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Detroiters Have a Newly Restored Michigan Central Station to Be Thankful for This Holiday Season
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How to Build Cross-Cultural Connections Over Food This Holiday Season
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The Italian Town That Becomes a Giant, Goose-Themed Board Game Each Fall
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10 things to know before traveling to Peru
Peru is a megadiverse country, offering countless adventures and cultural experiences for the intrepid – as well as potentially endless head-scratching and headache-inducing occurrences for the uninformed traveler.
Whether you plan to stay put in the capital or venture on a circuit through each geographical region, it’s always advantageous to have local insight. Here are some of the top things to know before traveling to Peru.
1. Peru’s only international airport is in Lima
Until the Chinchero Airport (a 45-minute drive from Cuzco) is finished, all international air passengers to Peru will first touch land in the metropolitan area of Lima, via the Jorge Chávez International Airport.
From the airport to San Isidro, Miraflores or Barranco – neighboring districts of Lima that make up the capital’s tourist-friendly trifecta – it’s usually a 40-minute taxi ride outside of rush hour.
Don’t try to pick up a taxi outside of arrivals nor from the chaotic street just beyond the airport limit; instead, choose from any of the authorized companies represented just after customs. For travelers on a budget, the safest option is the Airport Express Lima bus (with transfers to and from Miraflores only).
2. The shoulder months are the best time to visit Cuzco
The Cuzco region has two marked seasons: the rainy season (November to April) and the dry (May to October). When the rain is in full effect, areas like the idyllic Sacred Valley turn lush with native crops and tourism is comparatively low.
That said, the wet climate makes the period between January and March especially difficult (and even dangerous, in some cases) for epic hikes.
The dry months are ideal for trekking and most adventure sports – though as a direct correlation, tourism is at its highest then. The best time to visit Cuzco? Aim for the shoulder months, just before the rain (October) or at its tail end (May).
3. Book well in advance for Machu Picchu, Huayna Picchu and the Inca Trail
Is it possible to snag last-minute entry tickets to Machu Picchu? Sure, it can happen – but as Peru’s most popular tourist attraction, it doesn’t make sense to risk it.
Purchase your entry ticket at least one month in advance, especially if planning to visit the Unesco World Heritage Site between June and August (the busiest months for international visitors).
While you’re at it, consider adding on the entry to Huayna Picchu, the tall peak that appears behind the citadel in classic Machu Picchu photos. Only 200 visitors a day are able to make the steep, hour-long ascent that leads to a privileged bird’s eye view of the archaeological site.
Cuzco’s dry months are also the high season for one of Peru’s most epic hikes, the Inca Trail. This trek requires a permit that can only be purchased through an organized tour. Keep in mind the trail closes every February for maintenance.
4. In Peru, just one cheek kiss will do to say hello or goodbye
For some travelers, Peru’s salutation may seem too close for comfort, while others – we’re looking at you, Italians – will see it as half-finished.
When meeting or greeting someone of the opposite sex or in the case of two women, Peruvians will offer an air kiss on one side of the face. Call it a lingering effect of machismo culture, but men typically greet each other with a simple handshake and hug.
Don’t try to enter or leave a party without greeting everyone, be it with a hug or air kiss, as that will appear disrespectful.
5. Keep soles and centimos on hand, especially outside of major tourist zones
Credit card acceptance and even payment applications are commonplace in bustling cities, like Lima and Cuzco, though you will want to keep local currency (sol) on hand at all times.
You can’t miss a visit to open-air markets, such as those in Lima’s Surquillo neighborhood and the San Pedro market in Cuzco, where vendors prefer cash. While at the market, pick up a small coin purse as public transportation and restrooms run on pocket change.
And for towns outside of the typical tourist circuit – think Tumbes in the north or Ayacucho in south-central Peru – cash on hand is a must.
6. Tipping may not be a local custom, but that doesn’t mean you shouldn’t
When it comes to dining out in Peru, there is no standard for tipping. That said, Peru’s tipping culture (or lack thereof) should be an exception to the rule of “do as the locals do.” As a visitor, go ahead and leave your waiter, barista or hostess a tip that seems appropriate to you.
7. No, your watch doesn’t need to be reset, it’s just the “hora Peruana”
La hora Peruana (Peruvian time) refers to the stereotype of Peruvians showing up late – not just 15 minutes late but upwards of an hour late.
The phrase is tossed around amongst Peruvians and expats alike, as we’ve all struggled with that landlord, friend or coworker who says they’ll be there in the morning and are a no-show until after lunch.
Of course, la hora Peruana is a generalization, but it’s best to be mentally prepared in case someone you made plans with doesn’t show up on the dot…or anywhere close to it.
