What every local wants you to know before traveling to Guadalajara

I have known Guadalajara my whole life, traveling here to visit extended family since the year I was born. As a little girl, it was a place of orange-flavored sodas and chile-covered lollipops, mariachi-serenades for my twenty-something tías (balcony swooning included) and hours spent making tortillas.

The historic center was a place to run and play, to cool off in the Catedral or under a mural in Cabañas, to fill up on chocolate-stuffed cuernos from our favorite bakery. When I began visiting with my American friends, I started to see Guadalajara through different eyes and appreciate its depth and complexity. A colonial city wrapped in a modern metropolis, traffic jams, pickpockets and all; a place steeped in tradition yet standing for inclusion; a city where a night out could include world-class cuisine or bacon-wrapped hot dogs, a symphony concert or a raucous lucha libre match. Guadalajara remains all of this, past and present (chile-covered lollipops included). Here are a few tips to help you make the most out of it.


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Planning your trip to Guadalajara

Plan on (at least) a four-day stay

Sure, you can see Guadalajara’s highlights in a couple of days – most are in the historic center – but stay awhile to check out the city’s colonial-to-hipster neighborhoods, wander through dazzling art museums and outdoor markets, take in some live music and maybe even find your favorite late night taco stand. Check out the tourism office’s cartelera, a comprehensive calendar of events, before you head to town.

Book early for October

The city brims with visitors every October when Guadalajara hosts Fiestas de Octubre, a month-long celebration featuring spectacular live performances, pop-up amusement parks and parades. A long-standing annual pilgrimage to the Basílica de Zapopan, also held in October, adds fuel to the fire when millions of Catholic faithful hit the streets in honor of the venerated icon La Zapopanita. Book your hotel early!

Bring layers (and sometimes an umbrella)

Guadalajara is known for its temperate daytime temperatures, hovering in the 70s and 80s year-round. Evenings are another story. In winter, bring warm clothing and a jacket for the sometimes frigid air. In summer, a light sweater will do. Add an umbrella to your summer packing list, especially in July and August, when afternoon showers are a daily occurrence.

A person wearing a vest and sunglasses looks over a display of cowboy hats at an open-air market in Guadalajara
The open-air market in Guadalajara is the perfect place to spend your Sunday © Cavan Images / Getty Images

Be here on a Sunday

Soak in the local culture on Sundays, a day when the plazas are bustling with street vendors and performers, major streets are closed to cars to make room for walkers and bikers (free bikes are available at Parque Revolución), and Guadalajara’s largest open-air crafts market fills the streets of Tonalá. For a treat, take in an afternoon charreada or lucha libre show.

Don’t rent a car

There’s no need to rent a car in Guadalajara – the traffic can be crushing and walking is often the quickest option. For places further afield, several bus lines and a newly expanded metro system crisscross the city for cheap (M$9.50-15) – use the Moovit app to navigate your way around town. For more comfort, Uber is an easy, affordable option.

Save pesos getting to and from the airport

The cheapest ride to and from Guadalajara’s international airport is by city bus. It can get crowded and makes frequent stops, but it’s a steal at less than a buck a ride. Look for the bus stop in front of the Hotel Casa Grande, 50m from the terminal and take either a “Ruta 176” or “Atasa” bus. Both run to the center of town in about 45 minutes, passing every 15 minutes morning till night.

Etiquette in Guadalajara

Call locals tapatíos

Be in the know and use tapatío to refer to someone or something from Guadalajara. The word is derived from tlapatiotl, meaning “bartering system” in Nahuatl, the language spoken by the region’s original inhabitants.

Greet people

Tapatíos, and Mexicans in general, value pleasantries. Before any interaction – even just entering a shop or restaurant – say “buenos dias” (good morning), “buenas tardes” (good afternoon) or “buenas noches” (good evening). When you leave, “adios” (goodbye), “gracias” (thank you), or “con permiso” (excuse me) is customary. Even if that’s all you say in Spanish, it’ll be deeply appreciated.

A float full of people celebrating and waving rainbow flags during the Pride Parade in Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico
Guadalajara has a vibrant LGBTIQ+ scene and throws one of the biggest Pride festivals in Mexico annually © Nicky Redl / Getty Images

This Catholic city isn’t as conservative as you’d expect

Despite its history and reputation as a conservative Catholic city, Guadalajara is also one of the most accepting and inclusive places in Mexico for LGBTIQ+ people. Pride parades and gay bars, openly-owned LGBTQ+ businesses and cultural events are common.

Save your shorts and flip flops for the beach

Unless you’re a kid, wearing shorts or flip flops will peg you as a tourist in Guadalajara. Even on the hottest days, adults just don’t wear them outside their homes. Stick to pants or skirts and wear leather sandals or closed-toe shoes instead. For a night out on the town, dress to impress.

Don’t be shy on the bus

If you’re on a bus without a functioning bell pull (it happens), yell out “bajan” (BA-hahn). Meaning “getting off” it’ll signal the driver to stop at the nearest intersection.

Food stalls selling corn in Hidalgo park (main square) Guadalajara, Mexico
Don’t sleep on Guadalajara’s street food stalls, your favorite meal could be just around the corner © Alamy Stock Photo

Lean into street food

Guadalajara’s early morning street food fave – and sworn-by hangover cure – is the torta ahogada (literally “drowned sandwich”), a baguette-like roll stuffed with slow-roasted pork and drenched in hot sauce. You’ll be tempted to eat it with a fork and knife, but tapatíos use their hands – do like locals do and lean over your plate, like it’s a trough, to avoid splattering yourself. Go the extra mile and tuck a few napkins into your shirt front. It’s not pretty, but you’ll fit right in.

Haggle with kindness

Negotiating prices, especially in markets, is common practice in Guadalajara. Prices will shift slightly or the merchant might throw in a knick-knack. But before your dig in your heels over a few pesos, remember they likely mean a lot more to the vendor than they do to you.

Put TP in the waste basket

Antiquated plumbing in Guadalajara means that flushing toilet paper can often clog the system. If you see an open waste basket in a stall or hotel bathroom, use it for your TP.

Health and safety in Guadalajara

Avoid tap water

Don’t drink the tap water or even use it to brush your teeth. While it’s purified at the source, it can become contaminated as it travels through aging water lines. Instead, use bottled water. That said, there’s no need to worry about ice in restaurants or bars – it’s purchased from commercial ice factories.

Opt for Uber over taxis

Though taxis are easy to hail in the city center, they’re known for ripping off passengers, refusing to use their meters and quoting inflated flat rates. Use Uber instead, which provides reliable service at cheaper rates. If you must take a cab, be sure you agree on the price before you get in – if it seems high, try bargaining or just wait for another taxi.

