Restaurant Talk: The Dynamic Duo Behind a San Francisco Classic (Wine Spectator)

Nancy Oakes and John Lancaster sometimes finish each other’s sentences, they’ve worked side by side so long. The rare level of synergy between chef and wine director they’ve attained over two decades has helped keep Boulevard at the top of San Francisco’s dining scene.

Oakes grew up in Northern California and worked in several San Francisco kitchens before establishing her own place, L’Avenue, in 1988. That restaurant closed in 1993, but Oakes opened Boulevard the same year with business partner Pat Kuleto; the restaurant in the waterfront Embarcadero district quickly became a fine-dining go-to, and a quarter-century later reigns as a modern classic with its impeccable setting and finely tuned wine program. Oakes later opened another Best of Award of Excellence winner in San Francisco, Prospect.

Lancaster has been the wine director at Boulevard since 1996 and has elevated the wine program to keep pace with Oakes’ cuisine over the years. Today, Boulevard offers 825 selections, with an emphasis on regions such as California, Burgundy and the Rhône, and keeps a rotation of 30-plus wines by the glass.

The time-tested team spoke with assistant editor Julie Harans about tasting life-changing Château d’Yquem, “bending” dish preparations to pair with wine, and how to balance meeting expectations without getting “bored.”

Wine Spectator: What initially sparked your interest in wine?
Nancy Oakes: I think it was traveling. In the early ‘80s I went to France, and it’s just naturally how it occurs there, and I think I loved it. Wine hadn’t really been a part of my past because my parents were not particularly wine drinkers; in fact, I wasn’t much of a drinker at all. So the first golden moment—I wish I could remember the name of the restaurant—but it’s where I had a tasting of all different goose preparations paired with Château d’Yquem. I don’t think I’ve ever been the same since that. That changed me forever.

WS: How do you work together to create wine pairings that complement the cuisine, and vice versa?
NO: I tend to like wine-friendly food, because if I sit down for a special occasion, I’m thinking wine, and I’m thinking the wines I love to drink. So I think it’s just very enmeshed, it’s synchronized. When people ask me to do a course and a dinner that has fabulous wines, and the wine is really the big focal point of that dinner, I put the wine first. It is easier for me to bend the food. You can’t bend the wine; it’s in the bottle.
John Lancaster: And I think that kind of thing just comes naturally to Nancy. We’ve written so many menus together that it’s just nature for Nancy, the way she can work a dish to fit the wine. We endlessly change and evolve, so that makes it fun for us and it makes it interesting. I always wonder when I go back to a restaurant 10 years later and all the dishes are the same. I think, “God, how are you not bored with that?”

WS: What does that collaboration look like on a day-to-day basis?
JL: We do tastings together, and we’ve worked together so long that I think we finish each other’s sentences at times. It’s kind of a natural thing, and certainly I do have a lot of conversations with the kitchen on new dishes and things. We work five days a week together, so we’re around each other quite a bit … Every time there’s a new dish on the menu, Nancy makes it for lineup, and we all try it and talk about it.
NO: I tried to say we’ve worked together for 18 years the other weekend and John corrected me—it’s more like 20 years. He’s my first go-to when I set off to do something paired with a wine. I come to him and I say, “This is what I’m thinking,” and he’ll either go, “Yes, yes, yes,” or “Oh, no, that’s not going to work.” He’s a great resource for me. I think mostly because my training is French and Italian, it makes it automatically wine-friendly. But some of the younger people, like my chef de cuisine, [are] very strong in Asian ingredients, and I think that’s more of a challenge, wine-wise.

WS: How has Boulevard evolved since opening?
NO: Some of the basic proteins we’ve always had on the menu, but if the basic menu item—like the pork chop—is the little black dress, what I really love are the accessories. So that’s what’s always evolving. But what’s interesting is that now, for children of our original customers, this is their special-occasion place, and they bring their children. This restaurant has such a stated look that it feels familiar and there’s a touchstone, but actually it has been changing beneath their feet, and they’ve changed also.

There’s so much food media that everyone’s exposed to, they’re expecting to see those new ingredients and new styles. But yet, the way the restaurant feels and looks is the same, which I think sets a tradition, which is hard to find now—a tradition.

WS: And how has the wine list evolved?
JL: Well, just in more depth and scope … Way back in the day it was a lot smaller, a lot less inventory, a lot more California-driven, and now we’ve got a little bit of everything from everywhere. I look at what we did 15 or 20 years ago compared to what we do now and I go, “Wow.”

WS: What’s the secret to Boulevard’s longevity?
NO: At the end of the day, it’s about hospitality. Recognition of your guests, quality of service and quality of the product, and knowing the people in your dining room. If I go to a place four times and they look at me like I’m a complete stranger, I’m probably going to cross it off my list. I think everybody’s really involved in the new thing, but I think that there is some comfort in familiarity.