8. Keep spare toilet paper in your pocket – but never flush it!
Public restrooms in Peru are infamous with international travelers. From seatless toilets to humble holes in the ground, we’ve seen it all, but those squeamish moments are nothing you can’t survive.
Follow bathroom etiquette and toss toilet paper in the wastebasket rather than flush it. Public restrooms usually aren’t stocked with toilet paper, so keep a travel-size roll in your day bag, or be prepared to pay 50 cents for a few squares upon entry.
9. Eat and drink with your gut health in mind
Let’s be honest, Peru likely became your destination of choice partly because of the reputation and recognition of its gastronomic scene.
Your senses will be tantalized by the unique kick of ají pepper in a ceviche, the sounds of sizzling suri (palm-weevil larvae) or the pink froth topping a glass of frutillada (traditional chicha, or fermented corn beer, blended with strawberries) – classic street-food items, depending on which region of Peru you’re visiting.
When it comes to street food – and especially drinks, as Peru does not have clean tap water – there’s always a risk for “travelers’ stomach.” If you have any doubt, play it safe and wait until you get to a recommended restaurant to try that dish you’ve been eyeing.
10. Take a full day (if not two) to acclimate before any high-altitude activity
No matter how much physical training you’ve accomplished at sea level prior to your trip, arriving at high-altitude destinations like Cuzco – 3399m (11,152ft) above sea level – can be brutal.
And what could be worse than dizziness, nausea and other symptoms of soroche (altitude sickness) keeping you from bucket-list hikes, such as Vinicunca, better known as Rainbow Mountain, 5200m (17,060ft) above sea level?
When planning your trip, include a day or two to acclimate before starting any physically demanding activity. Stay hydrated and avoid heavy food and alcohol. And whether or not you decide to take altitude pills, consider local remedies, such as muña tea and coca leaves.
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8 stunning day trips from Lucerne, Switzerland
Encircled by mountains of myth and sitting astride the shores of its eponymous lake of bluest blue, Lucerne is every bit as gorgeous as it was back in the 19th century when Goethe, Wagner and Queen Victoria eulogised its beauty. Slow travel comes naturally here, with boats, trains and cable cars breezing across the lake and up to nearby Alpine heights. From the birthplace of the nation to sky-scraping glaciers, here’s our pick of the best days out from Lucerne.
Float on the jewel-colored waters of Lake Uri
Switzerland heart in every possible sense of the word, Lake Lucerne’s southernmost arm, Lake Uri, is its most ravishing. At times as narrow as a fjord, Lake Uri’s jewel-colored green-blue waters give way to forested cliffs and peaks that rise sheer and rugged.
Cruise these waters and you’ll glimpse Rütli Meadow, hallowed birthplace of the Swiss Confederation as the spot where the Oath of Eternal Allegiance was signed in 1291. Nearby is the Tellskapelle, a little chapel ensconced in woods, where the apple-shooting hero and Swiss rebel William Tell is said to have leaped to safety from the boat of his Hapsburg captor, Gessler.
Myths abound, too, at the Schillerstein, a near 30m-high natural obelisk jutting up above the lake. Its inscription pays homage to Friedrich Schiller, the author of the play William Tell.
How to reach Lake Uri: Boat is the way to go to really see Lake Uri. Take SGV’s regular ferry service from Brunnen to Flüelen (44 minutes). Trains link Lucerne to Brunnen (46 minutes) and Flüelen (one hour).
Hike waterfalls and high-Alpine moors in Meiringen
Tucked away in the eastern corner of Switzerland’s Bernese Oberland region, Meiringen has a phenomenally beautiful backyard, with hiking and cycling trails leading to wild valleys, waterfalls and high-Alpine moors.
Get an early train for time to see both of its big-hitting natural wonders. First up is the 250m-high Reichenbach Falls, which plummets over sheer, wooded cliff faces with a deafening roar. You can see how author Arthur Conan Doyle thought it the perfect backdrop for a dramatic finale: in The Final Problem, he pushed both Sherlock Holmes and Dr. Moriarty over the precipice here.
The Aare Gorge is just as riveting, with tunnels and galleries wending past milky-blue torrents and limestone overhangs.
Stay for more than a day to delve deeper into the Hasli Valley – to see the Triftbrücke, Europe’s highest (100m) and longest (170m) suspension bridge, dangling precariously over the Trift Glacier, for instance, or the waterfall-laced glacier gorge of Rosenlaui.
How to reach Meiringen: Meiringen is a 50-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A8. There are hourly trains to Meiringen (1 hour 10 minutes).
Climb Mt Pilatus on the world’s steepest cog railway
Mountains and valleys seem to ripple into infinity from the 2128m peak of Mt Pilatus, where the restless ghost of Roman prefect Pontius Pilate is said to roam. As the legend goes, his corpse was thrown into a lake at the summit and he has haunted these parts ever since – hence the name.
