Category: Travel

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Whirling eagles and vultures, sheer limestone gorges, vast steppe grasslands of raw beauty where endangered Przewalski’s horses, straight out of prehistoric cave paintings, and slinking gray shapes of wolves, take refuge – it’s hard to believe this true wilderness is comfortably in reach of the coast and cities of Southern France.

For people who want to see the wild parts of France without having to go into the high mountains, head towards Florac in the heart of the Cévennes National Park. Hike to revel in its landscapes and wildlife, visit its museums to bear witness to poignant battles for religious freedom, and stand still in time seeing farmers and their goats working with the harsh nature as they have for thousands of years.

And at day’s end, wander through chestnut forests to listen for the “phantom of the forests” under the expanse of stars in Europe’s biggest dark sky reserve. Incredible experiences await you at Cévennes National Park – here’s how to get there and what to do when you arrive.

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Experience the rhythm of ancient farming life

The combination of goat bells chiming from steep slopes and darting sheep dogs cleverly doing their work with Cévenol farmers makes you feel linked to hundreds of past generations. The 3000-year-old agro-pastoralism tradition is what got the park its Unesco status as an example of a living and evolving cultural landscape. Be part of this by rounding up goats, helping with milking, and making cheese at one of the oldest eco-museums in France and the Farm des Cévennes. Between June and September, a wide range of other farms open their gates to visitors.

Don’t miss the transhumance, the seasonal movement of animals between summer and winter pastures, in early June in Espérou. This is one of the last places where shepherds still drive their animals on foot (rather than in trucks) along drailles, ancestral paths that run through the park. You’ll be hypnotized by the sight of hundreds of sheep running through villages, wearing red pom-poms, accompanied by music and lots of good food.

Hike through wilderness and history

The park has more than 5000 km of paths of all lengths and boasts 300 one-day hikes where spectacular views of the Mediterranean plains are easy to get from Mount Lozère or Mount Aigoual. Or set off on one of the many 2-3 day circuits along sheer gorges where soaring vultures will make your heart sing. For easy walks for all the family, take the sentiers de decouverte, Interpretative Trails, which explore subjects like local heritage, geology or botany and seek out menhirs and birds.

Several of France’s GR long-distance walking trails cross through the park. The most famous follows the footsteps of Robert Louis Stevenson and his donkey from Puy en Velay towards the Mediterranean. Wend your way over heath-like hills covered in broom wildflowers and through hidden valleys with quiet stone villages each with a tale of the historic past. Pont-de-Montvert, close to the source of the Tarn river, is one of the best preserved, with a fascinating history. Stevenson’s book Travels with a Donkey in the Cévennes is a perfect companion along the way. This was also the spot where the Camisard War started in 1702.

Plunge into the history of religious rebels

The wild hills saw a fascinating part of European history when Protestant Cévenol peasants, camisards, turned to armed revolt after 1685 when Louis XIV clamped down on Protestant religious freedom. War occurred between 1702-1704 and hundreds of villages in the region were destroyed.

Engross yourself in the story of religious freedom and repression in the Musée du Désert in the house of the famous camisard leader, Rolland, aka Pierre Laporte. The displays are in French but a pamphlet with English translation is provided. Feel transported back as you walk around a typical kitchen and bedroom from the time and amongst paintings of the secret congregations in the forests and caves in the hills. See the foldable pulpits and the collection of secret bibles.

Be a humble witness to a wall where Huguenots snatched their place in history by painstakingly
recording the name of every man sent to the galleys and how they died. Be inspired by the stories of the women who never abandoned their faith and were sent to a prison near Montpellier, one of whom wrote letters from there for 37 years. The museum will change your ideas on what the words freedom and strength of character mean.

Plunge deeper into the region’s history in the coal mining museum in the post-industrial town of La Grand’Combe or the museum on the region’s silk industry in Saint-Hippolyte-du-Fort.

Spot vultures, wild horses and listen for the roar

The park has a particularly high number of plant and animal species due to its diverse landscapes and climates. Before you go, spend some time online on the park’s in-depth atlas, which gives information including soundtracks and maps with the latest sightings.

At the Maison des Vautours, take in the plunging view on the Jonte Gorge, learn about the successful reintroduction of the vultures, then lift your head to see their black circling shapes, falcons and maybe the magnificent royal eagle. Get back down to ground level at Micropolis, just outside of the park, where you can spy on the fascinating insect world.

Travel into the vastness of the Causse Méjean for a rare chance to see Przewalski’s horses, the world’s only horses never to have been domesticated. They died out in the wild in the 1960s and have been set free here to readapt before being reintroduced to the Mongolian steppes.

