Category: Travel

A look: Themed cruises

Travelers sound off

To help boost its appeal to tourists, local residents are transforming their lakeside town into a living art installation

South Carolina is famous for the southern-charm-filled cities of Charleston and Beaufort, sparkling sea islands with Gullah heritage, and the up-and-coming capital city of Columbia.

When planning a visit, there’s no shortage of things to do – from prime fishing lakes and streams to champion trees towering above record-breaking bottomland forests or hiking trails through waterfall-filled woodlands.

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But before you book your trip, make a list of the top things you want to do in South Carolina and check the weather forecast. The last thing you want is to be sweating through Charleston’s cobbled streets in the unforgiving humidity or going to the beach during a hurricane threat.

Here’s our guide to the best time to visit South Carolina.

The high season is the best time to go to the beach (June-August)

There’s no way around it – summer in this subtropical state is miserably hot and humid. The best place to escape the heat is along the palm-bedecked coast. Expect crowds, higher prices and lower availability. Pack sunscreen, sunglasses, and beachwear.

Consider visiting attractions that have air-conditioning, such as Columbia’s plethora of excellent museums like the South Carolina State Museum and Columbia Museum of Art. The restaurant scene in the capital city is a mix of traditional favorites and pioneering newcomers with Terra and SmallSUGAR at the top of the list.

Fishing and splashing in the Upstate lakes and rivers are an option, too. The temps are slightly cooler as you travel toward the hills of Appalachia, in the state’s northwestern corner.

The hardest time to get a room (or a cheap flight) in Charleston is during Spoleto (Memorial Day to mid-June), the several-week event when the city’s churches, theaters and outdoor spaces are filled with performances.

The city sees fewer visitors from July to mid-September, thanks to the heat. On the flip side, it’s a good time to go if you want to snag dinner reservations at one of the city’s coveted restaurants. Bring an umbrella to protect yourself from sudden thunderstorms.

Enjoy outdoor festivals during shoulder season (April/May and September/October)

South Carolina is in glorious bloom in April and May, with relatively fewer visitors and mild, sunny weather. Festivals explode throughout the state, celebrating food, wine, music and horses.

This is also a good time to explore the offerings of Charleston, Columbia, Beaufort and Greenville. Keep in mind that early spring is tornado season and there’s a chance of thunderstorms – pack light layers, an umbrella, and a jacket.

Fall brings spectacular foliage in the mountains and tolerable temps throughout. It’s a great time for mountain hikes, scenic drives, and golfing. Festivals continue with an autumnal theme, including beer, shrimp, food, and music. Bring a sweater for cooler nights.

Low season is perfect for budget travelers (November-March)

As winter blankets the land, the tourist crush subsides, and accommodation rates become less expensive.

The temperatures are mild, with crisp nights and brief cold spells. Along the coast, the average daytime temp is 60°F – perfect for a walk on the beach. Bear in mind that the farther inland you go toward Appalachia, the cooler it gets – nighttime temps can drop to freezing.

There is some snowfall, though snowstorms are rare. Pack a mid-weight jacket and sweaters. Though you’ll spot locals wearing scarves and mittens, it’s generally in the interests of fashion rather than warmth!

When is hurricane season?

Hurricane season kicks in late August through October, with September being the highest risk. Tornados threaten again in November.

Avoid the crowds in January

The state’s coldest month, the average daytime temp is 58°F – not too bad for a winter’s day. Though if you head to the mountains, the thermometer can dip into the 40s and below. Accommodations are at their lowest rates.

Key Events: Restaurant Week South Carolina, Charleston Boat Show

Nab a hotel deal in February

Winter is on its way out and temperatures start to climb, though it’s still chilly and there can be rain. Festivals gain momentum. Camellias start to bloom, especially gorgeous at Middleton Place. There are still deals to be found for hotels.

Key Events: Southeastern Wildlife Exhibition in Charleston, Lowcountry Oyster Festival in Charleston, Hilton Head Island Seafood Festival

Go birdwatching in March

March can be wet, though temperatures are mild. Wildflowers start appearing everywhere. Birds start their spring migration along the Atlantic Flyway; hot spots include Huntington Beach, considered by many to be the best bird-watching spot along the East Coast. Triple Crown equestrian events take place in Aiken.

Key Events: Charleston Food & Wine Festival, Craftsmen’s Classics Art & Craft Festival in Columbia

Hike amidst wildflowers in April

Azaleas and dogwoods bloom, and the temps are mild, making this the ideal time to hike, bike, cycle and golf.

Extraordinary spring wildflowers ignite the landscape from April into May, from the Upstate to the Lowcountry. Local farmer’s markets open up throughout the region, their stalls laden with squash, zucchini, and sweet peas.

In late spring look for soft-shell crabs – Atlantic blue crabs that have recently molted their hard shell and are deep-fried or pan-seared and often tucked into a sandwich. You’ll find them on menus across the state, though the best places are in the Lowcountry.

Key Events: Aiken Horse Show, World Grits Festival in St. George, Charleston Jazz Festival, Historic Pendleton Spring Jubilee, RBC Heritage Classic Golf Tournament in Hilton Head

Visit Farmer’s markets in May

Everything, including prices, starts to heat up. Water parks and other summer attractions open their doors. Look for Georgia peaches, field peas, and okra at farmer’s markets and roadside stands.

Key Events: Freedom Weekend Aloft in Anderson, Original Gullah Festival in Beaufort, Artisphere in Greenville, Cook Out Southern 500 in Darlington

Head to the river in June

This month is one of the best times to be outdoors in South Carolina – summer wildflowers line the trails and the river rafting in the mountains is sublime. It starts heating up toward the end of the month. Shrimp is plentiful along the coast into late December.