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Creamy Red Pepper Shells

Creamy Red Pepper Shells - Crumbled Italian sausage, Parmesan, basil, and the most EPIC red pepper cream sauce. It's irresistible and completely addictive!

Crumbled Italian sausage, Parmesan, basil, and the most EPIC red pepper cream sauce. It’s irresistible and completely addictive!

Creamy Red Pepper Shells - Crumbled Italian sausage, Parmesan, basil, and the most EPIC red pepper cream sauce. It's irresistible and completely addictive!

I’m currently taking a break from all the soups right now. At least for just a little bit.

But only because I have something else keeping me nice and cozy during this very cold winter.

Creamy Red Pepper Shells - Crumbled Italian sausage, Parmesan, basil, and the most EPIC red pepper cream sauce. It's irresistible and completely addictive!

That’s right. It’s this cream sauce here, but guys, this is not just any kind of cream sauce.

It’s a red pepper cream sauce! Loaded with crumbled Italian sausage (mild or spicy can be used here), plenty of freshly grated Parmesan and fresh basil leaves.

Creamy Red Pepper Shells - Crumbled Italian sausage, Parmesan, basil, and the most EPIC red pepper cream sauce. It's irresistible and completely addictive!

And you get to use jarred roasted red peppers, cutting the prep time in half, making this a quick 30-minute meal.

Although I should warn you – this may be requested every single night of the week! We’re already on day 4 here.

Creamy Red Pepper Shells

Crumbled Italian sausage, Parmesan, basil, and the most EPIC red pepper cream sauce. It’s irresistible and completely addictive!

Ingredients:

  • 8 ounces medium pasta shells
  • 1 (16-ounce) jar roasted red bell peppers, drained
  • 3/4 cup chicken stock
  • 1 tablespoon olive oil
  • 1 pound mild Italian sausage, casing removed
  • 1/2 medium sweet onion, diced
  • 2 cloves garlic, minced
  • 1 1/2 teaspoons Italian seasoning
  • 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour
  • 1 (8-ounce) can tomato sauce
  • 1/2 cup heavy cream
  • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
  • 1/2 cup freshly grated Parmesan
  • 3 tablespoons chopped fresh basil leaves

Directions:

  1. In a large pot of boiling salted water, cook pasta according to package instructions; drain well.
  2. Combine red bell peppers and chicken stock in blender until smooth; set aside.
  3. Heat olive oil in a large skillet over medium high heat. Add sausage and onion, and cook, stirring frequently, until sausage is browned, about 5-7 minutes, making sure to crumble the sausage as it cooks; drain excess fat.
  4. Stir in garlic and Italian seasoning until fragrant, about 1 minute.
  5. Whisk in flour until lightly browned, about 1 minute.
  6. Gradually whisk in red bell pepper mixture and tomato sauce. Bring to a boil; reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until reduced and slightly thickened, about 6-8 minutes.
  7. Stir in pasta and heavy cream until heated through, about 1-2 minutes; season with salt and pepper, to taste. Stir in Parmesan until melted, about 2 minutes. Stir in basil.
  8. Serve immediately.

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Exciting Wine Restaurants in Atlanta (Wine Spectator)

When you think about Southern American food, staples like fried chicken, biscuits and collard greens often come to mind. But in cities like Atlanta, star chefs and independent owners alike are expanding local cuisine far beyond the classics, and offering world-class wine programs to match. Here are nine Wine Spectator Restaurant Award–winning destinations for superior wine and food, served with a side of Southern hospitality.

To check out more wine-and-food destinations around the world, see Wine Spectator’s more than 3,500 Restaurant Award–winning picks, including the 91 Grand Award recipients worldwide that hold our highest honor.

Do you have a favorite you’d like to see on this list? Send your recommendations to [email protected]. We want to hear from you!


LuAnne DeMeo

Aria Restaurant’s sleek dining room sets the stage for chef-owner Gerry Klaskala’s modern menu.

ARIA RESTAURANT
Polished dishes and a diverse wine program
490 E. Paces Ferry Road N.E., Atlanta, Ga.
(404) 233-7673
www.aria-atl.com
Open for dinner, Monday to Saturday

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 500
Inventory 1,500
Wine strengths Managed by wine director Andres Loaiza, Aria’s wine list is filled with solid picks from classic regions, especially France, Italy and Spain. There’s something for everyone, with bottles ranging from less than $30 to more than $2,000.
Opportunities for discovery At Aria, you’ll also find labels from lesser-known wine regions in Slovenia, Lebanon and the Canary Islands. The diverse list is meant to complement the frequently changing cuisine.
Cuisine Chef-owner Gerry Klaskala’s American menu is constantly evolving, but the restaurant maintains customer favorites like the short rib of beef with pearl onions and potato purée. Produce shines through the dishes, which feature an abundance of vegetables like sunchokes, oyster mushrooms and fennel.
Local dining leader Klaskala is one of the owners at another Best of Award of Excellence winner featured in this guide, Canoe.


