Mountaineer Rick Ridgeway spent five decades traveling to uncharted regions, conquering the world’s most treacherous mountains, sometimes before anyone else. Here are his keys to achieving peak performance. — As told to Charles Thorp
Seek Inspiration
I’ve always had a passion for books, and I’ve been a big reader since I was a boy. It’s had a profound effect on my life on multiple occasions and initially inspired me to become a climber. I read a National Geographic story about the first American to climb Mount Everest and wanted to be like him. That guy was Jim Whittaker, and little did I know he’d be the leader of our first American ascent of K2 in ’78. It was around the time of my own K2 ascent when another book came out called The Snow Leopard. The naturalist George Schaller, who’s the main character, become my mentor and one of my best friends. I set up an expedition with Galen Rowell, Conrad Anker, and Jimmy Chin to find the birthing ground of the chiru, an endangered Tibetan antelope, to supported George’s research and help protect the animal. It was the most meaningful trip of my life. My home has a room where I’m completely surrounded by books, including the first one I bought when learning to climb called Freedom of the Hills. That room is one of my favorite places to be.
I don’t remember any of my friends who were climbing back in the ‘60s or ‘70s ever going to a gym. None of us had a training regimen. We just climbed all the time and went on long hikes to get to the mountains before expeditions. The on-foot approaches to the landmark climbs people are familiar with were a lot longer than they are now. That was our bootcamp experience for whatever mountain we were climbing, whether it was hiking from Kathmandu to Everest or up to K2. I did start going into the gym in the ‘80s, but never doing anything too crazy. I learned the benefit of doing low weight with high repetition to keep the lean mass I needed. I do that about three times a week these days. I always valued fitness, even as a teenager. I got in shape in high school and never fell out of it. I weigh exactly the same as I did back then, 157 pounds. I know to some it may sound like a brag, but I’m proud of that fact. That commitment to physical health is one that’s served me well over the years.
I got in shape in high school and never fell out of it.
Better to Bend Than Break
Over 20 years ago, my hips were making problems for me, and causing a terrible amount of discomfort. It was only getting worse over time. They were getting so bad I was having trouble sleeping because of the pain. I met with a doctor who tried to advise me to get a hip transplant while I was still “young and strong,” in his words. I was in my 50s at the time. I was still worried about what the recovery and complications could be. That’s when I discovered yoga through Yvon Chouinard. Shortly after that I met Gerry Lopez. Getting to know Gerry had a big effect on me, because I could see how beneficial yoga was to maintaining world-class surfing skills at an older age. It seemed like he was getting better every month, and he attributed it to yoga. I was working at Patagonia when I started my practice, and I would go to the classes we had at the office. I started to see the benefits pretty quickly and was able to avoid having the surgery. Being flexible and limber while staying strong is crucial at my age. I’ve created my own routine over the years that I do on my mat at home. I do it around three times a week. I like not having to bring my phone out for it or look at any videos. It’s a good time for me to find peace. I do it in the afternoon, because I can clear my head of noise and finish my day in a better mindset.
I started trail running in my early 20s, and it’s still one of my favorite activities. I first began when I was traveling a lot for work, because it seemed like an easy way to get outdoors and stay in shape no matter where I was in the world. All I needed was a pair of shoes. These days I do most of my running at home in Ojai. I live right next to Los Padres National Forest. There’s an incredible network of trails right off my backyard. I’ve been on those trails every day this week, but I have to be careful. This morning my foot came about eight inches away from a rattler. I have to make sure I’m always on the lookout. Over the years I’ve become a fan of the feel and performance of HOKA’s trail running shoes. I plan on staying on the trail as long as possible.
Find Your Base of Operations
I was always a surfer as much as I was a climber—an ocean and a mountain person. So, it was important for me to live somewhere I could do it all. I stayed in Malibu in the ‘70s, but over time was disenchanted with the number of posers. I started visiting the Ventura and Santa Barbara area to surf when I first met Yvon Chouinard, who I would later work with at Patagonia. Eventually we started climbing around there and I discovered it was a much better fit for me personally. I asked Yvon to keep his ear to the wind for a place I could call home. It didn’t take him long to find one, and I moved a few doors down from his place. This was back in the late ‘70s, so I guess I qualify for a local at this point. Over the course of my career I estimate that I’ve slept about five years of my life in tents, and I can say it’s nice living somewhere you’re happy to come back to. I’ve gotten just as much enjoyment going out to the wild areas in my backyard as I have in the farthest reaches of the world.
When it comes to a great back workout, you need to ensure you include exercises that attack all the muscles: namely the deltoids, traps, lats, and rhomboids. You may think you need a cable machine along with barbells and dumbbells to do all that. But you don’t. There are tons of great bodyweight back exercises that you can do right in your own living room, with minimal equipment.
The 10 exercises below, chosen by Marc Megna of Anatomy at 1220 in Miami Beach, FL, will get you started. To do them, all you’ll need is a suspension trainer and a pullup bar (many of the moves, though, require no equipment at all).
You can do all of these exercises together as part of one cohesive best-ever bodyweight back workout, or you can pick a few of your favorites and mix them into your existing routine. Look out for Megna’s pro tips sprinkled throughout the descriptions to maximize every movement.
After a week of heavy fighting against Ukrainian forces in and around Bucha, the Russian military captured the strategic town on the outskirts of Ukrainian capital Kyiv on March 4, 2022. The next day, another cadre of uniformed invaders arrived, older than the typical teenage Russian conscripts, and the noncombat killings began in earnest. It was obvious to besieged locals that these were not regular soldiers. They appeared to act autonomously, and more viciously.
At first, the bloodshed was indiscriminate. A middle-aged man riding his bicycle was shot in the back for sport, a woman returning from the grocery was cut down by a burst of automatic fire. Unarmed residents were robbed at checkpoints and then murdered. Gunfire was heard at all hours, as were the screams. Bodies were left where they fell as warnings. Soon, the carnage grew even more sadistic, and systematic. Survivors recall how these “soldiers” raided apartment blocks to round up males under 50 years of age, and then bound and executed them. Women were raped and tortured as the armed men laughed and drank. Some corpses were set on fire. Bucha residents, at great peril to themselves, dug hasty graves for other victims, their friends and neighbors, when the Russians weren’t watching.
When Ukrainian forces liberated Bucha on April 1, they entered a ghost town littered with rubble and smoldering vehicles. The dead were everywhere. Bodies were strewn for half a mile along Yablosnka Street in the southern part of town. By conservative estimates, more than 400 men, women and children had been murdered.
That massacre is yet another landmark of horror perpetrated by the notorious Wagner Group, a mercenary organization serving Moscow’s global sphere of influence—from the steppes of Ukraine to the deserts of Syria to the killing fields of Africa. Mysterious and ruthless, the Wagner Group has become a much-feared arm of the Russian regime. And those with knowledge of Kremlin machinations know they function as Putin’s private army.
Russian oligarch Yevgeny Viktorovich Prigozhin, 61, is widely believed to be the owner of the business enterprise that is the Wagner Group. Born in Leningrad (now St. Petersburg), the eruptive Prigozhin grew up a streetwise student of the Soviet Union’s rampant corruption. He spent nine years in prison for theft and robbery before being released into the tumultuous pivot of Russian history when the Iron Curtain crumbled from communism to nepotistic capitalism. The Soviet penal system provided a master’s degree for opportunists who were savvy and ruthless enough to stake their claim amid the chaos.
