Category: Travel

Our slow travel series explores how you can take more mindful journeys by train, boat, bus or bike – with tips on how to reach your no-fly destination, and what to see and do along the way. Here, writer Marcia DeSanctis reports on crossing the Canadian Rockies by train – and the natural wonders she saw in Jasper National Park during a stop-off.  

The Canadian Rockies form a vast and pristine wilderness straddling the provinces of British Columbia and Alberta. This region covers an area of 180,000 sq km (69,500 sq miles), contains seven national parks and provides some of the most dramatic scenery on earth.

The value of a visit here lies, in part, in its remoteness. So to get there, I hopped a train in Vancouver for Unesco World Heritage site Jasper National Park, 510 miles away. The next train to Edmonton, my ultimate destination, would not be for four days. 

---

Scout new ways to explore the planet’s wildest places with our weekly newsletter delivered to your inbox.

Departure

“If we can’t export the scenery, then we’ll have to import the tourists,” declared Canadian Pacific Railway President William Cornelius Van Horne in 1880. With adventure on the brain, I boarded at Vancouver’s Pacific Central Station to complete the first leg of the route Via Rail Canada has branded the Canadian (it crosses the continent, all the way to Toronto).

For my night on board, I secured a Sleeper Plus Cabin for two (even though I was solo). The train, built in the 1950s, retains a romantic authenticity: stainless-steel fixtures, etched glass, worn leather chairs and a handsome, old-world dining car. “It’s a rolling museum,” said service coordinator Sean Pidgeon.

My class of service gave me access to a lounge and the Dome, an elevated car enclosed in glass offering 360-degree views of the landscape. Darkness fell soon after we left the station, so I chose the early dinner seating, and was placed at a table with three other travelers. I returned to see my sitting room transformed to a cozy bedroom. I slept well as the train trundled south, intermittently awakening to the soothing rumble of wheels on the track.

I awoke at 5am to see the sunrise – only to remember that in northern winter day breaks much later. I sipped coffee in the Dome until the first muted rays of morning opened up a landscape that hardly looked real. I saw jagged snowy peaks, plunging valleys, frozen lakes, granite ravines and dense stands of lodgepole pines and pale-white birch. 

The train powered through a heavy snowfall, reaching an altitude of about 5000ft before we descended into a valley, snaking along iced-over rivers and streams. We were deep into the Rockies, passing the highest peak in the range, Mt Robson, as well as the frozen wonders of Pyramid Falls and Moose Lake. At Yellowhead Pass, just before the Alberta border, we crossed the continental divide, where water flows either west to the Pacific or east to the Atlantic. 

Welcome to Jasper: Banff’s cool little brother

Twenty-one hours later, I arrived in Jasper, picked up my rental car, and checked into my room at Fairmont Jasper Park Lodge. No more relaxing in the quiet of a train: the next days would be all about immersion in nature, and exploring Jasper’s distinctive culture and style. 

I met Estelle Blanchette, who runs Jasper Food Tours, for a spin through this small, utterly captivating mountain town, which has a surprisingly eclectic and unique food scene. We went to four restaurants and bars, sampling elk meatloaf, falafel, a succulent pork rib and maple cheesecake. We sipped beer from Jasper Brewing Co., a range of Canadian wines and, at Fiddle River, something marvelous called Sortilège – Canadian whiskey flavored with maple syrup. 

Different from Banff, another national park and a somewhat glossier town 180 miles to the southeast, Jasper is laid-back and intimate. More than three hours from the nearest airport in Edmonton, Jasper is a destination for the daring, the curious and the bold. “Jasper is Banff’s cool little brother,” is a commonly heard bon-mot around town. 

Jasper Park Lodge has Hollywood links: Marilyn Monroe checked in when she was filming River of No Return, and Bing Crosby loved to golf here back in the day. Nonetheless, the 100-year-old JPL is a wild expanse of a place. With low-slung log cabins, and a Great Hall constructed of fieldstone and cedar, the property is an organic extension of the national park that surrounds it. At the hotel, you can grab a fat-tire bike, or use the hotel as a base for backcountry exploration, or skate on the lake. There is an entire building of gear to make all these wintry pursuits possible (and fair-weather ones, too). Elk – known as “wapiti” in the Cree language, for “white rump” – graze around the property’s perimeter (separated by a fence, of course).

