: the Basilica di Santa Maria Assunta, the vast church which dominated the north lagoon for centuries. Still visible from the airport, its interior sparkles with Byzantine-style mosaics from the 11th century. It’s pure magic.
Planning tip: Visit Torcello before Burano – if you do it the other way round, you’ll be trying to board a packed Vaporetto back to Venice.
15. Pay your respects to Tintoretto
Peaceful Cannaregio is worth a stroll for its tranquil canals lined with grand palazzos, and for the church of Madonna dell’Orto. This big barn of a place was Tintoretto’s neighborhood church – today he’s buried here, along with his artist children Domenico and Marietta, and its walls are covered with his paintings, as well as works by Titian, Palma il Giovane, and Cima da Conegliano.
Detour: A short walk away is the church of Sant’Alvise, part of the Chorus association, and famous for its spectacular trompe l’oeil ceiling.
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What to expect when Charleston’s International African American Museum opens in 2023
Looking to start planning your next adventure? We have a new reason for you to travel to Charleston, South Carolina in 2023.
Although it’s one of the most charming places in the South – and maybe even in the entire USA – Charleston, South Carolina is also a city with a very complex past.
The city, filled with gorgeous rainbow-colored row homes and palm-lined cobblestone streets, is a popular escape for anyone who loves blue crabs, horse-and-carriage rides and golden sands. However, for centuries the city’s Gadsden’s Wharf was a significant disembarkation site for enslaved men and women from across the Atlantic. It is said that more than 1000 cargos filled with men and women taken from West Africa were brought to the city’s harbor between 1670 and 1808 – a dark chapter often overlooked in favor of the award-winning restaurants, glossy boutiques and romantic bed-and-breakfasts that set the city apart today.
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Now, after more than 20 years of planning, the city will open the doors to the International African American Museum on that same waterfront land. Originally scheduled to open in January, the opening was delayed due to issues with the building’s temperature controls. A spokesperson for the museum now notes that it will open in late 2023.
When it opens, the 150,000-sq-ft IAAM will, its founders hope, not only bring to life African American history beginning with the journey from West Africa, but also honor the memory of the men and women who lost their lives along the way. The state-of-the-art building will be home to several exhibits, rotating shows as well as permanent displays. The museum’s ground level will feature the African Ancestors Memorial Garden, where visitors can quietly reflect on the powerful exhibitions or take in one of the many live performances on the schedule. There will also be family-friendly educational programs, allowing children to understand the history in a more digestible way.
The Center for Family History will allow visitors to trace their genealogy with the help of the knowledgeable on-site staff, and through a unique collection of digitized sources and documents. And while there is a focus on genealogical research, this important institution of American history is set to become one that every American should endeavor to visit. This groundbreaking museum aims to help all of us learn, understand and ultimately empathize a bit more with one another.
Where to eat in Charleston
In sticking with the theme of immersing yourself in the area’s Black history, you’ll want to dine at Hannibal’s Kitchen for a helping of Charleston okra soup and red rice – both staple recipes among locals. Red rice typically consists of long-grain white rice cooked with garlic, onions, tomato and bacon – very similar to jollof rice, a staple dish of West Africa.
Another local staple is the Charleston Chewie, a tasty dessert made with brown sugar that’s similar to a blondie but with a unique spin. You can pick up the sweet treat and several variations from family-owned Daddy’s Girls Bakery in North Charleston.
Where to drink in Charleston
If you fancy a great glass of bubbly, consider a nightcap or even brunch just a few minutes from the museum at Bourbon N’ Bubbles in the Hyatt House Charleston–Historic District. The upscale Black-owned eatery and cocktail bar features an extensive list of some of the world’s best champagnes and sparkling wines, in addition to over 50 bourbons and whiskeys, and unique signature cocktails like the Charleston 75 (Four Roses bourbon, St Germain and citrus finished with a sparkling rosé).
Also at the Hyatt is Mesu, an Asian-Mexican fusion spot with a fun drink menu to match. Whether you opt for one of the many tequila flights or a single tequila tasting, the possibilities are endless, with some 75 variations to choose from.