Key Events: Brookgreen Gardens Art Festival, South Carolina Festival of Flowers in Greenwood

Hit the beach in July

The state’s hottest month, it’s miserably warm and muggy (the seasonal norm is 94°F, plus humidity). It’s also the state’s wettest month, with an average of 5.5 inches of rain. It’s a good time to head to the beach or the mountains. Pack an umbrella, just in case.

Fourth of July events explode throughout the state, with some of the best in Charleston, Myrtle Beach, Columbia, and Greenville.

Lake Murray hosts thousands of purple martins, which depart from their summer home on Doolittle Island in a flurry of flapping wings, returning at dusk in another spectacular show.

Key Events: Beaufort Water Festival, South Carolina Peach Festival in Gaffney, The Sweetgrass Festival in Mount Pleasant

Keep an eye on hurricanes in August

Peak tourism season arrives, with the beaches especially crowded with visitors. Keep an eye on hurricanes potentially brewing along the coast.

Key Events: Gullah/Geechee Nation International Music & Movement Festival in Charleston, Low Country Jazz Festival in North Charleston

Feast on food and wine in September

The heat slowly retreats, which is why September (and October) offer an inordinate amount of food, wine, music and arts festivals. Fall colors begin to show, especially in the Upstate, and U-pick farms are abundant. The oyster season kicks off; watch for oyster roasts along the coast.

Key Events: Euphoria in Greenville, MOJA Arts Festival in Charleston, South Carolina Tobacco Festival in Lake City, South Carolina Apple Festival in Westminster

Sports season kicks off in October

The festival season continues, including house tours, food-and-wine fests, and the state fair. Football is in the air everywhere; good luck finding a room in Columbia and Clemson if the Gamecocks and Tigers are playing at home. Polo and steeplechase tournaments take place in Aiken.

Fall foliage in the Upstate is at its crowning glory (though you’ll see color well into December in some places); enjoy it along trails in state parks including Caesars Head and Table Rock, which you can access along the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway.

Late October into November is peak monarch butterfly migration season when thousands of these orange-and-black beauties stop by Lowcountry beaches to fill up with nectar; they prefer groundsel trees, a large shrub with stiff, spreading branches.

Key Events: South Carolina Jazz Festival, The Fall Tours of Homes and Gardens, Beaufort Shrimp Festival, South Carolina State Fair in Columbia

Bring your umbrella in November

The temps start dipping into the 50s, with the possibility of rain. Fall foliage continues in the Upstate.

Key Events: Hilton Head Island Concours d’Elegance & Motoring Festival, Dickens Christmas Show & Festivals in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina Pecan Festival in Florence

Ring in the holidays in December

As the temperatures cool – averaging in the mid-50s – the holiday season brings parades, holiday lights, and other festive events.

Key Events: Beaufort International Film Festival, Elgin Catfish Stomp, Holiday Lights on the River in Columbia

​​Congestion is a part of life in Puerto Rico, where everyone and their grandmother owns a car, and driving is the predominant mode of transportation. This is also due to Puerto Rico being a large island, the dearth of public transportation and numerous far-flung destinations. 

That said, it’s perfectly possible to navigate the capital of San Juan by bus, metro, taxi and on foot. As for the rest of the island, here are the best ways to get around.

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San Juan has a bus network and a metro system

San Juan is the only city in Puerto Rico that’s served by an extensive network of clean, air-conditioned city buses. However, route maps and information can be hard to find and few bus stops indicate which buses stop where. Service can also be erratic, with wait times between 30 and 60 minutes. Ask around at bus stops, where veteran riders will offer advice.

San Juan is the only city in Puerto Rico with an inexpensive, efficient metro. Trains run every 16 minutes daily between 5:30am and 11:30pm, connecting the popular neighborhood of Santurce with the university campus of Río Piedras and shopping centers in Hato Rey and Torrimar with far-flung Guaynabo and Bayamón.

Cycling on the road in Puerto Rico is an extreme sport

To put it bluntly, cycling across Puerto Rico is foolhardy at best, and tantamount to a death wish at worst. Cyclists have to contend with multiple hazards, from nightmare traffic and poor road conditions to dangerous drivers, and a general lack of awareness about cyclists’ needs. Cycling after dark is a major no-no.

…except in San Juan, where there are designated bike lanes

Recreational cycling is possible in San Juan, where there’s a pleasant and safe cross-city route along the shoreline from Old San Juan through Condado and Isla Verde as far as Piñones (the last part is on a designated bike lane). Rent a variety of well-maintained bikes, including mountain, road, electric, hybrid and cruisers from San Juan Bike Rentals – it’ll even deliver your wheels to your hotel.

Driving is the only option in some parts of Puerto Rico

Many of Puerto Rico’s roads are in poor shape, especially after being battered by recent hurricanes. Outside the well-maintained Expressway toll roads, bumps, potholes and broken guard rails are a fact of life, along with erratic driving, animals wandering out onto the road and more cars per square mile than any other place on earth.

Despite all that, having your own wheels is the most convenient way of getting around outside the capital, and downright essential if you want to roam the countryside, visit national parks, or explore the spectacular 167-mile Ruta Panorámica that runs along the mountainous spine of the island from Mayagüez to Cayey.

Car-rental rates in San Juan are very competitive; elsewhere, not so much. A car costing US$30 or less a day in San Juan will cost US$60 or more in smaller cities and on the islands. Some companies prohibit taking rentals from the mainland to Culebra and Vieques.

All of the major international car-rental companies operate on the island, especially at the airport in San Juan. There are also local firms, particularly in smaller cities and on the islands.