Tomas Espinoza

Atlas serves produce-focused starters as well as hearty entrées like short rib.

ATLAS
A refined American restaurant with a growing wine list
The St. Regis Atlanta, 88 W. Paces Ferry Road, Atlanta, Ga.
(404) 563-7900
www.atlasrestaurant.com
Open for dinner, daily

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 425
Inventory 2,100
Wine strengths Wine director Michael Hanley’s list excels in France, Italy and California, with dozens of diverse verticals from top producers. The number of selections has more than doubled since 2017.
Cuisine The American menu draws inspiration from global cuisines for a contemporary edge. Chef Christopher Grossman sources ingredients from local farms for dishes like rack of lamb with romesco sauce, roasted corned short rib with grilled scallions and hot-smoked trout with potato mousse and smoked caviar cream.
Premium pours Among more than 70 selections by the glass, you’ll find exciting options like Château d’Yquem Sauternes 2005 and a nine-vintage vertical of Opus One.
Cross-country concepts Atlas is one of nine Restaurant Award winners in the Tavistock Restaurant Collection, including two Abe & Louie’s locations, Aquaknox in Las Vegas, Atlantic Fish Co. in Boston, Café Del Rey in Marina del Rey, Calif., Coach Grill in Wayland, Mass., Napa Valley Grille in Los Angeles and Zed451 in Chicago.


Andrea Behrends

Enjoy Barcelona Wine Bar’s extensive by-the-glass wine list at the bar.

BARCELONA WINE BAR
Wine-centric Spanish dining
240 N. Highland Ave. N.E., Atlanta, Ga.
(404) 589-1010
www.barcelonawinebar.com
Open for dinner, daily

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 485
Inventory 3,380
Wine strengths Run by wine director Gretchen Thomas, Barcelona Wine Bar’s list has a significant Spanish focus, rounded out by standout picks from Argentina, Chile and France. Organic, biodynamic and natural wines abound.
Sip and sample There are more than 40 wines by the glass, and each selection is available in either a 6-ounce or 3-ounce pour.
Nationwide name The wine-bar brand has 14 Best of Award of Excellence–winning outposts across the country. Atlanta’s other location has 485 selections too, with matching strengths in Spain, Argentina, Chile and France.
Cuisine While all Barcelona Wine Bars feature Spanish-tapas fare, each has its own chef that writes the menu nightly. At this outpost, chef James Burge creates plates like blistered okra with Calabrian chile and almonds, chorizo with sweet-and-sour figs, and spiced beef empanadas.


Bones

Bones serves a regional interpretation of steak-house fare in a cozy space.

BONES
A Southern-style steak house
3130 Piedmont Road N.E., Atlanta, Ga.
(404) 237-2663
www.bonesrestaurant.com
Open for lunch and dinner, daily

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 1,300
Inventory 16,000
Wine strengths Bones’ extensive wine list spans the globe, excelling in California, Bordeaux, Italy, Burgundy and Australia. Value is a big priority for wine director Peter Apers, who ensures the program stays moderately priced with reasonable markups and hundreds of labels under $100.
Cuisine Chef Leonard Lewis puts a Southern spin on traditional steak-house dining, serving the shrimp cocktail with roulade sauce and offering side dishes for steaks such as grit fritters, collard greens and corn pudding.
Longstanding steak house Bones has been in business since 1979, and the restaurant has earned a Best of Award of Excellence every year since 1990.
Curated context The wine list is presented on an iPad through a customized software that lets guests browse the selections by variety, region, vintage and more. In addition to standard details, the digital list provides tasting notes, scores and information on the wineries.


James Camp

Canoe’s patio overlooks a beautifully manicured lawn on the shores of the Chattahoochee River.

CANOE
Riverside wine and dining
4199 Paces Ferry Road S.E., Atlanta, Ga.
(770) 432-2663
www.canoeatl.com
Open for lunch and dinner, daily

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 400
Inventory 3,425
Wine strengths Overseen by wine director Jared Lorenz, the program excels in France as well as California, where you’ll find big-name producers like Screaming Eagle and Continuum.
Cuisine Chef Matt Basford incorporates Pan-Asian inspiration into his American cuisine. The result is plates like shiitake-crusted venison with udon noodles. Plus, to honor Basford’s Australian roots, there’s an appetizer of peppercorn-crusted kangaroo.
Natural backdrop Canoe is set on the banks of the Chattahoochee River. Though it’s only about a 20-minute drive from downtown Atlanta, the restaurant feels peacefully secluded, surrounded by lush greenery with a large porch for outdoor dining. Lounge chairs are placed around the property, where guests can enjoy a drink with a side of scenery.
Vibrant venue The restaurant has multiple event spaces for booking, including a wine room decorated with prized bottles. Canoe also hosts its own outdoor live-music series.


Restaurant Eugene

Locally sourcing ingredients is a big priority at Restaurant Eugene.