The Jasper Planetarium is located at the hotel: Jasper National Park is a noted Dark Sky preserve. Each night, there is an excellent show in the dome, as well as stargazing with experts, with the help of powerful telescopes. I saw the constellation Auriga, the star cluster Pleiades, Jupiter and four of its moons, bright pink Mars, and this year’s celebrated Comet E3 ZTF – a blue smudge in the sky. 

In the morning, under a powdery snow, I met a van from Sundog Tours for a wildlife tour. We spotted no wolves or lynx on this run, but did see many elk, mule deer and bighorn sheep on the crags. And tons of frozen landscapes: along the Athabasca River, and glacier-fed Medicine, Jasper, Maligne and Talbot Lakes, it was one spectacular vista after another. Spindrift swirled in ghostly clouds over the white bodies of water.  

It’s never a mistake to visit the local history museum. In the afternoon, after a bowl of JPL’s famous tomato soup, I went for a tour of the Jasper-Yellowhead Museum & Archives, to learn more about Jasper’s human, economic and geological past as a transportation and fur trading hub. I had crispy Brussels sprouts and pork belly at Terra in town for dinner – further proof that Jasper is a thriving center for innovative, local-based cuisine. 

Icefields Parkway, which connects Jasper with Banff National Park, is consistently named one of the most beautiful drives in the world. For this, I needed a National Park pass, which I placed on my dashboard. Advised to pack water and snacks, I set forth at 8am; snow tires are required on rentals, thankfully. The parkway had been closed for three days due to a snowstorm, and there were few cars on the road. I was overwhelmed by the horizon – there was so much raw beauty to take in – and I stopped my car every couple of seconds to take pictures.

I affixed my trusty spikes, and hiked up to the blue-ice mass at Athabasca Falls – and it was dizzying and powerful to look down into the gorge. I hoped no stray grizzly would come out of hibernation. Next, I trekked up to Sunwapta Falls, and stared with some trepidation at the great frozen chasm below. About 90 minutes into the Icefields drive, a storm churned up, so I turned back to the warmth and safety of JPL. 

In the evening, next to a firepit on the property, I had a fireside chat with Matricia Bauer, a member of the Cree tribe and founder of Warrior Women. Until they were forcibly expelled in 1907, an estimated 26 Indigenous tribes inhabited and connected with the land that became Jasper National Park. Bauer, whose Cree name is Iskoachitawichy, or She Who Moves Mountains, aims to “indigenize the world, one drum beat at a time,” by reviving and retelling the stories of Canada’s First Nations people. 

She was joined by Theresa Westhaver, a member of the Secwépemc tribe and the Indigenous Relations Liaison to Jasper National Park. The pair sang some intertribal songs, and one in the Cree language, keeping tempo with their drums. Among the many fascinating bits of knowledge: their respective tribal languages have no commonalities. “They are as similar as English and Chinese,” Westhaver told me. 

The Ice Walk into Maligne Canyon descends 165ft (50m) into the limestone gorge. Slippery conditions were no issue with spikes, and the team also furnished us with tall rubber boots (and helmets, in case of falling chunks) for the slushy parts. We passed several waterfalls, frozen like monumental sculptures on the cliffsides, as well as caves, ice shelves and smooth canyon walls carved by water. The tour includes lunch, and the bison chili hit the spot after an active morning. 

I asked around the hotel for the best place to see sunrise in Jasper, and decided on Pyramid Lake, about 15 minutes away. There is not a lot original to say about witnessing the dawn of a new day, even an exquisite one such as I saw over the towering, snow-capped summit of Mt Edith Cavell. Yet I believe that even when it demands patience, even it is 15°F outside, watching the first light pour from the sky is a most intimate occasion, and one that connects a traveler indelibly to a place. 

Under a clear blue sky, I was back on the Via Rail train to Edmonton. Service manager Priyan Thomas welcomed me, and said, “I’ve been doing this for 25 years, and the views are so beautiful, I’m still taking videos every time I go through the Rockies.”

Edmonton: A sweet ending to a brilliant journey 

An hour into the trip, the land flattened out. We were on the edge of the great Canadian prairie – and in a snowstorm, with ferocious-looking winds, I understood why people prefer the six-hour train to the 3.5-hour drive. After dinner, I arrived in Edmonton and checked into the JW Marriott Ice District, a skyscraper. This former frontier town is today a city of 1.5 million people. 