Local tip: If you’re limiting your trip to San Juan, a rental car is a liability; the traffic is terrible, and parking is scarce. Use public transportation and taxis instead. Parking is a real problem in central Ponce also.

Ferries head for some islands, otherwise hire a private boat

Frequent daily ferry services serve the islands of Vieques and Culebra, departing from Ceiba’s ferry terminal a 25-minute drive south of the port of Fajardo. Up-to-date ferry schedules and tickets are available online; arrive at the terminal at least an hour before the boat departs. In January, if you’re lucky, you can sometimes spot humpback whales from the ferry. Services can be delayed and/or cancelled altogether during hurricane season (early June to late November). There are no ferries between Vieques and Culebra.

There are also no ferries to tiny, uninhabited Isla Mona – an adventure destination for divers and wildlife lovers – off Puerto Rico’s west coast. The only way to get there is by private boat with accredited operators such as Acampa Nature Adventures or Adventures Tourmarine.

Internal flights are limited and usually not worth it

Daily domestic flights connect San Juan’s Luis Muñoz Marín airport with Mayagüez on the mainland’s west coast, and with the offshore islands of Culebra and Vieques off the east coast. However, given how it takes two hours to drive from San Juan to Mayagüez and an hour to drive from San Juan to Fajardo before taking a (much cheaper) ferry to Culebra or Vieques, there is little reason to fly.

Walking is a pleasure in the historic centers of San Juan and Ponce

Old San Juan and the historical center of Ponce are wonderfully walkable and a pleasure to explore on foot. The same cannot be said about the majority of Puerto Rico’s towns and cities, with their often nonexistent sidewalks and cookie-cutter urban sprawl.

Públicos are the cheapest way to travel the island

The cheapest way to get around Puerto Rico is by públicos – public minibuses that run prescribed routes during daylight hours, either between places such as San Juan and Ponce or Mayagüez, or short-haul. Públicos are vans with the destination clearly written in the front window, leaving once they’re full. Some are busiest with commuters in the early morning and evening, while others run to remote destinations and might leave you stranded due to their infrequency. Taking a público is a great local experience, provided you don’t mind being very hot and squeezed in with a million other passengers. There is no central source of info about schedules or prices; just turn up at a público terminal or van stand near a smaller town’s central plaza, and ask around.

Taxis and Uber are readily available in larger cities

Taxis are ubiquitous in San Juan and larger cities around the island. It’s often quicker to walk out to a taxi rank or flag down a passing taxi than get through to one on the phone. Meters are hardly ever used, so always agree on the price before setting off. The one exception is San Juan: “tourist taxis” are regulated by the Puerto Rico Tourism Company, and fixed rates are determined by the zone your destination falls into.

Uber is popular, inexpensive, and covers San Juan, much of the north coast (including Arecibo and Fajardo), as well as the eastern half of the island (Caguas, Fajardo) and part of the south coast (Guayama and around). It doesn’t cover Ponce, Cabo Rojo or Mayagüez. Within San Juan, taxi lobbying groups have pushed for legislation that prohibits Uber from picking up or dropping passengers off at the airport or at certain hotels.

Accessible transportation in Puerto Rico is improving

Travel is becoming easier for those with mobility issues thanks to the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). Public transportation services (such as San Juan’s public bus and metro, plus taxis) are now required by law to be wheelchair-accessible. On top of that, there are wheelchair-accessible shuttles from the airport, while Equipos Pro Impedidos Caguas offers wheelchair-accessible vehicle rentals.

West Virginia cranks up the thrills in winter. Downhill skiing. Cross-country skiing. Ice skating. Snow tubing. Sleigh rides. You can even bounce through the forest on an ATV with snow flurries and mountain views as your backdrop. If it’s a wintertime adventure, it’s on tap in the Mountain State. 

But what makes West Virginia almost heaven? The hospitality. From Wheeling to Snowshoe to Winterplace, folks are happy to share the state’s many outdoor riches. 

Basecamps for winter adventure

Snowshoe Mountain: High-octane thrills for daredevils

From Ballhooter to Widowmaker, the names of Snowshoe’s ski runs recall Cheat Mountain’s wild days as a logging and railroad hub, when dangerous jobs and tough machines earned evocative nicknames. Today, the mountain and its thick forests are an epicenter for outdoor fun. With 60 trails and five terrain parks, plus a whopping 180 inches of annual snowfall, Snowshoe – the largest ski resort in the state – earns its regional kudos.  

What sets Snowshoe apart? Its full menu of adventures. Four-wheeler tours bounce across the backcountry while a dozen slopes stay open for night skiing. Sleigh rides, snowmobile tours, a heated outdoor waterslide, and other family-friendly adventures abound. The eight-lane tubing park goes ‘galactic’ at night, with multi-color LED lights bringing the cosmic bling. 

Cabins, condos, and lodge rooms are on offer for overnight stays. Anchoring the mountaintop Village – and just steps from its many restaurants and bars – Allegheny Springs is a convenient launchpad for post-adventure conviviality. And ski deals? The famed Ikon Pass, sold from spring through early December, offers unlimited skiing at 15 US destinations. And one last tip – the multi-colored sunsets from the western ridgeline may be your favorite memory. 

Canaan Valley Resort State Park: Where snow tubers live their best lives

Snow tubers, hold tight for an extended ride at Canaan Valley Resort, where the powdery run drops on…and on…and on. Stretching nearly a quarter-mile, the multi-lane snow tube course at Canaan Valley is the longest in the Mid-Atlantic. Best part? No trudging back up the hill for another ride. Just hop aboard the “magic carpet” for an easy glide to the top. The Allegheny Mountains and the high-elevation Canaan Valley provide the scenic backdrop for ice skaters here, while high-elevation forests cast a captivating spell along 22 miles of cross-country skiing and snowshoeing trails. For skiers and snowboarders, forty-seven trails await.

