Category: Travel

The most popular of the Riviera Nayarit’s two dozen towns was once a sleepy fishing village. Yet the secret quickly spread among surfing the community – and today Sayulita draws visitors of all stripes. 

Since the village is now a haven for hipster surfers and boho-chic travelers, you’ll struggle to find a spot for a selfie along the much-snapped Calle Delfìnes during the high season. Yet Sayulita is so much more than a single street lined with rainbow-colored papel picado flags.

Its location on a 200-mile stretch of Pacific coastline makes it an ideal base to explore neighboring Riviera Nayarit towns.

Sandy beaches and fresh seafood abound, the waves suit surfers of all levels, and at key times of the year the waters teem with whales stopping by during their yearly migration.  

Hot spots are popular for a reason, and you shouldn’t pass on Sayulita just because other travelers have fallen in love with its bohemian vibe. You’re bound to be bewitched, too.

Sayulita enchants all year long – though you might want to avoid the pricey high season. Roaming Pictures/Shutterstock Roaming Pictures / Shutterstock

When should I go to Sayulita?

The beaches in Mexico boast fabulous temperatures year-round. Still, you might want to avoid traveling to Sayulita during the (relatively) rainy season, which runs from June to October. 

If you have your heart set on catching a glimpse of a humpback whale, you’d be wise to travel between December and April. Yet we’d advise skipping the wildly popular small beach down in peak tourist season: around Christmas, Semana Santa (Holy Week) and August.  

The best time of year to surf in Sayulita is from December to April, when the northern swells bring consistent waves.

How much time should I spend in Sayulita?

If you’re just planning sticking to just Sayulita, three days will allow you to spend some much-deserved time at the beach. But given the destination’s proximity to other towns in the Riviera Nayarit, we recommend at least five.

Begin with a visit to San Pancho, a quieter version of Sayulita that’s just a 15-minute taxi ride north. You can either go on a day trip or stay for a night. 

Ten minutes from here is Lo de Marcos, another coastal town that’s ideal for an afternoon stroll. A 30-minute drive in the opposite direction of Sayulita brings you to the small, pointy peninsula of Punta de Mita, where you can enjoy fresh seafood overlooking the beach or explore the hidden coves of the Islas Marietas.

Is it easy to get in and around Sayulita?

The closest airport to Sayulita is Puerto Vallarta International Airport (PVR). From there, you can reach Sayulita by renting a car – handy for town-hopping – or by taking a taxi or bus. Any of these options will get you there in about 30 minutes.  

Once in Sayulita, you’ll be able to walk almost everywhere. You can also rent a golf cart to drive within the town itself – yet these are rather pricey, and you’re not allowed to take them outside of town.   

Top things to do in Sayulita

If you’re setting up camp in Sayulita for a couple of days, these are the activities you shouldn’t miss.

Even though it’s no longer a secret place, Sayulita remains a favorite of the surfing set. Nik West/Getty Images Nik West/Getty Images

Get into a surf groove

Even though their secret is long out, Sayulita remains a favorite among surfers. A surfing vibe is still very much present, and you can spend hours watching pros catching waves. 

If you’re more a doer than a watcher, you’ll be happy to know that Sayulita washes up waves for all levels. Even if you’ve never tried surfing before, you can take lessons to see how you fare on a surfboard – whether a longboard, short board or paddleboard.

You’ll be spoiled for choice thanks to over a dozen schools in the area. Lunazul Surf School & Shop is a family-run business with over 20 years operating on the main beach. While they do accommodate drop-ins, it’s best to book your spot in advance.

Shop for boho-chic home decor and clothing

Shopping enthusiasts can spend hours browsing the town’s unique offerings. In Sayulita, boho-chic reigns supreme, from flowy blouses to airy dresses and even kimonos.

You’ll also find eclectic pieces to dress your home, like a one-of-a-kind, yarn-painted skull crafted by the Wixarika people at Evoke the Spirit.

Owned by a French couple who fell in love with the town over 15 years ago, Pinche México Te Amo offers a playful selection of tote bags, t-shirts and other items that profess their love of Mexico through witty catchphrases. 

In Sayulita, you’ll find plenty of opportunities to practice yoga and indulge in wellness with inspiring ocean views. Jordan Siemens/Getty Images Jordan Siemens/Getty Images

Join the wellness scene and practice yoga 

Yoga and overall wellness are as intrinsic to Sayulita’s vibe as surfing. Whether you’re looking for a yoga class on the beach or an immersive retreat, you’ll find it in Sayulita. 

Nestled in the jungle overlooking the beach, Haramara Retreat offers intimate and secluded spaces across 12 private acres of tropical jungle. Here, guests can recharge by booking various retreats or enjoy the facilities for a day – including the private beach – with a day pass.

Open to the public, the spa has a roster of 12 massage therapists and technicians trained in deep-tissue, Swedish, reflexology, shiatsu, Chi Nei Tsang and Thai modalities.

Indulge in fresh seafood

The state of Nayarit is famous for its just-caught seafood. While in Sayulita, be sure to try shrimp aguachile (shrimp marinated in lime juice, chili and salt, and served with cucumber and red onion slices), ceviche tostadas and tasty fish tacos. Sí Señor Sayulita and Don Pedro’s both come with a side of magnificent sea views.  

