Tag: Cooking

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Top Wine Spectator Editors’ Blog Posts of 2018 (Wine Spectator)

It was yet another eventful year in the wine world, and our editors had no shortage of hot takes. We looked at up-and-coming wine regions, new winemakers on the rise (and old winemakers with exciting new projects), off-the-radar wines that deserve your attention, and talked to Joe Wagner about his Pinot Noir growing pains.

Ordered alphabetically by editor, here are our top blog posts of 2018.

Robert Camuto: Going Native in Europe

Etna’s Eruption: What’s Next for Wine on Sicily’s Active Volcano?
June 11, 2018

Robert Camuto

A vineyard on the north face of Etna’s smoldering peak.

Following the 2018 edition of Sicily’s Contrade dell’Etna barrel tasting, Wine Spectator contributing editor Robert Camuto reflected on how much Etna’s wine scene has evolved in the past 10 years, and what changes are still to come. Lately, he says, it’s been difficult to keep up with the number of outsiders showing up, lured by the prospect of working with Etna’s singular varieties on one of Europe’s most active volcanoes.

Tim Fish

Oregon Strikes Gold with 2016 Pinot Noirs
Aug. 8, 2018

New Pinot Noir Stars of Oregon
Aug. 28, 2018

Courtesy of Rose & Arrow

Rose & Arrow’s Black Walnut vineyard is planted on volcanic rock soils in Dundee Hills.

Senior editor Tim Fish, Wine Spectator‘s lead taster for the wines of Oregon, reported that a series of warm, excellent vintages is boosting the growing excitement for Willamette Valley Pinots. He says the 2016s are polished and sleek, playing right into the hands of a coterie of new Oregon Pinot stars.

James Molesworth

2017 Bordeaux Barrel Tastings
March 15, 2018

Pistolet bleu

Château Canon’s 2017 vintage is among the elite in St.-Emilion.

Senior editor James Molesworth, Wine Spectator‘s lead taster for the wines of Bordeaux, made his annual spring pilgrimage to Bordeaux for the en primeur tastings for a first look at the newest vintage in barrel. He posted 16 dispatches from top estates, checking in at first-growths Haut-Brion, Lafite, Mouton, Margaux and Latour, as well as Right Bank all-stars Pétrus and Cheval-Blanc. Plus, WineSpectator.com members can read his barrel tasting scores and tasting notes for more than 250 wines.

Bruce Sanderson

Sale of Henri Jayer’s Cellar Shatters Auction Record
June 21, 2018

Robert Drouhin to Sell Collection of Rare DRCs
Oct. 4, 2018

Courtesy of Sotheby’s

These DRC La Tâche 1949s sat in Robert Drouhin’s cellar for more than 60 years.

Senior editor Bruce Sanderson, Wine Spectator‘s lead taster for the wines of Burgundy, shed some light on some of the most highly coveted wines at auction—and their ability to go supernova when provenance is as pristine as the personal cellars of Burgundy legends Henri Jayer and Robert Drouhin. The sale of the late Jayer’s last bottles of Pinot Noir fetched nearly $35 million. Drouhin, who was selling some of his decades-old collection of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti bottles (along with a handful from his own domaine), saw one of his bottles of 1945 DRC Romanée-Conti sell for more than half a million dollars, the most ever paid for a single bottle of wine. Get Bruce’s take on these record-setting sales.

Harvey Steiman

The Music of Wine
March 21, 2018

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Try tuning up for your next wine tasting with a favorite classical selection.

Wine Spectator editor at large Harvey Steiman says he often thinks of wines in musical terms—and vice versa. He credits the late Burgundy vigneron Vincent Leflaive for setting him on the path of pairing wine in music, recounting a visit to Leflaive’s cellar many years ago. Can synergies with music make a wine in the glass better, and add something extra to the music on the sound system? Steiman argues it can improve both sides of the equation.

Mixed Case: Emma Balter

An Ode to White Bordeaux
April 6, 2018

Dani Maczynski

Emma wields the pipette.

When was the last time you had a glass of white Bordeaux? Assistant editor Emma Balter champions Bordeaux’s dry white blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, saying the region abounds with inexpensive versions that punch above their weight. She also tries her hand at blending a white Bordeaux of her own.

Mixed Case: Mitch Frank

Is Oregon Wine Afraid of Meiomi-zation?
Dec. 10, 2018

Colin Price

Joe Wagner thinks strong Elouan sales help Oregon. Not everyone agrees.