Cabins and cottages feature wood-burning fireplaces, while lodge rooms flash a bit of modern style with bright décor, striking prints, and paintings of outdoor scenes. The resort is the perfect retreat for city dwellers, as it’s only 180 miles from Washington, DC, and 145 miles from Pittsburgh.

Winterplace Ski Resort: Calling families, newbies, and night skiers

Got a passel of kids? Or a group of novice skiers? Then pull off I-77 for a no-stress day on the slopes at Winterplace in southern West Virginia. The Skiwee and Snow Explorers classes will have younger kids schussing down the 1.25-mile Panorama Trail in no time. New skiers can appreciate the mountain’s 603-foot drop, which isn’t as dizzying as the 1000 foot plunges at resorts further north. And the ten convenient lifts whisk groups to the park’s 90+ skiable acres in a flash. More than 3/4s of the trails are rated beginner or intermediate, and once you’ve got your skis under you, enjoy skiing under the stars on the 26 runs open for night skiing. Still not sure about skis? With 14 lanes, the snow tubing park is the largest in the state.

Bunk beds are available for groups at on-site cabins, but your best bet for overnight accommodations is twenty minutes north at the Resort at Glade Springs. It has a variety of rooms across its inn, manor houses, and multi-room lodges.

Timberline Mountain: Revamped hotspot for skiers and snowboarders

Still aglow following a $10 million makeover in 2020, Timberline impresses guests with a modernized lodge and two new lifts, including a high-speed six-person lift, the first in the state. The resort keeps its focus on skiers and snowboarders, with a 1000-foot vertical drop and 36 trails across 91 acres. Intermediate and expert skiers will find lots to love here, while beginners can test their skills on the Salamander. At two miles, it’s the longest run in the Southeast. Snow Squall Terrain Park welcomes beginners while Thunder Snow kicks it up a notch with sculpted jumps and technical rails. 

The Lodge has twenty rooms, but there are plenty of overnight options ten miles north in the adjoining towns of Thomas and Davis. These include the Cooper House Bed & Cocktail and its sister property, the lovably retro Billy Motel. For apres-ski, make your way to Mountain State Brewing, then see who’s playing at the Purple Fiddle. 

Oglebay: Low-key winter sports and a dazzling light show

Wheeling’s sprawling Oglebay Park is a four-season fun center. In winter, the Nutting Winter Sports Complex keeps active visitors happy with skiing and snowboarding on an adjacent slope. With one lift and a low-stress 168-foot vertical drop, the run works well for younger kids and those seeking a quick hour or two of exercise. Snow tubing is also offered, and ice skaters can take a few turns on the rink in nearby Wheeling Park. The big draw in winter? The Winter Festival of Lights. This six-mile drive across the park passes 90 attractions illuminated by more than one million lights (Nov-Jan). Stay overnight in Wilson Lodge or one of the cottages or estate houses.

Hit the trails: Snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, sledding, and ATV adventuring 

White Grass Ski Touring Center

The backdrop brings the magic at White Grass, where more than 37 miles of cross-country skiing trails unfurl along the Canaan Valley and climb forested slopes, reaching a high point of 4463 feet at Weiss Knob. The view on a perfect winter day? Snow-covered trees, the gentle Allegheny Mountains, and bright blue skies. Twelve warming shelters with snacks dot the course. Snowshoeing is permitted on the trails, as long as you stay to the side. Another high point is the on-site White Grass Cafe, a cozy natural foods cafe that’s considered a destination for dining for its sandwiches, soups, and housemade desserts. Lessons, tours, and rentals are also available.

Elk River Inn & Cabins

Touring adventures are a bit more intimate – and wild – at 40-year-old Elk River, a lodge-and-cabin complex eleven miles from Snowshoe. Tucked in the vast Monongahela National Forest, it’s an excellent alternative for outdoor adventure if you’ve had your fill of downhill skiing and busy slopes. There are 3.2 miles of trails near the lodge and another 16 miles off Hwy 150. Be ready to drop off the grid – there is no cell service on the trails. Rentals, lessons, and an area map are available on-site. Stop by for an update on trail conditions, too. 

Blackwater Falls State Park

The star attraction at this state park in the Highlands? Amber-colored cascades that drop 57 feet into a tree-lined gorge. Icicles and snow-covered rocks flank the rushing falls in winter, creating a dramatic winter scene. But it’s the sledding that brings the big wows – at least from the kids. The wide and powdery glide through the forest here stretches more than a quarter of a mile, making it the longest sled run on the east coast. The return to the top on their Magic Carpet, which rises through a narrow tunnel of trees, keeps the fun running full-time. Sleds are provided with a ticket purchase. 

Ten miles of trails are also open for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, with rentals available. Spend the night in the park’s mid-century lodge or a fully furnished cabin in the woods. For an apres sled, head to Hellbender Burritos for green chili and a hefty burrito (currently take-out only) and a Holy Citra! Double IPA at Stumptown Ales.

Hatfield-McCoy Trail System 

A thousand-mile network of all-terrain vehicle (ATV) trails are open year-round for rugged backcountry adventuring in southern West Virginia – site of the legendary Hatfield & McCoy family feud. With snow and ice, winter riding can be challenging on the most difficult trails, but there are plenty of easy routes to tackle in colder months. There are ten trail systems within the network. The Pinnacle Creek trail system has pretty views of the Appalachians, while trails in the Buffalo Mountain and Devil Anse systems swing by historic sites related to the feud and the Coal Wars. For information about permits and ATV rental locations, visit www.trailsheaven.com. There is a Hatfield & McCoy Trails Welcome Center in Julian, twenty miles south of Charleston.