Dance the night away

Speaking of Don Pedro’s: this is also the place to be for Monday night salsa. From October to June, one of Sayulita’s longest-running restaurants hosts salsa classes by the sea (6:30pm for beginners and 7:30pm for advanced dancers), paired with a live salsa band and tasty food.

Spot humpback whales

Every year, humpback whales migrate to warmer waters for the winter, making December to April prime whale-watching season in Sayulita and neighboring Bahía de Banderas. 

Humpback whales aren’t the only large mammals that can be spotted here: gray whales, Bryde’s whales and orcas also make occasional appearances. You can see them from catamarans, fishing boats or biologist-led trips that set off from Sayulita beach.

At Sayulta’s latitude, the sunsets over the Pacific Ocean are epic. Nik West/Getty Images Nik West/Getty Images

My favorite thing to do in Sayulita

I spent about four months in Sayulita and the Riviera Nayarit a few years ago and I could never get over the sunsets: they’re truly something at this latitude of the Pacific.

My favorite way to experience them is without the crowds – which in Sayulita means foregoing the main beach and Playa los Muertos. Head to Playa Norte instead, toward Sayulita Turtle Camp, and find yourself an empty stretch of sand to admire the bright pinks and purples forming in the sky in solitude. 

Each time I return to Sayulita there seem to be more and more tourists – so you might have to walk a bit further up the beach to enjoy the experience on your own. 

How much money do I need for Sayulita?

Sayulita has accommodation options and restaurants to suit all budgets. You won’t find big chain hotels here – so if you’re after luxury, expect the barefoot-chic variety. For dining, casual eateries cater to those on a budget, while beachfront spots welcome those looking to splurge on lobster.

When you visit will impact accommodation prices, with summer being the most affordable time to stay. Just keep in mind summer is also the rainy season.

• Hostel room: $600–1200 MXN (US$30–60) 
• Basic room for two: $1000–3000 MXN (US$50–150) 
• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb) $400–1500 MXN (US$20–75) 
• Public transport ticket: $20 MXN (US$1) 
• Cappuccino / espresso: $80 MXN (US$4) / $60 MXN (US$3)
• Sandwich $60 MXN (US$3)
• Fish tacos $40–60 MXN (US$2–3) per taco
• Dinner for two at a mid-range restaurant $600–1200 MXN (US $30–60)
• Beer/pint at the bar $20 MXN (US$2)

Along Sayulita’s small streets, you’ll find numerous independent shops selling boho-chic clothing and artisanal gifts. Linda Raymond/Getty Images Linda Raymond/Getty Images

Is Sayulita safe for travelers?

Despite its proximity to Sinaloa, with its reputation for narco violence, Nayarit is considered one of the safest destinations in Mexico. 

Travelers can safely enjoy Sayulita and the rest of the Riviera Nayarit if they take standard precautions. If exploring nearby towns, for example, it’s best to avoid driving back late at night.  

Can I drink eat street food and drink the tap water in Sayulita?

Mexican street food is famous the world over – yet it’s always wise to be selective about where you stop for a bite. Ask yourself: does the stall look clean? Is the seafood being offered refrigerated or on ice, or has it been sitting out in the sun? Better to be choosy than ending up with a stomach bug on your trip.

As in the rest of the country, the tap water in Sayulita isn’t drinkable. Stick to bottled water and keep plenty at your hotel or accommodation for drinking at night, when shops are closed.

Though Budapest is a superstar city on most travelers’ bucket lists, Hungary has many other attractions worth exploring, including world-famous wine regions, lovely lakes, UNESCO-listed sights and historic towns.

Traveling around the country is easy and affordable, and Hungary is also a manageable size, with most inland journeys from Budapest taking about a couple of hours. Trains take you pretty much anywhere; buses take care of the rest, while sailing up the Danube Bend or cycling are fun ways to get around. Driving is only necessary if you’re planning to see the country’s remote corners. If you want to travel around extensively, consider a Hungary pass, which provides unlimited public transport within the country. 

Without much further ado, here are the top 10 places to visit that capture the essence of my home country.

1. Budapest

Best for historic thermal spas, scenic beauty and nightlife

No trip to Hungary would be complete without exploring its gorgeous capital, which is also most visitors’ entry point to the country. Divided by the majestic Danube River, Budapest offers two distinct experiences: Buda is the greener and more tranquil side with historic sights like the Royal Palace, Matthias Church, Gellért Baths and Fishermen’s Bastion and great hikes through the Buda Hills. While Pest is more lively, offering equally splendid attractions such as the Parliament, St Stephen’s Basilica or City Park, alongside unique ruin pubs, historic coffee houses and rooftop bars. Margaret Island, with its medieval ruins, a rose garden and Japanese garden is a popular recreational spot with locals, while Óbuda maintains its village-like atmosphere and is home to the Roman ruins of Aquincum. 

Planning tip: Though its name suggests it’s ‘just’ a park, Budapest’s City Park has enough heavyweight sights to fill at least half or even a full day, including Széchenyi Baths, Vajdahunyad Castle, the enormous Budapest Zoo and excellent museums like the House of Music and the Museum of Fine Arts.