Reached by the world’s steepest cog railway since 1889, with a gradient of 48%, the mountain is an easy and insanely scenic day trip from Lucerne. Getting here would have been more of an effort back in the 19th century when Wagner waxed lyrical about Pilatus’ views and Queen Victoria trotted up here on horseback. But the exhilarating views on the walking trail are little changed: reaching across the lake, deep into the Swiss Alps and as far as Germany’s Black Forest on clear days.
How to reach Mt Pilatus: From May to October, you can reach Mt Pilatus on a “golden round-trip” day excursion, a combination of boat, cogwheel railway, cable car and bus.
Witness a blazing sunrise or sunset from Mt Rigi
Puckering up between lakes Lucerne and Zug, the 1797m peak of Mt Rigi is well known for its blazing sunrises and sunsets. Turner was so smitten with the outlook and the singular quality of the light that in 1842 he painted the mountain in watercolors at three different times of day (Blue Rigi, Dark Rigi and Red Rigi).
Europe’s oldest mountain railway – celebrating its 150th anniversary in 2021 – hauls you to the summit, where the view is extraordinary, stretching across both lakes to Mt Titlis and the glaciated peaks of the Jungfrau massif. On clear days, you can see 24 of Switzerland’s 26 cantons. There’s terrific high-level hiking up here in summer on 120km of marked trails, as well as low-key skiing, snowshoeing and sledding in winter.
If you’d prefer a swim or massage with a sublime view, head over to the Mario Botta-designed Mineralbad & Spa Rigi Kaltbad.
How to reach Mt Rigi: Frequent trains run to Vitznau (one hour) and Goldau (32 minutes), where you can connect with cogwheel railways to Rigi Kulm (32 minutes and 44 minutes respectively).
Head to Brunnen for paragliding, sailing and kitesurfing
Cradled in the folds of jagged mountains, where Lake Lucerne narrows as it turns sharply south, Brunnen’s quayside is quite the Alpine dream. Turner was so impressed by the view while sojourning here that he painted The Bay of Uri from Brunnen in 1841. When the föhn wind sweeps down from the peaks, conditions are ideal for sports on and above the water: from sailing to paragliding, windsurfing and kitesurfing. Should you fancy a walk instead, hook onto a section of the 35km, two-day Swiss Path around Lake Uri.
Not only the surrounding peaks offer knife-edge perspectives. Victorinox hails from these parts and the Swiss Knife Valley Museum tells you all about it, with a fascinating romp through the history of knives. The highlight, however, is the chance to build your own Swiss Army Knife (a process of just 15 minutes).
How to reach Brunnen: Brunnen is a 40-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A4, or take one of the regular trains (45 minutes to one hour).
Try winter skiing or high-altitude hiking at Engelberg
As if cupped in celestial hands, Engelberg (literally “Angel Mountain”) wings you straight to Alpine heaven with its ragged backdrop of glacier-streaked peaks punching well above the 3000m mark. When the flakes fall in winter, skiers and boarders descend on the resort, eager to make fresh tracks in off-piste powder. In summer, these mountains offer mile upon joyous mile of high-altitude hikes.
The icing on the cake is 3238m, glacier-topped Mt Titlis, Central Switzerland’s tallest mountain, home to the world’s first revolving cable car, which soars above the deeply crevassed ice. With Alps as far as the eye can see, views from the top are staggering, especially if you brave the Cliff Walk, Europe’s highest suspension bridge. Get an early start to avoid the glacier is at its busiest.
How to reach Engelberg: Engelberg is a 40-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A2. There are hourly fast trains linking Lucerne to Engelberg (43 minutes).
Ride the funicular and summit Stanserhorn
Flinging up to the south of Lucerne, Stanserhorn is one of the easiest and quickest ways to get high above the lake. From the 1898m summit, an intricate tapestry of mountains, lakes, fields and forests unfurls. Getting there is half the fun, involving a quaintly old-fashioned ride in an 1893 funicular to Kälti, where the double-decker CabriO cable car takes over, swinging up another 1100m in just 6½ minutes. This is the world’s first cable car with a roofless upper deck and it can get mighty breezy up top.
At the summit, there are plenty of big-view hiking trails and hang-gliding and paragliding when conditions allow. The Stanserhorn Rangers give the inside scoop on everything from wildflowers to where to spot eagles and marmots.How to reach Stanserhorn: Stanserhorn is a 25-minute drive south of Lucerne via the A2. Frequent trains make the same journey in 13 minutes. From here, a funicular rises to the summit from mid-April to early November.
Join pilgrims visiting Einsiedeln from afar
When Lucerne is rammed on summer weekends, Einsiedeln, hidden away at the end of a valley and framed by gentle wooded hills, makes a peaceful day trip. Pilgrims come from afar to this small town, which is Switzerland’s answer to Lourdes. According to legend, the Bishop of Constance tried to consecrate the original monastery in AD 964, but was interrupted by a heavenly voice, declaring: “Desist. God himself has consecrated this building.”