Where to stay in Charleston
A little more than a 10-minute walk away, the Courtyard Charleston Historic District is said to be the only full-service Black-owned hotel in town. Located on Calhoun St in the heart of downtown, the hotel lies not only in proximity to the museum, but also to the popular shopping area along King St, a must-visit stretch. At the hotel, you’ll find an on-site bistro, fitness center and pool.
On Meeting St is the luxurious Dewberry. Unwind with a signature Dewberry Daiquiri in hand and enjoy the view at from the 8th-floor Citrus Club, Charleston’s highest rooftop bar.
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London in 5 shops: the best souvenirs, the coolest thrift finds and more
In our 5 Shops series, we’ll point you in the direction of our favorite independent shops across some of the world’s best cities. From food markets to bookshops, vintage and homegrown design, we’ve found a diverse and exciting mix of local retailers where you can pick up one-of-a-kind pieces.
When shopping in London, it’s easy to be overwhelmed by choice.
This world capital offers something for everyone – and a rather dizzying number of places to buy whatever you need. Whether you’re looking for a memorable souvenir, a great snack or a vintage gem you won’t find anywhere else, we’ve compiled our five favorite independent shops in London to ensure you don’t miss out.
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The London Transport Museum Shop is the best place to buy a souvenir
For something a little more special than a Union Jack pen or a royal-themed keyring, make a stop at the London Transport Museum in Covent Garden. You don’t need to buy an entry ticket to visit the shop, where you can find a huge selection of keepsakes inspired by the city’s iconic transport network. There’s plenty of Paddington Bear merch for the kids, while grown-ups can choose from vintage-inspired posters (£10), socks featuring red Routemasters (£12) or a set of four mugs bearing the unique moquette patterns as seen on the seats of London’s Tube and buses (£45).
Score the best vintage finds at Rellik
The neighborhood around Portobello Rd is the city’s top shopping destination for secondhand fashion, antiques and bric-a-brac, with the Saturday market proving especially busy. One boutique shines brightest: Rellik, just around the corner on Golborne Rd. It sells a dazzling array of vintage womenswear, jewelry and accessories, with budget-friendly buys like blouses and belts under £50, along with an impressive edit of designer pieces by British names, including a 1990s wool tartan skirt suit by Vivienne Westwood (£595), and international brands, such as a 1980s Yves Saint Laurent jacket and skirt set in metallic gold brocade (£385).
London’s best bookstore is Daunt Books Marylebone
There are bigger bookstores in the city, but what makes this beautiful Edwardian store a must-visit for tourists is its cataloging system. As it was originally a travel bookshop, the shelves in its long oak gallery are still organized geographically, which means you can browse guides, history and fiction by country or continent. Don’t leave without picking up one of the canvas tote bags illustrated with the store’s facade (£15), the most stylish way to hold your new purchases.
London’s best lifestyle boutique? Goodhood
This lifestyle store has become a staple of London’s East End, offering affordable and luxury menswear, womenswear, beauty and homewares from British and international makers, spread out across two floors. Local designers to look out for include YMC, Universal Works, Folk and luxury streetwear label Aries – check out its effortlessly cool logo tees and sweatshirts (from £70). We also love scented candles from Haeckels (£55), inspired by the skincare company’s coastal surroundings in Margate, and the timeless sneakers from East London brand Stepney Workers Club (from £70).
Visit Borough Market to enjoy the best food market in town
No visit to London is complete without a stop at the city’s oldest food market, packed with stalls selling everything from vegan cheese to delicate pastries to classic fish-and-chips. To narrow it down, try a delicious sandwich like the pulled pork on brioche with apple sauce from Hobbs Roast (£7.50), or a cheese toastie at Kappacasein Dairy (£7). Finish off with a treat well worth queuing for: Bread Ahead Bakery’s famous doughnut (£4), available in such flavors as sea salted caramel and honeycomb, chocolate or raspberry jam.
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8 of the best things to do in Everglades National Park
Unfurling for more than 1.5 million acres across South Florida, Everglades National Park is a wonderland of marshland, sawgrass and mangroves.
Covering such a vast expanse, the park can intimidate first-timers as it is hard to know where to begin. How you explore the Everglades makes all the difference. You can hike, airboat, canoe, kayak, or even travel by tram here and each presents visitors with a different landscape. So whether strolling on a boardwalk above gator-filled waters or embarking on a backcountry camping adventure, here are the best things to do in Everglades National Park.