RESTAURANT EUGENE
Presenting a sense of place through food and wine
2277 Peachtree Road N.E., Atlanta, Ga.
(404) 355-0321
www.restauranteugene.com
Open for dinner, Wednesday to Sunday

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 400
Inventory 900
Cuisine The regional American menu changes daily based on what’s available from local artisans and farmers. Chef Chris Edwards treats the local ingredients with French techniques to craft dishes such as overnight pork belly, lacquered quail and a trio of beef with creamed shiitake and arugula.
From-scratch approach Restaurant Eugene creates as much of its ingredients in-house as possible, from sauces to basic pantry staples. It’s all part of the concept’s mission to showcase the bounty of local purveyors.
Wine strengths Wine director Alexandra Brashears is one of several sommeliers who can help guests peruse the eclectic list. France, California, Italy and Washington are the strongest regions in the program.
Strong by-the-glass selections Choose from more than 40 wines by the glass, including 13 high-end labels available by Coravin pour and priced by the ounce. These premium picks cover benchmark producers such as Trimbach and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.


Alexa Bendek

Starters at White Oak Kitchen & Cocktails include this charred octopus dish.

WHITE OAK KITCHEN & COCKTAILS
Regional cooking and a global wine list
270 Peachtree St., Atlanta, Ga.
(404) 524-7200
www.whiteoakkitchen.com
Open for lunch and dinner, daily

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 485
Inventory 3,275
Wine strengths Wine director Cindy LeBlanc offers a well-rounded, international wine list. The program shines in classic regions such as France (especially Burgundy), Italy, California and Spain, but Greece and Hungary are also represented.
Cuisine Ingredients like okra, Louisiana redfish and pork belly get a modern reboot from chef Megan Brent on the regional American menu. Even the side dishes are exciting, like cauliflower grits and wild mushroom étouffée and maple-roasted sunchokes.
Southern comfort The dining room reflects the menu’s contemporary Southern feel with white oak panels, exposed light fixtures and three custom chandeliers made from sugar maple from the Jack Daniel’s distillery.
Bar-centric space Under a round, wooden structure meant to look like a barrel, White Oak has a 360-degree bar made with Georgia marble. It’s an ideal spot for lingering over one of more than 30 wines by the glass.


City Winery Atlanta

City Winery Atlanta has an array of small and large plates to pair with the 360 wine selections.

CITY WINERY ATLANTA
Serious wines in a fun, casual setting
650 North Ave. N.E., Atlanta, Ga.
(404) 946-3791
www.citywinery.com/atlanta
Open for lunch and dinner, daily

Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 360
Inventory 2,100
Interactive experience City Winery combines a music venue, restaurant and winery all under one roof. The brand has four other locations that hold Best of Awards of Excellence in New York, Chicago, Nashville and Boston.
Wine strengths Managed by wine director JR Smith, the program is strongest in France, California and Italy. Grape varieties are listed with each selection for an easy-to-navigate, approachable format. Various house wines are served on-tap from the on-site winery, which you can visit by booking a tour through City Winery’s website.
Special section A “reserve” page lists a handful of higher-end bottles to accompany the otherwise moderately-priced selections. Offerings rotate but have included labels such as Schrader Cellars Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford GIII Beckstoffer Georges III Vineyard 2007 ($900) and a magnum of Joseph Phelps Insignia Napa Valley 1992 ($760).
Cuisine Chef Mario Manzini executes City Winery’s signature menu of regional American dishes like deviled eggs with turmeric aioli, pork chop Milanese and braised duck tacos.


Andrew Thomas Lee

Chef and restaurateur Ford Fry’s Atlanta empire includes Award of Excellence winner St. Cecilia.

ST. CECILIA
Mediterranean coast–inspired dining
3455 Peachtree Road N.E., Atlanta, Ga.
(404) 554-9995
www.stceciliaatl.com
Open for lunch, Sunday to Friday and dinner, daily

Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 260
Inventory 1,500
Wine strengths The moderately-priced list is strongest in Italy, France and California, covering benchmark producers from Albert Bichot and R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia to Ruinart and Opus One.
Informative format Wine director Eduardo Porto Carreiro fills the list with helpful information. Each selection is accompanied by the grape varieties, a tasting note and a brief description of the bottling.
Cuisine The Italian-leaning European fare from chef Damon Wise brings the feel of coastal Mediterranean dining to the landlocked city. Pastas and seafood shine on the menu, which offers plates such as squid-ink spaghetti and a lobster and clam pan roast.
Ford Fry family St. Cecilia is one of four Award of Excellence winners in Atlanta from local chef and restaurateur Ford Fry. The group includes American concepts King + Duke and State of Grace, and the French steak house, Marcel.


Keep up with the latest restaurant news from our award winners: Subscribe to our free Private Guide to Dining newsletter, and follow us on Twitter at @WSRestoAwards and Instagram at @WSRestaurantAwards.