In September and October, pack a torch and dare into the dusk on Mont Aigoual to listen for the “phantoms of the forest”. Nothing beats walking on hills in the dark and hearing the strange roaring of the stags during the breeding season. Several places organize outings including the Maison de l’Aigoual.

Star-gaze in Europe’s biggest International Dark Sky Reserve

Travel up to the top of Mount Aigoual or Mount Lozère for sunset and admire the stunning views out towards the sea and the Pyrenees. When night arrives, listen for the chip chip of flitting bats, the hoots of owls and see the spectacular expanse of stars.

If it’s August, look out for the annual Perseid meteor shower. For dedicated star lovers, there are organized hiking trips led by an astrophysicist and one guesthouse has built a stay around star-gazing, providing telescopes and initiations to constellations.

Travel out of time underground

It’s not strictly in the park, but Demoiselles Cave is worth visiting if you’re driving in from the southeast. Guided visits take you in Europe’s first underground tourist funicular. Be amazed by an immense cathedral-like cavern full of stalactites and stalagmites that have formed over thousands of years into stone forests, petrified mushroom clouds and hanging daggers.

What and where to eat in Cévennes National Park

The people of the Cévennes once lived off chestnuts, the so-called “bread tree” because it saved them in scarce times. Buy them at markets preserved in jars, cooked over coals or delicious with cream in the Cévenol soup. Don’t miss the Chestnut Festivals, especially in Lasalle and Anduze, in Autumn which are a real spectacle of passionate chestnut enthusiasts.

The region is also famous for pelardon, a goat cheese, only produced in the Cévennes, which comes in small rounds from fresh creamy to highly matured and crumbly. It’s delicious on a good fresh baguette and with local honey.

Local markets are a great place to buy the park’s best products. One of the biggest and most typical in the southern part of the Cévennnes is in Lasalle where people flow down out of isolated valleys for the day and are happy to see friends.

One of the delights in the Cevennes is unexpectedly coming across restaurants and bars in isolated villages as neo-rurals bring new life and make the most of local products with French flair as they do at the Balade Gourmande in tiny Soudorgues.

How to get there

The attraction of the Cévennes is its remoteness, but this makes getting there tricky. The best option is to come by car, hired in Montpellier or Nîmes. The roads are narrow and windy, so measure distances in terms of time and not kilometers. Difficult access means visiting the park for at least 2-3 days or longer and sticking to one area is better.

There are few permanent bus routes, but more options in the summer months with additional shuttles (navettes/cars). Information tends to vary with each town and village so head to the tourist office website specific to your chosen location and check out their transport page, ring the local office or check the Occitan transport website. Check the date of the timetable you’re looking at to make sure it’s the latest and beware of changes to timetables during different seasons, on public holidays or weekends.

Where to stay in Cévennes National Park

For a choice of hotels and restaurants choose larger, touristy places like Florac, St Jean du Gard or Anduze and around Mount Lozère – it has a ski resort and is a good option in winter.

Many of the smaller villages have Airbnbs and if situated along the more popular hiking trails, have gîite d’étape – guest houses. For those wanting a sense of life off the tourist trail and with few amenities, head to Le Pont-de-Montvert, Le Bleymard or Sainte Croix Vallée Française. If you stay a week, it’s worth looking at rural guesthouses.

Campsites abound, particularly along the beautiful Mialet and Tarn rivers, which get relatively crowded in summer.

Other planning tips

There is a confusing profusion of websites and tourist offices covering the park, each corresponding to different administrative regions. Many villages have their own tourist office.

The best thing is to choose the geographic area you will travel to and then find the corresponding tourist website or office. Good websites cover the Causses et Gorges, around Mount Lozère, and the southern edges. The park itself has a global information website and a planning platform, as well as three park offices in Florac, Aigoual and Génolhac.

Weather-wise, look out for the épisodes cévenols, periods of extremely heavy downpours usually in Autumn, which can cause flooding and prevent driving.

Many attractions and amenities in the park change timetables or close down completely in winter, so check before you go.

As South Africa‘s flagship coastal city, Cape Town has plenty to offer visitors from stunning surroundings, a fascinating culture, and world-class attractions.

While beach lovers and outdoor enthusiasts will prefer the warmer months, winter in Cape Town has its own perks, making it an appealing year-round destination.

So whether you want to see colorful wildflowers, hike up Table Mountain, or simply relax on the beach, here are the best times to visit Cape Town.