Be alert for pickpockets

Like most big cities, pickpocketing is a risk on crowded buses and subway trains, markets, and busy streets and plazas. Mercado San Juan de Dios and the post-clubbing scene on Avenida Chapultepec are notorious for petty theft. Stay alert to your surroundings, remembering that pickpockets often work in teams, crowding their victims to distract them. To lessen the risk of being targeted, leave flashy jewelry at home and place your valuables in the hotel safe.

Avoid fringe neighborhoods

Violent crimes aren’t prominent in Guadalajara, especially in touristed areas. But do avoid wandering into fringe neighborhoods on the east side – Colonia Jalisco and Santa Fe in particular are known for their gang activity.

For help, contact your consulate

If you’re a victim of crime, need medical assistance or legal help, contact your consulate or embassy. Almost 50 countries, including the US and Canada, have representatives in Guadalajara that can help you navigate the system or recommend providers.

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Southwest Oregon is a top road trip for outdoor adventurers: here’s the best route to follow

Oregon has no dearth of mindblowing outdoor adventure, from dramatic coasts with vertigo-inducing cliffs to rushing rivers through national forests to high desert. And while the northeast corner of the state gets a lot of the love, southwest Oregon offers an away-from-it-all experience that features the many natural beauties of this state. 

And the best way to do it? By car, of course. The 101 runs the length of the coast and a web of highways and country roads lead inland, connecting national parks, quirky towns, and off-the-beaten-track getaways. 

Here’s our itinerary for a perfect southwest Oregon road trip.

A woman poses with a body board above her head on a sand dune to the left, and a man holds two crabs up to the camer on the right
From sandboarding to fresh seafood, Florence can keep you busy and well-fed © Bailey Freeman

Stop 1: Florence is an atmospheric place to begin your road trip

Book a flight into the little Eugene airport for quick access to the southwest coast – seaside Florence is only an hour and fifteen minutes down the road. Located on the traditional land of the Suislaw people, this small settlement features an atmospheric Main Street with restaurants, confectionaries, art galleries, and even an apothecary. If you’re a fan of seafood, don’t miss Novelli’s, where you can enjoy straight-from-the-ocean whole Dungeness crab and savory seafood chowder right on the dock.

If you’re feeling adventurous, head to Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area right outside of town to sandboard down spectacular dunes at the world’s first sandboarding park, Sand Master Park. Here, they’ve thought of everything – they even have a sandboard designed to work on wet sand, perfect for the inevitable Oregon rainshower. 

Drive to Coos Bay: Head south from Florence on the 101 for about an hour until you reach Coos Bay. Along the way you’ll pass several recreation stop-off options including Umpqua Lighthouse State Park, Umpqua Beach, and the Horsfall Beach Camping Area.

Sea lions sun themselves on the rocks at Cape Arago Cliffs State Park, Coos Bay
Spot the sea lions on the rocks of Cape Arago Cliffs State Park © iStockphoto / Getty Images

Stop 2: Enjoy the scenic coastline around Coos Bay

Coos Bay is a small port town tucked away against its namesake body of water, and it’s an excellent place to slow down and enjoy the subtle beauties of the Oregon coast. If you’re looking for an unconventional accommodation option that puts you right in the middle of Coos Bay’s most beautiful places, book a cabin or Airstream at Bay Point Landing, a glamping getaway that strikes the perfect balance between luxury and outdoor adventure. Wake up with the rising sun to watch the shorebirds fly across the estuary, go crabbing in the nearby waters, or make smores over your own personal fire pit. 

Three state parks sit within a stone’s throw of Coos Bay: Sunset Bay, Shore Acres and Cape Arago. These protected areas show off Oregon’s striking cliff sides and sea-battered rock formations; each park contains short, accessible trails that deliver big views, and you can hike all the way from Sunset Bay to Cape Arago on a continuous out-and-back.

Drive to Port Orford: Head back to the 101 and drive an hour south to arrive at Port Orford; the route veers away from the coast a bit, so this is a straight shot through rural Oregon.

The front of a yellow-and-orange kayak in deep blue waters with the coastline ahead
Port Orford is near Redfish Rocks Marine Reserve © Bailey Freeman

Stop 3: Get out on the water near Port Orford

Port Orford is a small town on a spur of the Oregon Coast that abuts the Redfish Rocks Marine Reserve. If you’ve been yearning to get on the water, now’s your chance – book with South Coast Tours to kayak out around the cliffs and see plum- and tangerine-colored sea stars, anemones, seals, shorebirds and more. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, head over to the Crazy Norwegian for crispy fish and chips, plus a decadent slice of marionberry pie.

Drive to Grants Pass: From here, head south on the 101 to enjoy all the beautiful coastal views you can handle before your journey takes you inland – stop off at the Natural Bridges Viewpoint to stretch your legs before circumnavigating the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest on your way to Grants Pass. Your drive will take you down into California right past Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, a worthy detour. 

Stop 4: Grants Pass is a gateway to trips on the Rogue River

Grants Pass is an excellent access point for adventures down the Rogue River, a 200-mile waterway that offers everything from a pleasant float to an adrenaline-pumping trip through some of the state’s best rapids. Book with Orange Torpedo Trips for single and multi-day trips; We recommend an outing in one of the inflatable kayaks – it’s perfect for beginners looking to try out whitewater kayaking. 

For a place to rest your head after your epic paddle, head to the Weasku Inn, a historic lodge built in 1924 that played host to many of Hollywood’s Golden Era elite: Clark Gable and Bing Crosby were repeat visitors. 

Drive to Crater Lake National Park: Head east from Grants Pass for 2.5 hours to reach one of Oregon’s treasures: Crater Lake National Park. The route follows OR-62 as it winds up the eastern side of the Cascade Mountains.

A woman sits in a hot spring surrounded by woodland
Umpqua Hot Springs is an excellent place to pause and relax © Getty Images

Stop 5: Crater Lake National Park is full of fantastic outdoor activities

The park’s defining feature is the country’s deepest lake (almost 2000ft deep!), a crystalline body of water inside a volcanic caldera. Admire the view on the Scenic Rim Drive, walk through the historic Rim Village, hike some of the park’s 90 miles of trail, catch a boat out to Wizard’s Island, or take a dip in the lake’s blue waters via the Cleetwood Cove Trail – but be warned, the hike down to the shore is not for the faint of heart.

Drive back to Eugene: The home stretch! Take the 2.5-hour drive back to Eugene. If your bones are aching from all that time in the car, stop off at Umpqua Hot Springs for a relaxing soak.

Stop 6: Hit the nightlife in Eugene

Spend some time in this eccentric university town and you’re bound to find some local treasures. Bike along the Willamette River, grab a brew in the Whiteaker neighborhood, or stop in at Oregon Wine LAB to taste some of the region’s renowned pinot noirs (or a few crisp whites) and stuff your face with amazing eats from Da Nang Vietnamese Eatery. Nightlife also offers some unique twists and turns – hit the Big Dirty to have your rockstar karaoke moment on their atmospheric stage, shoot some pool at Luckey’s Club (one of Oregon’s oldest bars), or catch a show at the Hult Center for the Performing Arts.