I met Kieth Diakiw of Talking Rock Tours for a fascinating walk through the cultural and geological history of the North Saskatchewan River Valley. Edmonton has the longest stretch of contiguous urban parkland in North America, and it feels almost alive with history: of the colonial settlers who set up a western outpost of the fur-trading Hudson’s Bay Company, and the Blackfoot, Cree, Dene, Iroquois and other Nations that were the region’s first inhabitants. Diakiw is métis, someone of mixed European and Indigenous race, and he led me to a sacred burial ground, as well as to the Indigenous Art Park, where vibrant works by six artists were on display. 

For my last dinner in Canada, I ate at Biera, one of the brightest stars on Edmonton’s food scene. I had fromage blanc dumplings, served with a sauce of kale, lemon and whey, as well as a flight of house-brewed micro beers. For the plane home, I packed a couple of salted caramel and rose macarons from Little Duchess Bake Shop, which I sought out in the afternoon. It was a sweet ending to a brilliant journey to Western Canada. 

What I bought

Lots of books for the quiet time back at the lodge, and then for the train to Edmonton. I picked them up in downtown Jasper and at the museum, both as mementos and for research. I love digging deep into a place you are spending time. 

What I brought

Microspikes are easy to slip onto my all-weather, waterproof Lowa Renegade hiking boots. They are also instant miracles: the crampons make me feel like Spider-Man when I walk on ice, with my confidence, balance and safety improving immeasurably. And my Black Diamond retractable poles are very handy to pack – plus, they carry all sorts of memories for me. 

New Orleans is a fairly small city, but it’s big enough that getting around town can require some planning.

If you’re staying in the French Quarter, avoid the congestion, potholes and lack of parking by getting around on foot. But if you’re looking to explore more of the city, you’ll need more than your own two feet by making use of the relatively limited public transportation. Here’s everything you need to know about getting around New Orleans.

Squeeze every moment out of your next vacation with tips and tricks from Lonely Planet in our weekly newsletter delivered to your inbox.

Slide along in an iconic streetcar

The streetcars of New Orleans sort of sum up Crescent City: beautiful, graceful, antique, old-school, infused with history and romance but not terribly efficient. As a form of transportation you can get around using them, but only certain places. The streetcars cover a lot of tourist-friendly areas, including Canal Street (which runs between the French Quarter and the Central Business District), St Charles Avenue (which cuts through the Garden District and Uptown, including South Carrollton Avenue), the Riverfront Line (which again, runs the edge of the French Quarter) and Rampart Street (which forms the border between the French Quarter and Treme).

It’s worth noting that even with the Rampart, Riverfront and Canal St lines, the French Quarter is not really served by streetcar — these routes form a perimeter outside the Quarter, and you’ll still have to walk to get into the neighborhood. Similarly, the Rampart line follows the curve of the northern boundary of the Marigny (note that the Rampart line also remains closed because of the 2019 collapse of the Hard Rock Hotel; it is hoped it will reopen in 2023, fingers crossed. 

The streetcars are not fast, but they do have a clacking air of nostalgia. They’re run by the Regional Transit Authority. Fares cost $1.25; you’ll need exact change if you want to use cash, but you can also use the NORTA app or purchase a Jazzy Pass, good for unlimited rides and usable on buses, too. Streetcars ostensibly run 24 hours a day, but as you might guess, the service gets slower as the night wears on.

Go further on board the bus

New Orleans has a pretty extensive bus system. It’s not the fastest means of getting around, but the buses more or less go everywhere, and they’re inexpensive (same as the streetcar, $1.25). You’ll want to plan ahead, though, if you’re focusing on using the bus as your means of getting around, and be aware that a good chunk of your time will be spent in transit.

Cycling is an option

New Orleans is a funny city for cycling. In general, we recommend it: you’ll have time to gawk at the city’s architecture, and the geography of the city (ie flat and compact) lends itself to bicycle exploration. Plus, there’s a whole fleet of blue bikes in the city’s bike-share program, available for those who want to pedal around. There’s a thriving, economically and racially diverse cycling community here that is enthusiastic about getting around town on two wheels; Nola Social Ride is a great resource for those who want to know about upcoming cycling events or where to find a good rental or repair shop.