Starting with little, Prigozhin amassed a fortune. He grew a humble hot dog business into a supermarket franchise, and used the proceeds to buy casinos. His St. Petersburg restaurant, The New Island, was a favorite of the city’s rich and notorious—including many former KGB officers. One of his VIPs was rising political star Vladimir Putin. Prigozhin became known as “Putin’s chef,” and with his shaved head and $5,000 suits, looked like a Hollywood stereotype of a Russian henchman.
When Putin assumed power in 2000, the country’s spoils were divvied among such men, who adhered to a simple rule: As long as Putin is in power, this new breed of oligarchs are allowed to rake in untold fortunes, but their survival hangs by a thin wire of absolute loyalty—and financial servitude—to the
Russian president.
Illustration by The Sporting Press
Prigozhin was handed lucrative catering contracts for the nation’s schools and military. Those contracts made him a billionaire, and he used the profits to launch even more businesses, including firms specializing in information, such as Internet Research Agency, a nefarious troll farm of some of the most capable Russian hackers. (Well before punishments were leveled at Russia for invading Ukraine, he was already under numerous sanctions by the U.S. Treasury Department for cyber interference in the 2016 U.S. elections.)
In 2014, two years into Putin’s third term as Russian president, Prigozhin invested in a shadowy mercenary firm founded by Dmitry Utkin, a neo-Nazi and former GRU (Russian military intelligence) officer who idolizes Adolph Hitler. Utkin is a veteran of two bloody wars against separatists in Chechnya—including house-to-house battles in Grozny—and commanded a Spetsnaz commando formation. He left in 2013 as a lieutenant colonel, but did not spend his retirement fishing. He went to work as an enforcer-for-hire for Slavonic Corps, a Russian private security company contracted by Syrian president Bashar al-Assad’s regime to recapture oil fields seized by ISIS and punish enemies in that country’s ugly civil war. Utkin’s radio call sign was “Wagner,” a reference to Hitler’s favorite composer. (Ironic, given Putin’s flimsy “denazification” rationale for invading Ukraine.)
Prigozhin’s deep pockets lent stature to Utkin’s private-army enterprise, and, with Putin’s approval, it became Private Military Company Wagner.
Though Slavonic Corps was registered in Hong Kong, there are no official corporate records for the Wagner Group. Foreign Policy wrote, “[Wagner] has become a shorthand, bound up in mythology, [a] network of companies and groups of mercenaries that Western governments regard to be closely enmeshed with the Russian state.” In fact, according to Marc Polymeropoulos, a retired clandestine officer and author of Clarity in Crisis: Leadership Lessons from the CIA, “the Wagner Group is the paramilitary arm of Russian military intelligence.” In other words, they are the contractors and subcontractors of Putin’s will.
Mercenaries actually are outlawed under Russian law, but companies specializing in trigger pullers willing to risk their lives and commit atrocities for big paydays are an open secret. They’re deemed necessary to protect criminal territories and businesses controlled by the oligarchs who serve Putin’s interests. According to the Center for Strategic and International Studies, the Wagner Group follows the trend of the “privatization of state violence” in Russia.
At first, like the Western private military companies that emerged during the wars in Afghanistan and Iraq (think: Blackwater), the Wagner Group hired elite-unit veterans with combat experience who were paid as much as $3,700 a month—CEO money in Russia—to put their skills to ruthlessness ends. Further tying the knot to the Kremlin, the Russian Ministry of Defense provided Wagner with part of a GRU and special-forces base in the town of Molkino in southern Russia. The base includes barracks, shooting ranges and other installations needed to prepare an army for war. The GRU also provided Wagner with assault rifles and rocket-propelled grenades. Those trained at the base ranged from seasoned combat veterans to wannabes who had never fired a weapon before.
According to a Wagner fighter interviewed by the BBC, there are three types of people attracted to joining the group. The first is the classic soldier of fortune, someone who craves adventure, combat pay, heavy drinking and fast women. The second is the lost soul resigned to the realization that fighting and killing is the only conceivable way he can earn a living. And the last category is what the operator termed the “romantic,” people who are determined to serve their country and in the process get a jolt of adrenaline and a paycheck.
Interviewed in silhouette by Britain’s Sky News, a former Wagner operative named “Alexander” said, “The training was quite intense. We were taught how to aim, use arms, artillery, rifles, missiles, tanks and APCs.” Alexander had no military experience before entering the gates of the Molkino camp. He received a bonus of 250,000 rubles (about $4,000) as an incentive to stay on. A trigger puller, even a green rookie, could earn as much as $16,000 for a three-month tour—approximately a full year’s average salary in Russia.
Wagner units were first noticed in 2014 in eastern Ukraine. The hired mercenaries joined Russian conventional forces and their separatist allies in the annexation of Crimea, and then terrorized civilians in the Donbas region, committing acts of murder and pillage designed to intimidate Ukrainian soldiers and civilians into surrender. The Ukrainians dubbed this new threat “the little green men.”
WAGNER RECRUITS RANGE FROM COMBAT VETS TO WANNABES WHO HAVE NEVER FIRED A WEAPON.
A reputation for brutality became a marketing bonanza. Wagner’s services were soon in demand in the Middle East, most notably in the internecine slaughter of the Syrian civil war to support Russian-backed President Bashar al-Assad. According to intelligence estimates, the Wagner Group assembled close to 5,000 soldiers of fortune for Syria. They arrived in August 2015 aboard the same Antonov and Ilyushin transport aircraft as regular Russian forces, touching down at the sprawling Khmeimim Air Base near the Latakia coast. The military bombed anti-government targets, then Wagner fighters participated in clearing Syria’s cities in house-to-house fighting, dirty work requiring heavy hands, brutal tactics and plausible deniability. Civilians were frequently caught in the crossfire, and sometimes made examples of. The bodies of those killed were left in the desert or cremated; families received payouts to avoid political fallout.
Syria was a windfall for Prigozhin. He cut lucrative energy contracts with the Assad regime, earning a whopping 25 percent stake in Syrian oil fields liberated and protected by his men. Tribute, of course, was kicked up to Putin’s secret bank accounts. “Mike,” a Kurdish liaison officer with U.S. and coalition units in Iraq and Syria, once commented, “The Russians were nothing more than bandits, seeing what they could steal and not letting anything get in their way. Soldiers do not kill women and children, they do not steal. Only criminals do that.”
Human rights groups also took notice of Wagner and accused its personnel of perpetrating war crimes wherever they were deployed. But for Putin’s purposes, the mercenaries were deniable and cost effective.
The Wagner Group does not employ a public affairs officer to elaborate on its missions. Its employees are forbidden from giving interviews. As such, the Kremlin can always issue a boilerplate shrug that it had no knowledge of their presence in a war zone. But most believe that there exists no daylight between Wagner and the Kremlin. John Sipher, a 28-year veteran of the CIA’s National Clandestine Service, says, “The Wagner Group’s operations are designed to provide Moscow with plausible deniability, but the opposite is true. They work closely with the GRU, the SVR foreign espionage service and the FSB, the post-Soviet KGB. They are irrefutable organs of the Russian state. Their deniability is purely implausible.”
Wagner puts boots on the ground wherever natural resources and pro-Putin regimes with tenuous security situations need extra tactical muscle. Wagner units fought government forces in Libya. They deployed to the Central African Republic, Sudan and Madagascar. Wagner even has been detected in the Americas, in oil-rich Venezuela, supporting the narco-regime of President Nicolás Maduro. Wherever they are sent, civilians are tortured, raped and murdered. Moscow denies, but in the age of smartphones, hard evidence that Russian nationals are implicated in horrific atrocities is impossible to mask.