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Getting around in Panama is a breeze, whether you travel by bus, boat or the Panama Canal

The isthmus of Panama is compact enough to be crossed in an hour but varied enough to keep you traveling for weeks. It’s one of the most biologically diverse places on earth, yet small enough to fit inside South Carolina. This fascinating Central American country is both tame and fierce, settled and remote, modest and unashamedly grand. 

Despite the tropical setting, getting around Panama is easy enough. The country boasts thousands of kilometers of paved roads, a modern bus network, water taxis, an innovative new Metro train in the capital – and, of course, the Panama Canal. 

Be aware that some parts of Panama are so remote that your only option may be to travel down a crocodile-infested river in a rickety canoe or hack through the undergrowth with a machete. Whether you choose to play it safe or go wild, here’s our guide to getting around Panama. 


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Use buses to travel long distances in Panama

Panama has an affordable and extensive bus network connecting all major mainland destinations. Most intercity buses are 28-seat Toyota Coasters with icy air-conditioning and raucous salsa music. Bulky luggage is strapped to the roof, and there’s an assistant called a pavo (literally, ‘turkey’) to collect fares and help out. The long-distance buses connecting Panama City and David are the best in Central America.

You’ll also find chivas – converted cattle or pickup trucks with hard benches and tarpaulin coverings to keep off the rain. Chivas are typically only seen on the most remote rural routes. Then there are diablo rojos (red devils) – old US school buses, also known as ‘chicken buses’ – pimped-out with neon lights and gaudy artwork.

Chicken buses have been nearly phased out in Panama City but continue to operate in a few areas, including along the central Caribbean Coast. 

Most towns and cities have a downtown terminal. Elsewhere, buses pick up and drop off passengers at concrete shelters on the roadside. Stick out your thumb to flag down a passing bus, and yell “parada” (‘stop’) when you want to get off.

Vividly colorful chicken buses waiting for passengers in Panama
Panama’s vividly colorful ‘chicken buses’ are slowly being phased out, but you’ll still find them on the central Caribbean Coast © Milosz Maslanka / Shutterstock

Tips for traveling out of Panama City by bus

In Panama City, intercity buses depart from the large La Gran Terminal Nacional de Transporte de Panamá in Albrook – a modern, well-designed terminal with a shopping mall and a Metro station attached. 

Every bus route has its own dedicated ticket window. Consult the terminal website for the route operator’s name, telephone number and ticket office number. To pass through the turnstiles to the departure gates, you must pay a US$0.10 tax using the “3-in-1” Rapi-Pass card (no cash).

Purchase the card on arrival at Tocumen Airport or from a Metro station, and can also use it to pay for travel on Metrobuses and trains.

The best time to go to Panama for turtle watching and dance festivals

Tips for taking international buses across Panama’s borders

Ticabus is the main international carrier operating international bus services to San José in Costa Rica and beyond. It takes 16 to 18 hours by bus to travel from Panama City to San José; international buses typically take 1-2 hours to complete customs and immigration formalities at the Paso Canoas border crossing.

If you’re traveling light, it’s quicker to hop between local buses for the trip to San José. Take a local service from the bus terminal in David to Paso Canoas/Frontera (or Puerto Armuelles) – from here (or from nearby Ciudad Neily), long-distance Costa Rican buses connect to San José. Note that the coastal highway through Costa Rica is 4 to 5 hours quicker than the (stunning) mountain route on the old Panamerican Highway, so choose your bus route wisely.

Tourists arrive at Embera village by piragua, Panama
Motorized and pole-steered piraguas are the backbone of transport on Panama’s rivers © P A Thompson / Getty Images

Explore Panama’s rainforest rivers by piragua

Where roads are lacking, dug-out riverboats known as piraguas (or cayucos) are used. Customarily carved from the trunk of a giant ceiba tree, piraguas are commonly found on the jungle-shrouded waterways of mainland Bocas del Toro and Darién Province

The boats are traditionally punted with long sticks, but outboard motors are becoming increasingly popular. Hiring an entire boat with a driver is expensive, and the price will depend on the distance covered, the weight of the cargo, the number of passengers, the engine type and the fuel used. As a rough guide, expect to pay USD$100 to US$250 per day.   

Zip to Bocas del Toro and other islands on pangas and ferries

Motor-powered canoes are widely used to get between offshore islands in Guna Yala. For sea travel almost everywhere else, take a panga – a long, sturdy, open-hulled skiff with space for a dozen or more passengers and luggage. 

The Bocas del Toro archipelago is served by a fleet of high-powered pangas that whizz between the islands and shuttle travelers to and from the mainland port of Almirante. There’s also a daily car ferry, but only Isla Colón has paved roads. Conventional ferries connect Panama City with Taboga island and the Pearl Islands. 

Yachts frequently travel to Colombia via the Caribbean Sea; many have space for passengers and crew but always properly vet the captain and vessel before committing to a trip. Hostel noticeboards often advertise their services. Full and partial transits of the canal are also possible with Panama Marine Adventures.

Traffic heading towards the modern skyline of Panama City, Panama
Driving the busy roads of Panama City can be a daunting experience © Gualberto Becerra / Shutterstock

Hire a car to explore Panama at your leisure

Driving in Panama City is a logistical horror show, but there are many fine road trips throughout the rest of the country. Most major roads are paved but not necessarily well-maintained.

You’ll need 4WD to get off the beaten track, especially during the wet season (April to December), when there’s a heightened risk of landslides and floods. Car rental agencies are widespread in Panama City and David; you’ll pay upwards of US$35 per day for a small vehicle.

Multi-lane highways connect Panama City with Colón, and you can cross from the Pacific to the Caribbean Sea in about an hour when the traffic is clear. In western Panama, a winding transisthmian highway connects Chiriquí Province with Bocas del Toro Province, passing through spectacular scenery as it crosses over the continental divide. 

The Panamerican Highway is the nation’s principal road artery but it’s only paved as far as Yaviza in the east. The lawless forests of the Darién Gap are a no-go area for travelers and you will be detained by the police if you attempt to cross into Colombia.

18 things to know before traveling to Panama

Let the train take the strain along the Panama Canal Railway

Connecting Panama City with the Caribbean Coast terminus of Colón, the Panama Canal Railway is one of the last remaining overland passenger trains in Central America. Inaugurated in 1855, the railway was a major engineering accomplishment that predated the canal by several decades. The glass-domed train takes around an hour to cross the isthmus and there’s one service in each direction every weekday.

Avoid flying in Panama unless you really need to – the planet will thank you!