Peak Wine Lists for a European Ski Trip (Wine Spectator)

Set in some of the world’s top skiing regions, these Wine Spectator Restaurant Award winners lift the romance of winter getaways to new heights. Experience modern luxuries amid historic surroundings, from family-owned resorts in St.-Moritz to a wine-centric Italian restaurant at the site of several venues for the 2006 Winter Olympics. Plus, each of these destinations has a summer season, so you can experience them in an entirely new way during the warmer months.

To check out more wine-and-food destinations around the world, see Wine Spectator’s more than 3,500 Restaurant Award–winning picks, including the 91 Grand Award recipients worldwide that hold our highest honor.

Do you have a favorite you’d like to see on this list? Send your recommendations to [email protected]. We want to hear from you!


Albert Premier

Chef Damien Leveau creates contemporary French dishes at Albert Premier.

ALBERT PREMIER
Showcasing local ingredients and French wines
Hameau Albert Premier, 38 Route du Bouchet, Chamonix, France
(33) 4-50-53-05-09
www.hameaualbert.fr
Open for lunch and dinner, Thursday to Tuesday

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 1,000
Inventory 20,000
Cuisine For $116, guests can experience a six-course menu of regional French dishes that changes daily. Chef Damien Leveau incorporates prized ingredients from the French and Italian Alps like char from Lake Geneva, snails from the Mont Blanc region, local meats and Alpine cheeses. There’s also an abbreviated menu available on weekdays for $83 and a 10-course menu with an Italian theme for $177.
Wine strengths French selections make up the bulk of the list, with exceptional picks from Burgundy and the Rhône. You’ll find dozens of grands crus from top Burgundy producers such as Domaine Leflaive, Domaine de la Romanée-Conti and Bonneau du Martray. A wine pairing is available with the 10-course menu for an additional $108 per person.
From modest guesthouse to modern hotel Located in the winter-sports destination of France’s Mont Blanc region, Hameau Albert Premier is still owned by its founders, the Carrier family. Though it opened in 1903, the hotel offers all the comforts of contemporary lodging across various guest rooms and private cabins, plus a spa with extensive treatment options.


El Paradiso & Uppergrade

Dine surrounded by St.-Moritz mountains at El Paradiso.

EL PARADISO
Sky-high Swiss cuisine
Via Engadina, Suvretta, St.-Moritz, Switzerland
(41) 81-833-4002
www.elparadiso.ch
Open for lunch and dinner, daily, Dec. 8, 2018, to March 31, 2019; call ahead for hours, June 29, 2019, to Sept. 15, 2019

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 750
Inventory 9,950
Standout Swiss wines Drink local with more than 10 pages of diverse Swiss selections, from traditional varieties like Riesling and Pinot Noir to Chardonnay and a handful of rosés.
Wine strengths Wine director Anja Zingg’s wine list also excels in German bottlings, with Rieslings going back to the 1980s and big-name producers such as Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt and Franz Künstler. Similarly strong selections abound in Burgundy, Bordeaux, Italy and Champagne.
Cuisine Chef Frank Schuster’s Swiss menu is moderately priced but offers decadent additions like shaved truffles and caviar service. The wide-ranging menu presents soups, seafood, meats, pastas and more. Create a customized fondue course with three different types of cheese to choose from and add-ons like cherry brandy and dried beef.
Sweeping snowy views El Paradiso is perched on the Suvretta slope in St.-Moritz. The restaurant’s name hints at a heavenly experience because of several sprawling, open-air terraces boasting outstanding views of the skies and surrounding mountains.


Griggeler Stuba

Griggeler Stuba has a whopping 70,000-bottle cellar.

GRIGGELER STUBA
An Austrian wine authority since 1997
Burg Vital Resort, Oberlech 568, Lech am Arlberg, Austria
(43) 5583-3140
www.burgvitalresort.com
Open for dinner, Sunday to Friday, Dec. 6, 2018, to April 22, 2019; Wednesday to Monday, June 28, 2019, to Sept. 22, 2019

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 3,000
Inventory 70,000
Wine strengths Of all Restaurant Award winners in Austria, Griggeler Stuba has the largest wine inventory and the second-highest number of wine selections on the list (behind Grand Award winner Palais Coburg, which has 5,400 selections). Wine director Thomas Lucian’s extensive program shows strengths across the board, most notably in Austria, Burgundy, Bordeaux, Italy, Spain, Germany and Champagne.
Outstanding Austrian labels Griggeler Stuba has championed local wines since it opened in 1997. Highlights of the Austrian collection include more than 150 large-format options, seven vintages of Franz Hirtzberger Riesling Smaragd Trocken Wachau Spitzer Singerriedel and a vertical of a Johanneshof Reinisch Pinot Noir going back to the 1990s.
Cuisine Starting at $132, the nine-course tasting menu changes daily based on chef Dominic Baumann’s current inspiration. The regional dishes spotlight produce and herbs locally grown in Oberlech.
Collection of cabins Burg Vital Resort has various rooms, suites and apartments throughout seven chalets connected by underground passageways. The property sits at the base of the Arlberg mountains, with easy access to the slopes.