So, too, was the only conventional battle that has occurred between Wagner operatives and the U.S. military. On Feb. 7, 2018, approximately 600 Wagner fighters, supported by tanks and artillery, attacked a Syrian Democratic Forces position near Deir Ez-Zor in the eastern stretch of the desert near the Iraqi frontier. The SDF contingent, mainly Kurdish fighters, was bolstered by elements of the U.S. Joint Special Operations Command, including operators from Delta. AC-130 gunships unleashed airborne fire support from thousands of feet above the desert to assist the Americans and Kurds. What was not obliterated by air was left for the Delta operators to sort out on the ground. More than 300 Wagner Group fighters reportedly were killed in the lopsided battle. U.S. Defense Secretary James Mattis would tell Congress, “I ordered their annihilation.”
Russia’s state-controlled media made no mention of the engagement, of course. Foreign Minister Sergei Lavrov dismissed the reports as “fake news.” The nameless mercenaries were left to rot where they were killed. There were no military funerals, only small payouts delivered to their next of kin, as per their contracts.
The myth of the Wagner fighter as some sort of Russian Rambo was debunked in the Syrian desert that day. “Killing women and children was a lot easier than fighting a disciplined and capable military opponent,” says Polymeropoulos. “But owning a reputation for killing civilians is precisely why we see Wagner mercenaries in Ukraine today. Their presence alongside Russian conscript forces is designed to terrorize an occupied population.”
Putin likely hoped that his proxy private army would not be needed in Ukraine at all. Moscow designed the war to be fast, furious and finished before the West could respond. The massive Russian blitzkrieg would overwhelm Ukraine’s military, murder President Volodymyr Zelensky and install and a pro-Putin puppet regime in Kyiv. Putin’s generals assessed that the Ukrainian capital would be seized within three days and the country pacified within a week. The Pentagon, in congressional testimony offered by Defense Intelligence Agency director Lieutenant General Scott Berrier, concurred.
But best-laid plans did not calculate the furious defiance of the Ukrainian people and Zelensky becoming a modern Winston Churchill. Putin also misjudged NATO’s resolve. Russia’s conscript army was soon stalled, and forced to lay siege to a nation of more than 40 million inhabitants. It’s Russia’s way of war: Unleash overwhelming firepower that has little regard for international law and civilian casualties, and if that fails, deploy a more covert attack that, as John le Carré once wrote, “obliterates, punishes and discourages.” It is a scenario tailor-made for the Wagner Group.
WHEREVER THE WAGNER GROUP IS SENT, CIVILIANS ARE TORTURED, RAPED AND MURDERED.
Wagner mercenaries were first deployed to the separatist enclaves of Donetsk and Luhansk to help crush the will of the pro-Ukrainian population. But as the initial Russian offensive stuttered into a quagmire, heavily armed men sporting Wagner patches were sent in to join—and lead—the military effort elsewhere. They were not only ruthless—always an effective tactic in beating down an occupied population—they were more dependable than the green Russian troops thrust into a conflict they did not want or understand.
A significant number of the armed men on Wagner’s payroll are Serbs, a Slavic ethnic group with a long history of executing wars of ethnic and religious butchery. Murals have appeared in Belgrade applauding the actions of Wagner fighters in Ukraine. But Wagner leaders also pulled personnel from other global hot spots and summoned violence-tested veterans. Chechens arrived on the battlefield, as did Libyans and Africans—a cheaper alternative to the Russian soldiers of fortune.
The Wall Street Journal reported that the Bundesnachrichtendienst, Germany’s foreign intelligence service, intercepted secret electronic communications between Wagner Group operatives solidifying what NATO espionage services already suspected: Russian mercenaries played a dominant role in the Bucha massacre.
But just a few days into Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, another Wagner Group cadre also was still hard at work in Africa, propping up Mali’s military junta leader, who is reliably pro-Moscow and can protect Russia’s interests in the resource-rich region. On March 27, the mercenaries entered Moura, a rural hamlet that was not playing along. Some arrived on trucks and others were choppered in via military helicopters. They advanced quickly through the dirt streets, raiding the mosque in search of Islamic insurgents, pulling men from their homes. Those unlucky enough to be captured were beaten, bound and marched four miles to the banks of the Niger River. By the time the mercenaries left four days later, more than 300 corpses lay rotting in the muddy water. Nearly all of the dead were civilians.
Prigozhin and Utkin already have been sanctioned by the European Union for their Wagner roles. There is talk in Congress and in the E.U. of classifying the Wagner Group as a designated terrorist organization, a legal move that would allow nations greater leeway in bringing members to justice. To that end, U.S. and other NATO intelligence services are already gathering evidence to prosecute Russian soldiers—and soldiers-for-hire—in war-crime tribunals that most certainly will follow the eventual cessation of hostilities in Ukraine. No doubt some of that bloody account of atrocities will be laid at the feet of Wagner Group fighters. Hopefully, the charges also will extend to their paymasters, even at the highest level.
Samuel M. Katz has written more than 20 books on counterterrorism and special operations. His latest, No Shadows in the Desert, covers the spies who carried out the secret espionage campaign to eliminate the heads of ISIS.
Tinie is a man of many talents. You may know him from his performance from the back of a Rolls-Royce Phantom Drophead Coupe at the closing ceremonies of the London Olympics in 2012. Or you may have heard one of his musical collaborations with Swedish House Mafia, Rita Ora, and Labrinth, among others. The award-winning rapper has six UK number one singles, more than any other UK rap artist in history. But his range extends beyond music. Tinie started his own menswear label What We Wear and created Raps, a fried chicken and wraps delivery restaurant in London. In addition, his television show Extraordinary Extensions, which explores home additions is coming back for a second series in 2022.
Ben Sherman
The one thread that weaves through all of Tinie’s ventures—music, television, and business—is his immeasurable sense of style. It came as no surprise when he was named Best Dressed at GQ’s Man of the Year awards in 2012.
Tinie x Ben Sherman
Tinie’s sense of style is on display in a global advertising campaign for the iconic menswear brand Ben Sherman. Wearing pieces from Ben Sherman’s Autumn/Winter collection for 2022, Tinie cuts a sharp figure.
“Ben Sherman has always been a staple in British culture,” Tinie says. “It was great to get the call to front the AW22 Menswear campaign. I enjoyed collaborating and shooting with the team, and it was great to reconnect with a brand that made such an impression on me coming up”.
Ben Sherman
The campaign is connected to the Ben Sherman Global Artist Foundry, a platform where music, art, and fashion intersect. The foundry is a support system for musicians, artists, and creatives at every level—from unsigned to well-established. Like Tinie, the original Ben Sherman was also a man of style. Born Arthur Benjamin Sugarman, Ben Sherman launched his own clothing line in 1963. The oxford cloth Ben Sherman shirt he created was revolutionary at the time and remains an iconic style staple today.
Hiking a high-altitude trail is always a challenge. As the mile count grows and you climb higher, your breath gets shallower, your steps become slower, and your body grows more fatigued. But once you get the chance to pause, breathe crisp mountain air, and look around you, the journey’s hardships start to fade. Above the tree line and at higher altitudes, you gain a new perspective on your surroundings—and on life overall.
A memorable adventure spent day-hiking in the high country starts with packing gear that will stand the test of time. A heritage brand known for classic hiking staples, Columbia Sportswear recently introduced its Silver Ridge Utility Collection, and it’s an ideal choice for a backcountry trip. The collection includes four garments crafted with recycled materials and packed with function to keep you comfortable, both on and off the trail. Forget about hauling a dresser’s worth of clothes—these essentials are the foundation for a day (or multiple days) of hiking anywhere in the country.