Whether or not you believe in miracles, the 18th-century Klosterkirche abbey church is magnificent, with its opulent frenzy of frescoes, stucco, marble, and gold swirls. Pilgrims pray before the tiny statue of the Black Madonna. For a view over the abbey to the hills beyond, trudge up to the Statue of St Benedikt.
How to reach Einsiedeln: Einsiedeln is an hour’s drive east of Lucerne via the A14. There are twice hourly trains (1¼ hours).
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How to get around in Mexico City
Mexico City is one of the most culturally jam-packed cities in the world. It’s also one of the largest and most heavily populated, stretching around 50km across and filled home to more than 20 million people.
Knowing how to get around the Mexican capital will help you get more out of your time in North America’s biggest city. Here are some tips for doing it as efficiently as possible.
The subway is cheap, popular and an efficient way to get around
Mexico City’s subway is one of the cheapest and most popular ways to get around. With 12 lines and 195 stations, an estimated 5.5 million people travel on it each weekday – and during peak times (7–9:30 am and 5–7:30 pm) it can certainly feel like it.
More than just a way to get from A to B, the subway stations in Mexico City sometimes have things to do. Hidalgo and Bellas Artes stations have murals and art galleries with exhibitions; there’s a cinema at Zapata, and Pino Suárez has an ancient Aztec temple as part of the station.
Tips for taking the subway: Due to crowding, passengers are prohibited from carrying large travelers’ backpacks or suitcases. The first three carriages of the metro are reserved exclusively for women and children.
You won’t need a car, especially during rush hour
Ask anyone living in Mexico City about getting around and they will be quick to complain about grid-locked traffic.
Car rental is not recommended. The city is one of the most congested in the world, with drivers spending an average of 132 hours stuck in traffic in 2022 alone. The last thing you want to do on your trip is waste time sitting in a bottleneck, so avoid traveling by car or taxi in the mid-morning, mid-afternoon and early-evening rushes.
Take taxis at night
Sometimes you might want the comfort of a cab, especially at night. Flag down one of the unmistakable white-and-pink official taxis or use a ride-hailing app like Uber, Cabify, or DiDi to get around.
With dedicated lanes, the bus is quick and affordable
Mexico City has a highly developed bus network. Thousands of buses and peseros operate from around 5am till 10pm daily, depending on the route.
Electric trolleybuses (trolebús) generally run until 11:30 pm. Only a few routes run all night, notably those along Paseo de la Reforma. Here are the different types of busses:
Pesero
Peseros (also called microbúses or combis) are gray-and-green minibusses operated by private firms. They follow fixed routes, often starting or ending at metro stations, and will stop at virtually any street corner. Route information is randomly displayed on cards attached to the windshield.
Fares are M$5 for trips of up to 3 miles (5km), and M$5.50 for 3 to 7 miles (5-12km). Add 20% to all fares between 11 pm and 6 am. Privately run green-and-yellow buses charge M$6 and M$7 for the same distances. A useful resource for route planning with the confusing number of peseros is the ViaDF website.
Metrobús
The metrobús is a wheelchair-accessible long bus that stops at metro-style stations in the middle of the street, spaced at three- to four-block intervals. Access is by prepaid smart card, issued by machines for M$10 at the entrance to the platforms, and rides cost M$6.
The rechargeable cards, which can also be used for the metro, are placed on a sensor device for entry. During crowded peak hours, the metrobús is a favorite for pickpockets. The front of the bus is for women and children only, marked out with pink seating. Most metrobús lines run from 5 am to midnight.
Top tip for the metrobús: Línea 7 is a red double-decker that rides along Paseo de la Reforma from Plaza Garibaldi, passing key sights like Monumento a la Revolución, Zona Rosa and Reforma, El Ángel, Bosque de Chapultepec, Castillo de Chapultepec, Museo Tamayo and Museo de Antropología, terminating a stop after Auditorio Nacional.
Closed on Sundays 6:30 am to 2 pm between Chapultepec and Auditorio (including Antropología), as the avenue becomes a bicycle-only zone for the Paseo Dominical.
Trolebús
Municipally operated trolebúses (trolleybuses) and full-sized cream-and-orange buses (labeled ‘RTP’) only pick up at bus stops. Fares are M$2 (M$4 for the express) regardless of distance traveled and they only accept preloaded travel cards (as used on the metro and metrobús), no cash.
Trolleybuses follow a number of the key ejes (priority roads) throughout the rest of the city. They generally run until 11:30 pm. Route maps are on the trolleybus website.
