In this series, our Lonely Planet locals share the restaurant and bar recommendations they tell friends coming to town about. This week, Anna Richards, a Lyon-based writer, shares the five places she encourages anyone visiting Lyon to try.
Lyon’s reputation as France’s foodie capital may be founded on a gout-inducing tradition of bouchons serving hearty plates of offal, but these days its dining scene is as varied as its patchwork quilt of quarters (neighborhoods).
Best of all for anyone who’s experienced dry, overpriced poulet frites from tourist traps by the Eiffel Tower, eating well in Lyon is surprisingly affordable.
Why should I go? You’re actively encouraged to mix your drinks.
What’s the vibe? A chemistry lab in a Mediterranean tapas bar. It works.
What should I order? The Tapas list changes constantly, but there are always plenty of cheese-based dishes to pair with your concoctions. Generous portions of patatas bravas (spicy potatoes) are a mainstay.
What about drinks? This is the fun part: the wines are on tap, and you get to blend different combinations. Simple tasting notes like ‘strawberry’ and ‘peach’ help guide your choices, as do the knowledgeable bartenders.
Where should I go after? It’s reliably lively until closing time. After that, head to a peniche on the banks of the Rhône. Le Sirius stays open until 3am.
Why should I go? Quintessential French fine dining without a gold card price tag.
What’s the vibe? Understated chic, the timeless trench coat of Lyon’s gastronomic scene.
What should I order? The set menu is three/four courses each with a choice of two dishes, punctuated by amuse-bouches, sorbets and inter-course appetizers, amounting to eight + courses. Advance booking is essential; state dietary requirements (even vegetarian) when you book.
What about drinks? There’s an impressive range of pre-dinner cocktails to whet your palate. The extensive wine menu has numerous options from neighboring wine regions Beaujolais and the Rhône Valley.
Where should I go after? If you’re not too full, shoebox-sized Les Valseuses is a 10-minute (uphill) walk. This dimly-lit bar hosts intimate concerts, has cheap beer and one of the best rum selections in the city.
Why should I go? ‘Discover’ the next big thing. Budding chefs try out here before opening their own restaurants.
What’s the vibe? East London covered market.
What should I order? Whatever you choose, don’t rush it. There are between five and 10 semi-permanent eateries; cuisines range from South Indian to Ukrainian.
What about drinks? They’re not cheap by Lyon’s standards, but the range of draught beers is reliably good.
Where should I go after? It’s a 20-minute walk to La Guillotière which is much livelier after-hours. Le Bouillon Paradis has rock-bottom prices and live music.
Why should I go? Experience France’s vegan revolution.
What’s the vibe? Authentic French pâtisserie/boulangerie, just without the animal products.
What should I order? Impossibly buttery pain au chocolat, and take-away tiramisu.
What about drinks? The coffee is excellent and inexpensive.
Where should I go after? On a street-art tour of Croix-Rousse, the most colorful quartier. Don’t miss the giant fresco Le Mur des Canuts (in homage to Lyon’s silk-weaving history), and vibrantly painted staircases.
Why should I go? Ditching the supermarket in favor of outdoor markets has always been fashionable in France.
What’s the vibe? A game of Sardines with haggling and sharp elbows.
What should I order? As much cheese as you can carry (try local specialties Saint-Félicien and Arôme de Lyon). Save room for Lyon’s iconic pink praline brioche, sold at most bake stands.
What about drinks? Grab a bottle of wine and join the locals perched on the riverbank wall.
Where should I go after? Cross the river and zigzag uphill (or take the funicular) to Fourvière, Lyon’s hilltop basilica, for the best city views.
Anna first discovered Lyon as a student in 2013, when she consumed more than her fair share of Côtes du Rhône. Far from being nightmare-inducing, the local cheeses were the stuff of dreams, and in 2021, she moved to Lyon from Cornwall, swapping pasties for pastis.
Just back from: driving the Route Napoléon in France
North Carolina is a land of contrasts, ranging from miles and miles of coastal bliss to the rolling hills of central Piedmont to the towering peaks of the Blue Ridge and Great Smoky Mountains at its western border – including 6,684ft Mt Mitchell, the tallest peak in the eastern US.
Because of the topographical variations, temperatures can vary on the same day by 20°F or more from border to coast. As you can imagine, there are seasonal and regional differences to consider when planning a trip. So when should you go?
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The most popular time is summer, when crowds come from far and wide to stake their umbrellas at the beach and stay for a week (or more). The warmer months are also a popular time to hike, camp, swim and fish in the mountains. Autumn leaf-peeping around Asheville and along the Blue Ridge Parkway also draws crowds – and needs advance planning.
But the off-season has its perks too, including snow-driven fun in the winter (yes, it snows in North Carolina!) and spectacular spring flora along hiking trails and scenic drives.
The lively tri-city region of Raleigh, Durham and Chapel Hill offers year-round arts, entertainment and sports. And any time of year, hidden corners exist to explore, whether it’s small mountain towns, waterfall-laced hiking trails, quiet coves or the best BBQ joints.
The best time to hit the beach is in high season, between June and August
The height of summer is beach time, and with 322 miles of ocean shoreline reaching from the Outer Banks in the north to the South Carolina border in the south (and 12,000 miles of estuarine coastline along the way), North Carolina has plenty of beaches to choose from. The Outer Banks is the primo destination, with fun attractions, festivals and restaurants open only during the high season.
A popular activity is to rent a beach house – many have a vast number of bedrooms, ideal for multigenerational families or groups of friends. They’re most expensive in summer, and most are booked up to a year in advance, so you may lose out if you don’t plan ahead.
Note: hurricane season hits June through November, with August, September and October being the most active months. You should be fine if you pay attention to weather forecasts.
Summer is also a great time to camp, fish or hike in the Great Smoky Mountains or the Blue Ridge. Road trippers can take a scenic drive on the Blue Ridge Parkway or along some of the state’s country and mountain roads, dotted with small towns to stop and explore.