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1. Visit all four of the park’s entrances for different vibes
There are four total entrances to the park each segueing to distinct terrains. To make the most of an Everglades trip, you should try to visit them all. The Shark Valley Visitor Center is approximately 40 miles west of Miami. It’s home to the quintessential, 15-mile paved Tram Road, a haven for bike rides, walks, and, yes, tram rides, always with gators lounging on the side of the road. The Gulf Coast Visitor Center in Everglades City is a hub for boating excursions, providing the perfect seaside jumping-off point for exploring the Ten Thousand Islands, a wildlife refuge for thousands of water birds.
Homestead is home to two visitor centers. Royal Palm Visitor Center provides access to a number of shorter hiking trails (less than a mile), ranging from strolls under canopy trees to walks on boardwalks over the marshland. The Flamingo Visitor Center is approximately 40 miles south of Royal Palm – a gateway to the mangrove-draped Florida Bay, canoe trails, and the 275-pitch Flamingo Campground.
2. See how many alligators you can spot along the Anhinga Trail
Fewer than 50ft from the Royal Palm Visitor Center is the park’s most popular hike. The Anhinga Trail is short – just an 0.8-mile round-trip – but it carries so much Everglades pizzazz. Along wooden boardwalks, which often hover above lily and sawgrass marsh, and asphalt terrain, this is where you have a solid shot at seeing gators, turtles, and the trail’s namesake, the anhinga, a large water bird with a tail that resembles a turkey.
Detour: For a bonus short hike, the 0.4-mile Gumbo Limbo Trail is right by the Royal Palm Visitor Center, too.
3. Zip through water lily-covered water on an airboat
If the Everglades were to have an official vehicle, it would be the airboat. Not sure what one is? Cruise down the Tamiami Trail and you’ll be greeted with “AIRBOAT TOURS” signs aplenty – they are flat-bottomed boats with giant propeller fans on the back, designed to safely navigate the grass and lily-heavy waters.
While there are oodles of airboat operators beyond the national park’s confines, there are only three that operate within the park: Gator Park, Everglades Safari Park, and Coopertown Airboats. Whichever you choose, just make sure to keep your hands inside when you coast by the inevitable gator (or ten).
4. Camp on a chickee
What is a chickee, you ask? In Everglades National Park, it equates to a wooden platform positioned above the water where you can set up a tent. It’s like having your own little island. The bulk of the chickee sites are found near the Flamingo Visitor Center. You’ll need a few things in addition to your camping gear, including a backcountry camping permit (available from any park visitor center), bug repellant for the inevitable mosquitos, and a canoe (as you’ll need to venture to the sites via water). Canoes and kayaks can be rented from several spots around the park.
Off the Hell’s Bay Trail are a handful of chickee sites within a 5-mile canoe jaunt, including Lard Can and Pearl Bay Chickee.
5. Learn about The Everglades’ tribal roots at the Miccosukee’s museum
The Everglades have been inhabited by humans for upwards of 15,000 years. Long before European colonization began in the 19th century, tribes like the Seminoles and Miccosukees comprised the bulk of the population.
Today, you can learn all about the Miccosukee tribe’s history and legacy at the Miccosukee Indian Village, nestled less than a half-mile from the park’s Shark Valley entrance. The village includes a 40-year-old museum with beadwork and photographs as well as regular and ethical alligator demonstrations, which demonstrate the importance of the gators to the tribe, so there are no wrestling elements to the show.
Detour: The Museum of the Everglades also has exhibits covering more than 2000 years of The Everglades’ history. Cruising through Everglades City, you can’t miss it – it’s a restored pink building that’s on the National Register of Historic Places.
6. Spot pelicans and storks on a pondside birdwatching adventure
Among the seemingly infinite number of waterways and ponds within the park’s confines, two spots remain supreme for birdwatching. Eco Pond is located across the street from the Flamingo Campground and features a half-mile paved trail around it. Year-round, you can stroll and witness ducks frolicking about and the spectrum of wading birds – storks, herons, and egrets – taking a dip or soaring above.