Winter adventures at scenic locales

When there is snow on the ground, the Greenbrier resort in White Sulphur Springs celebrates the season with horse-drawn sleigh rides – complete with warm blankets, of course. Another fun winter activity at the historic resort? Ice skating on the new outdoor rink. The rinkside fire pit will warm you up after that last triple-axel. Sleigh rides and the ice-skating rink are open to guests and the public.

Cross-country skiers searching for grand views can explore the woodsy hiking trails at Pipestem Resort State Park then unwind on-site at McKeever Lodge or one of the 26 cabins – equipped with wifi and fireplaces. The lodge overlooks the south rim of the Bluestone River Gorge and is located 35 miles south of Beckley. Fans of winter hiking can follow eight miles of trails in nearby Bluestone State Park then get cozy inside one of the park’s fourteen year-round cabins. All are fully furnished and feature modern kitchens and stone fireplaces. 

The quiet winter beauty of the 78-mile Greenbrier River Trail is good for the soul. This multi-use rail trail connects the outskirts of Lewisburg with Cass, a former logging town at the base of Cheat Mountain in Pocahontas County. After a snowfall, the trail and its bridges and tunnels are a photogenic wonderland for cross-country skiers and snowshoers. Bed down at the white-columned General Lewis Inn in Lewisburg or one of the restored Company Cabins in Cass Scenic Railroad State Park.

 

France’s reputation for exceptional food is legendary. Now, there’s an extra incentive for gourmet travelers to book a trip for next year.

In a first for a country where the gastronomic meal has Unesco protection, Hauts-de-France (Upper, or Northern France), has been awarded the European Region of Gastronomy for 2023. Alongside producers, artisans and chefs showcasing their talents, visitors can expect activities and events, with workshops, food tours and festivals among the year’s projects zeroing in on cultural heritage, a circular economy and hyper-local, farm-to-fork sustainability. 

15 best things to do in France

Set above Paris like a crown, the country’s northernmost region is home to splendid Gothic-architecture-filled cities (such as Arras, Amiens, Laon and the lively capital, Lille) and wild, windswept landscapes, as well as famously welcoming, generous inhabitants. But its food scene has often been overlooked – until now. The recognition by IGCAT (International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Arts and Tourism) provides an opportunity to introduce new audiences to its seasonal produce and specialties. 

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Orchards and fields (even marshland floating market gardens) in Hauts-de-France’s agricultural heartland grow apples, pears, leeks, carrots, cauliflowers, beetroot, artichokes and the “pearl of the north”, endives, with lush pastures producing cream (including sugar-whipped Chantilly, created at its namesake chateau) and cheeses such as Maroilles (soft cow’s milk cheese with a nutty, mushroom-like flavor), Mimolette (semi-hard, orange-colored cow’s milk cheese with a fruity aroma) and Chaud Biloute (brine-washed cow’s milk cheese typically served warm and gooey from the oven). Waters teem with seafood along the luminous blue-gray Côte d’Opale (Opal Coast), framed by chalk cliffs and home to France’s most important fishing port Boulogne-sur-Mer, landing upwards of 70 different species daily, to the vast tides and wetlands (and France’s largest saffron production) of the Baie de Somme estuary.  

Culinary influences stretch beyond its borders: Hauts-de-France adjoins the English Channel and Belgium (with Luxembourg, the Netherlands and Germany nearby), bringing distinct accents to its epicurean offerings, from its renowned beer (signature dishes from the region that incorporate it include Welsh, beer-melted cheese poured over ham on toast then grilled golden and topped with a fried egg) to irresistible sweets such as palets de dames (icing-sugar-glazed cookies), gaufres (waffles) and chocolate.  

The essential guide to France’s best regions

Eat 

Michelin-starred jewels crafting exquisite, cutting-edge dishes include La Table du Connetable in Chantilly, La Grenouillère in an old La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil farmhouse, La Liégeoise on the Côte d’Opale and Haut Bonheur de la Table in pretty village Cassel. 

Earthier estaminets (traditional Flemish cafe/bistros with wooden tables and antiques) serve hearty favorites like carbonnade (braised beef slow-cooked with brown sugar, gingerbread and beer). 

The 10 best food experiences in France

Drink 

Beer’s origins here stretch back to Celtic times. Look out for award-winning breweries including Brasserie du Pays Flamand, Brasserie Castelain and Brasserie Lilloise.  

Champagne vineyards extend into Hauts-de-France’s southeast around Château-Thierry, accounting for 10% of French production.

France’s best wine regions: a guide to the finest touring routes, tastings and terroir

Stay 

Lille makes an ideal base. Linked by fast trains to Paris (50 minutes), Brussels (35 minutes) and London (90 minutes), France’s fourth-largest metropolitan area has handy road and rail connections to the rest of the region, and wide-ranging accommodations, from hip hostels (like The People) to design hotels (eg L’Arbre Voyageur) and historic splendor (L’Hermitage Gantois).

Georgina Lawton, journalist, and author of ‘Black Girls Take World’, shares her favorite spots from a recent trip to the island of Bermuda.

Bermuda was a place that, prior to this trip, felt like an elusive and exclusive fantasy location to me; a dream-like island of pink sands and crystalline waters that seemed filtered. Then a college friend moved to Bermuda for work recently, and suddenly, a trip was within my reach. I could finally see if the island was as beautiful as I had imagined. I visited in mid-October when the weather was still around 80F, and the tourist crowds had largely eased.

I usually start the day in Bermuda with…

Bermuda’s fish sandwich — an island staple. After a comfortable mid-morning flight with Jetblue from New York City, I made it my mission to hunt down the best fish sandwich on the island for brunch. I was looking for a local catch that was floured and fried and served on thick bread layered with tomatoes and tartar sauce.