Take a scenic drive during shoulder season, from September to November and April to May
Temperatures throughout the state begin to drop at the end of October and don’t warm up again until April into May. In early fall, the beaches are still warm and most restaurants and attractions remain open, but the crowds have gone and accommodations are less expensive.
Late spring is a good beach option too, with warm weather, fewer crowds and less expensive rates, though the water remains chilly.
Fall is leaf-peeping season in the mountains, drawing crowds to Asheville and around. This is a fantastic time for camping, cycling or hiking in North Carolina’s wild areas, especially Great Smoky Mountains National Park. Wine and beer festivals are also in full swing in autumn.
The eastern part of the state offers kayaking, canoeing and stand-up paddleboarding in creeks, rivers, and swamps. Spring in the mountains can be chilly into May, though spring blooms, including redbuds, azaleas and rhododendron, highlight the understory.
Avoid the crowds from December to March in the cooler temps of low season
North Carolina’s low season brings on smaller crowds and cooler temps with brief cold spells. The mountains can see up to 10in of snow between November and March, while the capital region of Raleigh and around receives closer to 7.5in annually, and the coastal regions see less than 2in.
Some find the solitude of winter beaches appealing, while winter-sports enthusiasts enjoy skiing and tubing in the mountains.
December is the high point, with holiday festivities including historic house tours, Christmas tree lightings and gingerbread house contests. Many festivities linger into the first week of January or longer.
January is the coldest month, with nighttime temperatures reaching as low as 20°F in the western mountain region. It’s also the snowiest month, with an annual snowfall of 1.8in. The most snow falls in the mountains and the central capital region, while the coastal plain and beaches see very little.
Some holdover holiday festivities add excitement through at least the first week of the new year. All North Carolina state parks hold a series of First Day hikes (many guided).
The Blue Ridge Parkway is closed until April or so due to inclement weather; check the NPS road closures page for specifics. Likewise, some secondary roads, campsites and visitor facilities at Great Smoky Mountains National Park are also closed in winter.
Key Events:Christmas at Biltmore; WinterLights at Manteo; Blowing Rock WinterFest (including a polar plunge)
Celebrate Black History month in February
The cold weather continues, including the continued possibility of snow in the western and central regions. Black History Month festivities unfurl across the state. Ephemeral flowers emerge in the Great Smoky Mountains, including trillium, lady slipper orchids, crested dwarf iris and bleeding heart, blooming through late April.
Key Events:Carolina Jazz Festival in Chapel Hill; North Carolina Jazz Festival in Wilmington; Wilmington Wine and Chocolate Festival; NC MLK/Black History Month Parade and Block Party in Durham; African American Cultural Celebration in Raleigh
As winter transitions into spring, the temps are still cool – even at the beach, the daily average is 65°F. But that doesn’t stop spring-breakers from heading to the Outer Banks (note that some beaches aren’t fully open until April).
Key Events:Green River Revival at the US National Whitewater Center in Charlotte; North Carolina Rice Festival in Leland
Smell the azaleas in April
Spring officially arrives, with several blissful weeks of mild temperatures, sunshine and beautiful blooms. The North Carolina Azalea Festival in Wilmington is the state’s largest spring festival. Minor league baseball’s season opens – the Charlotte Knights promise a fun afternoon at the ballpark.
By the end of the month, coastal waters start warming up, and bathers, stand-up paddleboarders and surfers dot the surf and sounds along the coast.
Key Events: MerleFest in Wilksboro; NC Azalea Festival in Wilmington; Piratefest in Greenville; Spring Wildflower Pilgrimage in Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Hit the hiking trails in May
Warming temps and lots of sunshine make May one of the state’s most pleasant months. Azaleas, rhododendrons and mountain laurels bloom at higher elevations, making May (into June) a glorious time to hike trails at Hanging Rock State Park, Grandfather Mountain and Pisgah National Forest (as well as at Great Smoky Mountains National Park, of course).
The entire month is North Carolina Wine Month, showcasing the state’s nearly 200 wineries, ranging from 6,000ft in elevation in the western part of the state to sea level in the east. It’s the birthplace of the scuppernong grape and home to one of the most visited wineries in the US – Biltmore Estate.
Key Events: North Carolina Brewers and Music Festival in Huntersville; U.S. National Whitewater Center’s River Jam Lineup; Carolina Blues Festival in Greensboro
Temperatures and humidity continue to rise, making late June perfect beach weather – averaging 83°F during the day in the Outer Banks; beach house rentals are more affordable (and easier to find) than in July and August.
Blueberry picking starts in mid-June and goes on through August; check this map for farms. Pride Month headlines a plethora of Pride events, including the capital’s Out! Raleigh Pride.
Key Events: North Carolina Trail Days in Elkin; NC Gold Festival at Vein Mountain; Art in the Park in Blowing Rock
Marvel at fireworks in July
July is the hottest and most humid month, with an average high of 88°F and hotter. This is beach weather – though if you haven’t made reservations for a beach rental up to a year in advance, you may be scrambling for accommodations.
Nearly every small town and beach community has Fourth of July events, including concerts, parades and of course fireworks. The North Carolina Fourth of July Festival in Southport and Oak Island has been celebrated since 1792.
Peaches, watermelon and cantaloupe overflow in roadside market stands. Summer hiking, camping, waterfall searching and paddling are popular in the mountains.
Key Events: Grandfather Mountain Highland Games; NC Peach Festival in Candor
Embrace the outdoors in August
The hot and humid temps continue into August, making the cities uncomfortable – and the beach an excellent choice. Outdoorsy activities are popular in the mountains.
Key Events:State of Origin Craft Beer Festival in Morganton
Go apple picking in September
As summer moves into fall, September brings relief from the hot and humid weather, an ideal time to enjoy the outdoors. The beach is still warm, and less crowded.
It’s also harvest season in this top apple-producing destination. Many pick-your-own orchards offer kids activities, including apple cannons, train or wagon rides, corn mazes and pumpkin patches.