Mrazek Pond is another bird lover’s paradise, particularly during the winter months when hordes of wood storks feast in the shallow waters. Ask a guide at the Flamingo Visitor Center – just three miles south – what’s in season and what to expect.
7. Zigzag through Nine Mile Pond’s mangrove islands via canoe or kayak
The ultimate yet approachable Everglades water excursion awaits at Nine Mile Pond. Located approximately 12 miles northwest of the Flamingo Visitor Center, you’ll find the roadside trailhead for this water course. Despite its name, it’s actually not a nine-mile paddle – it’s 5.2 miles. Along the way, you’ll swish through tree islands, curved mangrove tunnels, and open tranquil waters. Don’t worry, it’s all well-marked with the periodic white PVC pipe sign jutting out of the water with helpful arrows.
Planning tip: If you need to rent a canoe or kayak, head to the Flamingo Visitor Center. The team there will provide you with a key to unlock a canoe or kayak that’s waiting for you at the pond.
8. Tour the Ten Thousand Islands via boat
You’ll need a boat to navigate the majority of Everglades National Park as it consists primarily of swamps, lakes, and marshes. For a true, open-water experience, head to the Gulf Coast Visitor Center. The park itself offers 90-minute ranger-narrated boat tours aboard a large catamaran through Florida Bay where you’ll see island after island made of mangroves, sawgrass and other lush flora. You’ll want to book the excursion ahead of time via its partner, Everglades Florida Adventures.
Planning tip: If you seek an upper-body workout, there are four-hour, ranger-led kayak and canoe tours of Florida Bay available at the Gulf Coast Visitor Center, too.
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5 of the best hikes in Everglades National Park
While Everglades National Park is loaded with 1.5 million acres of canals, marshes and tropical critters, its hiking options are limited.
In fact, there are less than three dozen formal trails in the entirety of its South Florida confines, many of which are short interpretive trails less than a mile long. Plus, there are entrances to the park in three separate cities that are many miles apart, which means you need to go in with a plan pinpointing the experience you’re looking for.
Regardless of where your Everglades hiking adventure takes you, count on it being flat and a way to get up close and personal with the park’s nearly 400 bird species, lush flora and, yes, perhaps a gator or two. Just make sure to pack sun-protective clothing, sunscreen and bug repellant for any Everglades hike to mitigate sun- or mosquito-related headaches.
With the right goods, you’re ready to hit the trails – here are the five best hikes within Everglades National Park.
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1. Anhinga Trail
Best hike for families
0.8 miles (1.3km) round trip, less than 1 hour, easy
Little did you know that so much Everglades wildlife wonder could be packed into a less-than-a-mile stretch? This pristinely paved trail – with portions of well-kept and railed wooden boardwalks hovering over the marshland – is perhaps your easiest and best chance to see turtles and a hearty selection of the Everglades’ bird species. To access the Anhinga Trail trailhead, venture to the Ernest F. Coe Visitor Center in Homestead and head approximately four miles south to the Royal Palm Visitors Center – the trailhead is around 50ft behind the building.
The bulk of this hike is in unshaded terrain and surrounded by standing water, so pack extra bug repellant. If this quick hike leaves you and yours wanting more, the 0.4-mile Gumbo Limbo Trail is a stone’s throw from the visitor center and is draped in massive hammock trees.
2. Christian Point Trail
Best hike through diverse Florida landscapes
3.6 miles (5.79km) round trip, 2–3 hours, difficult
Whereas you may get a singular vibe on some of the shorter trails in Everglades National Park, this one is multifaceted. You’ll find the trailhead to this difficult hike one mile north of the Flamingo Visitor Center in Homestead. What makes it difficult is the jagged terrain you’ll encounter, including thick mangrove patches and sporadic debris from hurricanes of yesteryear. A stretch of open prairie provides a nice reprieve on dry days.
If rain is in the forecast or the area has experienced recent downpours, prepare for a muddy experience. Even the flattest prairies are a slushy mud-fest, so bring the right pants and boots. And, yes, with standing water in the Everglades are mosquitos, so pack your bug repellant.