La Bagatelle

At La Bagatelle, a classic wine list meets a regional French menu.

LA BAGATELLE
Fine dining in a peaceful Swiss town
Le Grand Chalet, Neueretstrasse 43, Gstaad, Switzerland
(41) 337-48-76-76
www.grandchalet.ch
Open for lunch and dinner, daily

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 1,000
Inventory 20,000
Cuisine Enjoy a panoramic view of the village of Gstaad from Le Grand Chalet’s restaurant, where chef Stève Williè serves French-influenced regional fare. Several entrées are made for two, like whole sea bass wrapped in pastry and roasted duck breast with wild pepper and Chinese noodles.
Wine strengths Wine director Pedro Ferreira built the well-rounded wine list that’s strongest in Bordeaux, with a growing collection of Burgundy. Producers in the substantial Swiss section include Bovard and Domaine Henri Cruchon. Selections from Italy, the Rhône and Portugal also stand out.
Premium without the price tag Despite its upscale setting, La Bagatelle provides plenty of value on its moderately-priced wine list. There are hundreds of bottles under $100 and an array of half-bottles from around the world.
High-altitude accommodations At 3,600 feet, Le Grand Chalet offers a winter-cabin aesthetic with 21 guest rooms overlooking Gstaad, a tranquil Swiss village that’s been car-free since 1996. The property is surrounded by more than 135 miles of ski slopes and nearly 200 miles of trails for winter hikes.


La Vineria del Colle

In Sestriere, Italy, La Vineria del Colle serves a traditional menu of regional specialties.

LA VINERIA DEL COLLE
A winter destination for Italian wine lovers
Grand Hotel Sestriere, Via Assietta 1, Sestriere, Italy
(39) 0122-76-476
www.lavineriadelcolle.it
Open for lunch and dinner, Wednesday to Monday

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 3,000
Inventory 28,000
Wine strengths Italy shines on wine director Luca Novara’s list, particularly Piedmont and Tuscany. Other international regions—such as Chile, California, Israel and South Africa—are also represented.
Aged Italian bottles The program features standout verticals like seven vintages of Gaja and nearly two dozen vintages of Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia going back to the 1960s.
Cuisine Chef Gnanasegaram Jelaseelan complements the Italian-leaning wine list with regional plates such as grilled lamb chop with rosemary oil and paccheri pasta with pancetta and vegetables.
Historic surroundings Grand Hotel Sestriere is named for the surrounding village, one of the top destinations for skiing in Italy and the site of several venues for the 2006 Winter Olympics. All the rooms and suites boast views of the snow-blanketed mountains.


Jean-Christophe

Le 1947 delivers an intimate dining experience, hosting only about 20 diners each night.

LE 1947
Culinary sophistication in the French Alps
Cheval Blanc Courchevel, 190 Rue Du Jardin Alpin, Courchevel, France
(33) 0-47-90-05-050
www.chevalblanc.com/courchevel/fr/art-culinaire/le-1947.html
Open for dinner, Tuesday through Sunday, Dec 14, 2018, to April 7, 2019

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 1,150
Inventory 15,000
Wine strengths Sommelier Sébastien Labe oversees the wine list at Le 1947, which is mostly French except for a handful of selections from places like Italy, Lebanon, Israel and Germany. Burgundy and Bordeaux are the strongest sections of the list, while there are numerous impressive verticals from top Champagne houses.
Cuisine Each night, only about 20 diners get to experience chef Yannick Alléno’s signature cuisine. The ultramodern yet intimate space sets the stage for the contemporary French plates, which are heavily influenced by seasonality.
Bordeaux bond The hotel is named after the Château Cheval-Blanc domaine in Bordeaux’s St.-Emilion region, while the restaurant is named for Cheval-Blanc’s most legendary vintage. To honor this connection, Le 1947 features a separate list to showcase Château Cheval-Blanc selections, including the rare ’47.
Stress-free skiing The ski service team at Cheval Blanc Courchevel goes above and beyond, setting up your equipment directly on the slopes and preheating ski boots before you arrive. For non-skiing snow lovers, the hotel hosts activities like hot-air balloon rides over the Alpines, sled dog–driven rides to an igloo for Champagne and outdoor workouts with the on-site trainer.


Le Restaurant

Le Restaurant’s dining room exudes Old World glamor.