Domestic flights are comparatively expensive and they carry a hefty carbon footprint too. Panama is compact enough to get around by bus, and there are just a few remote regions that can only be accessed by plane. Air Panama operates flights to every corner of Panama including Darién, Guna Yala, the Pearl Islands, the Azuero Peninsula, Chiriquí and Bocas del Toro. Domestic flights depart from Albrook “Marcos A Gelabert” International Airport, 3.5km (2.2 miles) from Albrook bus terminal; take a taxi to get here.   

Tourists taking photos from the observation car on the Panama Canal Railway
The Panama Canal Railway offers grand views of the Panama Canal as it crosses the isthmus © Barna Tanko / Shutterstock

Why the Panama Canal Railway is my favorite way to travel in Panama

The ride lasts just an hour, but the journey on the Panama Canal Railway is one of the most memorable train journeys ever. The executive cars are fitted with sophisticated wood panels and plush seats while the tourist cars have expansive windows for observing canal infrastructure. 

After rushing through dense tracts of tangled foliage, the line emerges to bracing views of Lake Gatún steeped in early morning mist. Between the cars, there are open windows if you wish to breathe in the rainforest air.

Accessible transportation in Panama

Unlike neighboring Costa Rica, Panama is not a big destination for agencies specializing in excursions for persons with disabilities. Beyond Panama City, there’s little infrastructure for wheelchair users, and even in the capital, the terrible condition of the sidewalks makes getting around a challenge. 

Many large hotels and resorts are equipped with ramps and grab rails, and many attractions are wheelchair-friendly, but long-distance buses don’t have much space. Hiring a vehicle may be the easiest option. For more information on accessible travel, see Lonely Planet’s Accessible Travel Resources.

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The ultimate guide to England’s Jurassic Coast

Take a step back in time – some 185 million years back in time – along the wild and rugged Jurassic Coast in Southwest England.

England’s only natural World Heritage Site, this 95-mile portion of the coast has a name that indicates its geological significance. Running from Exmouth in Devon to Studland Bay in Dorset, its unique rock formations and fossil-rich cliffs amaze visitors from all over the world. And if rocks aren’t your thing, the pristine beaches, charming seaside towns and wide-ranging adventure experiences appeal to just about every kind of traveler.

Here’s all you need to know about visiting the Jurassic Coast, and the best things to do on this beautiful stretch of sand and sea.


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What is the Jurassic Coast?

To understand what makes the Jurassic Coast so special, we need to rewind a bit. Well, more than a bit: think 252 million years.

The rocks along this stretch offer an almost complete record of the Mesozoic Era (roughly 250 to 65 million years ago). They’re visible traces of the enormous environmental changes that played out over the millennia, starting with the Triassic Period (252 to 201 million years ago), when this part of Great Britain was a baking desert and the shifting of the earth’s crust deposited layers of sediment on top of each other. Moving west along the coast, you’ll find rocks formed during the Jurassic Period (201 to 145 million years ago), when the water rose to form a tropical sea.

When the sea levels fell and then rose again during the Cretaceous Period (145 to 66 million years ago), the older rocks were buried beneath newer sandstone and chalk, preserving them until millennia of erosion carved this geological layer cake into the remarkable landscapes we can see today. Fossils of creatures long extinct have also been preserved among the cliffs’ many strata, with more continually being revealed as erosion from wind and waves continues to do its thing.

Children swim on a beach in front of Durdle Door, Jurassic Coast, Dorset, England, United Kingdom
Stop for a swim in front of the iconic Durdle Door rock formation © John Harper / Getty Images

The extraordinary geology is the main attraction of the Jurassic Coast

All along the coast, this incredible history takes shape – literally – in the form of unusual rock formations and beautiful bays. The best-known attraction is Durdle Door, a 200ft-tall limestone arch over the sea linking two remote beaches, and one of Devon’s most popular spots. It’s best viewed from the coast path as you walk over the cliffs from Lulworth Cove, a perfect semi-circle of sea enclosed within bright-white chalk cliffs.

Other geological highlights of the coastline include Old Harry Rocks, chalk stacks that line up with the Needles on the Isle of Wight; the unusual rock layers of Kimmeridge Bay; and Chesil Beach, an 18-mile barrier beach linking the Isle of Portland with the mainland and forming a wildlife-rich brackish-water lagoon at the Fleet.

The towering golden cliffs at West Bay were used as a backdrop for the popular ITV series Broadchurch, while the picturesque harbor and quaint seaside town at Lyme Regis are the heart of Dorset’s fossil-hunting history.

In East Devon, don’t miss Orcombe Point Geoneedle in Exmouth, which marks the beginning of the World Heritage Site, or the distinctive red sandstone sea stacks in Ladram Bay.

Take a walk along the South West Coast Path

Running uninterrupted for 630 miles from Minehead in Somerset to Poole Harbour in Dorset, the South West Coast Path is the UK’s longest National Trail, taking in the full 95 miles of the Jurassic Coast along the way.

Depending on your speed, you can walk the whole route in about 10 days, or choose one or two sections for a shorter coast walk. Try the Golden Cap circular walk to climb the highest point on the south coast of England; hit the wild and rugged cliff paths around Portland Bill; or wander the coastal paths around the Isle of Purbeck, where you can explore disused quarries and unique wild-swimming spots.

Rocks on a beach showing fossils on Ammonite rock, Jurassic Coast, Dorset, England, United Kingdom
At low tide in Lyme Regis, you can see fossils imprinted on rocks on the beach © Andrew Pym / EyeEm / Getty Images

Look for fossils at Lyme Regis and Charmouth

Lyme Regis became a world-famous fossil hunting destination when Mary Anning discovered a near-complete ichthyosaur, a large marine reptile, here around 1836. Today, it’s still a popular spot for fossil collectors, with new finds being discovered all the time. Look out for the “Ammonite Pavement” on Monmouth Beach, when low tide exposes a rock shelf containing hundreds of fossils.

Walk along the beach between Lyme Regis and Charmouth to spot fossils lying among the shingle. Be careful, though: the beach can sometimes be cut off at high tide, and the cliffs are dangerous in places, especially after rain. Amateurs are advised to book a guided fossil-hunting tour rather than go it alone; these can be booked through the Lyme Regis Museum or the Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre.

Make a splash at Kimmeridge Bay’s rock pools

The sweeping curve at Kimmeridge Bay is part of a Marine Special Area of Conservation, making it an excellent location for snorkeling and scuba diving. But you can also explore this rich marine life on the beach itself.

The bay’s distinctive geometric rock shelves and ledges are littered with rock pools at low tide. Don’t miss the Wild Seas Centre, a small, free museum on the slipway, to learn a little more about the local marine life.

Cool off with a spot of wild swimming

Along the Jurassic Coast, experienced wild swimmers will find a wealth of exciting pools and hidden coves to plunge into. Chapman’s Pool and Worbarrow Bay offer remote beaches that can only be reached by walking. For something a little different, head to the tidal pool at Dancing Ledge, a man-made swimming pool that was blasted into a natural rock shelf in the 19th century for the enjoyment of local schoolchildren.