Key Events:Labor Day weekend’s NC Apple Festival in Hendersonville; Mayberry Days in Mt Airy; Happy Valley Fiddler’s Convention in Lenoir; NC Mountain State Fair in Fletcher
The nice weather continues into October, and with average daily temps around 65°F, it’s prime time for leaf-peeping. The vibrant autumn spectacle spreads east from the mountains and across the Piedmont’s rolling foothills beginning mid-October – and the crowds follow.
To see the foliage change colors, the Blue Ridge Parkway is an iconic driving destination, while trails at Great Smoky Mountains National Park are popular among hikers. Different towns have fall foliage celebrations, including the Cashiers Valley Leaf Festival in Cashiers and Autumn Leaves Festival in Mt Airy.
A bounty of food festivals is held statewide, and it’s also NC Beer Month, with breweries hosting special events throughout the month. Corn mazes and pumpkin patches continue at farms throughout the state, including Briley’s Farm Market in Greenville.
Key Events:World of Bluegrass in Raleigh; Carolina Balloonfest in Statesville; Woolly Worm Festival in Banner Elk; Barbecue Festival in Lexington; NC Oyster Week along the NC Oyster Trails; Outer Banks Seafood Festival in Nags Head
Avoid the crowds in November
As the temperatures drop and the last leaves tumble to the ground, tourism drops off markedly. Toward the end of the month, holiday festivities commence, including floating parades along the coast and at Lake Norman.
Key Events: NC Holiday Flotilla at Wrightsville Beach; NC Whirligig Festival in Wilson; Piedmont Craftsmen’s Fair in Winston-Salem; Pottery Festival in Seagrove
Ring in the holidays in December
December is officially the first month of winter in most parts of North Carolina, with temps occasionally cracking the freezing mark.
The holiday season brings gingerbread contests, tours of ornately decorated historic houses and festivities (and lights) in small towns. Expect crowds and high prices in the holiday hubs.
Key Events: Christmas at Biltmore; National Gingerbread House Competition in Asheville; Christmas Town USA in McAdenville; Tweetsie Christmas and the Festival of Lights in Blowing Rock; WinterLights in Manteo
There are numerous ways to get around the beautiful island of Jamaica. From buses to cabs or route taxis, you’ll find a large number of transportation options – many of them informal.
Here’s all you need to know about getting around Jamaica.
Is it safe for tourists to drive in Jamaica?
Jamaica’s 4200 sq miles are well connected and easily navigated by car. All major towns have paved roads, albeit with varying degrees of potholes. Any foreign visitor should remember two essential tenets of driving here: everyone drives on the left, and motorists (especially taxi and bus drivers) are more aggressive on the road and use a “defensive” style of driving.
Jamaica is not a particularly walkable country, with major towns or points of interest quite spread out. For example, the 35-minute walk from Liguanea to Half Way Tree in Kingston is challenging in the blazing Caribbean heat, with security factors to consider if you walk at night.
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Are rental cars expensive in Jamaica?
If you plan to do lots of sightseeing in Jamaica, renting a car is ideal. Unfortunately, car-rental prices in Jamaica have lately skyrocketed, and are among the highest in the Caribbean. It’s easiest to rent your ride at the airport (most companies offer unlimited mileage), where you’ll find both established local companies like Island Car Rentals alongside international players like Hertz and Avis.
If you don’t want to take the wheel, you can charter your own driver for your trip (best arranged through your hotel). Another option is the Knutsford Express, an extremely popular and affordable private bus service that connects major towns and tourist spots across the island.
Yes. Jamaica’s public transport system consists of a network of buses and cabs that link towns large and small across the island. There is, however, no set timetable or schedule for when they arrive – you just have to embrace island time and wait for the next departure (on average, you can expect to catch a bus or taxi within 15 to 20 minutes). Most major towns have designated bus parks or transport centers.
Tip: in some towns, including Negril, motorbikes are a popular form of public transport. They act like route taxis and take passengers to and from specific points around the town.
How do I pay for public transport and cabs in Jamaica?
Paying for public transportations in Jamaica depends on whether you are taking the national JUTC bus, a private cab or a route “coaster” bus.
JUTC bus is the national bus system that can be found in the major cities of Kingston and Montego Bay. You can pay with cash or purchase a top-up transport card at various spots islandwide. If you take a taxi, whether a charter cab or a route taxi, you pay your fare at the end of your journey in cash.
Coaster buses form the wider bus network in Jamaica, often filling gaps where JUTC buses don’t go. There is usually a conductor on these buses who collects fares from each passenger. Either wait for the conductor to request all fares in cash at once, or pay just before you exit at your stop.
Is public transport safe in Jamaica?
Public transport in Jamaica is relatively safe and affordable. Just remember to always board public transport at main bus parks or terminals, be careful at night and make sure you have cash in small denominations rather than larger bills. For route taxis, avoid taking empty cars and try to travel with a mix of men and women as passengers.
Are cabs expensive in Jamaica?
It depends. There are two types of cabs or taxis in Jamaica: charter taxis and route taxis. Operated by taxi companies, chartered cabs are more expensive. You call ahead to book (charter) a cab, with the fare set by the company before your ride arrives. By contrast, route taxis run like buses and are the much cheaper option, with a fare only slightly higher than the bus.
Is there Uber in Jamaica?
Uber does exist in Jamaica, but it’s not as widespread as in the USA. Drivers are concentrated in cities like Kingston and Montego Bay. Keep in mind that where there is Uber coverage, it’s certain there will be a (cheaper) bus or taxi option.
What’s the best way to get around Jamaica?
If you’re planning to travel around the island, the best way to get around is by car or SUV. Consider renting a vehicle from one of the many reputable rental companies across the island. While you don’t need a car to travel around Jamaica thanks to public transport options, your own ride will be far more convenient and comfortable.
Accessible travel in Jamaica
While many hotels, parks, cruise ports and buildings across the country can accommodate people with mobility issues, there are unfortunately few accessibility options related to transportation. The best option is usually pre-booking a charter taxi or a private tour to get around the island.