Try cycling on a Sunday
Bicycles can be a viable way to get around town and are often preferable to overcrowded, recklessly driven buses. Although careless drivers and potholes can make Mexico City cycling an extreme sport, if you stay alert and keep off the major thoroughfares, it’s manageable. The city government has encouraged bicycle use, with more bicycle-only lanes, and it’s definitely catching on.
Each Sunday (save the last Sunday of the month) the Muévete en Bici program transforms a number of major streets, such as Paseo de la Reforma, into a 57km car-free route for thousands of cyclists, dog walkers and rollerbladers to roam. Closed off to all motorized traffic from 8 am to 2 pm, it’s a great way to take in the city’s main sites.
Use the public bicycle hire system Ecobici to grab a bike from one of the 503 stations distributed across 71 neighborhoods. You will need to register online or in the Ecobici app by linking your Integrated Mobility Card and then purchase a plan for one, three or seven days (M$118; M$234; M$391 respectively for unlimited 45-minute rides. Use the app’s map to locate your nearest bike dock.
Float over the city in a cable car
In 2012, the new Cablebús system opened with two lines. The first goes from Indios Verdes to the northern neighborhoods of Cuautepec and Tlalpexco. It has halved transport time into the city center for residents and attracted tourists to this outlying area.
The second line connects the southeastern zones of Constitución de 1917 and Santa Marta. At more than 10km in length, it’s the longest public cable car line in Latin America. For M$7 you can glide in a gondola 100 feet above the traffic-laden streets whilst taking in incredible sweeping views of valleys and volcanoes.
Accessible transportation in Mexico City
Getting around Mexico City can be quite an undertaking for anyone, let alone for the more than 500,000 residents who live with a disability. The subway, for example, has notoriously limited facilities.
The most accessible public transport system by far is the Metrobús, which has priority boarding areas, elevators and ramps across almost all stations.
Many of the buses are level with the platforms to allow for easy boarding and have preferential seating and spaces for wheelchairs.
Another accessible way around the city is with Turibús, the bus tour service that offers fun and fuss-free trips around the Centro Histórico, Polanco and Chapultepec Park.
All buses have fold-down ramps and at least two reserved spaces for wheelchair users. The weekly Sunday cycle route is also a very inclusive and accessible experience for all.
Transport passes
Given the perpetual traffic issues in Mexico City, making the public transport system more appealing has become a key priority for officials.
The prepaid Tarjeta de Movilidad Integrada (Integrated Mobility Card) was introduced in 2019 allowing travelers to travel on trains, buses, cable cars and bikes using a single card.
Purchase the card at a ticket office or machine in any metro or Metrobús station for M$15 and top up as you go.
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A first-time guide to Sayulita, Mexico
The most popular of the Riviera Nayarit’s two dozen towns was once a sleepy fishing village. Yet the secret quickly spread among surfing the community – and today Sayulita draws visitors of all stripes.
Since the village is now a haven for hipster surfers and boho-chic travelers, you’ll struggle to find a spot for a selfie along the much-snapped Calle Delfìnes during the high season. Yet Sayulita is so much more than a single street lined with rainbow-colored papel picado flags.
Its location on a 200-mile stretch of Pacific coastline makes it an ideal base to explore neighboring Riviera Nayarit towns.
Sandy beaches and fresh seafood abound, the waves suit surfers of all levels, and at key times of the year the waters teem with whales stopping by during their yearly migration.
Hot spots are popular for a reason, and you shouldn’t pass on Sayulita just because other travelers have fallen in love with its bohemian vibe. You’re bound to be bewitched, too.
When should I go to Sayulita?
The beaches in Mexico boast fabulous temperatures year-round. Still, you might want to avoid traveling to Sayulita during the (relatively) rainy season, which runs from June to October.
If you have your heart set on catching a glimpse of a humpback whale, you’d be wise to travel between December and April. Yet we’d advise skipping the wildly popular small beach down in peak tourist season: around Christmas, Semana Santa (Holy Week) and August.
The best time of year to surf in Sayulita is from December to April, when the northern swells bring consistent waves.
How much time should I spend in Sayulita?
If you’re just planning sticking to just Sayulita, three days will allow you to spend some much-deserved time at the beach. But given the destination’s proximity to other towns in the Riviera Nayarit, we recommend at least five.
Begin with a visit to San Pancho, a quieter version of Sayulita that’s just a 15-minute taxi ride north. You can either go on a day trip or stay for a night.
Ten minutes from here is Lo de Marcos, another coastal town that’s ideal for an afternoon stroll. A 30-minute drive in the opposite direction of Sayulita brings you to the small, pointy peninsula of Punta de Mita, where you can enjoy fresh seafood overlooking the beach or explore the hidden coves of the Islas Marietas.
Is it easy to get in and around Sayulita?