Snorkel with seahorses in Studland Bay

Studland Bay, just beyond the eastern end of the Jurassic Coast, is one of the only known breeding sites for both the spiny and short-snouted seahorse, making it one of the UK’s best snorkel sites. Since the tiny creatures are masters of disguise, patience is key and is often rewarded with sightings, particularly during summer. Approach slowly and take care not to disturb the seahorses or their habitat.

Passengers ride a historic tram on the track beside the Seaton wetlands, Seaton, Devon, England, United Kingdom
Passengers take in views of the wetlands and River Axe estuary from the Seaton Tramway © eye35 stock / Alamy Stock Photo

Hop aboard the historic Seaton Tramway

Take a ride back in time on board the Seaton Tramway, a network of narrow-gauge heritage trams running through the Axe Valley in East Devon. As well as a taste of history, these colorful open-top trams offer brilliant views of the River Axe estuary and Seaton Wetlands nature reserve. Keep an eye out for local birds and wildlife, including kingfishers, herons, foxes and little egrets.

Get the adrenaline pumping with a water-sports adventure

Boasting a mix of sheltered bays and more exposed beaches with great surf, the Jurassic Coast is the perfect destination for adventure. Thrill-seekers should try coasteering at Lulworth Cove for an adrenaline-pumping way to explore the cliffs and rocks. Or hop on a rigid inflatable boat (RIB) at Lyme Bay or Weymouth for a fast-paced tour of the seafront.

Old Harry Rocks, Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove are impressive backdrops for a spot of sea kayaking – though amateurs would be advised to book a guided tour as currents can be challenging. For a gentler ride, Weymouth Bay, Studland Bay and Portland Harbour are more sheltered spots – and ideal for paddleboarding.

You can also try your hand at kitesurfing, windsurfing or sailing lessons at locations along the coast (try Portland or Poole), or take a boat tour from any of the larger harbors for something less hands-on.

A seafood risotto at SEAFAST, The Dorset Seafood Festival, Jurassic Coast, England, United Kingdom
The bounty of the sea is the main event at SEAFEAST, held every September in Weymouth © Stewart Williams / 500px / Getty Images

The best times to visit the Jurassic Coast

Summer offers the best chance of nice weather for beach days and water sports on the Jurassic Coast, as well as a busy program of festivals and events to entice tourists of all interests. Note that since this is the busy season, popular spots like Bournemouth Beach and Durdle Door can be very crowded, especially during the summer school holidays.

While summer can sometimes be too hot for hiking, the spring and autumn shoulder seasons are ideal for coastal walks. Spring is especially lovely, with an array of wildflowers scattered across the grassy headlands and in woodlands. These are also the best times of year to spot both wildlife and fossils.

Numerous food and seafood festivals run along the coast throughout spring and summer. One of the biggest is SEAFEAST, the Dorset Seafood Festival, held on Weymouth’s colorful harborside in September.

Winter is overlooked by most tourists, but if you brave the unpredictable British weather you’ll find there’s still plenty to do. Seals come ashore to breed during the autumn and early-winter months, so keep an eye out when walking (briskly) along the coastal paths.

How to get to the Jurassic Coast

The closest international airports are at Bournemouth, Exeter and Southampton, although most visitors from overseas will likely fly into one of the larger London airports.

If you’re renting a car on arrival, it takes about 2 hours to drive to Bournemouth or Poole. From either of these towns, it’s easy to start a road trip along the coast, calling at whichever villages and attractions take your fancy.

Taking public transport from London to the Jurassic Coast is easy

South Western Railway runs a service from London Waterloo to Weymouth that takes just under 3 hours. From Weymouth, you can use the X53 and X54 Jurassic Coaster buses from First Bus to travel to most towns between Poole and Axminster.

The train from London also stops at Bournemouth and Poole, which place you closer to the eastern end of the Jurassic Coast. From here, you can use the Purbeck Breezer services to reach Studland and the Isle of Purbeck.

The best way to explore the Jurassic Coast is by car

The easiest way to explore the Jurassic Coast is by car, but bear in mind that some of the more remote destinations are accessed by narrow country lanes and may have limited parking.

Many of the busier towns, such as Weymouth and Bournemouth, operate park-and-ride services during summer. Use these to avoid getting caught in seaside traffic in the town centers.

The Jurassic Coast also has an extensive public transport network for those who want to explore without a car. Bus services are fairly frequent and call at most of the major destinations. The Jurassic Coaster buses (First Bus X52, X53 and X54) run between Axminster and Poole, while the Purbeck Breezer (More Bus) services connect Bournemouth and Poole with Swanage, Wareham and the Isle of Purbeck.

There are many accommodation options on the Jurassic Coast

With 95 miles of coastline to explore, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to choosing a place to stay on the Jurassic Coast.

The largest town around, Weymouth is well connected to the delights of the coast in both directions, making it a good base for exploring the area. Numerous beachfront hotels are close to all the bars and restaurants of the lively town center, while families might want to consider the popular Waterside Holiday Park and Spa on the town outskirts. For those on a budget, the clifftop campsite at nearby Eweleaze Farm boasts some excellent views.

The quaint seaside town of Swanage is ideally poised for exploring Studland Bay and the entire Isle of Purbeck, with accommodation options ranging from a YHA hostel to cosy B&Bs. In nearby Studland, luxury boutique hotel The Pig on the Beach is known for its top-quality restaurant and dazzling sea views.

Towards the eastern end of the Jurassic Coast, Lyme Regis is another popular seaside town with a range of hotels and accommodation options, while Sidmouth offers up the grandeur of a Victorian seaside resort.

For something a little different, try glamping at Durdle Door or in a Lyme Regis beach hut. Fans of quirky history will likely enjoy the Smuggler’s Inn at Studland, a cosy boutique inn and pub which was once a hangout for an infamous local smuggling gang.

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Seville Cathedral | Guide For The Average Traveler

The Seville Cathedral is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the largest Gothic cathedral in the world, and a Spanish national monument. Its imposing structure can be seen from all over the city, and it’s certainly among the most popular things to do in Seville. There are many things to see and do inside Seville Cathedral …

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Author: Louisa Moje

The best places to visit in Massachusetts for history, beaches and witches

For a small state, Massachusetts punches far above its weight for its place in American history and culture.

Given the state’s outsize contributions to the arts, science, technology, sports and politics, it’s jam-packed with memorable sites, top-tier educational institutions and world-class museums. It’s also beautiful, from the wave-pounded Atlantic coast to the forest-covered Berkshires to vibrant cities and charming small towns.