On public transportation, accessibility is extremely limited, with buses unable to accommodate passengers in wheelchairs. Even if you’re able to get on the bus, there are almost no designated areas for your wheelchair. The rapid speed at which route taxis load and unload with passengers makes it very challenging for persons with accessibility needs.
Some charter-taxi companies, however, can provide accessible options; be sure to mention your specific requirements when you arrange the ride to ensure they send an appropriate vehicle. Additionally, some private tours provide accessible transport options, with tourist attractions around the island welcoming visitors with accessibility needs to varying degrees.
Park officials had no idea that the installation of live nature cameras at Brooks River ten years ago would lead to the wildly successful Fat Bear Week
Taiwan is an island of foodies where snacking is the national pastime, no matter the time of day (or night). The very definition of a melting pot, Taiwan’s incredible cuisine draws upon Chinese Fujian, Cantonese, and Hakka flavors, the foraged fare of Taiwan’s indigenous Peoples, and a sprinkling of Japanese and American influence, too.
You don’t need to go upmarket in Taiwan to eat the best food either – you’ll have some of the most profound dining experiences on the street, grazing past rows of mom ‘n’ pop stalls that fry, grill, or steam just one or two xiao chi (small eats) to perfection. Here’s our food primer to get you started on traditional food in Taiwan.
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Taiwanese beef noodle soup (台湾牛肉面) unites braised beef and chewy wheat noodles in a slow-simmered broth, with a tickle of Sichuan spice and a tang of pickled mustard greens. It’s not surprising to learn that this cuddle in a bowl was created by folks pining for a taste of home – veterans of China’s civil war who had crossed the sea to Taiwan, bringing their regional recipes with them. Today, niurou mian is Taiwan’s de facto national dish (it has its own festival) and has even been credited with reversing the island’s long-held taboo on eating beef.
Boba cha, also known as bubble tea, pearl milk tea, or zhenzhu naicha (珍珠奶茶), is the drinks craze Taiwan gifted to the world. Served at roadside stands and in chain outlets, the classic edition shakes up tea, milk, ice, sugar, and chewy pearls of tapioca. But these days it can be made with blended fruits, pureed taro, sweet potato balls, and even cheese – the more Instagram-worthy the better. But what almost all the boba variants have in common is a cocktail-style shake over ice before serving and an extra-wide straw to hoover up all those springy, syrupy ‘bubbles’ of tapioca along with the tea.
Taiwanese have got it right – snacking just feels way more fun at night! At night markets all over the island, dozens of vendors – each typically family-run – dish up cheap, moreish mouthfuls under the glow of bare bulbs: think soups, sausages, squid skewers, sweet treats, stinky tofu, and stuff stuffed inside other stuff. Some night market snacks are food icons in their own right, like gooey oyster omelets (蚵仔煎), ‘salt-crisp’ fried chicken tossed with basil leaves and five-spice, and shaved ice desserts (剉冰) topped with red beans, mango, taro balls, and bathed in sweet condensed milk.
Din Tai Fung served its first-ever steamer of hand-pleated xiaolongbao (steamed pork dumplings filled with soup) in Taipei in 1972 and it endures as some of the most famous food in Taiwan. The original Xinyi Road branch is still going strong, with daily queues attesting to the quality and simplicity of its Shanghai fare. It also features warming wonton soup and pork cutlet over egg-fried rice. In 2010, the brand picked up its first Michelin star, not in Taipei but Hong Kong. Now truly a worldwide icon, the Taiwan-born chain has over 170 branches across the globe.
Despite being overwhelmingly Han Chinese, Taiwan is home to half a million indigenous islanders from 16 officially recognized Peoples. These aboriginal Formosans have evolved a cuisine derived from the foraged fare of mountain veggies, seafood, and wild game. In Taiwan’s remote regions, you’re sure to come across wild boar served with onions and greens, steamed rice stuffed into bamboo tubes, and millet wine – once the tonic of tribal rituals. You might also encounter dishes of betel-nut salad, bird’s nest fern and even flying squirrel; everything that the forests and mountains have traditionally provided.
Where to try it: Taiya Popo, Yilain.
Bar hop through Taipei’s craft beer and cocktail scene
Taipei has taken to craft beer in a typically stylish and idiosyncratic way. En-vogue bars from the likes of Taihu, Sunmei, and Zhangmen (all home-grown brands) pour creative brews in thimble-sized glasses, harnessing the bold flavors of local ingredients like kumquats, longan honey, and smoked plums. Craft cocktails are booming too, with speakeasy-style joints like Ounce Taipei mixing masterful creations in a moody dark-wood setting.
Done well, Taiwan’s spin on green-onion-and-fried-egg pancakes (蔥油餅; congyoubing) is food heaven on a shoestring – crisp, pillowy, and just oily enough to cure a hangover. Often sold from the humblest of carts, the best street food purveyors will have a line of hungry diners waiting. If you also see a cook of advancing years at the wok, you know you’re on to a good thing. Join that queue.
Making up 15-20% of Taiwan’s population, the Hakka people are a Han Chinese subgroup with their own language, customs, and food. Heavy on the pork, tofu, and soy sauce, Hakka dishes are salty and strong-flavored without being spicy. Historically, the Hakka were farmers used to long days in the fields, so their food needed to be suitably hearty. The rural district of Meinong in Kaohsiung is overwhelmingly Hakka and a great place to try specialties like stuffed tofu, bantiao (glutinous rice noodles), braised pork hock, and the rich delight that is lei cha (ground tea).
Where to try it: Meinong Traditional Hakka Restaurant, Meinong.