The closest airport to Sayulita is Puerto Vallarta International Airport (PVR). From there, you can reach Sayulita by renting a car – handy for town-hopping – or by taking a taxi or bus. Any of these options will get you there in about 30 minutes.
Once in Sayulita, you’ll be able to walk almost everywhere. You can also rent a golf cart to drive within the town itself – yet these are rather pricey, and you’re not allowed to take them outside of town.
Top things to do in Sayulita
If you’re setting up camp in Sayulita for a couple of days, these are the activities you shouldn’t miss.
Get into a surf groove
Even though their secret is long out, Sayulita remains a favorite among surfers. A surfing vibe is still very much present, and you can spend hours watching pros catching waves.
If you’re more a doer than a watcher, you’ll be happy to know that Sayulita washes up waves for all levels. Even if you’ve never tried surfing before, you can take lessons to see how you fare on a surfboard – whether a longboard, short board or paddleboard.
You’ll be spoiled for choice thanks to over a dozen schools in the area. Lunazul Surf School & Shop is a family-run business with over 20 years operating on the main beach. While they do accommodate drop-ins, it’s best to book your spot in advance.
Shop for boho-chic home decor and clothing
Shopping enthusiasts can spend hours browsing the town’s unique offerings. In Sayulita, boho-chic reigns supreme, from flowy blouses to airy dresses and even kimonos.
You’ll also find eclectic pieces to dress your home, like a one-of-a-kind, yarn-painted skull crafted by the Wixarika people at Evoke the Spirit.
Owned by a French couple who fell in love with the town over 15 years ago, Pinche México Te Amo offers a playful selection of tote bags, t-shirts and other items that profess their love of Mexico through witty catchphrases.
Join the wellness scene and practice yoga
Yoga and overall wellness are as intrinsic to Sayulita’s vibe as surfing. Whether you’re looking for a yoga class on the beach or an immersive retreat, you’ll find it in Sayulita.
Nestled in the jungle overlooking the beach, Haramara Retreat offers intimate and secluded spaces across 12 private acres of tropical jungle. Here, guests can recharge by booking various retreats or enjoy the facilities for a day – including the private beach – with a day pass.
Open to the public, the spa has a roster of 12 massage therapists and technicians trained in deep-tissue, Swedish, reflexology, shiatsu, Chi Nei Tsang and Thai modalities.
Indulge in fresh seafood
The state of Nayarit is famous for its just-caught seafood. While in Sayulita, be sure to try shrimp aguachile (shrimp marinated in lime juice, chili and salt, and served with cucumber and red onion slices), ceviche tostadas and tasty fish tacos. Sí Señor Sayulita and Don Pedro’s both come with a side of magnificent sea views.
Dance the night away
Speaking of Don Pedro’s: this is also the place to be for Monday night salsa. From October to June, one of Sayulita’s longest-running restaurants hosts salsa classes by the sea (6:30pm for beginners and 7:30pm for advanced dancers), paired with a live salsa band and tasty food.
Spot humpback whales
Every year, humpback whales migrate to warmer waters for the winter, making December to April prime whale-watching season in Sayulita and neighboring Bahía de Banderas.
Humpback whales aren’t the only large mammals that can be spotted here: gray whales, Bryde’s whales and orcas also make occasional appearances. You can see them from catamarans, fishing boats or biologist-led trips that set off from Sayulita beach.
My favorite thing to do in Sayulita
I spent about four months in Sayulita and the Riviera Nayarit a few years ago and I could never get over the sunsets: they’re truly something at this latitude of the Pacific.
My favorite way to experience them is without the crowds – which in Sayulita means foregoing the main beach and Playa los Muertos. Head to Playa Norte instead, toward Sayulita Turtle Camp, and find yourself an empty stretch of sand to admire the bright pinks and purples forming in the sky in solitude.
Each time I return to Sayulita there seem to be more and more tourists – so you might have to walk a bit further up the beach to enjoy the experience on your own.
How much money do I need for Sayulita?
Sayulita has accommodation options and restaurants to suit all budgets. You won’t find big chain hotels here – so if you’re after luxury, expect the barefoot-chic variety. For dining, casual eateries cater to those on a budget, while beachfront spots welcome those looking to splurge on lobster.
When you visit will impact accommodation prices, with summer being the most affordable time to stay. Just keep in mind summer is also the rainy season.
- Hostel room: $600–1200 MXN (US$30–60)
- Basic room for two: $1000–3000 MXN (US$50–150)
- Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb) $400–1500 MXN (US$20–75)
- Public transport ticket: $20 MXN (US$1)
- Cappuccino / espresso: $80 MXN (US$4) / $60 MXN (US$3)
- Sandwich $60 MXN (US$3)
- Fish tacos $40–60 MXN (US$2–3) per taco
- Dinner for two at a mid-range restaurant $600–1200 MXN (US $30–60)
- Beer/pint at the bar $20 MXN (US$2)
Is Sayulita safe for travelers?