The Danube Bend offers must-see scenery north of Budapest. Shutterstock feelthedrone / Shutterstock

2. The Danube Bend

Best for hikes and views

Located just north of Budapest, the Danube Bend is a scenic section of the Danube that winds its way through wooded hills and historic towns. Popular stops include artsy Szentendre, known for its galleries, museums and churches; Esztergom home to Hungary’s largest church; and historic Visegrád, home to one of the most prominent and photographed spots in the Danube Bend, the Citadel. The area offers opportunities for hiking, river cruises and exploring Hungary’s natural landscapes, and its close proximity to Budapest makes it a convenient day trip destination.

Local tip: Starting from Dömös near Visegrád, you can hike up in a few hours to the Prédikálószék lookout tower that provides the most dazzling view of the Danube Bend.

3. Gödöllő

Best for royal history

Easily accessible from Budapest on the H8 HÉV suburban train, Gödöllő is another excellent day trip destination. Its main drawcard is the Gödöllő Royal Palace, Hungary’s largest Baroque manor house and the former favorite summer residence of the country’s Queen Elizabeth (Sisi). Visitors can explore the palace’s 34 beautifully restored rooms and gardens, offering a glimpse into royal life, while the surrounding town offers a quieter and more relaxed alternative to Budapest, giving visitors a glimpse into Hungarian life outside of the buzzy capital.

4. Eger

Best for trying Hungary’s revered ‘Bull’s Blood’ wine

Characterized by gorgeous Baroque buildings and a hilltop castle with a heroic history, Eger is a jewelry box of a town with much to see and do. The main attraction is the castle rising above the town, which was where brave Hungarians famously temporarily halted the Ottomans advancing into the country in the 16th century. Though Eger was eventually conquered alongside the rest of Hungary, which is why you can still climb the minaret or soak away in the warm waters of the Turkish Bath. The town is flanked by two of northern Hungary’s most beautiful ranges of hills (Bükk and Mátra) and is the home of amazing wine, most notably the celebrated full-bodied Bull’s Blood.

Local tip: Hop on the ‘Dottika Eger’ mini-train at the main square for the 15-minute ride – or just walk – to the charming Valley of the Beautiful Women, where you can wander from cellar to cellar and sample local wines.

A wine tasting at the Valley of the Beautiful Women is a wonderful way to wander between wine cellars and sample some local favorites. Alizada Studios/Shutterstock Alizada Studios / Shutterstock

5. Bükk National Park

Best for hikes and nature

Eger is a convenient gateway to Bükk National Park, a haven for nature lovers with its diverse birdlife, limestone caves, forested trails and panoramic viewpoints. Popular attractions within the park include Szalajka Valley near Szilvásvárad, where visitors can hike to a waterfall, explore a cave or ride the old-timey narrow-gauge railway. Nearby Lillafüred near Miskolc, centered around a forest-fringed lake, offers boat rides, walking paths and the Renaissance-era Palace Hotel. 

Detour: Between Miskolc and Lillafüred lies the Miskolctapoca Cave Bath, a spa complex set up in a natural cave – though at the time of writing it is temporarily closed due to a fire, so check the website before you go.

6. Hollókő

Best for traditional folk culture

Hollókő, a UNESCO World Heritage site in Northern Hungary, is celebrated for its preserved folk architecture and traditions. Home to the ethnic Palóc people, the Old Village is characterized by cobblestoned streets lined by whitewashed houses with carved wooden porches. Visitors can purchase a Village Walk Ticket from the Küszöb Information Office to gain access to several attractions, including Hollókő Castle, and local wine and cheese samples.

Local tip: Visit in March or April to witness Hungary’s unique Easter traditions and traditional Palóc folk performances in action.  

7. Tokaj-Hegyalja

Best for local wines

Tokaj-Hegyalja – declared a Unesco World Heritage Site in 2002 – is Hungary’s top wine tourism destination. The region is spread over a romantic landscape of cellars, vineyards and slopes at the foothills of the Zemplén Mountains and is made up of 27 villages. The most famous variety produced here is the honey-sweet Aszú, which was called the ’Wine of Kings, King of Wines’ by Louis XV of France and even features in the Hungarian National Anthem. The best place to start exploring the area is Tokaj, a picturesque little town cradled by two rivers with old buildings, nesting storks and vineries galore. The most magical village to visit is Hercegkút, whose wine cellars resemble Hobbit houses.

Planning tip: The Tourinform office (located at Serház utca 1 in Tokaj) offers customized ‘wine bus’ tours that take you on a tasting session at three wineries – minimum two people, book about a week in advance. 

Lake Balaton is the perfect Hungarian summer escape. Krisztian Tefner/Shutterstock Krisztian Tefner / Shutterstock

8. Lake Balaton & Hévíz

Best for lakeside wellness retreats

Central Europe’s biggest lake, or the ‘Hungarian sea’, is where the Magyars (Hungarians) flock to spend their summer holidays. During the dog days, the beaches are packed with people swimming, playing, SUPing (stand-up paddleboarding) and boating. In winter when the lake freezes over it turns into a huge ice-skating rink. The shoreline is dotted with picture-perfect marinas, tiny villages and lovely vineyards. The water on the southern shore is shallower, perfect for family fun, while the northern shore is where the best wineries and hikes are. Balatonfüred, the oldest resort on the lake, and Tihany, which hosts the fragrant Tihany Lavender Festival in early July, are popular spots with most travelers. The village of Keszthely is good for families, while Siófok is great for a party or night out.