The picture isn’t all rosy, though. Potholes abound and although bike lanes are expanding, they’re often taken up by inconsiderate or unaware car drivers. Locals are becoming more accustomed to bicycles, but we still don’t recommend cycling along major streets like Broad, and even St Claude Avenue, which has an established bike lane, can feel dangerous to pedal on, especially at night. And then there’s the weather: New Orleans is humid (often topping 70% humidity) and summer can last, without exaggeration, for six months, so you’ll want to stay hydrated and, especially if you’re coming from somewhere significantly cooler and/or drier, give yourself a day or two to acclimate. Then, consider whether or not you want to arrive at your destination somewhat sweaty.

Soak up the neighborhood vibes on foot

Downtown neighborhoods – like the French Quarter, Faubourg Marigny, Treme and the Bywater, as well as the Garden District and the CBD and Warehouse District – are best explored on foot. You can walk the length of the French Quarter in about 15 to 20 minutes, and less than that in the Marigny. This is a city where casual conversations between neighbors on porches is a time-honored tradition, and you get to really see these knots in the social fabric while walking. Do stick to well-lit roads at night and keep your wits about you; street crime is a reality. 

Uptown and Mid-City are physically large neighborhoods broken up by walkable clusters of activity, especially around Magazine Street and Oak Street in Uptown, and Bayou St John and Esplanade Avenue.

Get where you need to go in a car or taxi

Taxis are generally the most practical and budget-friendly means of transportation for getting around New Orleans, and recommended if you’re traveling alone or at night. It’s generally easy to hail a taxi on the street in the French Quarter and other busy areas, but elsewhere you might need call one (there are several cab companies in town, including United Cabs) or use one of the ride-hailing apps. 

Renting a car is a good option if you’re planning to be outside the main tourist areas, and, of course, the big plus for renting a car is that when you have your own wheels in New Orleans, you can get outside of town too — day trips to places like the Barataria Preserve become a lot more feasible. 

If you do rent a car be aware that the roads here can be pretty bad and parking in the French Quarter is almost inevitably a nightmare and/or expensive — you’ll either have to shell out for a parking garage or look for street parking nearby. If you go with the latter choice, be cautious walking at night and note that on-street parking is typically short-term only; check the meters (one meter often serves an entire block, so don’t assume parking is free just because there’s no meter on the curb immediately beside where you park) as well as the parking signs carefully (street cleaning rules limit parking on certain streets) so that you don’t get a pricy parking ticket. Outside of the Quarter and the CBD, parking is generally not too difficult to find, but again, if you have to walk, remember crime is real. Be wary without being paranoid.

Take the ferry across the Mississippi

The Algiers Ferry runs from the foot of Canal St to Algiers Point, a neighborhood on the Mississippi River’s west bank side, full of wedding-cake cottages and general local cuteness. The Algiers Ferry is a beloved means of commuting for many locals; watching the waters spread out on all sides is humbling and beautiful.

There’s not a lot of accessible transportation in New Orleans

New Orleans is somewhat lax in this department. Sidewalk curbs rarely have ramps, and many historic public buildings and hotels are not equipped to meet the needs of wheelchair users. Modern hotels adhere to standards established by the federal Americans with Disabilities Act by providing ramps, elevators and accessible bathrooms.

Red streetcars on the Canal St, Rampart Riverfront and Loyola-UPT Streetcar lines are accessible to riders with disabilities. Some of the Green streetcars that travel the St Charles Avenue line are accessible. 

Regional Transit Authority buses offer a lift service; for information about paratransit service (alternative transportation for those who can’t ride regular buses), call RTA Paratransit. The RTA has also partnered with the nonprofit Lighthouse Louisiana to develop the Assistance Card Program, which benefits riders of public transportation who are blind, deaf-blind or have low vision.

When traveling through Tuscany in the warmer months of the year, it is not unusual to encounter parades of people wearing colorful, traditional clothing inspired by medieval culture. Historic reenactments are deeply rooted in local folklore, bringing Tuscans back to an era of city-states, tower houses, and clashing dynasties.

If a town in the region has been around for a while, you can be pretty sure there’s a festival that pays tribute to its history. Siena has its Palio, Arezzo has its Giostra del Saracino, Montepulciano has its Bravìo delle Botti – I could go on and on. None of these celebrations, however, can compare to Florence’s calcio storico, held each year in June in Piazza di Santa Croce.