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December to March is the best time for beaches and sunny weather

If you want to head to the beach, the best time to visit Cape Town is in the summer (December to March). This is when you’ll find warm weather, clear skies and long days, creating the perfect mix for sun-seekers.

The weather does get hot, especially in January and February, when average temperatures hover around 86°F (30°C). Cool down by dipping your toes in the cold water of the white sands of Camps Bay Beach or Clifton’s four beaches on Cape Town’s Atlantic coast. For warmer water, head to False Bay, half an hour’s drive south of the city center, but be prepared for crowds.

As the peak season, expect lots of music, art, and cultural events. The city comes alive with Christmas and New Year festivities too, with street decorations and bustling Christmas markets selling gifts, crafts and food. The city’s Christmas lights are switched on during the Festival of Lights on the first Sunday in December. Kirstenbosch Gardens also hosts Carols by Candlelight the same day (book in advance). If you’re traveling with children, go and meet Santa at the V&A Waterfront.

For a unique glimpse of Cape culture, catch the Cape Town Minstrel Carnival (the Tweede Nuwe Jaar Parade) on January 2 at the city’s main public square, Grand Parade. Minstrel performers in colorful costumes dance, sing, and play authentic ghoema (small drums). Otherwise, visit in March for the Cape Town Carnival complete with stunning floats, elaborate costumes, and dancing.

Visitors should also expect crowds and higher accommodation prices – sometimes as much as 80% compared with the low season – especially the local school holidays which typically fall between mid-December and mid-January. If you plan on visiting around Christmas and New Year, plan to book a couple of months in advance.

Autumn (March-May) and spring (September-November) are the best time for hiking and winery visits

The shoulder seasons are beautiful in Cape Town. If you want warm weather with fewer crowds, this is the time to go. March, April and November, in particular, often have warm, sunny days, and little rain, suitable for swimming.

You’re much more likely to have attractions to yourself and, with temperatures hovering around the 77°F (25°C), this is the perfect time for exploring some of Cape Town’s hiking trails. Hiking is easier now than in the summer heat, and clear skies make for marvelous city views. Either walk up the iconic Table Mountain or Lion’s Head, or trek through the lesser-known Silvermine Nature Reserve.

This is also a lovely time to visit the nearby Cape Winelands. The wine estates in Stellenbosch, Franschhoek and Paarl look gorgeous with colorful autumn leaves or spring flowers. They are also quieter than in the summer, allowing for a more relaxed experience.

Easter usually falls in March or April and there are often several Easter-themed events in Cape Town, including egg hunts and lunches at wine estates and restaurants. If you’re lucky enough to visit at this time, try pickled fish, this classic Cape Malay dish is a favorite at Easter.

June to November is the best time to visit Cape Town for lower prices

Winter brings cooler temperatures, rain and wind. This means fewer crowds and more affordable accommodation. It’s perfect for budget travelers.

During this time it’s good to focus on some of Cape Town’s indoor activities, especially on rainy days. There are several excellent museums and galleries in town, including the District Six Museum, dedicated to preserving the memories and history of the vibrant, multi-ethnic community that was forcibly displaced during the apartheid era.

Other good options include the Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art, with collections of works of emerging and established artists from across the continent; the Iziko South African Museum which showcases the country’s natural and cultural history like fossils and indigenous artifacts; and the Cape Diamond Museum, which gives visitors a comprehensive overview of South Africa’s diamond mining history. This is also the perfect time of year to try Cape Malay cooking at one of the excellent cooking schools in Bo-Kaap.

Winter is the best time for whale watching

One of the highlights of Cape Town’s winter season is the opportunity to witness the majestic southern right whales as they migrate along the coast. The whale-watching season runs from July to November, with the highest concentration of sightings typically occurring between August and September. While you can sometimes see the whales from the False Bay coast, opt for a boat tour to see the enormous whales up close.

Late summer and early spring are the best time for wildflowers

Wildflowers brighten the parks and reserves around Cape Town in August and September. The weather is mild and sunny, perfect for picnics surrounded by colorful flowers, including purple lupins and orange poppies, dotted with small blooms of meadowfoam.

Kirstenbosch National Botanical Garden comes alive with red, blue, orange and yellow Namaqualand daisies; vygies in many colors; and blue flax which is hidden between the daisies.

If you have more time, head further afield to the West Coast National Park, an hour’s drive from Cape Town. From late August to September, it transforms into a colorful paradise with several species of wildflowers covering the landscape like white rain daisies, purple suurvy and blye sporrie. Wander through the trails surrounded by carpets of colorful flowers and see if you can spot some of the local antelope along the way.