Massachusetts’ compact nature makes it easy to explore, yet it would be impossible to do everything the state has to offer. Depending on your time and interests, you could make a grand sweep through the state, sampling its diverse regions or pick a hub to explore in depth. However you proceed, these are the best places to visit in Massachusetts.


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Start in Boston, with museums, sports and urban nature 

From the Freedom Trail to Fenway Park, the Italian food of the North End to the Venetian palazzo–style Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, Boston’s attractions are legendary. 

A hub of American history that’s infused with a passion for sports and the arts, Boston brims with character. Next to the city’s iconic sites, diverse neighborhoods and artistic and architectural treasures are lesser-known attractions like the Boston Harbor Islands, a mix of history and nature, and the Black Heritage Trail, which provides insight into Boston’s 19th-century Black community.

Low-angle view of the Ray and Maria Stata Center at MIT (Massachusetts Institute of Technology), Cambridge, Massachusetts, New England, USA
The campuses of Cambridge contain leafy quads and cutting-edge architecture, like the Frank Gehry–designed Ray and Maria Stata Center at MIT © Elijah Lovkoff / Shutterstock

Enjoy intellectual pursuits and diverse dining in Cambridge

A multicultural city with an eclectic mix of shops and restaurants, Cambridge is home to two of the country’s most prestigious institutions of higher education, the Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT) and Harvard University.  

Though you can’t “pahk ya cah in Hahvahd Yahd,” you can stroll across its leafy quads, explore the excellent campus museums and soak in the intellectual atmosphere.

Further west, Mt Auburn Cemetery contains the graves of dozens of famous figures such as Clement Morgan (founder of the NAACP), Eleanor Porter (author of Pollyanna) and Joyce Chen (restaurateur and TV personality). Mt Auburn is also a magnet for bird-watchers, especially during the spring migration. 

Get witchy with it in Salem

Best known for the infamous 1692 witch trials, Salem draws crowds with its witch-related attractions. Yet this small and charming city has much more to offer.

Visit the Salem Maritime National Historical Park to learn about its past as a leading 18th- and 19th-century seaport. And be sure to explore the outstanding Peabody Essex Museum, a treasure trove of objects seafarers brought back from far corners of the world.

Don’t miss the House of the Seven Gables, which dates from 1668 and inspired one of Salem-born author Nathaniel Hawthorne’s best-known novels. And for more historic architecture, wander through the McIntire District, filled with well-preserved homes spanning 400 years of building styles. 

Wave crash on the rocks near Eastern Point Lighthouse on the eastern tip of Massachusetts, Gloucester Harbor, Gloucester, Massachusetts, New England, USA
Cape Ann has some of the most rugged and beautiful coastline in New England © Denis Tangney Jr / Getty Images

Admire the scenic coastline of Cape Ann

Located in the northeastern part of the state, Cape Ann has an identity intimately tied to the sea: think beautiful beaches, great seafood – the fried clam was invented in Essex – scenic harbors and lighthouses and coastal parks. Founded in 1623, the city of Gloucester is the oldest fishing port in the United States and a top whale-watching destination, with tours operating from April to October. 

Along the harbor, the gripping Gloucester Fisherman’s Memorial and Fishermen’s Wives Memorial honors those lost to the sea over the centuries, as well as the strong women who kept families and the community going. 

Seek out revolutionary and literary landmarks in historic Middlesex County

The peaceful, affluent suburbs northwest of Boston may not look like hotbeds of revolution now, but they played an integral role in shaping the USA. Dozens of sites in Lexington, Lincoln and Concord commemorate the dramatic events of April 19, 1775, when armed clashes between British regulars and Colonial militiamen sparked the American Revolutionary War. Concord was also the home of several prominent 19th-century American authors, including such luminaries as Ralph Waldo Emerson, Louisa May Alcott, Nathaniel Hawthorne and Henry David Thoreau. 

Further north, Lowell’s textile mills and factories were at the heart of a different revolution: the Industrial Revolution. A host of significant locations are preserved in Lowell National Historical Park, including the Boott Cotton Mills Museum, where visitors can recreate working in a weave room in the 1920s. 

Plymouth is best for early colonial history

The city of Plymouth is made for US history buffs. Climb aboard the Mayflower II, a full-scale replica of the original ship that brought the first English colonists to Massachusetts’ shores in 1620.

And don’t forget Plymouth Rock, the famous (if rather underwhelming) boulder that the Pilgrims supposedly landed. The Pilgrim Hall Museum houses original artifacts from the early settlement, including personal possessions like a cradle, cupboards, a razor kit and one silk shoe.   

At the Plimouth Patuxet Museums, costumed interpreters bring the past to life at four sites, including a 17th-century English village and a Wampanoag Native American home site. 

Female friends walking in marram grass with picnic baskets, Cape Cod, Massachusetts, New England, USA
Cape Cod’s gorgeous dunes are wonderful for hikes, bike rides, picnics and more © Image Source / Getty Images

Find glorious beaches and classic summer fun in Cape Cod 

Cape Cod calls up images of sandy dunes, long curves of beach, picturesque lighthouses, cranberry bogs and kettle ponds. 

Much of the outer Cape is protected as the Cape Cod National Seashore and offers a wealth of recreational opportunities and wildlife spotting. Nature lovers will also love the Wellfleet Bay Wildlife Sanctuary and its trails through woodland and salt marsh, and Nickerson State Park, with its campgrounds and swimming areas.

Make a preppy getaway to Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket

South of Cape Cod, Martha’s Vineyard and Nantucket are islands containing quaint towns, gingerbread-style wood houses, intriguing museums, lovely beaches, lighthouses and wildlife refuges. It’s no wonder many well-known artists, authors and even a few US presidents have found comfort among the sweeping dunes on these islands. 

Their permanent populations swell significantly in summer (the high season) with the influx of seasonal residents and short-term visitors. Book lodging – and ferry tickets, if you want to bring a car – well in advance.

Feast on seafood and seafaring history in New Bedford

Situated on the shore of Buzzards Bay, New Bedford is called “the city that lit the world” for its central role in the 19th-century whaling industry. The New Bedford Whaling Museum and New Bedford Whaling National Historical Park explore this past and such other topics as natural history, conservation, immigration, cultural diversity and New Bedford’s important role as an abolitionist hub on the Underground Railroad. 

If whaling’s not your thing, New Bedford is also home to the well-presented Fort Taber-Fort Rodman Military Museum, a thriving arts community and the largest Portuguese-speaking population in the USA. The city teems with seafood restaurants and hosts the world’s largest Portuguese cultural festival, the Feast of the Blessed Sacrament

Worcester is great for families 

Worcester is New England’s second-largest city, and its attractions include the excellent Worcester Art Museum, the family-friendly EcoTarium, a thriving craft brewery scene and the minor-league Worcester Red Sox baseball team.  