Picture this: fifty four (mostly bare-chested) men beating each other up on a 5000-square-meter sand arena – known as the sabbione – set up for the occasion in the heart of this Renaissance city, surrounded by 4000 cheering spectators and half a dozen ambulances ready to welcome injured athletes on board. It is just as brutal as it sounds – calcio storico is an early version of football that combines kicking the ball with boxing, wrestling and rugby-style tackles. The four teams represent each of Florence’s historic neighborhoods – the Bianchi (Whites) of Santo Spirito, the Azzurri (Blues) of Santa Croce, the Rossi (Reds) of Santa Maria Novella, and the Verdi (Greens) of San Giovanni – and they give everything in pursuit of winning the title.

Get local insight on destinations all over the world with our weekly newsletter delivered to your inbox.

The origins of the calcio storico fiorentino

Although its origins are somewhat uncertain – the sport is regarded as an heir to harpastum, a game Romans played as early as the 1st century BCE – 1530 is typically referred to as the year when calcio storico fiorentino was born. Back then, football was already a popular pastime in the streets of Florence and elsewhere in Italy. The year 1530, however, was marked by an event that would remain stuck in the city’s collective memory.

In 1527, a violent revolt broke out in Florence against the ruling Medici family, who were ousted from power and expelled from the city. Florence became a republic, but this status was short-lived – Pope Clement VII, a member of the Medici family, struck a deal with Emperor Charles V, asking him to invade the city and reestablish the former government.

The siege was planned for February 17th, 1530. On that same day, a game of calcio had been planned in Santa Croce to celebrate Carnival. As a show of strength, the Florentines decided not to bow to the threats and play anyway. When Charles V’s troops reached the city, they found the Whites and the Greens busy kicking an air-filled leather football in Santa Croce, unmoved despite being on the brink of conflict.

That legendary game made it into history books as the “partita dell’assedio” (“game of the siege”) and inspired the contemporary reenactment that is still played today. Little is known about the popularity of the sport after the 16th century, but in 1930, to commemorate the 400th anniversary of the siege, the city council decided to reintroduce the calcio storico fiorentino tradition. Since then, it has been played every year in June.

The rules of the game

The rules have not changed much since the 16th century. A modern-day calcio storico match lasts 50 minutes. Two teams of 27 players known as calcianti challenge each other to score the largest amount of cacce (goals) on a 50-by-100 meter sand arena. Temperatures often surpass 30 degrees celsius. Each time a goal is scored the teams switch sides, but if a player mistakenly throws the ball over the net rather than into it, half a point is given to the other team.

The calcianti are allowed to attempt a caccia using any and all means available – they can kick the ball with their feet, throw it with their hands, and physically tackle opponents who stand in their way. Bare-knuckle punches, kicks, and clashes are all fair game. Violence is not just expected, but somewhat encouraged by the cheering crowds that populate Santa Croce’s pop-up bleachers, in an atmosphere reminiscent of millennia-old gladiator games.

In the past, blood spilled on the sabbione didn’t always come from athletic endeavors. Games have often turned into full-blown brawls involving both players and their supporters. In 2006 the tournament was suspended after the match turned into a mass fight, with 43 out of 54 players legally prosecuted after the dust had settled. The city council suspended the festival the following year to show how seriously they took the carnage inflicted on the streets. Stories of such incidents are often heard around Florence, especially during the weeks surrounding the tournament when locals enjoy reminiscing about the wild events of the past.

Rules were changed slightly in 2008 to ensure safety and avoid uncontrolled brawls. Only one-on-one clashes are permitted and athletes with serious criminal convictions are no longer allowed in the arena. This didn’t stop some of the Blues team’s players from hitting three referees in 2017, causing police in riot gear to intervene and stop the violence from escalating.

The calcianti are not paid to play in the tournament and they must all be born in Florence or have resided in the city for at least 10 years. The only prize for the winning team, besides the glory, is a Chianina cow with gold-painted horns.

Know before you go

Florence’s calcio storico tournament consists of three games: two semi-finals and one final. The final is always held on June 24, the day Florence celebrates its patron saint John the Baptist, while the other two games typically happen over a weekend in mid June. Despite the violent nature of the game and the incidents that have occurred in the past, it is safe to attend – that is, if you can get tickets.

Getting tickets

Make no mistake, this is a very popular event, beloved by Florentines and attracting increasing interest from outsiders. Tickets go on sale a few weeks before the start of the events and can only be bought in person at the box office on Via delle Vecchie Carceri 1 next to Le Murate. If tickets are still available after the initial sale, they are sold online via TicketOne. 

With only 3000 seats available for the public (and 1000 for guests), tickets tend to sell out fast. Keep an eye on local newspapers for the announcement of the sale and get to the box office early. Prices start at €40.