Columbia Silver Ridge Utility Lite LongsleeveCourtesy Image
The Utility Lite Longsleeve and Utility Lite Plaid Longsleeve feature snap buttons at the collar—which makes them easy to open up when conditions get hot—and Omni-Shade UPF 50 sun protection, so you won’t have to slather your whole body in sunscreen. They also come with double chest pockets for convenient storage, they’re made with durable recycled polyester fabric, and they have a timeless silhouette for a laid-back look.
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The Utility Pant is made with a moisture wicking, two-way stretch fabric that moves with you, and it also comes with an integrated removable belt for a snug fit and four pockets to keep your on-trail essentials close at hand. Expecting hot weather? Reach for the Utility Convertible Pant, which turns into a pair of classic shorts just by zipping off the pant legs.
Once you’ve packed the right gear for your trip, you’re ready to choose a trail. Below, we’ve compiled a list of some of the best trails for backpacking and day-hiking—from the West Coast to the East Coast—to add to your bucket list. Whether you’re an experienced backpacker or you’re just starting out, there’s something for you here: Tackle the full trail length or split them up into sections for more approachable hikes. Either way, you’ll get a true backcountry challenge and incredible views to boot.
Harry Laub/imageBROKER / Shutterstock
1. John Muir Trail in California
One of the most iconic routes in the world, the John Muir Trail (its original native name is Nüümü Poyo) stretches 211 miles through the Sierra Nevada mountain range in California. The trail passes through Yosemite, Kings Canyon, and Sequoia National Parks and passes through some of the world’s finest mountain scenery along the way. Hikers can expect towering granite cliffs, steep climbs, high altitudes, lush meadows, backcountry lakes, and ancient forests.
When you don’t have three weeks to spare for the full thru-hike, section hiking the trail is a more accessible alternative for experiencing this incredible route. The best segments for spending a few nights in the wild include Yosemite Valley to Tuolumne Meadows (about 20 miles) or Kearsarge to Whitney Portal (about 49 miles).
The Day Trip Mod: Visit one of the main destinations along the route, such as the impressive Devil’s Postpile National Monument or Sequoia National Park. Find parking nearby and follow the trail for a few miles for an out-and-back day excursion.
Jim Cole/AP
2. Presidential Traverse in New Hampshire
Although it’s one the shorter routes on this list, the Presidential Traverse is just as challenging and rewarding as the longer hikes. For about 20 miles, this classic New England trail ascends and descends some of New Hampshire’s highest peaks. The trip is most enjoyable when completed over two or three nights, and you’ll have the option to stay at Appalachian Mountain Club huts along the way.
The White Mountains are notorious for strenuous conditions made more difficult by bad weather, but don’t get discouraged: With little tree coverage, the views of the valleys and surrounding mountains are constantly panoramic.
The Day Trip Mod: For a doable day hike, try one or two of the peaks along the route, such as a 7.5-mile loop of Mt. Clay and Mt. Jefferson. The trail gains 3,600 feet and features panoramic views of the surrounding area.
Quinn Calder / Shutterstock
3. Uinta Highline Trail in Utah
The Uinta Highline Trail stays above 10,000 feet for the majority of its 104 miles, which makes it the crème de la crème of Utah hiking. This point-to-point trail follows the Uinta Mountains from Mirror Lake to a forest service road north of Vernal, UT, and it covers over 16,000 feet of elevation gain. Along the way, you’ll pass through rock scrambles, hike over gentle meadows speckled with wildflowers, and skirt stunning lakes and creeks. This trail is a serious challenge, so it’s best to spend 10 days hiking 10-mile sections to complete its entirety.
The Day Trip Mod: You don’t have to be a pro to get a taste of the Uinta Highline Trail. For a more manageable day hike or overnighter, try a 16.8-mile out-and-back jaunt from Mirror Lake to Blue Lake, which also passes a number of other beautiful bodies of water. There’s also a scenic 10.5-mile point-to-point route from Dime Lake to Chepeta Lake. You can also make a pitstop to Red Castle (shown above) via the China Meadows Trailhead.
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4. Timberline Trail in Oregon
Circumnavigate Mt. Hood at or above the tree line on the Timberline Trail, a 41-mile trail with around 10,300 feet of elevation gain. Snag a free permit at a trailhead kiosk before you start your journey, and then treat yourself to incredible vistas, waterfalls, alpine meadows, and lush forests at every turn. Most people complete the full trail in three days and four nights.
The Day Trip Mod: The Timberline Trail is accessible from many points around the mountain’s base, so you can easily break it up into sections. Try hiking Cloud Cap south to Newton Creek, a six-mile section with one stream crossing, or hike Top Spur east to Cloud Cap, an 11.3-mile trek on the mountain’s north side.
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5. Allegheny Front Trail in Pennsylvania
This 42-mile loop is ideal for backpacking over a long weekend. The Allegheny Front Trail links hiking trails, old logging roads, state forest roads, and Native American paths through Pennsylvania’s Moshannon State Forest. The trail snakes through a variety of habitats, including wetlands, forests, and rhododendron thickets. Rated as moderately challenging with just over 5,000 feet in elevation gain, the Allegheny Front Trail is a popular first backpacking trip for novices.
The Day Trip Mod: Using the side trails, shorter trips are also easily accessible. The 8.8-mile Moss Hanne Trail (which includes part of the greater Allegheny Front Trail) crosses boardwalks through the forest and wetlands, while the Six-Mile Run section meanders parallel to a stream.
With its sprawling natural wonders, endless outdoor pursuits, rich Appalachian heritage, and charming mountain towns, it’s no wonder West Virginia is known as Almost Heaven. This dynamic destination lures visitors from all walks of life throughout the year. But as autumn starts making its approach, the majestic Mountain State really kicks things into high gear.
There’s no denying the magic of the season once the annual fall foliage commences in September. Towering red oaks, sugar maples, and sycamore trees paint West Virginia’s vast landscapes every autumnal shade under the sun. After all, it’s the third-most forested state in the nation. Endless hiking, biking, and ATV trails burst to life in explosions of color as celebratory fall festivals begin cropping up in every corner of the state. And visitors from near and far can’t resist the warm hospitality of West Virginia’s cozy cabins and historic hotels.
No matter what type of autumnal getaway you’re craving, West Virginia delivers. There’s truly something for every type of traveler to experience in Almost Heaven. To help you plan an unforgettable escape, we’ve compiled some itinerary inspiration across the state based on various interests. Read on to discover what your ideal visit could look like. For even more ideas, download West Virginia’s free digital vacation guide or get a complimentary copy shipped to your door.
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For the Family Man
Plan a Road Trip
West Virginia becomes a foliage fanatic’s paradise in the fall, fit for the whole family. The crisp autumn air ushers in a hypnotic display with waves of crimson, copper, and burnt umber washing over West Virginia’s dramatic topography. And considering it’s located within one day’s drive from two thirds of the country, it’s the perfect fall family road trip destination. Don’t miss your chance to witness the Mountain State in all its glory. There’s no shortage of epic drives to pick from—but timing will determine which route will put on the best show.
Late September to Early October: Head to the Potomac Highlands along U.S. Route 48. Cruise through the regal Allegheny Mountains on winding, timber-flanked roads. The little ones will love the cozy mountain towns scattered along U.S. Route 219. Some noteworthy pit stops boasting picture-perfect scenery include Canaan Valley Resort State Park, Blackwater Falls State Park, and the Monongahela National Forest.