Locals pointed me toward Café Olé in Hamilton, where I found exactly what I was looking for. The cafe’s take on the fish sandwich is door-stopper-sized, packed full of breaded rockfish, and served in mild-flavored raisin bread. Totally mouth-watering and incredibly filling. 

Taste the best of Bermuda’s food and drink: flavors that you shouldn’t miss

In Bermuda, you must try…

Renting a Twizzy: an electric mini car. With just two seats set tandem-style inside a four-foot-wide vehicle, getting in and out of a Twizzy can feel a bit awkward, but once you’re inside, it’s a pretty enjoyable and surprisingly smooth ride. Pay as you go or pay a flat rate of about $100 to keep the car for the whole day.

My friend and I used it to whizz between the main beaches — and received several waves from other drivers doing the same thing. Parking and electric charging points for Twizzy cars are easy to come by. 

The top spot for dinner and drinks in Bermuda is…

Pearl, a sushi restaurant in Hamilton. With terrace views of Hamilton harbor, Japanese-trained chefs, and an extensive sake menu, Pearl feels like an occasion: a fabulous date spot or special place to treat a friend.

Fresh fish is everywhere in Bermuda, and at Pearl, it comes in the form of creatively prepared sushi packed full of flavor. The sashimi practically melts in the mouth. If you’re craving maki rolls, try the crispy Kotzu Pearl, which contains lobster, crab, avocado, and spicy mayo.

The best times to visit Bermuda, from cheap winter breaks to summer sun

In Bermuda, I stayed in…

The Loren at Pink Beach, a five-star boutique hotel. Built along a hillside on Bermuda’s southeast coast, the incredibly stylish rooms at The Loren come with views of the Atlantic. A marine-themed restaurant at the hotel serves everything from crab cakes for breakfast to Bermudian fish and chips. There’s also an onsite gym and gorgeous infinity pool for when you finally manage to peel yourself from that sunlounger and a direct-access private pink-hued beach. Even though it’s fancy and considered the ‘it’ place to stay in Bermuda, the service is friendly and never feels stuffy.

I recommend booking a Phyto Aromatic Zen Harmony massage at the hotel’s spa; probably one of the best massages I’ve ever had — firm but relaxing. 

In Bermuda, I got away from the crowds by…

Sunbathing at Cooper’s Island Nature Reserve. You might have heard of Horseshoe Bay, a popular beach that attracts a steady stream of visitors year-round, but my pick for a relaxing beach day is Cooper’s Island. I found it incredibly calm and dazzlingly beautiful: home to pristine sands that are (almost) pink, unspoiled walks with rocky coves, and turquoise water that you don’t have to share with crowds of people.

9 things to do in Bermuda in between beach days

From Bermuda, you should bring back…

Outerbridge’s Original sherry pepper sauce. This is essentially the taste of Bermuda, bottled. This dark brown sauce is as piquant as a shot of alcohol. In Bermuda it’s often used as an added kick in local cocktails and to season soups, meats, and stews. 

Georgina Lawton traveled from New York City to Bermuda with JetBlue. Lonely Planet writers do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.

A strict vegan diet is no longer the major obstacle to travel it once was, as more and more tour companies are catering to vegan travelers with environmentally friendly and ethical itineraries. 

Fredessa Jaudon thinks it was fate that led her to what would become her favorite travel company. In 2016, while visiting the Sunflower Vegetarian Restaurant in Falls Church, Virginia, she pulled into a parking spot behind a car with a bumper sticker advertising “vegan adventure tours” and was immediately intrigued.

As a longtime vegan who had struggled to find satisfying meals on her travels, she noted the name and quickly discovered that VegVoyages – now called Vegan Travel Asia – was addressing the exact problem she faced, by organizing vegan group trips across Asia. She booked a Thailand tour for October 2017, and has been hooked ever since.
 
“Because of my love for travel, I knew the problems being vegan can present while traveling,” Jaudon said. “Traveling with Vegan Travel Asia takes the guesswork out of where and what is available to eat in compliance with my lifestyle.”

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What vegan travel looks like

Instead of worrying about her next meal, Jaudon spent her Thailand trip sampling delicious curries and learning vegan recipes in a class led by Thai chef May Kaidee. She has since traveled to Indonesia, Sri Lanka and India with the same company. However, while food choices are crucial on these travels, Jaudon says it’s about more than diet.

On her trips around Asia, Jaudon has also taken part in community projects, including volunteering with an animal rescue organization in Rajasthan, releasing sea turtle hatchlings into the ocean in Bali, and helping clean beaches in Sri Lanka. She plans to visit Laos and Cambodia with Vegan Travel Asia later this year.

An expanding market

Vegans and vegetarians are still a global minority, but their numbers are rising as these formerly fringe diets have become more mainstream. One study estimated that the vegan food market will be worth $65.4 billion by 2030, up from $26.83 billion in 2021.

As the popularity of veganism and related lifestyle choices grows, so does its influence on the travel industry. More and more travel companies, hotels and destinations are catering to those looking for plant-based meals on their travels, and some are expanding beyond dietary needs to include ethical activities and a focus on local vegan food traditions.

Tour operator Intrepid Travel began offering vegan food adventures in 2018 and the company announced in 2022 that all their food trips will include at least one plant-based experience. As part of their South Korea Food Adventure, for example, travelers stay overnight in a monastery in Gyeongju, sampling traditional Buddhist plant-based dishes such as lettuce stalk kimchi, ash pepper pancakes with chili paste and rice wrapped in lotus leaves.