How did a dispute over appellations and the marketing of Joe Wagner’s Elouan Pinot Noir turn into an all-out rumble? News editor Mitch Frank says the true cause may be Meiomi and competing visions of Oregon wine’s future.

Mixed Case: Ben O’Donnell

Costco Meets the Millennials
July 25, 2018

John Granen

Costco has recently expanded its house brand Kirkland Signature.

“Will Millennials kill Costco?” wondered a Washington Post headline earlier this year. It was hardly the first story to question how big-box retailers could adapt to a generation that is painted as allergic to the supermarket run and the mall day, preferring to shop online for everything from from books to beer. Associate editor Ben O’Donnell says Costco continues to thrive with its singular appeal, including having one thing Millennials love: all the wine.

Mixed Case: Aleks Zecevic

Own Rooted vs. Grafted Vines: Which Make Better Wines?
April 13, 2018

Courtesy of Bedrock

Bedrock sources grapes from old California vineyards such as own-rooted Evanghelo, planted in the 1890s in Contra Costa County.

Today, due to the scourge of the phylloxera louse, the vast majority of the world’s fine-wine grapevines are grafted onto native American rootstocks. However, scattered across the world are small pockets of surviving vines planted on their own roots. Working with these vines is risky. Associate tasting coordinator Aleks Zecevic talked to Bedrock winery founder Morgan Twain-Peterson and Germany’s Dr. Ulrich Stein about the pros and cons.

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What is Cream of Tartar?

What is Cream of Tartar?What is cream of tartar exactly? How should you use it? Can it be substituted? Get the nitty gritty on all things pertaining to this baking staple.
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Top New Wine Videos of 2018 (Wine Spectator)

What did 2018 teach us about wine? From walking the vineyards with top winemakers to learning new wine-friendly recipes to how to decant a bottle of wine, Wine Spectator‘s editors covered a lot of ground!

Among the most popular Wine Spectator videos of 2018 are Wine Spectator‘s Wine of the Year and the winner of our 2018 Video Contest. They’re joined by useful how-to tutorials and special insider intel from vineyards in Napa Valley. Grab some popcorn and, of course, a glass of wine, as we spool up this reel of the year’s best clips.

Can’t get enough wine videos? Sign up for our Video Theater Newsletter, which brings the latest winemaker interviews, quick tips, food-pairing suggestions and more straight to your email inbox every other week.

Top 10

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Wine of the Year 2018
It’s no surprise that the video featuring Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year, the Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri-Sassicaia Sassicaia 2015, was a hit with wine lovers. Senior editor Bruce Sanderson explains that Sassicaia began as an experimental passion project that became a pioneer of Bolgheri’s super Tuscan movement. For more information on the full Top 100, check out our Top 100 video page to hear from our senior editors about what makes the Top 10 wines special, and check out the Top 100 Bonus Videos and explore the regions, grape varieties and wine styles featured in this year’s list.

Video Contest Winner

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The Soul of Barolo
The story of the Abbona family, the owners of Piedmont’s Marchesi di Barolo winery, turned out to be as captivating to viewers as it was to Seattle-based filmmaker Will Miceli, who chose to showcase it in his submission for Wine Spectator’s 2018 Video Contest. This behind-the-scenes snapshot of the family during and after work, was chosen by viewer votes. The theme of love and family continues with the contest’s second- and third-place winners “I am Brian Benson” and “Amore Amarone.” Check out at all the winners, finalists and honorable mentions!

Wine 101

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How to Serve Wine Like a Pro
We published three great tutorials this year. In addition to “How to Serve Wine Like a Pro,” we also presented viewers with primers on “How to Decant Wine” and “How to Open a Screwcap.” (If it sounds obvious, you might be surprised!)

Wine Experience

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Nebbiolo 101
The 2017 New York Wine Experience brought vintners from across the globe to share their exciting wines and stories, including Italy’s Angelo and Gaia Gaja, who presented their family’s 2014 Barbaresco. Find out why Gaia calls Nebbiolo such a challenging grape variety.

Food Pairing

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Perfect Match: Tuna Aguachile with Lime, Cilantro and Mint
A fresh, aromatic meal calls for a crisp, delicate wine. Wine Spectator‘s Hilary Sims explains why a bright Provençal-style rosé shines with this flavorful Mexican dish from Best of Award of Excellence winner Harvest by Roy Ellamar. Don’t miss our entire series of Perfect Match videos and accompanying recipes. Recent favorites have included Roast Salmon with Chardonnay, Lamb Chops with Barbaresco and Roast Chicken with Beaujolais.