Mid-October: Make your way to Mountaineer Country for a mesmerizing show. Spend some time exploring Coopers Rock State Forest, which blazes brightly throughout mid-October. Pro tip: The main overlook features some of the best leaf peeping in the state and makes for a once-in-a-lifetime family photo op. Then, follow the forested backroads of U.S. Route 119 to popular destinations like Prickett’s Fort State Park, Valley Falls State Park, and Tygart Lake State Park for even more jaw-dropping views.
Late October: As October comes to a close, cruise along West Virginia Route 45 and West Virginia Route 9. These picturesque drives are easily accessible from hubs like Washington, D.C. and Baltimore. Soak in the fall foliage at iconic stops like Harpers Ferry National Historic Park and Shepherdstown, the oldest town in the state.
Couple walking through historic Harpers Ferry.Courtesy Image
Take a Scenic Train Ride
It seems the train travel trend is full steam ahead, and West Virginia boasts an impressive range of rail routes the whole family will appreciate. Climb aboard the Potomac Eagle Scenic Railroad to snake through imposing canyons, bordered by sepia-toned forests and craggy bluffs. Keep your eyes peeled—American bald eagle sightings are almost guaranteed. At Cass Scenic Railroad State Park, passengers can take a 4.5-hour round-trip excursion up Cheat Mountain from the comfort of an antique Shay locomotive. The overlook sits at a staggering 4,842 feet above sea level, serving up unobstructed panoramas of the changing leaves. And the Durbin & Greenbrier Valley Railroad offers several routes for tourists to choose from, including dinner trains and themed rides throughout the year. Try booking a rail adventure on the vintage New Tygart Flyer. The 46-mile route kicks off in Elkins (often ranked one of America’s best small art towns) and winds its way through rugged highlands, mountain grades, and the rushing waters of Shavers Fork river.
Gritt’s Fun Farm is a must this time of year.Courtesy Image
Find a Fall Festival
Autumn marks the start of countless fall festivals and celebratory events throughout the Mountain State. Venture to Putnam County to experience Gritt’s Fun Farm. From September 17 to October 30, kids can hit the pumpkin patch, enjoy hayrides, and navigate the farm’s corn maze. Another family favorite is the West Virginia Pumpkin Festival, held October 6 through October 9 in Milton. The fairgrounds transform into an autumnal utopia, complete with larger-than-life pumpkins, live music, and seasonal treats. For something more extreme, don’t miss National Trailfest from October 6 to October 10. ATV and dirt bike enthusiasts flock to the town of Gilbert to tear it up on the legendary Hatfield-McCoy Trail System. The event is chock-full of festive tomfoolery, including races, mud pits, casino nights, and grand prizes just waiting to be claimed.
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Where to Stay: In terms of lodging, West Virginia is teeming with options to fit any family’s style and budget. Parents and kids alike will fall for Snowshoe Mountain Resort. The property boasts jaw-dropping overlooks of the Allegheny Mountains and encompasses a range of relaxing accommodations, including hotels, lodges, inns, vacation rentals, lodging and more. Families looking for a snug cabin escape are also in luck. There are tons of options hidden all over the state. Choose from luxurious outposts, like Country Roads Cabins, to more rustic sanctuaries, like the secluded Germany Valley Overlook Cabins in Seneca Rocks. And what child wouldn’t jump at the chance to sleep in a treehouse? The custom-built Holly Rock Treehouse measures 24 feet in diameter and features a canopy bridge and wraparound observation deck that’s perfect for stargazing.
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For the Outdoor Explorer
Do Go Chasing Waterfalls
Seek out the state’s collection of over 200 cascading waterfalls. In fact, the newly minted West Virginia Waterfall Trail is an easy way to get started. Visitors can sign up to receive this free digital passport directly to their smartphones, which features more than two dozen waterfalls dispersed throughout the state. Check in at the designated sites to win prizes along the way—the more you visit, the cooler the reward. Stops on the trail include Blackwater Falls State Park in Davis, Kanawha Falls at the junction of the New and Gauley Rivers, and the postcard-perfect autumnal setting of Glade Creek Grist Mill Falls.
Hunt Your Heart Out
Wild and wonderful, West Virginia has long drawn skilled huntsmen. The combination of untamed wilderness and challenging game has made hunting a respected pastime in the region. Whitetail deer, red stag, wild boar, turkey, rabbit, waterfowl, and other small game can be hunted throughout the state. Explore more than 31,000 acres of public land, located mainly in the west-central region of the state. While hunting in state parks is off-limits, state forests like Cabwaylingo State Forest, Coopers Rock State Forest, and Panther State Forest are fair game. Other popular spots include privately owned Mountain Meadow Hunting Preserve in Greenville, Land Baron Outfitters in Palestine, and Wilderness Ridge Farm located in Southside. Just make sure to brush up on current hunting dates, regulations, and licensing requirements before planning your retreat. And if fishing is more your style, you can find more than 20,000 miles of sparkling mountain streams and over 100 tranquil lakes to cast a line and reel in the memories.
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Explore New River Gorge National Park and Preserve
Adventure is ingrained in West Virginia’s DNA. Your next outdoor pursuit is always on the horizon, thanks to the state’s 1.5 million acres of parks and public lands. But the most buzzworthy is the New River Gorge National Park and Preserve. Truly breathtaking in the fall, the country’s newest national park is an adventurer’s dream destination. Rock climbing, biking, hiking, kayaking, whitewater rafting—there are countless ways to get your blood pumping.
Don’t miss West Virginia’s famed Gauley Season, which kicks off the Friday after Labor Day and lasts until the third week of October. The scheduled water release of the Summersville Dam brings the Gauley River roaring to life, creating more than 26 miles of top-notch whitewater rafting, with rapids ranging from class III to V. Bridge Day is another time-honored tradition that can’t be missed. Held on the third Saturday of October, the iconic New River Gorge Bridge becomes a magnet, luring BASE jumpers from all over the world. The annual event draws thousands of onlookers as these daredevils jump from the bridge, plummeting 876 feet into the expansive canyon below. And if spectator sports aren’t your thing, there are plenty more stunning state parks with endless outdoor recreation activities.
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Where to Stay: ACE Adventure Resort is a playground for thrill-seekers of any age. Just a stone’s throw from New River Gorge National Park, the retreat is surrounded by 1,500 forested acres. Here, guests can spend their days ziplining, fly-fishing, whitewater rafting, cycling, hiking, rock climbing, and more. Intrepid travelers also flock to the neighboring Adventures on the Gorge Resort. Perched above the national park with spectacular views of the New River Gorge Bridge, this 350-acre basecamp offers world-class whitewater rafting experiences, plus even more land, water, and aerial adventures like wild cave tours, rappelling, kayaking, and zooming along one of America’s longest ziplines. Arrowhead Bike Farm is another nearby gem with well-kept campsites, a full-service bike shop, and a fleet of Trek and Pivot mountain bikes available to rent. Take advantage of their nearby trails and biergarten stocked with craft brews. Hoping for a more rustic getaway? Book one of the Tentrr campsites, tucked away in the heart of West Virginia’s finest wilderness areas, like Hawks Nest State Park. Each site comes with thoughtful amenities, like memory foam mattresses, propane heaters, and fire pits begging for some s’mores action.