Despite its proximity to Sinaloa, with its reputation for narco violence, Nayarit is considered one of the safest destinations in Mexico.
Travelers can safely enjoy Sayulita and the rest of the Riviera Nayarit if they take standard precautions. If exploring nearby towns, for example, it’s best to avoid driving back late at night.
Can I drink eat street food and drink the tap water in Sayulita?
Mexican street food is famous the world over – yet it’s always wise to be selective about where you stop for a bite. Ask yourself: does the stall look clean? Is the seafood being offered refrigerated or on ice, or has it been sitting out in the sun? Better to be choosy than ending up with a stomach bug on your trip.
As in the rest of the country, the tap water in Sayulita isn’t drinkable. Stick to bottled water and keep plenty at your hotel or accommodation for drinking at night, when shops are closed.
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Done Budapest? Here are 9 alternative destinations in Hungary
Though Budapest is a superstar city on most travelers’ bucket lists, Hungary has many other attractions worth exploring, including world-famous wine regions, lovely lakes, UNESCO-listed sights and historic towns.
Traveling around the country is easy and affordable, and Hungary is also a manageable size, with most inland journeys from Budapest taking about a couple of hours. Trains take you pretty much anywhere; buses take care of the rest, while sailing up the Danube Bend or cycling are fun ways to get around. Driving is only necessary if you’re planning to see the country’s remote corners. If you want to travel around extensively, consider a Hungary pass, which provides unlimited public transport within the country.
Without much further ado, here are the top 10 places to visit that capture the essence of my home country.
1. Budapest
Best for historic thermal spas, scenic beauty and nightlife
No trip to Hungary would be complete without exploring its gorgeous capital, which is also most visitors’ entry point to the country. Divided by the majestic Danube River, Budapest offers two distinct experiences: Buda is the greener and more tranquil side with historic sights like the Royal Palace, Matthias Church, Gellért Baths and Fishermen’s Bastion and great hikes through the Buda Hills. While Pest is more lively, offering equally splendid attractions such as the Parliament, St Stephen’s Basilica or City Park, alongside unique ruin pubs, historic coffee houses and rooftop bars. Margaret Island, with its medieval ruins, a rose garden and Japanese garden is a popular recreational spot with locals, while Óbuda maintains its village-like atmosphere and is home to the Roman ruins of Aquincum.
Planning tip: Though its name suggests it’s ‘just’ a park, Budapest’s City Park has enough heavyweight sights to fill at least half or even a full day, including Széchenyi Baths, Vajdahunyad Castle, the enormous Budapest Zoo and excellent museums like the House of Music and the Museum of Fine Arts.
2. The Danube Bend
Best for hikes and views
Located just north of Budapest, the Danube Bend is a scenic section of the Danube that winds its way through wooded hills and historic towns. Popular stops include artsy Szentendre, known for its galleries, museums and churches; Esztergom home to Hungary’s largest church; and historic Visegrád, home to one of the most prominent and photographed spots in the Danube Bend, the Citadel. The area offers opportunities for hiking, river cruises and exploring Hungary’s natural landscapes, and its close proximity to Budapest makes it a convenient day trip destination.
Local tip: Starting from Dömös near Visegrád, you can hike up in a few hours to the Prédikálószék lookout tower that provides the most dazzling view of the Danube Bend.
3. Gödöllő
Best for royal history
Easily accessible from Budapest on the H8 HÉV suburban train, Gödöllő is another excellent day trip destination. Its main drawcard is the Gödöllő Royal Palace, Hungary’s largest Baroque manor house and the former favorite summer residence of the country’s Queen Elizabeth (Sisi). Visitors can explore the palace’s 34 beautifully restored rooms and gardens, offering a glimpse into royal life, while the surrounding town offers a quieter and more relaxed alternative to Budapest, giving visitors a glimpse into Hungarian life outside of the buzzy capital.
4. Eger
Best for trying Hungary’s revered ‘Bull’s Blood’ wine
Characterized by gorgeous Baroque buildings and a hilltop castle with a heroic history, Eger is a jewelry box of a town with much to see and do. The main attraction is the castle rising above the town, which was where brave Hungarians famously temporarily halted the Ottomans advancing into the country in the 16th century. Though Eger was eventually conquered alongside the rest of Hungary, which is why you can still climb the minaret or soak away in the warm waters of the Turkish Bath. The town is flanked by two of northern Hungary’s most beautiful ranges of hills (Bükk and Mátra) and is the home of amazing wine, most notably the celebrated full-bodied Bull’s Blood.
Local tip: Hop on the ‘Dottika Eger’ mini-train at the main square for the 15-minute ride – or just walk – to the charming Valley of the Beautiful Women, where you can wander from cellar to cellar and sample local wines.