The “scoppio del carro” fireworks on Easter Sunday

The first event related to the tournament is the Scoppio del Carro, which occurs each year on Easter Sunday in Piazza del Duomo. During this celebration, dating back to the 11th century, an ancient chariot is brought to the city’s most famous square, escorted by soldiers, musicians, and flag throwers, and placed between the Cathedral and the Baptistery.

There, a small rocket shaped like a dove is set on fire, followed by a series of fireworks that symbolize the Holy Fire – the biblical miracle preceding the resurrection. During this event, which attracts thousands to Piazza del Duomo, there is a draw to establish which teams will play against each other in the semifinals.

Flag wavers and legendary musicians

The calcio storico tournament isn’t just confined to the field of play – it involves celebrations that run throughout the city during the month of June. The first match is preceded by a grandiose performance by the Uffizi Flag Wavers and the parade of the Florentine Historical Procession. About five hundred sbandieratori (flag wavers) in medieval clothing cross the city to inaugurate the beginning of the games.

Flag wavers are not the only performers that take to the city streets in celebration. The Musici del Calcio Storico Fiorentino is the oldest musical band in Florence, active since the first calcio storico reenactment in 1930. The seventy musicians in the band open the celebrations with drums and flutes as they parade from the Santa Maria Novella to Santa Croce on the day of the first match. Their most elaborate performance, however, is seen in Santa Croce after the final, when the musicians form a circle to play the Inno della Victoria (Victory Anthem) in the sweat-soaked arena.

Once the games are over, a big party is usually held on the banks of the Arno river, where fireworks in Piazzale Michelangelo can be seen from all over the city.

Beyond folklore

As Florence’s popularity as a vacation destination has grown over the past couple of decades, the calcio storico is often perceived as a spectacle for tourists rather than an actual sports tournament. However, this is not the case and, if you choose to participate, it’s best to keep in mind that this is a heartfelt event that should be taken seriously. Athletes train hard throughout the year to get selected and be in the best possible shape, and ancient rivalries between historic neighborhoods still exist.

A calcio storico inspired lunch

The calcio storico tradition has made its way into Florence’s urban fabric – if you happen to visit the city and decide to get into the game’s atmosphere, you can eat at one of the restaurants that are either run by former calcianti or pay tribute to their neighborhood’s team. These trattorias specialize in local delicacies that are always served with a generous side of Chianti and stories from games past.

The Trattoria I’Raddi, in the Santo Spirito neighborhood, is run by one of the members of the Bianchi team and has long functioned as a gathering spot for the players. Every detail here seems to be a reference to great tournaments of the past, from the neighborhood’s coats of arms to the many pictures of athletes that have made history in the game.

Similarly, the Trattoria I’Brindellone, an old-school eatery in the San Frediano area, is adorned with nostalgic images of glorious calcianti, honoring both the simplicity of Tuscan cuisine and a sporting tradition that has deep roots in Florence’s history but continues to thrive in the present.

The 8,000-year-old rock carvings were likely created by the Tlingit

The smoky snack captures the state’s love for both salmon and preserved foods

In a series of articles, Smithsonian magazine highlights all that draws our eyes to our nation’s fresh and coastal waters

Take a journey back to your elementary school cafeteria with a visit to the Georgia outpost

For historical accuracy, the 33-year-old Brit wears only the cotton dresses, yak wool coats and hobnail boots that her predecessors would have had

My trip to Lisbon was nearly six years ago, but I can still feel it in my body. I love the way that new places get under your skin and become part of your DNA, not just your memory or your camera roll. I couldn’t get over the food, the architecture, the history, the culture – it made me literally break out into song.

I’ll explain. Our evening began innocently enough: sunset views and drinking cocktails at Park in Bairro Alto, followed by dinner and wine at Taberna da Rua das Flores and a nightcap at a burlesque club. Then it seemed that we should call it a night, so we wandered back to our hotel. As we ambled, we came across a stage that had been set up outside Lisbon City Hall, so naturally, we climbed up and began singing a random mash-up of old show tunes.

---

Immerse yourself in the best experiences the world has to offer with our email newsletter delivered weekly into your inbox.

I can’t tell you why we did that – maybe the burlesque? All I know is Lisbon made me need to sing out loud, and celebrate being alive (#Sondheim) and (relatively) young and being in a magical, new (to me) place. 