Insider Intel

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What Makes a Great Malbec?
Malbec is the star of Argentina, where wineries produce delicious, full-bodied versions. What are the signs of a high-quality Malbec? Winemaker Sebastián Zuccardi of Familia Zuccardi shares his insight.

News

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After the Fires: California Wine Country Rebuilds
Several months after the devastating October 2017 wildfires, Wine Spectator visited some of the hardest-hit wineries in California wine country, including Signorello, Mayacamas and Paradise Ridge, to see how recovery efforts were coming along. Watch the video to learn more about the rebuilding process, and check out our followup coverage.

In the Vineyard

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In the Vineyard with Mark Aubert
California Chardonnay and Pinot Noir master Mark Aubert talks viticulture in his top estate vineyard, Lauren. Find out the history behind this site, and learn why it’s so important to the Aubert label. And don’t miss senior editor Kim Marcus’ cover story, “Mark Aubert’s Ambition,” in the July 31, 2018, issue of Wine Spectator.

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In the Vineyard at Harlan Estate
At the cult Napa Cabernet producer, winemaker Cory Empting shares how vineyard conditions improve from planting new rows of grapevines. Read more on senior editor James Molesworth’s visit to Harlan, and check out his blog for regular reports from top estates in Napa, Bordeaux and beyond.

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The science of ramen

The science of ramenDiscover how to prepare a delicious tonkotsu ramen in your own kitchen. Did you know that it’s not a Japanese dish but a Chinese one?
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For the New Year, Edouardo Jordan Serves Up Luck and Prosperity (Wine Spectator)

Edouardo Jordan’s knack for making great food came long before he began building up his résumé. “My background in cooking with my family allowed me to understand how food should taste and how to season things,” Jordan says. “Grandma … she just knew how to season her food—that was from the start. So maybe that’s innate in me.”

The Florida-born chef eventually took this foundation to the highest level of professional practice, going on to master a repertoire of cuisines and techniques ranging from Italian cooking at Lincoln Ristorante in New York to French-style methods at Per Se and Napa Valley’s the French Laundry.

“Everything I’ve learned is incorporated into how I perform in the kitchen on a daily basis,” he says.

Now he’s successfully running two Seattle-based restaurants: JuneBaby, serving the Southern comfort food he knows so well, and Salare, a melding of American, African, European and Caribbean cuisines. To those he added, just two weeks ago, a bar-style restaurant, called Lucinda Grain Bar, next door to JuneBaby, that highlights grains, legumes and whisky.

Shannon Renfroe

Edouardo Jordan calls it a blessing that he grew up in South, where food “just comes with high flavor.”

With three restaurants now, “it’s very difficult to actually be in one spot at any given time,” says Jordan. “My day to day has changed a little bit. I have little flurries of time in the kitchen and then I have flurries of time at the desk.”

But his busyness has been paying off: Earlier this year, Jordan earned two James Beard Awards, one for best Northwest chef and the other for best new restaurant, for JuneBaby.

So when it came down to selecting a dish appropriate for a New Year’s celebration, he didn’t think twice about centering it on black-eyed peas—a symbol of luck and prosperity—to keep this success flowing into 2019.

“It’s a classic, kind of southern tradition to serve black-eyed peas for New Year’s Eve or New Year’s Day for good fortune for the year,” says Jordan. “I’m just kind of following tradition—what we ate as a family—and incorporating that into what we do now.”

The party-size salad recipe he shares—this serves 20, perfect if you’re hosting a crowd or are counting on leftovers—can be scaled back as much as you want, down to a meal for four (in which case it calls for just a pinch of each of the spices). The dish can be kept fully vegetarian, served as a side or topped with poached chicken, turkey, ham or any meat of your choosing to make a full meal.

For those unfamiliar with cooking with black-eyed peas, you can find them at most stores in the dried bean section. The peas should be soaked at least six to 24 hours in advance “to expedite the cooking process,” says Jordan. The salt should be added after the beans are done cooking, he adds, to ensure they actually absorb the flavors completely.

“This is a dish that you could essentially make a few days in advance,” Jordan says. “Let it sit and it gets better over time.”

Little screams New Year’s more than Champagne, and, luckily, it makes a perfect pairing with the salad. “When you think of black-eyed peas, you normally don’t think of Champagne, but it’s the other ingredient to bring everything together,” Jordan says.