5. Bükk National Park
Best for hikes and nature
Eger is a convenient gateway to Bükk National Park, a haven for nature lovers with its diverse birdlife, limestone caves, forested trails and panoramic viewpoints. Popular attractions within the park include Szalajka Valley near Szilvásvárad, where visitors can hike to a waterfall, explore a cave or ride the old-timey narrow-gauge railway. Nearby Lillafüred near Miskolc, centered around a forest-fringed lake, offers boat rides, walking paths and the Renaissance-era Palace Hotel.
Detour: Between Miskolc and Lillafüred lies the Miskolctapoca Cave Bath, a spa complex set up in a natural cave – though at the time of writing it is temporarily closed due to a fire, so check the website before you go.
6. Hollókő
Best for traditional folk culture
Hollókő, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Northern Hungary, is celebrated for its preserved folk architecture and traditions. Home to the ethnic Palóc people, the Old Village is characterized by cobblestoned streets lined by whitewashed houses with carved wooden porches. Visitors can purchase a Village Walk Ticket from the Küszöb Information Office to gain access to several attractions, including Hollókő Castle, and local wine and cheese samples.
Local tip: Visit in March or April to witness Hungary’s unique Easter traditions and traditional Palóc folk performances in action.
7. Tokaj-Hegyalja
Best for local wines
Tokaj-Hegyalja – declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2002 – is Hungary’s top wine tourism destination. The region is spread over a romantic landscape of cellars, vineyards and slopes at the foothills of the Zemplén Mountains and is made up of 27 villages. The most famous variety produced here is the honey-sweet Aszú, which was called the ’Wine of Kings, King of Wines’ by Louis XV of France and even features in the Hungarian National Anthem. The best place to start exploring the area is Tokaj, a picturesque little town cradled by two rivers with old buildings, nesting storks and vineries galore. The most magical village to visit is Hercegkút, whose wine cellars resemble Hobbit houses.
Planning tip: The Tourinform office (located at Serház utca 1 in Tokaj) offers customized ‘wine bus’ tours that take you on a tasting session at three wineries – minimum two people, book about a week in advance.
8. Lake Balaton & Hévíz
Best for lakeside wellness retreats
Central Europe’s biggest lake, or the ‘Hungarian sea’, is where the Magyars (Hungarians) flock to spend their summer holidays. During the dog days, the beaches are packed with people swimming, playing, SUPing (stand-up paddleboarding) and boating. In winter when the lake freezes over it turns into a huge ice-skating rink. The shoreline is dotted with picture-perfect marinas, tiny villages and lovely vineyards. The water on the southern shore is shallower, perfect for family fun, while the northern shore is where the best wineries and hikes are. Balatonfüred, the oldest resort on the lake, and Tihany, which hosts the fragrant Tihany Lavender Festival in early July, are popular spots with most travelers. The village of Keszthely is good for families, while Siófok is great for a party or night out.
Detour: Nearby Hévíz is home to the world’s largest swimmable thermal lake. The water temperature there averages 91°F (33°C) and never drops below 71°F (22°C), even in winter, surrounded by fir trees.
9. The Great Plain
Best for rural traditions and small town charm
The Great Plain (Nagyalföld) spans nearly half of Hungary, a region of sweeping grasslands and rural towns. At its heart lies Hortobágy National Park, showcasing traditional Hungarian shepherding culture and horse shows. Here, you can visit authentic shepherd huts or walk across the nine-arched bridge, Hungary’s longest stone bridge. Bugac in the Kiskunság National Park, is another great spot where you can see traditional Hungarian herding culture in action. The Bugac Pustza features walking trails and a museum on shepherding.
The region is also home to fabulous cities that are far from ‘plain.’ Dynamic Debrecen is Hungary’s second-largest city with a rich history and culture, a great launchpad for exploring Hortobágy National Park. Only an hour away from Budapest lies cute Kecskemét, famous for its fiery apricot pálinka (fruit brandy) and Art Nouveau town center. Another hour away, you find lovely Szeged, a culture-filled city on the Tisza River famous for its food like paprika spice, Pick salami and must-try fish soup.
10. Pécs
Best for a city break
The most recommended city break in Hungary is lively Pécs for its cool university-town vibe, mild climate and interesting museums. Pécs is blessed with rarities like the Ottoman-built Mosque of Pasha Qasim, the largest Ottoman structure still standing in Hungary, and a nearby landmark, a Roman cemetery dating from the 4th century in the Early Christian Necropolis. The town’s true highlight is the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter, a museum complex on the grounds of the original world-famous 1853 Zsolnay porcelain factory. A prominent Hungarian wine-making village, Villány is nearby, known for its robust reds.
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