LE RESTAURANT
A classic restaurant near world-class slopes
The Badrutt’s Palace Hotel, Via Serlas 27, St.-Moritz, Switzerland
(41) 818-37-26-38
www.badruttspalace.com/en/restaurants-bars-club/restaurants/le-restaurant
Open for lunch and dinner, daily, Dec. 1, 2018, to March 31, 2019, and June 28, 2019, to Sept. 1, 2019

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 1,200
Inventory 30,000
Global destination Skiers around the world flock to St.-Moritz for its renowned slopes. Badrutt’s Palace has a prime spot among the Engadin mountains, surrounded by more than 200 miles of slopes with an on-site ski shop and skiing school.
Cuisine The hotel’s Le Restaurant represents classic gourmet dining, complete with caviar service and various tableside preparations. The French-leaning European menu features dishes like sea bass baked in a salt crust and beef stroganoff.
Wine strengths Bordeaux, Burgundy and Champagne are the heart of the wine program. The Italian section is similarly strong, and there are also several Swiss picks for those who prefer to drink local.
Majestic and modern Badrutt’s Palace was built in 1856, but multiple renovations have kept it on the cutting edge of luxury travel. The sprawling property has high-end retail stores, a comprehensive wellness center and eight other dining concepts, including a new location of Best of Award of Excellence winner Restaurant Igniv by Andreas Caminada.


Schloss Elmau

The menu at Luce d’Oro blends French and Japanese cuisines.

LUCE D’ORO
Modern cuisine in a historic resort
Schloss Elmau, In Elmau 2, Elmau, Germany
(49) 8823-18-0
www.schloss-elmau.de
Open for dinner, Wednesday to Saturday

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 1,500
Inventory 19,000
Wine strengths Except for a small California section, the wine list at Luce d’Oro is entirely European, excelling in Germany, Austria, Italy and France. Wine director Marie-Helen Krebs has significantly grown the program in the past two years, adding 200 labels to the wine list and 2,000 bottles to the cellar.
Vintage variety Luce d’Oro offers an average of two vintages per wine selection. The wine list is filled with strong verticals; for example, eight vintages of Méo-Camuzet, nine vintages of Bassermann-Jordan Riesling Trockenbeerenauslese Pfalz Deidesheimer Hohenmorgen and 11 vintages of Ornellaia.
Cuisine Japanese influences add a modern, creative twist to chef Christoph Rainer’s menu, which features dishes like scallop with miso and venison with red shiso and sesame.
Cultural hotspot For more than a century, Schloss Elmau has been hosting a wide range of events such as concerts, readings and talks by visiting speakers. Concert tickets are included with your stay, and some musical performances at the hotel’s Al Camino Bar are exclusively for Schloss Elmau guests.


Post Stuben

Post Stuben has been owned by the same family for more than 80 years.

POST STUBEN
Family hospitality at its best
Hotel Gasthof Post, Dorf 11, Lech Am Arlberg, Austria
(43) 5583-2206-0
www.postlech.com
Open for lunch and dinner, daily, Nov. 30, 2018, to April 22, 2019

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 610
Inventory 12,485
Cuisine Hotel Gasthof Post’s Post Stuben creates comforting cuisine to bring travelers a sense of home. Chef David Wagger executes the menu of regional specialties such as Tafelspitz, a dish made with beef boiled in broth, and Kaiserschmarren, a dessert likened to a shredded pancake.
Homey luxury Owned by the Moosbrugger family since 1937, the hotel is located in the heart of Lech, a famed winter sports region. The rooms maintain a country-charm feel with cozy accents like wood paneling, antique pieces and intricate carvings.
Wine-producing proprietors Two members of the Moosbrugger family, Michael and Eva, own the winery Schloss Gobelsburg. Labels from the historic estate are showcased on the first two pages of Post Stuben’s wine list, highlighting its most important varieties, Grüner Veltliner and Riesling.
Wine strengths In addition to showcasing the Moosbruggers’ label, the wine program champions a range of Austrian producers like Karl Fritsch and Johanneshof Reinisch. The list is also strong in France, especially Burgundy, as well as Italy and Spain.


The Restaurant at the Chedi Andermatt

Golden accents and dark wood panels create a sleek yet comfortable atmosphere in the Restaurant at the Chedi Andermatt.

THE RESTAURANT AT THE CHEDI ANDERMATT
Alpine dining with an Asian twist
The Chedi Andermatt, Gotthardstrasse 4, Andermatt, Switzerland
(41) 041-88-874-88
www.thechediandermatt.com/en/Restaurants/The-Restaurant
Open for lunch and dinner, daily

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 1,205
Inventory 10,000
Cuisine Four open kitchens throughout the restaurant churn out chef Dietmar Sawyere’s eclectic menu. The dishes draw inspiration from southeast Asian cuisines—think Chinese, Indian, Vietnamese and Thai—while incorporating local specialties. A walk-in cellar holds more than 40 varieties of Swiss cheese for guests to peruse.
Wine strengths To complement the diverse menu, wine director Simon Gustafsson’s selections span the globe, with an emphasis on Switzerland and additional strengths in France, especially Burgundy, as well as Germany. A rotating selection of high-end wines are available by Coravin.
Bordeaux-boasting cellar One of the restaurant’s numerous wine-storage rooms, the Wine Cave, is decorated with barrels and a private collection of 64 vintages of Château Mouton-Rothschild. The space is available for booking private dinners.
Combining cultures Like its restaurant, the Chedi Andermatt hotel shows substantial Asian influence. Design details include natural stone floors and dark wood panels, and in the spa, guests can indulge in customizable Eastern treatments and kick back at the Tibetan Relaxation Lounge.