West of the city is the Old Sturbridge Village, a recreated 1830s New England town filled with more than 40 restored buildings spread over 200 acres. Re-enactors teach the history of the village and the roles everyday folks played in it. Moore State Park, located in Paxon and northwest of Worcester, is an 18th-century mill village on 400 acres filled with trails for hiking, cross country skiing and hunting. 

The Berkshires offer endless outdoor adventures

In westernmost Massachusetts, The Berkshires enchant with a delightful mix of natural beauty, cultural attractions and year-round outdoor recreation. 

The region hosts world-class performing arts events in warmer months like the Tanglewood Music Festival, Jacob’s Pillow Dance Festival and Williamstown Theatre Festival. Art lovers won’t want to miss the Norman Rockwell Museum, the Clark Art Institute or Mass MoCA

The many interesting historic houses in the region include the birthplaces of activists Susan B. Anthony and W.E.B. DuBois, the homes of authors Edith Wharton and Herman Melville, and Naumkeag, a Gilded Age mansion and gardens. 

With the arrival of autumn, glorious fall foliage cloaks the hills and mountains, drawing leaf peepers galore, followed by winter-sports enthusiasts as soon as there’s enough snow.

Thing 1 and Thing 2 are jumping out in a sculpture group at the Dr Seuss National Memorial Sculpture Garden, Springfield, Massachusetts, New England, USA
The Amazing World of Dr Seuss museum celebrates the life and work of Springfield’s most famous son © 26ShadesOfGreen / Shutterstock

Soak in the college-town vibes of the Pioneer Valley

A creative spirit flourishes along the Connecticut River in western Massachusetts, a region with numerous top-notch educational institutions and museums surrounded by gorgeous scenery. In Amherst, highlights include the home of poet Emily Dickinson and the Eric Carle Museum of Picture Book Art

In Springfield, The Amazing World of Dr Seuss celebrates the city’s most famous native son, while the Naismith Memorial Basketball Hall of Fame is an essential stop for fans of the sport invented here in 1891.

Stop in Historic Deerfield Village for a taste of 18th-century life or visit Dinosaur Footprints for a trip much farther back in time. Stroll across the Bridge of Flowers in Shelburne Falls, then take to one of the region’s many excellent hiking trails boasting panoramic views of verdant mountains, farmland and the winding river.

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The 15 best things to do in Kraków: historic sites, great nightlife and tasty street food

Crowned with an impressive royal castle and dotted with church spires and world-class museums, Kraków combines the historic with the cosmopolitan.

The streets of former Jewish quarter Kazimierz and nearby Auschwitz are sobering reminders of 20th-century tragedy, while the crowds thronging Kraków’s main square and the restaurants lining photogenic Old Town lanes buzz with 21st-century joie de vivre. Alongside heavy-hitting attractions exist simpler local pleasures: strolling alongside the Vistula River, dining on hearty home-style cooking in a retro bar mleczny (cafeteria), catching a local band at a legendary dive bar, enjoying a coffee in hipster enclave Tytano. Here are the best things to do in Kraków.

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Wawel Cathedral in Krakow shot from below during summer day
Wawel Cathedral holds the tombs of many of Poland’s kings and queens © iStockphoto / Getty Images

Visit Wawel Royal Castle and Wawel Cathedral

Overlooking Old Town from its Wawel Hill perch, the seat of Polish royalty for centuries is the city’s most impressive sight, not to mention the symbol of Poland and the source of local pride. Red-roofed, turreted, and ringed by a red-brick wall, this 16th-century Renaissance palace is merely the latest incarnation: royal residences on this very spot have come and gone (burned down, extended, vandalized by Swedish and Prussian armies…) since the 11th-century.

Highlights include the 16th-century tapestries and carved wooden heads in the grand State Rooms, the Royal Private Apartments that give you an intimate glimpse into the monarchs’ private lives, the Crown Jewels in the Treasury and the Szczerbiec (Jagged Sword) that’s played an essential role in Polish coronations from 1320 onwards – find it inside the vaulted Gothic armory. 

Give yourself plenty of time to visit the adjoining Wawel Cathedral, where many of Poland’s kings and queens are seeing out eternity in elaborate tombs, alongside the bones allegedly belonging to the legendary Wawel dragon. The grounds are free to visit, but it’s a really good idea to book tickets for exhibits you want to see at least two weeks ahead due to their enormous popularity.

Explore Główny Rynek above and below the ground

Surrounded by restaurants and overlooked by handsome centuries-old buildings, Główny Rynek (Main Market Square) is the focal point of Old Town, as well as Europe’s largest medieval town square. After you’re done browsing the wares inside the market building, go back to the Middle Ages by descending to the medieval-meets-the-21st-century museum beneath the square.

Clever multimedia displays, holograms and animated puppets show you medieval markets stalls and teach you about vampire prevention burials. Buy your timed ticket online in advance. Free entry on Tuesdays; closed second Monday of each month.

 The entrance of the notorious Auschwitz, a former Nazi extermination camp and now a museum. Above the gate are the words arbeit macht frei ('Work sets you free')
Visiting Auschwitz is a very moving experience © Getty Images

Pay your respects at Auschwitz-Birkenau

You don’t know what will touch you particularly deeply until you get there. For some, it’s the “Death Block” with its torture cells and its crematorium. For others, it’s the gas chambers and the endless rows of crematoria chimneys at Birkenau, where most of the mass killings occurred. For others still, it’s the mountains of eyeglasses and prosthetic limbs, the mass of human hair collected from victims to be used in textile production, and piles of battered suitcases with home addresses written on them by those for whom this Nazi extermination camp became their final destination. 

In any case, Auschwitz is unlikely to leave you unmoved. More than a million Jews, as well as numerous Poles and Roma, were systematically killed here between 1940 and 1945, and the death camps have been preserved as a brutal, essential history lesson.  

Auschwitz is reachable by bus, train and organized day tour from Kraków. While solo travelers can visit the site without a guide, it’s well worth joining a tour to get the most out of it, from the screening of the graphic 1945 documentary film by the Soviet liberators to the exhibitions in the barracks.

Take a stroll through Kazimierz

Southeast of Old Town, Kazimierz neighborhood had been Poland’s most important center of Jewish culture for 500 years, until mass deportation and extermination of Kraków’s Jews by the Nazis destroyed it. Largely rundown during the Communist era, Kazimierz has bounced back in recent years. 

A stroll through its streets is a wonderful way to get to know its historic sights, from the restored Old Synagogue and a 19th-century Jewish cemetery with surviving tombstones, to the Moorish-style Temple Synagogue and the sobering Galicia Jewish Museum that traces the history of Jews in Kraków. Browse the flea markets on Plac Nowy on the weekends, or attend a film screening or concert at Cheder during the Jewish Culture Festival.