Responsible Travel, another tour operator with a focus on ethical practices, also promotes vegan and vegetarian holidays. Some of their trips include vegan food on request, while others such as a 6-day vegan holiday in Greece include cooking classes and foraging for seasonal and wild foods.

Looking for hotel options that cater to vegan diets? There are resources for that too. Vegan Welcome lists vegan-friendly hotels in 20 countries, while Vegvisits is a home-sharing platform with vegan and vegetarian hosts across 80-plus countries.

“Twenty years ago there was one [vegan] tour operator,” said Donna Zeigfinger, owner of Green Earth Travel, a long-established vegan and eco-travel agency, and co-founder of a vegan travel summit. “Now there’s at least 10 of them or more. I talked to a guy yesterday who is starting vegan tours in Iceland, which to me is the last place, because that’s been the hardest for vegans.”

Zeigfinger founded her US-based travel agency in 1997 in response to what she saw as a gaping hole in the travel space. Green Earth Travel builds customized itineraries for vegan and vegetarian vacations, collaborates with vegan operators on trips and arranges vegan-friendly packaged tours.

Enabling ethical travel

Part of the shift towards vegan-friendly travel has been driven by travelers seeking ethical experiences. A 2020 GlobalData survey found that 76% of over 5700 global respondents said they were influenced by how ethical, environmentally friendly or socially responsible a product or service is.

As recently as 2019, only 46 percent of respondents said they’d actively buy products that were better for the environment or animal-friendly. This all suggests a shift in consumer perceptions during the pandemic, with growing numbers of people being open to making eco-friendly choices. For many, those ethical choices start with what they eat, given meat production’s outsized impact on the environment.

As a vegan for almost 40 years, Donna Zeigfinger says she remembers going to Spain in 2000 and finding almost nothing she could eat. On visits to Germany in the mid-1980s, she ate in Chinese restaurants as she couldn’t find any other vegan food. Now, she says, there is a vegan option in most restaurants. At the same time, the perception of vegan travelers has also changed. “They are not just granola travelers,” she said. “They are your average traveler from all across the board.”

Zeigfinger says she started the business to help her clients “not starve to death while they were on vacation.” But now she also tries to help educate people about vegan and animal cruelty-free travel, which can include everything from ensuring hotels don’t use feather pillows or toiletries tested on animals to why travelers should avoid zoos. Zeigfinger is now working with numerous organizations to launch a Vegan Travel Association by next year.

Engaging with communities

Fredessa Jaudon’s favorite tour operator, Vegan Travel Asia, focuses on much more than what’s on travelers’ plates. As well as offering vegan tours across Asia, the company invests 50 percent of its profits in local communities through environmental and social impact programs.
 
“The goal has always been to try to help people overcome cultural barriers and have a better understanding of each other, the environment, the planet, and our relation and coexistence with each other within it,” said Zac Lovas, one of the group’s five co-founders, based in Jakarta, Indonesia.

Even in places where meat plays a big role in the diet, Vegan Travel Asia works with communities they will be visiting to arrange vegan dishes as part of its trip planning process. Collaborating with home chefs in their kitchens, listening to their family stories and connections to each dish, they work together to update favorite recipes using local vegan ingredients.

Near the village of Lumban Silintong in North Sumatra, Indonesia, for instance, the company worked with the head of the village and local families to tweak the fish dish arsik, replacing the carp meat with tofu and bamboo shoots. Similarly, the savory stew saksang was reinvented using potatoes, eggplant and fried tempeh instead of pork. For both dishes, meat broth was replaced with mushroom and vegetable broth.

Since other ingredients, such as lemongrass, galangal, and candlenuts, remained the same, the taste was similar to the original versions, and as with all their veganized dishes, cooks in each household signed off on the final recipes. Often, Lovas says, the communities continue to use the new recipes. “It does become like a cultural exchange,” he said.

Still, Lovas emphasizes that traveling responsibly is about more than just what you eat. While vegan tourism might appeal to travelers looking to satisfy their dietary needs while on the road, he also thinks these trips provide an opportunity to give back and to more effectively engage with local communities.

“I just hope that as the industry grows it becomes more based on ‘we’ travel than ‘me’ travel,” he said. “It has to be beneficial for local communities, not just a traveler.”

Prague is no longer the budget city break it used to be. While the beer remains refreshingly cheap, big-ticket attractions such as St Vitus Cathedral, Strahov Library and the Prague Jewish Museum now require visitors to dig deeper into their pockets.

Luckily, there’s still plenty to enjoy in the Czech capital for travelers on a budget – or, in fact, for travelers with no budget at all. Here’s our pick of the very best things to do in Prague for free.

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1. Soak up the vibes on the Charles Bridge

It may be one of Prague’s most iconic attractions, but the 650-year-old Charles Bridge doesn’t cost a penny to cross. Stroll along its stone cobbles to admire rows of baroque statues, enjoy armies of buskers and artists, and take in the spectacular spires and domes on both sides of the river.

Planning Tip: For a great view of the full 500m (1640ft) span of the stone-arch bridge, head to the riverbank behind the Franz Kafka Museum.

2. Gaze at the Astronomical Clock

Another famous city landmark, the Astronomical Clock, is one of the most popular free things to do in Prague – yet its on-the-hour procession of mechanical figures leaves some tourists a little underwhelmed. So instead, come here between showtimes for a closer look at the clock itself.

As well as being intricately beautiful and rich in symbolism, the two clock faces are also fonts of information. They tell you the time (look for the point where the golden hand meets the Roman numerals), the day and month of the year, the zodiac sign, the times of sunset and sunrise, the current phase of the moon and so much more. Not bad for a clock first installed in 1410.