Detour: Nearby Hévíz is home to the world’s largest swimmable thermal lake. The water temperature there averages 91°F (33°C) and never drops be­low 71°F (22°C), even in winter, surrounded by fir trees.

9. The Great Plain

Best for rural traditions and small town charm

The Great Plain (Nagyalföld) spans nearly half of Hungary, a region of sweeping grasslands and rural towns. At its heart lies Hortobágy National Park, showcasing traditional Hungarian shepherding culture and horse shows. Here, you can visit authentic shepherd huts or walk across the nine-arched bridge, Hungary’s longest stone bridge. Bugac in the Kiskunság National Park, is another great spot where you can see traditional Hungarian herding culture in action. The Bugac Pustza features walking trails and a museum on shepherding.

The region is also home to fabulous cities that are far from ‘plain.’ Dynamic Debrecen is Hungary’s second-largest city with a rich history and culture, a great launchpad for exploring Hortobágy National Park. Only an hour away from Budapest lies cute Kecskemét, famous for its fiery apricot pálinka (fruit brandy) and Art Nouveau town center. Another hour away, you find lovely Szeged, a culture-filled city on the Tisza River famous for its food like paprika spice, Pick salami and must-try fish soup.

10. Pécs

Best for a city break

The most recommended city break in Hungary is lively Pécs for its cool university-town vibe, mild climate and interesting museums. Pécs is blessed with rarities like the Ottoman-built Mosque of Pasha Qasim, the largest Ottoman structure still standing in Hungary, and a nearby landmark, a Roman cemetery dating from the 4th century in the Early Christian Necropolis. The town’s true highlight is the Zsolnay Cultural Quarter, a museum complex on the grounds of the original world-famous 1853 Zsolnay porcelain factory. A prominent Hungarian wine-making village, Villány is nearby, known for its robust reds.

The city of San Sebastián in northern Spain has more incredible food and drink experiences than some entire countries, packed into a picturesque jumble of streets, surrounded by gorgeous mountains and easily accessible beaches. 

The top item on most visitors’ to-do lists is, quite rightly, downing a plethora of pintxos (small bites) and fizzy txakoli wine in San Sebastián’s bars and cafes, or snagging reservations at some of the world’s most famous restaurants. But that’s just the beginning.

Even if you’re not just here to eat your way through your bucket list, San Sebastián has a lot more going for it than just food. This region has an identity that’s all its own – the Basque Country is home to some of Europe’s oldest traditions, and it boasts its own language, with mysterious and ancient origins. If you visit during a local festival, you’ll see everything from Basque dancing to bertsolari poets performing improvised songs – a tradition dating back centuries.

San Sebastián’s stunning Belle Époque architecture is a byproduct of the city’s regal history, while its position on the Cantabrian coast in the foothills of the Pyrenees means that visitors can enjoy a packed roster of outdoor activities, especially if you want to take some day trips into the Basque hinterland. 

The bottom line? Stay in San Sebastián for as long as you can! Here are the top things to do in San Sebastián to soak up the city’s rich Basque culture, fine food and gorgeous surroundings.

Curving La Concha beach is San Sebastián’s most famous landmark. Marc Bruxelle/Shutterstock Marc Bruxelle / Shutterstock

1. Sunbathe on the famous La Concha beach

Hailed as one of Europe’s best beaches, La Concha’s wow factor is as much about its surroundings as the sand. Nearly a mile long, this city beach looks out onto a giant green mountain, the town’s pretty-as-a-postcard port, and the imposing island of Santa Clara, with its striking white lighthouse. The water is shallow and the waves are gentle, with bars and the city’s bright lights right up the steps from the sand – it’s a perfect playa specimen.

2. Learn the art of pintxo hopping

San Sebastián locals have their own way of eating – before lunch or dinner, people routinely stop for a snack and a drink with friends. These snacks are called pintxos, and they line nearly every bartop in the city. Just pop in, order a drink, grab a bite off the bar, and pay for everything when you’re done. This is one of the world’s most sociable and entertaining dining rituals, born right in the old town of San Sebastián.

Local Tip: Some bars are famous for a signature pintxo; try this list of pintxos spots you won’t want to miss.

San Sebastián’s picturesque bay is bookendedd at Mount Urgull. Boris Stroujko/Shutterstock Boris Stroujko / Shutterstock

3. Explore the hidden cemeteries and cafes of Monte Urgull

The green mountain casting a shadow over the old town of San Sebastián is Monte Urgull – a maze of treasures waiting to be discovered. Well-traversed by locals clocking up their daily steps or looking for a spot for a romantic rendezvous, the headland is crisscrossed by trails. It may be tempting to try to follow the map, but the easiest approach is to just start walking. You’ll stumble across all sorts of charming corners, from an ammunition depot reinvented as a bar to the cemetery commemorating the 1813 Siege of San Sebastián. Go all the way to the feet of the hilltop statue of Jesus and you’ll find a free museum with displays on the history of the city.