For the History Buff
Tour a Historic Town
Almost Heaven is jam-packed with historic hidden gems and enchanting towns committed to preserving the past. Get a glimpse into bygone eras by visiting downright charming corners of the state, like Harpers Ferry. This small 19th-century town is recognized as a National Historic District and its quaint architecture alludes to its past as an important transportation hub in the 1800s. Learn more by visiting the town’s museums or joining a guided tour. At one time, the exclusive town of Bramwell was home to the most millionaires per capita in the nation. Nestled on a peninsula of the Bluestone National Scenic River, Bramwell was a former hot spot for coal barons and other members of society’s upper crust. Marvel at the preserved Victorian- and Tudor-style mansions during a walking tour while hearing tales about the once bustling coal industry. You can even drop by the Bramwell depot, a replica of the original railroad station that served the region. Parkersburg is another historic pocket worth checking out. Its rich heritage is on display in Julia-Anne Square and at several area museums. Then hop on a 19th century-style sternwheeler to Blennerhassett Island Historical State Park where you can explore a Palladian mansion and museum.
Follow the Coal Heritage Trail
Visitors can learn about fascinating legacy of the area through the Coal Heritage Trail. This unique driving trail winds through the formidable Appalachian Mountains, covering 187 miles across 13 counties. Along the way, you’ll follow rushing rivers, traverse immense valleys, and discover the charming mountain towns that defined the region. The trail starts on U.S. Route 52 in Bluefield and takes approximately five hours to complete—but build in extra time to pull over and discover attractions like the Beckley Exhibition Coal Mine.
Explore Historic Landmarks
There are hundreds of historic landmarks sprinkled throughout West Virginia, each commemorating a different aspect of the region’s deep-rooted past. For example, did you know West Virginia was the only state to be born out of the Civil War? Originally part of Virginia’s Old Dominion, it was granted statehood after seceding from the Confederacy. The Wheeling National Heritage Area is home West Virginia Independence Hall, considered the birthplace of the state. Drop in to get a free tour of this remarkably restored National Historic Landmark. The 16-acre West Virginia State Capitol Complex in Charleston is another captivating point of interest. The 14-karat-gold-leaf-gilded dome of the West Virginia Capitol building soars 292 feet (nearly four and a half feet taller than the U.S. Capitol building). Then, peruse the nearby West Virginia State Museum, a 24,000-square-foot center combining history, culture, art, paleontology, geology, and more. You can also spend a few days tracing the Civil War Trails, a national network encompassing more than 300 significant sites.
The Greenbrier: equals parts historic and majestic.Courtesy Image
Where to Stay:The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs is arguably one of the nation’s most legendary hotels. Known as “America’s Resort,” the grandiose property has welcomed presidents, royals, and countless celebrities since opening its doors in 1778. But one quirky amenity that history buffs will appreciate is the secret bunker. This supersized subterranean fallout shelter was constructed during the Cold War; it’s massive enough to house all 535 members of Congress in the Eisenhower era. Want to stay on George Washington’s old stomping grounds? Book a room at the Hillbrook Inn and Spa, located in historic Charles Town. The inn was constructed in the 1920s on Washington’s first land purchase. You can even take a dip in his bathtub, tucked away in Berkeley Springs State Park. If a visit to Harpers Ferry is on your list, plan to stay at the historic Light Horse Inn. Built in the 1770s, this former private home now offers seven spacious suites that combine epic mountain views with good old-fashioned Americana charm.
Hi friends! So excited that the podcast is BACK 🙂 I anticipate summers being more low-key on the podcast front, but now that we’re back in a routine, I have interviews stacked up and so much content to share with you guys. Please subscribe to the show if you’d like to be notified of new episodes as they go live!
For today’s episode, I’m chatting with Laura Varney about prenatal fitness, birth experiences, and how fitness perspectives can shift over time.
108: Prenatal fitness + shifting fitness perspectives with Laura Varney
We talk about:
– Her background and how she started working in the fitness industry
– Prenatal fitness tips
– Her experience in the bikini competition world
– How fitness perspectives and messaging have changed over time
– Her tips for being Healthy in Real Life
and so much more.
Here’s a bit more about Laura and her background:
Laura’s mission is to create a more empathetic approach to wellness – especially for those entering motherhood. Laura is a National Academy of Sports Medicine certified personal trainer, nutrition coach, and registered yoga teacher in Los Angeles. Her vigorous resume includes the specialization of strength and functional training, pre/postnatal training, HIIT (high-intensity interval training), and power vinyasa yoga.
She is the founder of The Baby Body: a 35-week prenatal exercise designed to keep women strong throughout all stages of pregnancy, during labor, and while being a parent. Laura’s passion for seeking an “unrestricted” life has catapulted her into the pursuit of empowering, supporting, and inspiring the women around her.
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I love love love the meals from Sakara Life! Use this link and the code XOGINAH for 20% off their meal delivery and clean boutique items. This is something I do once a month as a lil treat to myself and the meals are always showstoppers.
Get 15% off Organifi with the code FITNESSISTA. I drink the green juice, red juice, gold, and Harmony! (Each day I might have something different, or have two different things. Everything I’ve tried is amazing.)
If any of my fellow health professional friends are looking for another way to help their clients, I highly recommend IHP. You can also use this information to heal yourself and then go one to heal others, which I think is a beautiful mission.
Thank you so much for listening and for all of your support with the podcast! Please be sure to subscribe, and leave a rating or review if you enjoyed this episode. If you leave a rating, head to this page and you’ll get a little “thank you” gift from me to you.
Cruising along the sands of South Beach, where chrome-wrapped supercars and lifted G-Wagens have become passé, the Apocalypse Juggernaut 6×6 legitimately causes traffic jams as pedestrians and drivers alike stop and stare. Maybe a custom 6×6 that doubles up the rear axles of an already enormous Ram TRX could only emerge from the swamps of Florida (or Texas, though that’s a story for a different day) but the cartoonish fender flares, exaggerated supercharger whine, and bombastic bass of a Hellcat V8’s snarling exhaust still manage to catch everyone by surprise.
Back in the real world, Ford plans to begin customer deliveries of the radical F-150 in Raptor R trim soon, a supercharged and V8-powered truck first unveiled in June as a response to Ram’s TRX in the auto industry’s ever-escalating pickup truck wars. But the game of one-upmanship might well reach an end soon, as government regulations begin to reign in the big power figures, long-travel suspension, and aggressive designs of America’s most over-the-top pickups.
Aftermarket tuners face fewer concerns, however, which explains why Apocalypse Manufacturing of Fort Lauderdale, FL, can build a TRX-based 6×6 that’s nicknamed “Juggernaut” after a meme so popular it ended up in 2006’s franchise film X-Men: The Last Stand.
Apocalypse founder, designer, and engineer Joe Ghattas sketched those inverted fender flares hoping to transform a more “standard” TRX-based 6×6 nicknamed the “Warlord” that Apocalypse built last year into something even more excessive. After all, radical eye-catching excess is exactly what his customers want from Apocalypse and his original company, SoFlo Jeeps.
An all-steel combination grille and bumper he calls a “grumper,” 40-inch mud-terrain tires on custom SFJ wheels, and the tuned Hellcat all add to show-stopping presence. But the Juggernaut’s development goes back to an earlier era, before Ram even released the TRX (itself a response to the “regular” F-150 Raptor’s longterm market dominance).
Ghattas originally based his 6×6 creations on Jeep Wranglers, then started using the Gladiator pickup to take advantage of beefed-up driveline components since his builds typically feature a Hellcat, an LS, or a turbodiesel engine. But when Ram unveiled the TRX, he discovered that the industry’s most hardcore heavy-duty pickup chassis served as the perfect foundation for going bigger and bolder.
Bolting on the fender flares, front and rear bumpers, and chopping the bed to allow for a two-foot extension only covers the cosmetics—Apocalypse goes big beneath the skin, too. It moves the rear axle even further rearward, bolting in a new solid middle axle equipped with an in-house designed and fabricated Ford nine-inch rear end, then linking the two with a custom propshaft to create true six-wheel drive.