Rip apart the world’s tastiest roast chicken
Weng yao ji (earthen kiln chicken) is the ultimate Taiwan road trip feast. Marinated mountain chickens are roasted whole in wood-fired urns that resemble giant tandoors, resulting in the perfect symphony of juicy, flavourful meat and crisp, golden skin. The go-to purveyor is Thumbs Up Chicken (spot the yellow fiberglass mascot outside), a raucous family restaurant chain with branches orbiting Taipei, where hundreds of birds are roasted daily, torn apart by gloved diners and gobbled up alongside mouth-watering stir-fries and icy bottles of Taiwan Beer.
One of the more fusion of Taiwan’s snacks, this burrito-like street food is assembled while you wait, a crepe folded around three scoops of fruit ice cream, shards of peanut candy, and sprigs of cilantro that cut through the sweetness with a floral zing. Called run bing (潤餅), the dish is a playful dessert riff on a savory spring roll of the same name originating from Fujian on the mainland and traditionally filled with shredded turnip, sausage, peanuts, and cilantro.
Buddhist roots run deep, so most towns will have a few vegetarian and vegan eateries serving healthy Taiwanese food or utilizing ‘mock meat’ made of tofu or gluten to mimic well-known meat or fish dishes. Buddhist vegetarian restaurants are easy to find. Just look for the large savastika (an ancient Buddhist symbol that looks like a reverse swastika) hanging in front of the restaurant.
The Bahamas are a byword for beach-vacation bliss. Scattered like emeralds between Florida and the Caribbean, this Atlantic archipelago comprises more than 3000 subtropical islands and cays, most uninhabited.
Lushly subtropical, they’re fringed with teeming coral reefs and world-famous beaches, offering as much to divers and hikers as they do to sunseekers in search of banging beachside bars.
Here are the best eight places to visit in the Bahamas.
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1. Nassau
Best place for nightlife
Nassau is the unchallenged nightlife capital of the Bahamas. Historically a haven for pirates and smugglers, the city’s treasures now attract travelers.
Ground zero for any Nassau night out is the Fish Fry on Arawak Cay, just west of the center of town. Shacks slinging fried fish, freshly cut conch salad and sky juice (a local favorite drink of gin, green coconut water and condensed milk) mingle with bars booming out reggae and rake-and-scrape (the local sound) from 7pm every evening.
Once your night’s started, head back downtown for rum punch and sandy toes at the clapboard bars of Junkanoo Beach, a Black Beer’d Stout at Pirate Republic microbrewery or even a dress-up-nice cocktail at Sky Bar.
Planning Tip: If you want an early kick-off, John Watling’s Distillery – a working rum factory in a gorgeous 18th-century estate – opens at 10am.
2. The Biminis
Best place for game fishing
One of Ernest Hemingway’s favorite fishing grounds, the tiny Biminis are only 80km (50 miles) from Florida. Sitting on the edge of the Gulf Stream, they’re magnets for game fishers seeking the marlin, sailfish and swordfish that swarm these waters.
Head for Alice Town, North Bimini, and base yourself among the best selection of hotels and restaurants. Stay at the Bimini Big Game Club for a taste of 1950s luxury and guided game fishing jaunts and make sure to visit the gloriously eccentric Dolphin House, part museum and part loving tribute to the wild dolphins of the Bahamas.
Hungry? Stuart’s Conch Stand in Bailey Town does some of the best conch and lobster salads in the islands.
Planning Tip: The billfish these waters are famed for are most plentiful in summer.
Known as “Briland” to locals and regular visitors, lovely little Harbour Island is a favorite haunt of celebrities such as George Glooney and Jessica Alba. A short water-taxi ride from parent-island Eleuthera, it’s famous for colonial architecture and stunning sandscapes such as Pink Sands Beach, rose-tinted with crushed coral.
Briland is blessed with boutique accommodations like Pink Sands Resort and Runaway Hill, formerly a grand private seafront estate that was built in the 1940s. You’re always just a serene stroll away from fine restaurants like Malcolm 51 and Rock House Restaurant or the sandy floors and sunsets at Gusty’s Bar.
Planning Tip: Bahamas Ferries‘ fast boats get you from Nassau to Harbour Island in two hours and in greater comfort than a flight to Eleuthera.
4. Elbow Cay
Best place for historic architecture
The British history of the Bahamas is most evident in Elbow Cay. The prettiest of the gorgeous Abacos islands, its epicenter is Hope Town, founded by British loyalists in 1785 and distinguished by bougainvillea, brightly painted cottages and the iconic Elbow Reef Lighthouse.
Its sheltered bay bristling with masts, Hope Town is also a yachting haven. Happily, its car-free streets are blessed with winsome hotels like the Abaco Inn, both exemplars of the pastel clapboard architecture that’s strictly maintained here. Knowledgeable local operators like Sundried T’s and Froggies Out Island Adventures rent surfboards and guide diving and snorkeling expeditions on surrounding reefs and beaches.
Mangroves meet underwater caves in one of the Bahama’s greatest natural attractions: Lucayan National Park on Grand Bahama. Named for the original inhabitants of the Bahamas and populated by raccoons and native birds like the Bahama woodstar hummingbird, this 16-hectare (40-acre) swath of protected wilderness encompasses all six naturally occurring Bahamian vegetation zones. Ben’s Cave and Burial Mound Cave are just two of the most easily accessed of its underwater cave system, one of the world’s longest.
Bahamas EcoVentures is our pick for walking tours with expert guides, while Grand Bahama Nature Tours leads fantastic kayaking expeditions around the park’s mangrove-fringed coast.
Planning Tip: Grand Bahama International Airport flies direct to Miami, Fort Lauderdale and several other North American cities.
The Exumas, a central-Bahamian archipelago, is known for secluded resort luxury and incredible diving. At its heart lies the Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park, the Bahamas’ richest reef ecosystem. The 283 sq km (109 sq mile) expanse encompasses more than 300 islands and cays, pristine fringing reefs and idyllic sailing waters.
Dive Exuma, the only PADI-certified dive shop in Great Exuma’s capital George Town, is the experienced, professional outfit we recommend to explore this undersea fantasia.