4. Stroll the beaches all the way to the Peine del Viento

Along with drinking beers at a sidewalk café, strolling ranks as one of San Sebastián’s favorite pastimes, and the town has the perfect promenade for a morning or afternoon wander. Start in the old town and head west along the beachside balustrade for a two-mile walk that should take around 40 minutes if you stop to ooh and aah at the views of Isla de Santa Clara and the handsome villas that line the water. The walk ends at Peine del Viento, a trio of massive sculptures by Eduardo Chillida. Some 30 tons of oxidized steel rise from the waterside rocks, suspended over the ocean spray.

Local Tip: Come at high tide, when the water’s force causes blowholes along the shore to expel powerful blasts of vapor, making for some surprises (and incredible photos).

With a wetsuit, Playa de la Zurriola becomes a surfing playground. Shutterstock YuryKara / Shutterstock

5. Surf the Basque Coast at Playa de la Zurriola

The Basque coast is known as one of Europe’s top surfing spots, famous for the left-hand break at Mundaka – one of the world’s best waves. While Playa de la Zurriola may not be the peak spot for swell on the coast, it is the easiest surf beach to access. Grab a board and a wetsuit (essential outside of the warm summer months of July and August) and catch a wave. Even if you don’t, the views of the city and Mount Ulia from the water are more than enough reward for the effort.

Planning Tip: There are multiple spots for renting boards and taking lessons right on the beach, all offering a similarly high standard of service.

6. Run from the rain at La Perla Spa

If you wake up to rain on your trip, make tracks for the La Perla spa. Located right on La Concha beach, this popular thalassotherapy center has gorgeous views and a large spa circuit with enough pools, jets, and activities to extend the unwinding over several hours. Do as the locals and take a cold plunge in the sea after your sauna – there’s a door in the main swimming pool room that’s always kept open just for this purpose.

Planning Tip: Set aside half a day so you have enough time to relax and enjoy the entire spa experience. Reserve a spot ahead during the busy summer months.

The trails on Monte Ulia offer some of the best coastal views around San Sebastián. Unai Huizi/Shutterstock Shutterstock / Unai Huizi Photography

7. Hike the stunning trails of Mount Ulia  

The top activity for nature lovers in San Sebastián is hiking along the coast of Monte Ulia, the headland northeast of Playa de la Zurriola. After a slightly steep ascent from the eastern edge of Gros, the going levels out and suddenly all you can see are wild waves crashing against stunning cliffs, with the sound of the sea and seagulls drowning out the city noise. The path is easy to follow, with white-and-red GR-121 markers to keep you on track.

Detour: If you hike to the village of Pasaia, you can visit the Albaola Maritime Culture Factory, a shipbuilding museum, and take a cute little ferry boat to Victor Hugo’s old summer home.

8. Ride a retro roller coaster on Monte Igeldo

An amusement park might sound like a day out for kids, but the Monte Igeldo amusement park genuinely offers fun for every generation. For starters, the park is reached via a 100-year-old cable car – its rickety vibes will definitely get your heart pumping, as will the unparalleled views of the bay and city. Don’t miss the vintage Montaña Suiza roller coaster, a century-old wooden affair that hangs off the edge of a cliff for guaranteed adrenaline.

Planning Tip: Outside of summer, be sure to check opening hours; in winter, the attractions only operate at weekends in the winter and timings are dependent on the weather.

Sitting in the bay off San Sebastián, Isla de Santa Clara calls out to be explored. Shutterstock PhotoFires / Shutterstock

9. Swim, ride or float to Isla de Santa Clara

As well as being incredibly picturesque, the island in the middle of La Concha Bay has a fascinating history as a military outpost. Isla de Santa Clara is covered in zigzagging trails terminating at a photogenic lighthouse. A ferry service (more frequent in summer) is the easiest way to reach the island, but you can also get here by stand-up paddleboard, or even swim out at low tide. The island hosts regular art installations and in summer, the small bar is a great escape when La Concha gets too crowded.

Planning Tip: Motoras de la Isla offers direct ferry transfers to the island, or a longer ride that circles the bay for bonus views en route.

10. Taste the world-famous Basque cheesecake

Welcome to the hometown of what could very well be the most widely traveled dessert of all time. You can now find Basque-style burnt cheesecake on menus everywhere from the Philippines to America’s Cheesecake Factory, and no wonder – the perfect flavors and burnished bronze finish make this creamy wonder irresistible. Head to famous La Viña to try the original incarnation.

The Victoria Eugenia Theater is one of San Sebastián’s most eye-catching buildings. Francesco Bonino/Shutterstock Shutterstock /

11. Catch a show at the Victoria Eugenia Theater

Lovely sandstone Belle Époque buildings line the river in San Sebastián, including the elegant Victoria Eugenia Theater. This cultural powerhouse is more than 100 years old but still draws full houses of music, dance and theater lovers. Get tickets for whatever’s on – the programming is a flawless mix of contemporary music, dance performances, and theater shows of very high quality. Get a seat in the balconies, or palcos, for the full period experience.

Planning Tip: Check the schedule of shows and book well in advance as the theater’s shows are extremely popular and often sell out.

12. Make a pilgrimage to Eduardo Chillida’s farmhouse

If the Peine del Viento has whet your appetite for Eduardo Chillida’s larger-than-life sculptures, hop on the bus to the outskirts of town to visit the sculptor’s family home at Chillida Leku. This historic Basque farmhouse has been converted into a breathtaking museum, housing sculptures that can reach a whopping 30ft in height and 18 tons in weight. Its indoor-outdoor display spaces allow works such as In Praise of Iron III to breathe among rolling green hills. 