3. Shark Valley Tram Road
Best hike for a gator encounter
15 miles (24.1km), round trip, 4–5 hours, easy
Tram may be in its name, but it is a hot spot for bikers and hikers. Tucked just south of the Tamiami Trail and 40 miles west of Downtown Miami, this trail is located south of the Shark Valley Visitor Center. It’s a paved route that looks like a narrow north-to-south oval. Along the way – and particularly toward the beginning of the trail – count on seeing some gators bathing in the sun in the adjacent canals.
From there, a popular stop is its midpoint – the Shark Valley Observation Tower. With a winding ramp to its 70-foot-high pinnacle, this is the highest point accessible by foot in the park. While flat and paved, if you’re going to commit to walking this trail, come prepared. There is zero shade along the route, limited water opportunities and the sole bathroom facility (aside from Shark Valley Visitor Center) is at the observation tower.
4. Coastal Prairie Trail
Best hike for a camping adventure
7.5 miles (12km) one-way trip, 3–4 hours, difficult
Situated near the park’s southwesternmost edge, this hike is worth… the hike. It is situated within a quick stroll of the Flamingo Visitor Center in Homestead, which is also home to a drive-in campground with nearly 300 sites. The Flamingo Campground is well-equipped for those who don’t like to be disconnected – this is one of the few spots in the park where cell reception is typically reliable and there are solar-heated showers. Just make sure to book a reservation in advance, particularly during the area’s peak season of December through April.
As for the trail itself, it’s an east-to-west shot through a mix of open prairies and muddy terrain. You’ll want to wear long pants through the thicker forest sections as pesky mangrove roots, thorns, and debris from recent storms can persist. The trail culminates at the white sand-draped Clubhouse Beach, with plenty of space to plop a tent. If you decide to camp overnight, snag a backcountry permit at the Flamingo Visitor Center or online ahead of time.
5. Bear Lake Trail
Best hike with a little history
3.2 miles (5.1km) round trip, 1–2 hours, moderate
Trickling alongside the Bear Lake Trail, you’ll see the Homestead Canal. Constructed in 1922, the canal was originally designed to funnel freshwater from the marshland out to sea. The goal was to create a drier piece of land for future development. Instead, the opposite happened, and saltwater entered the ecosystem, taking over portions of the freshwater system, forever creating a hybrid system in that portion of the park.
The trail itself – located two miles north of the Flamingo Visitor Center in Homestead – is draped in more than 50 different tree species, with hardwood hammocks towering above, culminating in a sweeping vista of Bear Lake with dots of mangrove islands. Regular maintenance has ceased on Bear Lake Trail recently as the park prioritizes protecting the Cape Sable thoroughwort, a small purple-hued sunflower. So, wear sturdier hiking shoes to navigate the periodic thick grass patches and down branches.
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The 6 best things to do with kids at Everglades National Park
With critters basking in the sun, boats whizzing by and educational opportunities aplenty, Everglades National Park is a kid’s paradise. Its marshy landscape begs for exploration, with mangrove islands, carved-out canoe paths and a handful of modern visitor centers with interactive exhibits to check out.
The nice thing about the Everglades is that you can traverse its landscape via many modes – airboat, hiking, kayaking, driving and even a tram – so when you or the little ones need a breather, it’s seamless to shift gears while still taking it all in. Make sure everyone is layered in sunscreen, bug repellant and sun-protective gear, like hats, sunglasses and, if needed, long sleeves. Once ready, these are the six best things to do with kids in Everglades National Park.
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1. Zip around on an airboat
Airboat rides are a quintessential Everglades experience, where you glide along the marsh landscape on a flat boat with a giant fan-like propeller. It’s refreshing and scenic for kids and adults alike.
Everglades National Park has three authorized airboat businesses: Coopertown Airboats, Everglades Safari Park and Gator Park. All three are located closest to the park’s Shark Valley / Miami entrance along the historic Tamiami Trail. Most operators within the national park and beyond offer a children’s discount. Coopertown Airboats, for example, has discounts for children ages 6 to 11 and free rides for those under 6.
It can be incredibly tempting to reach out to pet wading birds and even friendly seeming alligators, so if you have a particularly hands-on little one, it’s wise to sit toward the middle of the vessel to mitigate temptation. Plus, airboats are typically covered, making the center seats less prone to the often-beaming Florida sun.