If you want to see Exuma’s famous swimming pigs, you can’t go past Staniel Cay Yacht Club, a beachside haven of bungalows, kayaking and stress-free comfort that’s as close as you can get to Big Major Cay’s Pig Beach.
7. Blue Holes National Park
Best place for swimming in karst sinkholes
Andros, the “Big Yard,” is the largest island in the Bahamas, and one of the wildest. Its 5960 sq km (2301 sq miles) of mangrove, pine forest and reef are dotted with “blue holes,” deep karst sinkholes that sustain unique ecosystems and provide perhaps the island’s greatest spectacle.
More abundant here than anywhere else on earth, they’re the focus of the 16,1870-hectare (40,000-acre) Blue Holes National Park. Trails and information boards lead travelers to the park’s more accessible sites, such as Captain Bill’s Hole, where you’ll find both a swimming deck and bathrooms.
Others, including Cousteau’s Hole (named for the famous undersea explorer), are less accessible but equally inviting to hikers and swimmers. Small Hope Bay Lodge, set against the mangroves in nearby Andros Town, offers 21 luxurious units and activities including blue-hole dives and snorkeling “safaris.”
Planning Tip: There’s no public transport on the Bahamas’ biggest island. Rent a car at Andros Town Airport.
8. Conception Island
Best place for getting away from it all
Conception Island is a secluded pocket of paradise that seems almost entirely untouched by humans. It’s the centerpiece of Conception Island National Park, an oasis of thriving mangroves, vivid coral gardens and abundant wildlife. Conception Island Wall, a gorgeous playground of coral heads, sponges and colorful critters, starts at 14m (46ft) in waters of exceptional clarity.
These waters and the beaches they wash are home to abundant green turtles, fish nurseries, conch and crawfish. Conception’s unpeopled forests are also an important sanctuary for migratory birds.
With a dramatic rocky coastline broken by scenic beaches, a rich seafood tradition and ski resorts and state parks rising into the hills, Maine is known as Vacationland for good reason. Summer and early fall are great times of year to enjoy the state’s natural beauty, but if you can handle the cold, winter offers a whole different view and set of activities.
Whether you come for the summer sun, the fall colors or year-round history, this month-by-month guide, covering the weather conditions and key events, will help you choose the best time for your visit to Maine.
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For fresh seafood and outdoor adventures, come from June to September
Maine’s Vacationland comes alive in the summer months, as holidaymakers gather across the state. From the sandy beaches of southern Maine to the forested hiking trails in the north and the seafood shacks all along the coast, there’s plenty to enjoy, and plenty of people will be enjoying the experience alongside you.
The crowds bring high prices, so you’ll need to book well in advance at hotels and campgrounds. The summer is fairly short and sweet in Maine – the weather is generally hot and humid from late June through August. Bring an appetite as the summertime seafood bonanza makes for delicious mealtimes.
October and May are the best months for seasonal color and avoiding crowds
Maine’s shoulder season is one of the best times to Maine if you prefer a quieter experience and lower prices. Early October brings rainbow-colored foliage, apple picking and cooler weather, while May is a great time to enjoy Maine without the summer crowds, with many seasonal businesses opening their doors for the season around Memorial Day. Bring a warm coat as some parts of the state can still see snow in spring or fall, especially in the north and at higher elevations.
November to April is chilly in Maine, but great forsnow sports
Winter is the low season for coastal and southern Maine, but the high season in western and northern areas, where outdoor recreation in the snow is the main draw. Maine is home to some of the best ski resorts on the East Coast, and northern Maine is popular for snowmobiling. Many hiking trails are groomed for the snow season, and can be traversed using snowshoes or cross-country skis.
January is snowy and busy in the ski resorts
By January, winter sports are in full swing across the state of Maine. All of the ski mountains are open and, depending on the snow quality, many cross-country skiing trails are open as well. In the cities, it’s time to get cozy by the fireplace at happy hour and admire the snow from inside. Key events: New Years’ Day Lobster Dip in Old Orchard, Snodeo in Rangeley
February sits under dark, cold skies
The days are dark and the weather is cold in February, but there are lots of winter festivals and fun outdoor activities to enjoy. Kennebunkport comes alive for the Paint the Town Red celebrations and many hotels throughout the state host ice bars. Key events:US National Toboggan Championship at the Camden Snowbowl, Paint the Town Red in Kennebunkport, Acadia Winter Festival in Acadia National Park
March in Maine still feels very much like winter across most of the state. You’ll start to see a peek of spring in the south, but skiing and snowmobiling are still popular activities in northern parts of Maine. Portland and surrounding towns celebrate Maine Restaurant Week in early March, and many of the state’s best restaurants have special menus and deals. The third weekend of the month is reserved for another Maine tradition – Maine Maple Sunday, where maple sugar shacks open across the state selling sweet treats. Key events: Maine Restaurant Week in Portland, Maine Maple Sunday across the state
The mud doesn’t dampen the party mood in April
April is Maine’s unofficial fifth season – mud season. The snow is melting in the mountains and ski resorts throw massive parties to celebrate the end of the season. The weather is unpredictable – one day it might snow, and the next it’ll be 70°F (21°C). Whatever the weather is doing, April is when Mainers come out of hibernation and enjoy the early signs of spring, putting on their shorts as soon as the mercury hits 50°F (10°C). Key events: Reggae Festival at Sugarloaf Mountain, Parrothead Fest at Sunday River
May brings the first hint of the pending summer crowds
The days are warmer, and the flowers begin to bloom in Maine after the long winter. May is when many of Maine’s seasonal businesses open early before the summer crowds arrive. Reservations are easy to arrange at the best restaurants, and Acadia National Park is quiet.
Memorial Day is the unofficial kick-off to the summer, but tourists don’t typically arrive until the Fourth of July, making May one of the best months to visit if you don’t want to wait hours for a table or compete with crowds on the hiking trails. Key events: Bug Light Kite Festival in South Portland, Taste of Bar Harbor Food Festival in Bar Harbor, Memorial Day parades and events throughout the state
June sees the weather warm as people hit the beaches
June brings summer weather without the crowds. Temperatures vary but are typically in the mid-70s, and the schools let out for the summer. Restaurants, hiking trails and beaches are becoming a bit more crowded but visiting is still a relaxing experience.