This is why we travel, no? I spoke with Tiago Filipe, a guide who works with Elsewhere (a Lonely Planet company) crafting custom itineraries for travelers who want the inside track on the best things to do, see, and, perhaps most importantly, eat in Lisboa. We discussed everything he loves about his home city (and country). Take note of his expert food-and-drink recommendations at the end!

Q&A with Elsewhere’s Tiago Filipe

The passion and pride that Tiago Filipe feels for his home is palpable – just talking to him for an hour had me cruising Google Flights and getting tips for my next trip to Portugal.

Where are you from?

I was born and raised in Lisbon. I’ve lived here most of my life.

What made you want to become a guide?

My father was a historian, and we traveled extensively around the country, so I got to know a lot about Portugal. After traveling and traveling, living in Liverpool and Mozambique, the people I’d met along the way started to visit me in Lisbon. So that’s how it began: it was a hobby and grew into a career. Being a proud Portuguese also helps.

What is so special about Lisbon?

I love it. It’s a very beautiful city, but it’s not only that. It’s such a diverse place: the geography, the weather, the beaches. You can be on the coast or in the mountains within 30 minutes. When summer days are longer, I can stop working at six or seven and still have time to go surfing for a couple of hours. I think that’s priceless – it’s truly incredible.

What dishes best define Portuguese cuisine?

That’s a very difficult question. I could give you 30 dishes, and there would still be more. It’s such a small country and yet has an incredibly diverse cuisine – it’s stunning. Some chefs say Portugal has the best fish in the world. We are now in June, the main month of festivities in Portugal.

Grilled sardines are the highlight during this time. We have a number of different seafood stews, like caldeirada, cataplana, massada de peixe, and Açorda de Marisco. And our custard tart – pastel de Belém – is very famous, everyone loves it. It’s probably one of my favorite pastries.

What are some fun sites to see in Lisbon? 

In Belém, visit Jerónimos Monastery. The Old Expo 98 area has all these different thematic gardens, the Ciência Viva (Living Science) Center, the cable car. But the highlight is without a doubt the mind-blowing aquarium, Oceanário. And just walking in Alfama – the narrow and hilly streets and the ambiance of the place.

Is there a day trip or experience near Lisbon you’d recommend?

Visiting the palaces of Sintra. Specifically, Quinta da Regaleira, an estate and palace developed by a Portuguese aristocrat in the 1800s with mystic gardens, a famous spiral well, caves, lakes and tunnels. The Monserrate palace also boasts gorgeous gardens and beautiful architecture, and it’s much less crowded.

When is the best time to visit?

My favorite time of year is October. I also like May – the transition months.

Where do you recommend people stay?

As a guide, I prefer people to stay in hotels because it’s easier for me to control what they’re going to get. Hotels tend to be a bit more hassle-free than Airbnb. I like the Porto Bay properties and the collection of Lisbon Heritage Hotels.

Is there a super touristy thing that one should do?

Get on the yellow tram. It’s a landmark and a highlight of the city. Take it to a high point and walk down, it’s a great way to see the old city.

The best places to eat and drink in Lisbon 

To be in Portugal is to eat. And eat a lot. Here are a few of Tiago’s favorite local spots in Lisbon, and one incredible dish you must travel to the Azores to try.

1. Book an authentic Portuguese restaurant. I like Pinóquio and Rosa da Rua. Both are central and have very Portuguese menus. I also recommend Salsa & Coentros, Dom Feijão, and Ramiro is a classic.

2. Poke around Carnide There are some really good restaurants in this less-trafficked Lisbon neighborhood, including Paço de Carnide and Adega das Gravatas.

3. Listen to live fado. The calm, soft instrumental music is longing and sorrowful. Tasca Bela in Alfama is an old favorite for live fado – and the food is good.

4. Have drinks at Pavilhão Chinês. Not far from Bairro Alto, this bar is in a historic building and decorated like an old curiosity shop. It’s really unusual.

5. Have a meal with ocean views. Enjoying Portugal’s signature seafood dishes is best done by the water at Furnas do Guincho in Cascais or in Sintra at Azenhas do Mar.

6. Go to the Azores for cozido das Furnas. They prepare this meat stew in a pan that is buried underground and naturally heated in the volcanic soil.

 

The Nenana Ice Classic, started in 1917, is a high-stakes guessing game over the date, hour and minute of the ice breakup on the Tanana River