Unlike the Jeeps, which offer rear drive only thanks to a true two-speed transfer case, the TRX uses full-time four-wheel drive from the factory so the Juggernaut 6×6 ends up with full-time six-wheel drive, albeit with open differentials (all four can lock, of note). Ghattas also adds another set of active dampers to retain one of the TRX’s best features on the Juggernaut: Ram and Bilstein’s impeccable suspension tuning.
Of course, a TRX already weighs 6,439 pounds from the factory—but 702 horsepower still allow a stock truck to notch a 0-60 time as low as 3.7 seconds. The Juggernaut probably weighs closer to 8,000 pounds, thanks in large part to the set of six enormous 40-inch mud-terrain tires that tip the scales at over 100 pounds each.
To compensate for the additional heft, a bit of work on the eminently tunable Hellcat 6.2-liter Hemi V8 bumps output up to a claimed 850 horsepower. New injectors, an ECU tune, a smaller supercharger pulley to allow the blower to push more boost, plus relocating the coolant radiator to beneath the (now much larger) bed all support the additional grunt. Forget about actually putting the Juggernaut on a dyno, though, since nobody makes one capable of testing six-wheel-drive monsters.
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Driving the Beast
Actually climbing behind the wheel requires a big step up onto automatically retracting running boards, then a push-button start awakens the monster. From there, just about every driver will need a quick moment of adjustment to acclimate to most likely their highest seating position ever. Other than sitting up high and looking down at the roofs of other “full-sized” pickups stuck in Florida traffic, though, the Juggernaut feels surprisingly tame from inside the cabin. Sure, the grumbling exhaust and supercharger sounds provide a constant reminder of all the power on tap but compared to a base TRX, the excellent suspension and refined driveline components eliminate any potential bucking, clunking, or vibration. Right and left turns don’t even require too wide of an arc—though rest assured, everyone else on the road keeps their eyes on a truck so purposefully imposing.
Apocalypse also installs a bevy of interior upgrades to help justify the Juggernaut’s $300,000 price tag. A starry night headliner and embroidered upholstery stand out immediately, while using Ram’s original 12-inch touchscreen for a very helpful backup camera and thermal imaging “Zombie Cam” emerge as fun details. The increasingly common digital rearview mirror helps to improve visibility given the patented notchback bed cover and all the original switchgear still controls the TRX’s many drive modes.
The extra set of rear brakes on the new middle axle help to inspire confident driving given the truck’s additional size and weight, while also supporting Apocalypse’s claimed improvement to the TRX’s tow rating, now 20,000 pounds versus a four-wheeler’s 8,100.
Still, a quick stab at the gas pedal with a matching yank on the steering wheel can produce screaming six-wheel drifts with ease and, believe it or not, Ghattas laughingly tells stories of customers setting up off-road jumps for his 6x6s. Most, however, just want a rolling advertisement for their businesses, for their egos, or just for their wealth—MPGs and greenhouse gasses be damned. This is Florida, remember, though Apocalypse also regularly ships trucks to the Middle East.
When buying a custom 6×6 at this price point, customers probably give reliability less than a moment’s thought. Not Ghattas, who loves when his builds come back to the shop after taking a beating off-road—precisely so he can get underneath and take notes on how his modifications hold up. The next Juggernaut, already in progress, will feature a revised grumper to improve engine bay airflow while contributing to the front end’s design coherence with a new, more substantial skid plate.
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Unstoppable Demand
If the Juggernaut seems like a passing fad that might fizzle out as the electric revolution continues, guess again! Apocalypse cranked out 120 trucks last month, up from an average of 80 per month for the first half of 2022. As the only company that actively produces such widely promised but rarely delivered 6×6 conversions, Ghattas can’t keep his builds on the shelf. In fact, other famous names in the game even come knocking on his door asking Apocalypse to build trucks under license.
Ghattas plans to move Apocalypse into a larger facility to keep up with the Juggernaut’s popularity. Expect a similar treatment whenever Ford finally rolls out the highly anticipated Raptor R, but also a few surprises in the form of more exotic conversions, as well. In the here and now, though, nothing can outclass the undisputed heavyweight champ of 6×6 pickup trucks for those who feel the need to own and drive something as undeniably excessive as the Juggernaut.
This country’s unmatched and unlimited industrial might helped define the 20th century. But that was then, and this is now.
Crystal Mill: Marble, Colorado
When you first see the Crystal Mill—a former powerhouse cantilevered over a rushing river at an altitude of more than 10,000 feet—the first word that you may think of is Jenga. After all, with rough-hewn beams crisscrossing their way up to the mill’s main rooms, the whole structure seemingly has a wobbly future. But despite appearances, the mill—which dates to the 1890s—has proved remarkably sturdy even though it has been out of service for more than a century.
Part of that durability comes from the outcropping of rocks on which the mill is built, stone that also forms the bed of the Crystal River, giving the setting an even more striking appearance, as water constantly cascades past. That steady flow was key to the mill’s existence, spinning a waterwheel that powered an air compressor for the Sheep Mountain Tunnel, a slip of silver that lured a generation of workers to this rugged and remote chunk of the Centennial State.
Many of those who came to delve into the mountains lived in the nearby town of Crystal City, which, like its namesake mill, still stands, albeit largely abandoned. The town was once home to 600 or so souls, working at various mines and drinking to keep warm, though a crash in the price of silver emptied out the barrooms (and most of Crystal, too).
Those who make the trip from places like Aspen—about 20 miles northeast, but a nearly two-hour drive snaking through the mountains—are treated to a picturesque look into Colorado’s history, which was long tied to what lay beneath its soil. Framed by snowcapped peaks of the Elk Mountains and lush treescapes, the mill is commonly cited as one of the most photographed locations in Colorado.
The Sheep Mountain mine closed in 1917, taking the mill’s meaning-of-life along with it. In late 2021, plans for a “high-end winter and summer retreat,” offering backcountry skiing and fly-fishing, were reported in local newspapers, hot on the heels of a music festival that sprouted along Crystal City’s long-overgrown main street. But more than music, the main draw here remains the mill itself, still standing tall, despite its seemingly precarious perch.
The soaring architecture of the Port Richmond Generating Station, in all its abandoned glory.Michael Berindei
Port Richmond Generating Station: Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
A hulking neoclassical behemoth on the banks of the Delaware River, the Port Richmond Generating Station bears both the scars of its age and the faint etching of its past owner and purpose: the Philadelphia Electric Company.
The building’s birth dates to the Jazz Age, when Philadelphia was booming and needed energy to bring light to its eventually Springsteen-serenaded streets. The method of making electricity was simple and sultry: Coal-fired boilers would superheat water, the resulting steam would spin turbines and converters would channel the spark out into Philly’s territory.
Despite its industrial ethos, the company wanted the station to look good, too, so it hired John T. Windrim, the famed Philly architect who had designed a series of anciently inspired buildings around town. For the Port Richmond station, Windrim’s vision included an arching, skylighted turbine hall that was “modeled after the ancient Roman baths,” according to Jack Steelman’s Workshop of the World, a study of the city’s industrial history.
That building opened in 1925, though only part of Windrim’s plan came to fruition: The Depression, after all, dramatically reduced the need for power, and the prospects for generating a profit off it. Still, improvements and addendums kept it purring till the mid-’80s, when it finally closed after six decades in service.