Restaurant Igniv by Andreas Caminada

Restaurant Igniv by Andreas Caminada showcases the Swiss chef’s renowned regional cuisine.

RESTAURANT IGNIV BY ANDREAS CAMINADA
Local specialties from a Swiss chef
Grand Resort Bad Ragaz, Bernhard-Simonstrasse, Bad Ragaz, Switzerland
(41) 081-303-30-30
www.igniv.com
Open for lunch and dinner, Wednesday to Sunday

Best of Award of Excellence
Wine list selections 600
Inventory 40,000
Cuisine Chef Silvio Germann executes the culinary vision of Swiss chef Andreas Caminada. The regional dishes are available à la carte, but the restaurant is known for its “Sharing Experiences.” The core prix-fixe menu consists of three courses for $150, and guests can opt for three or five additional surprise components for $40 or $60, respectively.
Wine strengths Wine director Francesco Benvenuto highlights Swiss selections and rounds out the list with strengths in classic regions of Burgundy, Italy and Bordeaux. Among the many exciting verticals are more than 10 vintages each of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti and Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée St.-Vivant.
Choose your adventure The encompassing Grand Resort Bad Ragaz is in close proximity to the skiing areas of Grisons, Glarus and St. Gallen. Activities range from thrilling ice-wall climbing and high-altitude ski tours to more laid-back options like snowshoe hikes and natural ice rinks.
Culinary packages Restaurant Igniv offers several packages through the resort, with perks such as limousine service to a six-course lunch in a historic nearby castle and wine tastings with Benvenuto.


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Unfiltered: New Mouton 2016 Art Label Is Here to Party (Wine Spectator)

Bordeaux’s Château Mouton-Rothschild makes a serious wine, but the newly unveiled label for the 2016 vintage shows it’s not afraid to cut loose and get down. Following in the first-growth’s famous annual tradition, the label features original artwork, and William Kentridge‘s creation, titled Triumphs of Bacchus, depicts a scene of full-on claret merriment, with a joyful procession of chalice-wielding, vine-crowned figures in silhouette.

“I am especially happy with the choice of William Kentridge for the label of Mouton 2016 and with the work he has offered us for the vintage,” Mouton co-owner Julien de Beaumarchais de Rothschild told Unfiltered of the Johannesburg-born painter, sculptor, video artist and stage director, “not only because he is the first artist in the collection from the African continent but also because his talent is that of both a great graphic artist and a man of the theater, which in that respect corresponds to a passion that runs through the family from my great-grandfather Baron Henri, a playwright, to my mother Baroness Philippine, a well-known actress.”

Kentridge drew his inspiration for the label from the paintings of great masters like Titian and Matisse. The artist has exhibited in venues ranging from the Venice Biennial to the MoMA in New York. Most recently, he conceived and directed the 2018 performance piece The Head and the Load, about Africans who served in Europe during World War I.

Art, of course, has long been central to the narrative at Mouton, owned by siblings de Beaumarchais de Rothschild, Philippe Sereys de Rothschild and Camille Sereys de Rothschild. Since 1945, the estate has commissioned a design by a celebrated artist to illustrate the label of the latest vintage ready for shipment; artists are paid in wine.

Deepix, Courtesy of Château Mouton-Rothschild

The Versailles Celebration case art labels, from left: Lee Ufan, Jeff Koons, Anish Kapoor, Bernar Venet and Giuseppe Penone

It’s no surprise, then, that the Kentridge label isn’t the only artistic endeavor for the estate this year: Mouton also recently announced an auction of 75 “Versailles Celebration” cases of five vintages each, to benefit restoration projects at the Palace of Versailles. For the boxed set, Mouton chose vintages with labels from five contemporary artists—Giuseppe Penone (2005), Bernar Venet (2007), Anish Kapoor (2009), Jeff Koons (2010) and Lee Ufan (2013)—who have also exhibited at the former royal residence and Unesco World Heritage Site.

Courtesy of Château Mouton-Rothschild

“Cel-e-bra-tion case, come on! (It’s a celebration.)”

“Interestingly enough, the artists are very international,” Philippe Sereys de Rothschild, chairman and CEO of Baron Philippe de Rothschild SA, told Unfiltered. “A hundred percent of the profits go to Versailles. And we decided right in the beginning that we would do a limited series.” The case for the 75 five-bottle sets is designed to evoke an intricate puzzle box.

Sotheby’s will be auctioning the sets in Hong Kong, London and New York, starting on April 1, 2019, and successful bidders will also win a ticket to a Versailles celebration gala and a private tasting at Mouton. Meanwhile, based on reviews so far, the 2016s coming out in the coming months should put a spring in the step of all Bordeaux lovers.


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