June is also the start of black fly season, so if you’re hitting the woods for some outdoor adventures be prepared with insect repellent and stay covered up. Events and festivals take place throughout the state, and June is strawberry picking season. Key events:Pride Portland, Windjammer Days in Boothbay Harbor, Portland Wine Week in Portland, Kennebunkport Festival in Kennebunkport
July sees plenty of Independence Day spirit
The Fourth of July holiday marks the start of the high tourist season in Maine. The weather becomes hot and humid, and crowds gather at Maine’s beaches and country campgrounds. You’ll need to book accommodations and restaurant reservations in advance. On the plus side, the seafood is fresh off the boat, and many towns across the state celebrate America’s Independence Day with parades and fireworks. Key events: 4th of July events throughout the state, Yarmouth Clam Festival in Yarmouth, Maine Potato Blossom Festival in Fort Fairfield, North Atlantic Blues Festival in Rockland
August is peak summer with peak crowds
The dog days of summer are here in Maine. Tourist season is at its peak, and the southern beaches are crowded. Traffic can be heavy on the weekends, especially when heading to Acadia National Park. Summer in Maine only lasts a short time, so ignore the crowds and enjoy the hot weather while it lasts because more snow will be here before you know it. Key events:Maine Lobster Festival in Rockland, Machias Wild Blueberry Festival in Machias, Great Falls Balloon Festival in Lewiston, Belfast Harbor Fest in Belfast.
September brings late summer warmth and quieter resorts
September is probably the best month to visit Maine. After Labor Day, the crowds get smaller, but the weather is still balmy. The ocean is usually warm enough for swimming and water sports, and the fair season kicks off, with lots of craft and agricultural fairs. Farmers’ markets are overrun with delicious summer produce and apple picking season starts. Key events:Common Ground Fair in Unity, Camden Windjammer Festival in Camden, Maine Open Lighthouse Day throughout the state, Cumberland County Fair in Cumberland
October brings a blast of fall color
The leaves in Maine explode in a kaleidoscope of colors in October. Tourists come from near and far to see the fall foliage that typically peaks in early October, but it’s still quieter than the summer peak. Fair season ends with Maine’s oldest and largest fair, the Fryeburg Fair. October is the perfect time to visit Acadia National Park and Bar Harbor before everything closes for the season. Temperatures are mild, but snow isn’t uncommon in northern part of the state. Key events:Fryeburg Fair in Fryeburg, Freeport Fall Festival in Freeport, North American Wife Carrying Championship at Sunday River
November is one of those in-between months in Maine. It’s not entirely fall and not quite winter, though the days are much cooler and it gets dark early. It’s a great time to enjoy local restaurants and breweries though. If Mother Nature cooperates, ski resorts may open for early-season skiing. Key events: Harvest on the Harbor in Portland, Lighting of Nubble Lighthouse in York, opening day at the Sunday River and Sugarloaf ski areas
December is holiday time in Maine
The holiday season kicks off strong in early December. The small coastal town of Kennebunkport turns into a scene from a Hallmark movie and Portland celebrates the Christmas Boat Parade of Lights. Mainers cross their fingers for a white Christmas, and the temperatures drop below freezing, so wrap up warm. Key events: Christmas Prelude in Kennebunkport, Gardens Aglow at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens, Sparkle Celebration in Freeport
Maine has a reputation for being cultured, foodie, outdoorsy and steeped in history. It’s also known for being, particularly if you check into historic seaside hotels and dine out on lobster dinners. But a vacation in Maine doesn’t have to cost a fortune – you can hike, swim, cross-country ski and enjoy the arts scene, all for free.
From York to Fort Fairfield and everywhere in between, you’ll find loads of free (or inexpensive) activities to keep you busy in Maine year-round, meaning you can save your money for special experiences such as special seafood dinners and the odd overnight stay on the shore.
Whether you fancy a hike on the rocky coastline in search of local wildlife, or front-row seats at a mashed-potato wrestling match, you’ll find plenty of fun for free Maine – just keep your camera ready! Here’s a guide to the top free things to do in Maine.
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1. Tour Maine’s lighthouses
Most of Maine’s lighthouses are free to explore, including the famous Portland Head Light in Cape Elizabeth, commissioned by George Washington and probably the most photographed lighthouse in the country. Pack a picnic and enjoy the adjacent 90-acre Fort Williams Park with its stunning ocean views and old forts. Not far down the road, you can swing by the Spring Point Ledge Lighthouse and Big Light in South Portland.
As you head up the coast, you’ll find more lighthouses in the Midcoast region, such as Owl’s Head Lighthouse and Rockland Breakwater Lighthouse in Rockland and the famous Marshall Point Lighthouse in Port Clyde (you might recognize its profile from the movie, Forrest Gump). West Quoddy State Park in Lubec is the easternmost point in the continental United States and home to West Quoddy Head Lighthouse, a distinct candy-striped tower commissioned by Thomas Jefferson.
Planning tip: While many lighthouses are free to visit, staying in a lighthouse costs a little more. One of the more affordable options is the Little River Light on an offshore island near Cutler, built in 1876 and still used to keep this stretch of coast safe for shipping.
Horror fans won’t want to miss Stephen King’s spooky mansion on West Broadway Street in Bangor. This stately red mansion and its creepy wrought-iron fence evoke the author’s most famous works, and the supernatural-looking wooden tree carving in the front yard is worth the stop alone. Unfortunately, you probably won’t catch a glimpse of the famous author (as he resides mostly in Florida), but you never know! There are plans to eventually open the house to the public as a museum.
Looking for more free stuff to do in Bangor? Snap a selfie with the Paul Bunyan statue, look for wildlife in the 80-acre Bangor City Forest, or walk or bike along the Penobscot River Walkway. Fort Knox (the other Fort Knox) and the Penobscot Narrows Bridge are a 25-minute drive from Bangor, offering incredible views of the Penobscot River and tons of history.