Planning Tip: Bus BU05 to Chillida Leku runs regularly from Calle Okendo.

From fine wines to cocktails, San Sebastián is celebrated for its drinks as well as its food. Rafa Elias/Getty Images Rafa Elias/Getty Images

13. Sample the local gin and tonic

Did the Spanish invent the gin and tonic? Of course not. Did they perfect it? Possibly. You can be the judge in San Sebastián, where the culinary attention to detail extends to cocktails. Spanish gin tonica is a sight to behold, served in a fishbowl glass and almost unrecognizable compared to its counterparts in other countries. Amongst other things, it’s bigger, more balanced, and often made with premium tonic and ice.

Local Tip: For one of the city’s best gin and tonics, gussied up with botanicals and dry ice, head to La Gintonería Donostiarra. They have nearly 150 gins to choose from.

14. Soak up local history at San Telmo

For culture vultures, there is one place to go to get a roundup of Basque Country’s history with a distinctly artistic bent: San Telmo Museum. Built in the 16th century, the building was once a Dominican convent and now houses exhibits exploring Basque art and culture. The murals by local artist José María Sert are reason enough to visit, with their stylized depictions of key scenes from Basque history.

Rio de Janeiro is a huge and chaotic city, full of music, dancing, delicious food, captivating smells, incredible landscapes, and all of the marvels and mess that come with it. 

It’s not, however, a place where you can easily fight against the current, and the happiest Cariocas – residents of Rio – have learned that you shouldn’t even try. 

Cariocas are free-flowing, open-minded, friendly people who let things happen in their own time, and taking up their lifestyle is the best way to make your trip to Rio de Janeiro a success. 

Here are some tips from a local about how to be a Carioca for your upcoming Rio de Janeiro adventure. 

1. Plan one thing each day 

Whenever I meet anyone newly arrived in Rio, I always give them this piece of advice. Plan to do one thing today, and let the rest happen. Rio isn’t a place where over-planning works out, but it is a place where magic happens if you let things go the way they do. 

The best way to be a Carioca is to walk out onto the street, smile at the beauty in the world, do something that brings you joy, and talk to people along the way. You’re sure to find out about some cool event, wander into an epic shop, get invited to the opening of an exhibition or simply make new friends to share a beer with. 

Which takes me to my next suggestion… 

2. Don’t shy away from making friends in Rio

Perhaps the most surprising thing about Rio is how absurdly nice people are. Cariocas love to converse (with you, with your kids, your dogs, with anyone that passes in the street or shares an elevator ride). 

They’ll happily offer their suggestions and tell you about their favorite places to go and things to do (it’s not a ploy to get anything from you). Cariocas are just really friendly people who love to gab. 

Always say “hello,” engage in small talk and make new friends – it will open up doors for you to places you didn’t even know existed. You might even get invited along and, as long as you feel good about it, feel free to say “yes” to an invitation.

Just remember that invitations made for another day (for example: “Let’s get together for a drink sometime!”) are often empty promises. Not because Cariocas are lying or impolite, but simply because they aren’t really ones to make plans for the future. 

3. Stay awhile in the Marvelous City

You can visit Rio in a day if you’d like – there are tour companies like Xplora Rio that offer full-day, whirlwind trips to all of the city’s major sights for those on 24-hour layovers. 

However, if you want to feel what it’s really like to be a Carioca, unpack your bags and stay awhile. Rio isn’t just a place, it’s a lifestyle – and being a Carioca doesn’t happen in a day. 

You need to relax into the rhythm to really understand what the city is all about and, honestly, there is so much to do and see that it’s basically impossible to ever get bored. Plan for a day, three days, five days or five weeks – just remember that your love affair with the Marvelous City will only deepen the longer you stay. 

4. When you head out, take these things

Always bring a few things with you to make sure you’re ready for any situation. Chuck a canga (sarong) in your bag, along with a bathing suit. Temperatures can hit over 40℃ (104℉) in the city and you never know when you might need to swim to cool off, or something to sit on for an impromptu picnic. 

Make sure you have a water bottle and sunscreen because, let’s be fair, it’s hot. Have your bank card (widely accepted) and a bit of cash (but not too much) on hand in case you have trouble with your cards. 

Add a telephone and charger – you might be out longer than you think – and maybe a book or notebook if that’s your thing. Leave anything that you’re worried about losing at home. 

5. Leave your valuables at home 

When you’re traveling around Rio, really, leave your valuables at home. Take your jewelry off, your watches, your nice earrings…. Take off that necklace that your grandma gave you. Trust me on this one: try not to show your wealth in Rio.

If you have enough money to leave your home country and travel to Brazil, you are wealthy in comparison to most of the population here. If you are carrying around something of value, like a beautiful new camera, perhaps put it in an old cloth bag.

Stop inside a shop if you’re going to use your phone. Don’t put anything in your back pocket. Don’t hang your bags on the back of a chair at a restaurant. 

Unfortunately, you’re just making yourself a target wearing that fancy watch and designer shoes. Leave the bling at home.

In fact, leave everything at home unless you really need it (although everything you need for an enjoyable time in Rio you can get on the street.) Make your life simpler and easier, with more space to enjoy what Rio has to offer, by traveling light. 