3. Tour David Černý’s public artworks

When it comes to provocative modern art in Prague, one sculptor reigns supreme: David Černý. The artist is perhaps best known for his work Entropa, a huge sculpture depicting EU states as crude stereotypes (like France on strike and Romania as a Dracula theme park), which, after causing just the smallest amount of controversy, is no longer on display. However, many of the artist’s other works dot the streets of Prague, and – to make things even sweeter – are completely free to enjoy.

Planning Tip: Highlights include Kůň, in the middle of the Lucerna Palace shopping arcade, which depicts a lifeless, upside-down horse ridden by an inattentive King Wenceslas; K, a gigantic rotating metal bust of Prague writer Franz Kafka, located above Národní třída metro station; and Miminka, a series of faceless babies crawling up Žižkov’s TV Tower. You can also find some ground-level miminka (babies) on the small river island of Kampa.

4. Climb Petřín hill for fantastic city views

Topped by what looks like a pint-sized Eiffel Tower, Petřín hill is one of Prague’s most popular playgrounds. Come for the woodland walkways, blooming rose gardens and gorgeous views of the city below – and don’t miss the Hunger Wall, a structure built in 1362 that takes its name from the claim the wall was, purportedly, built not for strategic value, but as a means to provide income to Prague’s starving population following a famine.

Planning Tip: You can hike up and down Petřín or simply hop on the 19th-century funicular; it’s part of the public transport network so a free add-on to any tram or metro journey for those with a valid one- or three-day travel pass.

5. Wander the grounds of Prague Castle for free

While it costs to visit most of Prague Castle’s lavish interiors, including St Vitus Cathedral, you are free to roam the grounds and gardens for, well, free – just remember to bring your ID to get through security. You’re also free to discover the quaint Golden Lane, where writer Franz Kafka lived for a spell, after the stalls have closed and an alluring quietness falls over the historic thoroughfare.

Planning Tip: Exploring the castle’s courtyards is best at night, as the crowds typically thin out in the early evening while the gates remain open until late.

6. Stroll the cobbles of Nový Svět Quarter

Combine your trip to Prague Castle with a wander around the “New World“. Although just a short walk northwest of the castle complex, this picturesque quarter feels like a world away, with its strollable cobblestone streets, pastel-shaded 16th-century houses and remnants of the old city walls.

Planning Tip: It’s also home to a small garden, a children’s play park and a charming little cafe.

7. Take a tour round Vyšehrad Citadel

Like Prague Castle, the Vyšehrad Citadel is perched on a hilltop, served as a former royal residence and is also dominated by an important church that overlooks the Vltava river. Unlike Prague Castle, however, it’s free to visit.

As well as exploring the exquisite Church of Sts Peter and Paul, you can walk the Citadel’s walls for fantastic views over the city, and visit the Gothic Vyšehrad Cemetery, burial place of notable Czechs like Dvořák, one of the first Czech composers to achieve global fame, and Mucha, a renowned artist who painted The Slav Epic, a series of 20 giant canvases depicting the history and mythology of the Slavic peoples (a dedicated Prague gallery is supposedly in the works to house it).

Planning Tip: In the summer, Vyšehrad has one of Prague’s best beer gardens.

8. Be dazzled by the entrance hall at Municipal House

Connected to the tall, Gothic Powder Gate that marks the entrance to the Old Town, Prague’s Municipal House is a masterpiece of art nouveau architecture. While the upstairs halls are only available by (paid) guided tour, budget-conscious travelers can still enjoy the dazzling facade, complete with grand entrance mosaic, as well as the ornate foyer for free.

Planning Tip: There’s also a chandelier-stuffed cafe here.

9. See what outfit the Infant Jesus is wearing

First brought over from Spain in 1628 and believed to possess miraculous healing powers, the Infant Jesus remains a site of pilgrimage for Christians – and a great thing to see on a Sunday.

The 47cm-tall (19 inch) waxwork of baby Jesus is adorned in a vast and ever-changing array of colorful costumes to rival Brussels’ Manneken Pis. You will find the statue, plus a free museum showcasing many of its most elaborate frocks, in Malá Strana’s Church of Our Lady Victorious.

10. Follow the paths in Letná Gardens for panoramic views

Prague has a high number of green spaces for a big city, from the lake-filled Stromovka Park to the statue-lined Wallenstein Garden. But for a mix of winding paths, beer gardens and wide open spaces, it’s hard to beat Letná Gardens.

Climb the steep staircase from the Čechův Most tram stop for a slow-reveal of a remarkable Prague panorama, taking in the Vltava River, its bridges and the city’s rooftops. At the top, you’ll come across a giant plinth that once supported a colossal statue of Stalin (which was destroyed by dynamite). Today, a striking 75ft (23m) metronome (a machine that makes an audible click every second or so) stands in its place; an ode to that age-old adage: in time, all things pass.

11. Admire the interiors of Týn Church

The Czech Republic is among the most secular countries on earth, yet its capital is jam-packed with majestic churches from centuries past – and many are free to enter (though donations will be gratefully received). One of the most photographed is the Church of Our Lady Before Týn, a twin-spired Gothic masterpiece looming over the Old Town Square.

Step inside to explore a bold baroque interior, including a 17th-century altar and the tomb of pioneering Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe, who is also notable for sporting an artificial nose throughout most of his life (his original sniffer being partially decapitated in a sword duel with a contemporary over who was the better mathematician).

12. Stroll up Vítkov Hill

While a trip up the futuristic masterpiece/looming eyesore (delete as appropriate) TV Tower will set you back a pretty penny, similarly sweeping vistas over Žižkov and Karlín can be enjoyed from the nearby Vítkov Hill. The National Monument may have an entrance fee, but it costs you nothing to gaze up at the mammoth Jan Žižka statue or to stroll the tree-shaded hilltop paths.