2. Hike the Gumbo Limbo or Anhinga trails
Florida is about as flat as a US state can get, so for those seeking non-strenuous hikes, the Everglades is bliss. However, this 1.5-million-acre park only has 30 hiking trails. The majority of the land is freshwater and saltwater habitats.
For kid-friendly hikes, head to the Royal Palm Visitor Center in Homestead. Once you’ve parked, the Gumbo Limbo and Anhinga trails are within 50ft of the visitor center. Just less than a half-mile round trip, the Gumbo Limbo Trail is paved for the stroller crowd and guides you through ferns, royal palms and, yes, large-limbed gumbo limbos.
The Anhinga Trail is a bit longer – 0.8 miles – and often loaded with sunbathing critters, like gators, herons and turtles. When you and yours need a bathroom or diaper break, the Royal Palm Visitor Center is well-equipped.
3. Bike or tram the Shark Valley Tram Road
A 15-mile-long paved circular trail, the Shark Valley Tram Rd is surrounded by islands, with trees, tall grass and the sporadic bathing alligator. No matter how you tackle the trail – hiking, biking and tramming are all options – bring plenty of sunscreen and plan a pit stop at the midpoint: an observation tower with a ramp winding over a gator-dotted waterway.
On the lower-energy side, two-hour ranger-led tram tours start hourly from 9am to 4pm between mid-December and April. Otherwise, the tram has four departures daily, so check the schedule ahead.
For bike rentals, there is a shop attached to the Shark Valley Visitor Center with kids’ and adult bikes with child seats. The Shark Valley area of the park opens at 8:30am, and bike rentals can sell out quickly, so reserve ahead of time to prevent on-site disappointment. The shop also has helmets – it is Florida law for bicyclists under 16 to wear a helmet.
4. Embark on a ranger-led journey (and have your kid become a junior ranger too)
Beyond the educational tram tour at Shark Valley, there are ranger-led adventures from the Royal Palm and Flamingo visitors’ centers in Homestead and the Gulf Coast Visitor Center in Everglades City. Keep an eye on scheduling, as most tours only occur during the dry season (November through April).
Popular programs include a wildlife-centric stroll along the Anhinga Trail, a “Hidden History” journey on the Guy Bradley Trail and narrated boat tours focused on the geography of the Gulf Coast’s 10,000-plus islands.
Select national parks have junior ranger programs. Kids (and adults) can snag an interactive booklet at a visitor center, complete educational activities within the park and earn a badge. The Everglades is one of these parks and has recently provided a bingo sheet for kids to spot certain wildlife – pelicans, raccoons and even mosquitos – to earn their badge.
5. Canoe or kayak and gawk at more than 350 bird species
Okay, perhaps the Everglades Wilderness Waterway – a 99-mile recreational route connecting Everglades City and Flamingo – may not be the most kid-friendly option for a kayaking excursion. But there are plenty of spots to canoe and kayak in the Everglades for the whole family.
The Flamingo Visitor Center – located 38 miles southwest of the park entrance in Homestead – has an adjacent marina with boat tours of backcountry waters and the Florida Bay. Admission is half-off for kids 12 and under ($20 per child). You can also rent kayaks and canoes at the marina, meaning you’ll receive keys to unlock rentals at nearby ponds and waterways.
Among the most popular nearby destinations for kayaking and canoeing is the Nine Mile Pond loop, which takes you through mangrove islands and grassy landscapes (though it’s actually 3.5 to 5 miles depending on your route). If a do-it-yourself rental is too much to coordinate, Everglades National Park Institute also has guided tours.
6. Learn about Everglades’ history at local museums and visitor centers
Each of the Everglades’ four visitor centers is very much a museum in its own right, with snippets of park history and wildlife exhibits.
For history-loving young ones, the Miccosukee Indian Village has a museum dedicated to the eponymous tribe and their centuries-old roots in the Everglades. The village also has airboat rides and ethical alligator demonstrations, shedding light on the tribe’s relationship with the critters, which has gone from using them for food to conservation.
Perhaps the most comprehensive museum on the Everglades is in Everglades City. The Museum of the Everglades covers over 2000 years of area history, with puzzles, coloring activities and educational crossword puzzles to keep kids entertained.
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