He goes with a Suenen Cramant Brut Champagne Réserve NV. “It’s crisp and it has a good tartness to it,” he says. “It’s going to go well with the preserved lemon more than anything and the chopped herbs,” he says. Below, Wine Spectator shares recently rated selections of similar bubblies.

With all his successes, Jordan might not need the luck, but he’ll be serving this black-eyed pea salad for his family this New Year’s because, for him, tradition matters.

Black-Eyed Pea Salad

For the black-eyed peas

  • 1 gallon dried black-eyed peas
  • 2 bay leaves
  • 1 carrot, peeled
  • 1 stalk celery
  • 1/2 onion
  • 8–10 sprigs thyme

    • 1. Place peas in a large bowl and cover with water by 4 inches. Transfer to refrigerator and chill for 24 hours. Drain.

    2. Place all ingredients in a stockpot, cover with water by 3 to 4 inches and place over high heat. Skim as needed as you bring to a boil.

    3. When the water is boiling, lower the heat to a gentle simmer. Cook until peas are nearly tender. This will vary depending on how long they were soaked; check after 15 minutes and every 5 minutes thereafter.

    4. Let peas rest 5 minutes in the cooking liquid, then salt generously. Let peas rest in the water for a bit longer to absorb the salt, then drain.

    For the preserved lemon sauce

    • 300 grams (10.5 ounces) preserved lemons, briefly rinse, seeds and/or spices removed (these can be found jarred at specialty markets or online)
    • 150 grams (2/3 cup) extra-virgin olive oil
    • 150 grams (2/3 cup) Muscatel vinegar

    Place all ingredients in a blender with 150 grams (2/3 cup) of water. Process for 90 seconds. Reserve.

    For the salad

    • 112 grams (1/2 cup) extra-virgin olive oil
    • 15 ounces red bell pepper (about 3 large or 5 medium peppers), medium-diced
    • 15 ounces green bell pepper (about 3 large or 5 medium peppers), medium-diced
    • 15 ounces yellow onion (about 3 large or 5 medium onions), medium-diced
    • 3 to 4 large pinches kosher salt
    • 2 grams (2.5 teaspoons) fresh thyme leaves
    • 25 grams (about 1/3 cup) chopped parsley
    • 15 grams (about 3 tablespoons) minced tarragon
    • 5 grams (about 2 teaspoons) ground cumin
    • 3 grams (about 1 heaping teaspoon) ground coriander
    • 2 grams (about 3/4 teaspoon) finely ground black pepper
    • Black-eyed peas (recipe above)
    • Preserved lemon sauce (recipe above)

    1. Generously coat the bottom of a large pot with oil and heat on medium until the oil is shimmering but not smoking.

    2. Add the red pepper, green pepper and onion to the pan and stir to coat with the oil. Cook, stirring occasionally, for 2 to 3 minutes to “wake up” the vegetables; they will soften and lose some of their rawness. Do not let them brown. As the vegetables soften, add salt a pinch at a time, stirring between each addition. This is both to add flavor and to draw moisture out of the vegetables; the goal is to give them the same texture as the cooked beans. Stir in the thyme.

    3. Stir in all of the remaining ingredients, as well as the black-eyed peas and the sauce, folding gently so as to not break up the beans. Can serve hot or room temperature. Serves 20.

    7 Recommended Bubblies

    Note: The following list is a selection of outstanding and very good sparkling wines from recently rated releases. More options can be found in our Wine Ratings Search.

    ROEDERER ESTATE Brut Anderson Valley NV Score: 93 | $24
    Seamless and silky with an almost effortless sense of complexity, with notes of lemon and pear paired with toasty brioche, fresh ginger and hazelnut. Drink now. 80,000 cases made.—Tim Fish

    NICOLAS FEUILLATTE Brut Champagne Réserve Exclusive NV Score: 91 | $37
    Well-knit and mouthwatering, with a creamy mousse and flavors of glazed apple, grated ginger, smoky toasted brioche and hints of marzipan and lemon curd lingering on the lively finish. Drink now through 2021. 41,392 cases imported.—Alison Napjus

    DIEBOLT-VALLOIS Brut Blanc de Blancs ChampagneNV Score: 90 | $38
    Ripe apricot and orchard blossom notes are set on the satiny bead of this well-balanced blanc de blancs. It’s fresh and personable, with accents of pastry cream and candied lemon peel. Disgorged November 2017. Drink now. 1,000 cases imported.—A.N.