Each year, millions of straw-colored fruit bats descend on Kasanka National Park for a few months, and scientists are working to understand their mysterious journey

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In the young, tiny nation, inventive chefs are putting their own twists on classic regional dishes, using river trout, berries and other locally sourced delicacies to create some of the hautest cuisine around

Since 1988, the National Trust for Historic Preservation has been naming America’s most endangered historic places, attracting much-needed awareness and funding

California offers lovely beaches, forests, deserts, mountains and more!

You may be familiar with Coney dogs and Detroit-style pizza. Yet those standbys are just the beginning of Detroit’s dining scene, which continues to grow and evolve at a breakneck rate. 

The incredible agricultural productivity and diversity of Michigan pushes chefs in the state’s biggest city to get creative – especially through seasonal menus that change all the time. Other factors, too, combine to make the city’s food scene exciting. The city is home to historic Eastern Market, the nation’s largest outdoor farmers market, and hot spot for food trucks. A huge urban-farm network, one of the most extensive in the USA, ensures that produce is as local as it gets. And a growing movement of independent Black-led grocers, including the Detroit People’s Food Co-Op and Neighborhood Grocery, are helping to bring top-notch food to every community in the city.

Here’s just a small taste of what the Motor City has to offer right now.

1. Behold the Big Baby burger at Food Exchange

Corned beef has always been huge in Detroit. And over the years, the staple has inspired unique creations – like the corned beef egg rolls found at Asian Cornedbeef and What’s The Dill’s Yum Yum pickle sandwich. Yet no dish is bolder and beefier than the corned beef burger. For 25 years, it’s been a staple at Food Exchange on the city’s east side, in the form of the Big Baby, a work of love created by the restaurant’s owner, the late Bruce Harvey. On an onion roll, you’ll find a massive hand-shaped patty grilled to perfection and topped with corned beef, two melted cheeses (Swiss and American) plus all the classic burger fixings. 

How to get it: The burger takes about 25 minutes to cook, and seating is limited (it’s a takeout-style place). Depending on your hunger level, consider calling ahead or ordering online. 

Don’t miss Baobab Fare’s kuku, pan-fried chicken served in a mustard sauce with plantains, beans and rice. Baobab Fare Baobab Fare

2. Crave the kuku at Baobab Fare 

Detroit is home to a burgeoning African food scene, with acclaimed restaurants like Maty’s, Saffron De Twah and Yum Village joining the mix over the past decade. Baobab Fare owners Hamissi Mamba and Nadia Nijimbere – partners in hospitality and in life – came to Detroit as refugees before growing their pop-up into a nationally acclaimed brick-and-mortar serving their native Burundian cuisine in the New Center district. An excellent entry point is the kuku: pan-fried chicken served in a delightfully tangy mustard sauce with soft plantains, earthy yellow beans, and your choice of their spiced rice pilau or coconut rice.

How to get it: Walk on in and wait to be seated. Paid street parking is available along Woodward Ave and West Grand Blvd. It’s also near a bus and Q Line stop. 

The sumptuous mole poblano at El Barzon takes days to prepare. Jack Thomas for Lonely Planet Jack Thomas for Lonely Planet

3. Savor the mole at El Barzon

James Beard–honored chef Norberto Garita made his name in Italian kitchens before opening his own restaurant in Southwest Detroit, home to Mexicantown and a long-active Mexican-food scene. At El Barzon, classic Italian dishes Garita has perfected over the years share the menu with sumptuous dishes from his hometown of Puebla, Mexico (arguably Mexico’s culinary capital). Garita’s mole poblano – a family recipe – is a soulful sauce that blends chile seco, tomatillo, anise, bread, banana and chocolate, and which takes days to prepare. Slather it onto enchiladas, pavo (turkey) or pollo (chicken).

How to get it: Reservations are recommended. On-site parking is available through the alley off of Junction. Dress nicely, and have a good answer ready for when your host asks, “What occasion are you celebrating today?”

4. Let Michigan mushroom dumplings blow your mind at Marrow

Marrow is both a restaurant and a butcher shop in the city’s West Village neighborhood. Helmed by 2019 Top Chef finalist Sarah Welch, the James Beard–nominated restaurant aims to operate sustainably, offering seasonal dishes made with Michigan produce and meat the company butchers itself. There’s one dish that will always remain on the menu, however, due to its year-round seasonality: the mushroom dumplings, made with the maitake that can be found growing in forests around Michigan year-round. The delicate dumplings arrived served on a bed of corn butter, and topped with Welch’s signature spicy, savory, sensational Szechuan sauce.  

How to get it: The dumplings are available à la carte, and may need to be ordered separately if you’re considering the five-course tasting menu. It’s a good idea to reserve ahead online. Free street parking is available along Kercheval or down one of the side streets. 

The team at Alpino specializes in elevated takes on such classics as schnitzel, raclette and fondue. Jess Nosal, via Alpino Jess Nosal, via Alpino

5. Celebrate the cuisine of the mountains at Alpino

A James Beard semifinalist for Best New Restaurant in 2024, Corktown’s Alpino explores the cuisine of what it calls “the backbone of Europe.” With meticulously sourced ingredients, the team here cultivates elevated interpretations of regional dishes found in the Alpine countries of Austria, France, Germany, Italy and Switzerland. Though staples like schnitzel, raclette and fondue remain a constant, a recent addition from Chef Colin Campbell is the pizzoccheri, a hearty and sage-forward pasta dish from Northern Italy. House-made buckwheat pasta, Savoy cabbage and soft potatoes are coated in garlic and sage butter, with soft chunks of nutty Fontina cheese to complete the effect. 