Planning tip: If you’re on a literary kick, other famous homes you can visit or see from the street include Henry Wadsworth Longfellow’s residence in Portland, EB White’s home in Brookline, and Harriet Beecher Stowe’s house in Brunswick.
Southern Maine is largely taken up by York and Cumberland Counties and it provides a home for most of the state’s 1.3 million people. It’s easy to understand why – York County is home to some of Maine’s best sandy beaches. Long Sand Beach in York and Ogunquit Beach a little further north are two of the most beautiful beaches in New England, perfect for vacations during Maine’s short, warm summers.
Old Orchard Beach toward Scarborough is one of Maine’s busiest beaches during the summer, thanks to its nostalgic pier and amusement park. As you head north, sandy beaches begin to disappear, replaced by Maine’s signature rocky coastline, but you’ll still find a few sandy spots for a dip in the Atlantic as you drift up the coast.
Planning tip: Maine’s southern beaches get extremely busy in the summer; consider visiting out of season, when the long, lovely strips of sand take on a different character, inviting long, contemplative walks.
4. Stroll the First Friday Art Walk in Portland
Maine’s largest city is the state’s cultural hub, home to world-class restaurants, hip breweries, cool coffee shops and more. It’s easy to spend hundreds of dollars here just on food and beer, but there are lots of free things to do to help you balance your budget.
Portland’s First Friday Art Walk happens on the first Friday of every month, and many of the city’s art galleries and studios open to the public for free, often providing free snacks and wine. For more art, the Portland Museum of Art (PMA) in the heart of downtown has a permanent collection of over 18,000 artworks by art greats from Andy Warhol to Claude Monet, and entry is free late on Friday afternoon.
Planning tip: As well as European greats, the PMA is home to one of the largest collections of works by Winslow Homer – considered to be one of the greatest American painters of the 19th century – who spent much of his life in Maine. PMA owns Homer’s studio in Prouts Neck and tours are available for an additional fee.
Maine is home to thousands of miles of hiking, biking and nature trails. As well as various sections of the Appalachian Trail, take time to explore the free-to-visit Alewive Woods Preserve in Kennebunk, a 625-acre nature preserve with 2.5 miles of easy hiking trails.
Just an hour north of Portland, Pleasant Mountain in Bridgton makes for a perfect day hike, with rewarding views of western Maine. With kids in tow, the Shoreline Trail in Moosehead region’s Lily Bay State Park is an easy two-mile trail for the whole family, and you may even see a moose if you’re lucky.
For slightly harder hiking trails, the Bethel area is home to Grafton Notch State Park and the Mahoosuc Public Lands. The Appalachian Trail runs through the park, and there are other nearby easier trails if you prefer a shorter day hike.
Planning tip: To avoid crowds on the trails, consider hiking in the spring or in late fall once the summer crowds have departed and the leaf-peepers have returned to the cities. Just bring appropriate outdoor wear for the changeable weather.
Every summer, famous outdoor outfitter LL Bean hosts Summer in the Park at its flagship store in Freeport. Shop for flannel shirts and duck boots before enjoying a free concert by big names such as Walker Hayes and Brandi Carlile. In addition to regular concerts, LL Bean also hosts free yoga classes, fitness classes, movie nights and more – shaking up its traditional image! All events are family-friendly so even the little members of your family can have heaps of fun.
With thousands of miles of cross-country skiing trails throughout the state, snow doesn’t have to stop your fun. Many walking trails across the state can be accessed in winter with snowshoes or cross-country skis, including many routes in Acadia National Park, which are free to use during the winter months. Acadia Winter Trails Association volunteers groom miles of the carriage trails for skiing.
There are 15 miles of free cross-country ski trails to play on in Katahdin Woods and Waters National Monument. If you’re new to cross-country skiing, you can explore the beautifully groomed trails at Pineland Farms in New Gloucester for less than $20.
Planning tip: Sledding fans (both adults and kids) will find loads of great sledding hills to enjoy. Bring your best sled to Payson Park in Portland, Essex Street Hill in Bangor or Mighty Hill in Gorham.
For a unique Maine experience, head north into Aroostook County for the Maine Potato Blossom Festival, held annually in Fort Fairfield in July. The festival takes place when the potato fields blossom, and features more than 85 events spread over nine days. There’s a town-wide yard sale, nightly entertainment, a huge parade, fireworks and legendary mashed potato wrestling bouts. Most events are free or low cost and the festival is great family fun.
Every April, the US National Park Services celebrates National Park Week, and you can visit any of the country’s national parks for free, including Acadia National Park. Located on Mount Desert Island about 3½ hours north of Portland, this was the first national park established east of the Mississippi River and it’s a true highlight of Maine.
Featuring 27 miles of scenic motorways, 158 miles of hiking trails and 45 miles of carriage roads mostly built by the Rockefeller family, Acadia National Park is an incredible place to explore. Watch the sunrise over the country from atop Cadillac Mountain, take a chilly sip in the Atlantic at Sand Beach, or hike to the summit of any of the granite peaks in the park.
Planning tip: While Acadia National Park encompasses a large section of Mount Desert Island, there’s more to this scenic piece of coastline than the national park. Head outside the park boundaries to find free hiking trails and peaceful places to swim.
Maine is a great place to explore on two wheels, with light traffic on the backroads, and plenty of backroads to explore. If you’re in the southern Maine region, hop on your bike and cycle the22-mile Eastern Trail from Big Light in South Portland to Kennebunk.
For more hardcore cyclists, the multi-day Down East Sunrise Trail from Ellsworth to Ayers Junction covers just over 100 miles on paved or gravel roads. Bond Brooks Trails in Augusta has 6 miles of free-to-use single-track mountain biking trails and Quarry Road Trails in nearby Waterville has more mountain bike trails that are free to all.