    GLORIA FERRER Blanc de Blancs Carneros NV Score: 90 | $22
    Sleek and steely with delicate lemon and green apple flavors accented by blanched almond and clotted cream notes. Drink now. 2,000 cases made.—T.F.

    DUC DE ROMET Brut Champagne Prestige NV Score: 88 | $33
    Open-knit and fresh, with a smoky undertow and flavors of Honeycrisp apple, black currant, spring blossom and lemon pith set on the lively bead. Disgorged April 2018. Drink now. 1,084 cases imported.—A.N.

    LOUIS DE SACY Brut Champagne Originel Score: 88 | $30
    This fresh and open-knit Champagne is lightly chalky in texture, with honeysuckle, clementine and biscuit notes backed by zesty acidity. Moderate finish. Drink now. 8,300 cases made.—A.N.

    PAUL LAURENT Brut Champagne Cuvée du Fondateur NV Score: 88 | $35
    A mouthwatering Champagne, with a lacy mousse and a lively mix of Honeycrisp apple, nectarine, Marcona almond and chalk. Subtle finish. Drink now. 20,000 cases made.—A.N.

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Top Health Topics of 2018 (Wine Spectator)

In 2018, a year that brought no shortage of wellness “trends,” it’s no surprise that the relationship between wine and health was a hot topic. In addition to reports on new scientific research and answers to reader-submitted questions, Wine Spectator took deep dives into a wide range of pertinent wine-and-health subjects. From wine’s unique effects on women to the breakdown of polyphenols’ benefits, here are our most popular health topics from 2018.

Women and Wine: How Alcohol Affects Female Health

Men and women are obviously different, but did you know that this is true even when it comes to how alcohol affects them? There’s a reason why the U.S.D.A. Dietary Guidelines recommend up to two drinks a day for men and up to only one for women: Women have less body water than men, and therefore are more likely to have a higher blood-alcohol content (BAC) than men after drinking the same amounts. Further, estrogen, the primary female sex hormone, suppresses the process that leads to the breakdown of alcohol, another contributor to a higher BAC in women. Wine Spectator rounded up studies that specifically pertained to women, including some areas of concern, such as breast cancer risk and reproductive health questions, as well as benefits, like cardiovascular protection and increased bone density, to help paint a better picture of the complex relationship between alcohol and female health.

How Does Alcohol Affect Your Sleep?

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That nightcap seems like a relaxing end to the day, but it might unsettle your night.

About 70 million Americans have some sort of trouble sleeping, according to the American Academy of Sleep Medicine, and for many, alcohol can be an accessible, and often appealing, option for relief. But its effects don’t end once you shut your eyes. While alcohol can help you fall asleep, it may not be quality rest, as a 2015 study demonstrated. There’s also the tricky matter of sleep disorders, such as insomnia and sleep apnea, that come with other factors to consider when thinking about drinking before bed. One of the first rules a wine lover can follow in order to sleep soundly and avoid a foggy mind the following day is to wait a while in between, drinking and sleeping and, as always, drink only in moderation.

What Does Wine Do to Your Teeth?

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You can drink wine and still enjoy a healthy smile.

If you’ve ever been to a wine tasting, you’re likely familiar with the most obvious effect of wine on your smile: stained teeth. But while that issue—whether temporary or more permanent—is certainly one to think about, there is a lot more going on that’s less visible. Wine Spectator spoke with dental health specialists about the different ways in which wine can affect our oral health—from the breakdown of tooth enamel to potentially helping prevent decay. Of course, we also threw in some tips for dealing with that purple wine-tasting grin.

Is Wine Gluten-Free?

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Celiac-disease sufferers need to watch what they eat; but how about what they drink?

As a product of grapes, wine is generally considered a safe beverage for those avoiding gluten—though there are some very specific exceptions. (And don’t assume all wine-based drinks are gluten-free.) While many people adopt gluten-free diets for various reasons, for those with celiac disease or an intolerance, it’s an absolute necessity to know whether a food or beverage contains any gluten at all. We spoke to experts about the rare cases in which wine might contain trace amounts of gluten, and whether you have to worry about them.

Wine Is Full of Healthy Polyphenols. But What’s a Polyphenol?

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Polyphenols are found in the pulp, seeds and skins of grapes.

The health-conscious wine drinker may already consider polyphenols to be an added benefit to their beverage of choice, but many people don’t know why polyphenols are good for them … or, for that matter, what the word even means! We break down what polyphenols are, list the studied health benefits of many polyphenols found in wine, and even highlight some wines that are believed to be the richest in polyphenols!