How to get it: Reservations are a requirement, and may need to be made in advance to avoid being waitlisted. On-site parking is available. 

In the Detroit style, the pizza at Michigan & Trumbull has an airy, focaccia-like crust that’s perfectly crispy on the edges. Jack Thomas for Lonely Planet Jack Thomas for Lonely Planet

6. Munch on modern Detroit-style pizza at Michigan & Trumbull 

In the 1940s, Gus Guerrara perfected his pizza recipe – a square pie, with deliciously crunchy crusts and corners – and it soon become famous as his adopted city’s version of the Neapolitan treat. So it’s perhaps ironic that the place serving the best homage to Guerrara’s Detroit-style pizza was founded in Pittsburgh seven years ago – albeit by two Detroit natives, Nathan Peck and Kristen Calverley. In 2020, the two returned to their hometown, bringing Michigan & Trumbull back with them. The pies here have an airy, focaccia-like crust that’s perfectly crispy on the edges, complemented by innovative topping builds like the Long Drive Home (a rich combination of vodka sauce, mozzarella, Parmesan, sausage and banana peppers). 

How to get it: Walk in, and ask for a table. While this full-service eatery doesn’t have a liquor license, you’re welcome to bring your own drinks. On site-parking is available in the lot off of Lincoln St.

The döner kebab at Balkan House is a savory blend of roasted meats, vegetables and a garlicky, tangy sauce. Jack Thomas for Lonely Planet Jack Thomas for Lonely Planet

7. Devour a Berlin-style Turkish sandwich with Detroit flair at Balkan House

Michigan’s most diverse municipality, Hamtramck is a city of only about 2 square miles almost entirely within the city limits of Detroit. The dense city is home to a flourishing food scene, with a wide assortment of restaurants and bakeries – many Middle Eastern and Eastern European – as well as stylish bars, shops and live venues. An intriguing, semi-recent addition is the Bosnian restaurant Balkan House, credited with bringing the German-style Turkish döner kebab to the Detroit area. The signature sandwich is a mouthwatering mix of vertical-rotisserie lamb, beef, crunchy vegetables and a garlicky yogurt-based döner sauce stuffed in lepinja (Balkan flatbread).

How to get it: Head over to the stand at the back and ask for a table; or get an order to go. Free street parking is available on Caniff. 

8. Take on the day with salmon patties at The Clique 

Sometimes, the best things to eat right now have been around for years. The Clique, a classic diner on the ground level of the Jefferson Avenue Rivertown Inn & Suites, knows how to do breakfast: it’s been a go-to for Detroiters since 1968. Only open for breakfast and lunch, it’s home to one of the most heartfelt and delicious breakfasts in the city: two flattop-grilled crispy salmon patties, served with eggs your way and your choice of toast or pancakes. 

How to get it: The Clique is a walk-in, full-service type of restaurant, though carry-out is also an option. The restaurant is cash only, so be sure to have enough on hand to leave a decent tip. Parking is available in the hotel lot. 

A remarkable culinary feat, Chartreuse’s twice-cooked egg is first poached, then deep fried. Chartreuse Chartreuse

9. Start with the twice-cooked egg at Chartreuse

Chartreuse sits at the ground level of the historic Park Shelton building, across from the Detroit Institute of Arts. It’s one of several acclaimed eateries owned by the James Beard–recognized duo of local restaurateur Sandy Levine and executive chef Doug Hewett. Chartreuse’s menu of shareable, farm-to-table dishes changes frequently with the seasons – though one constant is a take on a frisée salad, which stars an egg cooked two different ways. The egg is first poached, then lightly coated in panko breadcrumbs and deep fried to a light golden hue. The runny yolk blends marvelously with the shallot vinaigrette, coating the crispy Brussels sprouts, shredded Locatelli cheese and greens (frisée and arugula) from Werp Farms in northern Michigan. 

How to get it: Make a reservation. You’ll have to put your credit card on file – understanding that you may be charged $25 per person for a no-show or a cancellation less than 2 days in advance. Street parking and a structure are available; it’s also located near Q Line and bus stops. 

10. For dessert, order a highbrow s’more at Leña

In Detroit’s Brush Park, Leña is a new, hot and happening neighborhood restaurant with a wood-fire grill. It serves seasonal Spanish-inspired small plates with a made-in-Michigan spirit, prepared with ingredients that are often grown or procured within Detroit’s borders. The dessert program, headed by James Beard–recognized Lena Sareini, turns out inventive and pleasing inventions like the Algunas Mas (Spanish for “some more”), a sweet and smoky torched marshmallow topped with chocolate sorbet, cinnamon sugar tuile, whipped cream and crushed almonds. 

How to get it: Though walk-ins are sometimes possible, reservations are recommended. Your best bet for parking is the 440 Alfred lot, which can be validated inside, as most of the surrounding street parking is reserved for residents come nighttime.