Wooden stairways and pillars in a passageway in a salt mine
Visitors have been coming to Wieliczka Salt Mine for over 300 years © iStockphoto / Getty Images

Head underground into the Wieliczka Salt Mine

Another massively popular attraction that’s not actually in Kraków proper but is easily reachable from the city, this Unesco-certified subterranean labyrinth of passages and chambers has been drawing visitors since the 1720s. It’s not for the claustrophobic: as part of a “tourist” tour, first-timers descend at least 125m (410ft) below the ground and spend two hours in the depths of the former mine, while return visitors can opt for a more immersive miners’ tour. 

Highlights include an underground lake, chapels adorned with statues carved from the white stuff, and a salt cathedral with chandeliers. And yes, everything around you is carved from salt; we licked the wall so that you wouldn’t have to. Wieliczka is easily reached from Kraków by bus, train or tour. Pack a sweater.

Visit Schindler’s factory

You’re likely to have heard of Oscar Schindler, the German industrialist immortalized in Steven Spielberg’s 1993 film Schindler’s List. During WWII, Schindler saved more than a thousand Jewish inhabitants of the Podgorzé ghetto from deportation to the death camps by employing them at his enamel factory. This factory-turned-museum, which was part of the Schindler’s List film set, was given a major face lift in 2010 and became one of Kraków’s must-visit museums. Book your timed slot online at least three days in advance (it’s hugely popular!), and don’t miss the superb permanent exhibition Kraków During Nazi Occupation 1939-1945 that tells the story of everyday life, underground resistance, and anti-Semitic repressions in the city during WWII.  

Chefs cooking and serving traditional Polish hot food at a market in Krakow
Try some signature Polish sausage © Getty Images

Chow down on street food

Many cities have signature street food. Paris has its croissants, Hanoi has its banh mi, Vienna has its käsekrainer, and Kraków has its obwarzanek. Chewy, moreish, and topped either with poppy seeds or sesame seeds, Kraków’s bagels are found at stalls on every corner in Old Town, and locals will tell you which stall is likely to have the fresher lot. 

But there’s more to Kraków’s street dining than bagels. For the best kielbasa (signature Polish sausage) in town, head for the Kiełbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski van in front of the Hala Targowa market on ul. Grzegorzecka. Then there’s zapiekanka – half a baguette topped with melted cheese, mushrooms, and a squirt of ketchup. Poland’s answer to pizza was invented in the 1970s, when basic ingredients were all you could get, but now versions with fancier toppings are ubiquitous at fast food stands. For numerous zapiekanka sellers under one roof, try the Okrąglak food court at Plac Nowy in Kazimierz.

Go Communist in Nowa Huta

If you want to see how steel workers lived in the 1950s, catch a tram #4 or #10 from central Kraków to this masterpiece of socialist-realist urban planning and Communist architecture in the east of the city. If wandering around the uniformly grey, identical blocks of flats isn’t enough of a draw, take a tour of Nowa Huta in a vintage, Communist-era Trabant with Crazy Guides, who’ll take you down into the old nuclear-fallout shelters and ply you with vodka.

Rock out with Kraków’s best nightlife at Klub Awaria 

Klub Awaria is the kind of dingy dive bar that your mother warned you about: a sticky-floored, vaulted-ceilinged saloon where the carpe-diem clientele will gladly press a drink into a sober stranger’s hand to help them participate in the mildly anarchic nightly revelry. Up-and-coming local blues and rock bands perform on the little stage most nights and after the band is done, there’s occasional dancing on the tables and on the bar itself by regulars to Tina Turner classics.

Walk or cruise along the Vistula

The slow-flowing Vistula River bisects the city. Join locals during their morning runs along the footpaths that run alongside the river banks for several kilometers from near Wawel Royal Castle to the city’s eastern suburbs, skirting Kazimierz on the way. Alternatively, if you have local friends, you might be invited aboard a party boat with a full bar and music system; these are available for hire by groups and are essentially floating nightclubs. More easily accessible are hour-long cruises that depart below Wawel Castle Hill, that show off the city’s important landmarks, such as the Dębnicki Bridge, the Norbertine Monastery, the Manggha Museum of Japanese Art and Technology, and the Piłsudski Bridge.

People relax around the edges of a lagoon with some swimmers in it
Zakrzowek is a former quarry turned swim spot © Getty Images

Go for a swim in Zakrzowek

Tall limestone cliffs and dense pine forest surround this lagoon with its clear, turquoise waters that feels a million miles away from urban life, even though it’s only a short tram ride (#1; #4) to Kapelanka, southwest of Old Town. The lagoon began its life as a limestone quarry but it was deliberately flooded in 1990 after falling into disuse. It then became a popular swimming and picnicking spot for locals. It’s currently undergoing renovations that won’t be complete until 2023, so you can’t swim or dive here at the moment, but it’s perfect for a scenic picnic and some really lovely out-of-town hiking.

Dine out at a bar mleczny

Cheap, cheerful, and with seriously retro decor, a bar mleczny is a time-warp step behind the Iron Curtain into 1980s Poland – in a good way. Dotted around the city, bar melczny are dirt-cheap cafeteria, where you’ll be rubbing shoulders with locals while you load up your tray with soup, pierogi (filled dumplings), placki ziemniaczane (potato pancakes), and other hearty, belly-warming staples – all without dropping more than 10zl (around US$2). There’s a branch at Grodzka 43 in Old Town and another at Starowiślna 29 in Kazimierz.

Summit Kopiec Kościuszki 

When you’re standing on Wawel Hill, you may notice lump-like green hills surrounding Kraków. The origins of Kraków Mounds are lost in the mists of time, but it’s believed that the oldest – Kopiec Krakusa and Wandy – were built by pagan tribes several millennia ago as part of some solar calendar: during the summer solstice, the sun rises at Wandy and sets at Krakusa. Kopiec Kościuszki is a newer mound, completed in 1823 to commemorate a fallen Polish general. Catch bus #100 to the mound for fantastic views of Wawel Castle, St Mary’s Basilica, and Główny Rynek.

Spend your night out finding a “lost bar”

Other cities have speakeasies, while Kraków has its “lost bars”. It’s the same idea, even though Kraków’s hidden drinking dens are a recent development. Head to the Smakolyki restaurant on Floriana Straszewskiego, find your way to the cloakroom and pass through to a hidden courtyard from which you enter Mercy Brown. It’s 1920s Kraków – all velvet couches, mood lighting, chandeliers, and cocktails from a bygone era (gin with jasmine tea cordial, anyone?). Entertainment includes burlesque shows.

Mingle with local hipsters in Tytano

Just west of Old Town, a decrepit former tobacco factory has been transformed into a pocket of hipsterdom, complete with art studios, exhibitions spaces, beer gardens, and brunch cafes that attract Kraków’s young and cool contingent. Check out the latest photography exhibition or fashion event, then grab a coffee from Kraków’s speciality roasters at Bonjour Cava.

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