Since then, neglect and the Northeastern winters have pockmarked the glass ceiling of the wide-open main hall, leaving it with dozens of broken windows, casting slivers of sunshine on the floor below, which sometimes floods, as rain and snow pelt the stone carapace and puddles therein. A tree sprouts from the rooftop and rust cakes smokestacks.
Massive tubes and bulbous boilers still create a sense of outsized, Alice in Wonderland wonder. Crust-covered railings and balconies surround the eerie central atrium, and in a mothballed control room, every knob, monitor and indecipherable gauge is coated with dust, even as discarded papers still litter the floor. The facility’s coal tower remains standing in the middle of the Delaware, connected to the riverside ruin by an arm of metal, but vandals and scrappers have had their way with some of the fixtures inside and outside the plant. Rain and snow fall inside the structure during storms, and tidal waters sometimes lap at the ancient machinery.
Even so, the Richmond plant has managed to foster some fame for itself in its retirement, appearing as a post-plague psych ward in the 1995 movie Twelve Monkeys and, more recently, as a backdrop for menacing machines in 2009’s Transformers: Revenge of the Fallen (as was its sister plant, the Delaware Generating Station, a little farther downriver).
The parcel of land on which it sits was sold to a local development company in 2019, and the building’s future is unclear. Until then, the Richmond continues to watch the city around it evolve, with new skyscrapers rising around it like the steam that once billowed inside.
The structure sits on a spit of land near the Buffalo River, where a steady stream of sightseers come to gawk and take selfies.Val Dunne Photography / Shutterstock
Great Northern Grain Elevator: Buffalo, New York
Long before Buffalo was known as the home of chicken wings, beef-on-weck or even the Bills, the Queen City was considered the grain-storage capital of the United States. That distinction—a weird one, to be sure—came in large part because of a series of soaring cement grain elevators that were built on the edge of Lake Erie, where Midwestern-grown wheat would come east on ships, before being sent to market along the Erie Canal or other byways.
Perhaps the most notable of these structures—at least for grain-elevator aficionados—was the Great Northern, a 15-story, brick-cladded “cathedral,” according to Gregory Delaney, a clinical assistant professor at the University at Buffalo’s architecture school.
Once fueled by electricity generated by Niagara Falls, about 20 miles northwest, the Great Northern was essentially a giant machine disguised as a building, using a series of pulleys, hoppers and conveyers to move grain from trains and ships to a series of steel bins inside. The building’s brick cladding kept the steel bins safe from the harsh winters and raking lake-side winds.
Buffalo’s connection to the wheat trade was once so intertwined that Buffalonians joked that the whole city “smelled like Cheerios.” Eventually, however, as trucks and planes began to make canal-travel obsolete, many of the city’s grain elevators fell into disuse, including the Great Northern, which closed in 1981.
The building’s current owner, a subsidiary of the food giant Archer Daniels Midland, acquired the building in 1992, and has sought several times to demolish it, leading to fierce battles with local preservationists, including an ongoing court saga. The pressure to tear down the Great Northern intensified in late 2021, when a powerful winter storm ripped away a section of the building’s brick on its northern wall, leading ADM to seek an emergency order to tear it down.
Conservationists insist the elevator is still structurally sound even as developers have floated various ideas for renovating it—a museum, apartments, a cultural center. Architectural experts like Gregory Delaney say that its destruction would be a major historical loss. Other fans agree.
“It’s hard for outsiders to believe, but people in Buffalo really cherish and value the elevators,” said Tim Tielman, the executive director for the Campaign for Greater Buffalo History, Architecture & Culture, which has sued to stop the demo. “They are big, gritty survivors, and this is the grittiest of them all.”
The Tintic is regularly visited by history buffs, mining fans and graffitists, who have turned its surfaces into a vivid canvas.Thomas Hawk
Tintic Standard Reduction Mill: Outside Gosben, Utah
Nestled into an arid hillside about an hour south of Salt Lake City, the Tintic Mill lived fast and died young, processing silver ore with the so-called Augustin method for a brief shining moment in the early 1920s, before being supplanted by more sophisticated means.
While its roots are a century old, the Tintic—so named for the mountain range in which it sits—sometimes resembles something even more ancient: its empty foundations suggesting a lost Aztec outpost, perhaps; its vacant bins evoking the ancestral, indigenous caves of New Mexico’s Bandolier National Monument. From other angles, the old mine looks vaguely futuristic, with its rounded tanks resembling the helm of some grounded starship, or maybe a lost and labyrinthine Cubist sculpture, magically transported from Paris to the middle of nowhere.
The Tintic’s location only intensifies its sense of otherworldliness. Located just outside Goshen, UT, the mine is surrounded by Martian desolation, though that remote—and occasionally rattlesnake-friendly—vibe has done little to discourage a steady stream of admirers.
Utah officials have not been amused by their interests, however, warning that the Augustin method involved a bevy of unpleasant and distinctly poisonous chemicals, including arsenic and lead, which still pollute the site—and those that traipse past “No Trespassing” signs to visit it. The site also has scientific and historical import; in 1978 it was included on the National Register of Historic Places, with archivists noting its engineering.
Indeed, as toxic as it was, the hillside design of the Tintic was also clever, using the gravity of the slope to facilitate the extraction of silver from its ore. Despite that ingenuity, the mine was a financial bust—costing millions in 2022 dollars for only a few years of use—and quickly made obsolete by cheaper methods of leeching out riches from rocks.
And while other nearby extraction- era mines also faltered and failed, leaving behind ghost towns and other odd tourist attractions, few seem to draw the artistic-minded souls who have decorated Tintic over the years. Enormous eyes and cryptic initials now stare out at the mountains beyond, as flowers and faces stare at visitors from the curved walls of the long-drained water bins.
As part of the Goshen Warm Springs Wildlife Management Area, the land is managed by the Utah Division of Wildlife Resources, which has kept it closed it to the public. But considering the off-the-beaten-track appeal of locations like Marfa, TX, one could imagine a quirky museum in such a locale, if only they could get rid of the mine’s poisonous past.
And, of course, the rattlers.
There are currently 55 nuclear power plants in the U.S., with two more reactors set to come on line at the Vogtle plant inBurke County, GA, in 2023.We Shoot/Alamy
Satsop Nuclear Plant: Elma, Washington
Once part of the largest nuclear power plant construction project in the nation’s history, the Satsop never saw a single flicker of fission. The multibillion-dollar plan ground to a halt in 1983 because of a financial meltdown by its owner—the Washington Public Power Supply System, sometimes nicknamed “Whoops”—resulting in the largest municipal bond default in U.S. history at the time.
Despite its bankrupt past, however, Satsop still looks the part, with a pair of completed cooling towers; demolishing them would have cost even more money that the developer didn’t have, so they remained standing, even as the national appetite for nuclear power faded, a trend no doubt edified by the terror of the 1986 Chernobyl accident.
Satsop continues to try to turn a buck, having been incorporated into a local business park made up of various formerly nuclear-minded industrial spaces. (At least one warehouse was tapped to grow marijuana, which is legal in Washington.) The site offers up a tech center and workforce training center, though it has also been used for slightly more exciting activities, such as military and first-responder training, complete with hazmat suits and armored equipment, which, of course, is never the most comforting thing to see around a nuclear plant.
“What’s so BIG about Satsop Business Park?” reads a come-on on the group’s website. “Everything!”
Indeed, the towers soar hundreds of feet in the air, poking their gray heads far above the mist-watered trees that surround them (and most of Elma, southwest of Seattle). Their unique shape—elegantly curved walls, tapering and turning up to the often-cloudy sky—make for curious acoustics, as do the thick concrete walls of some parts of the facility, with some companies doing sound research inside. A metal stairway climbs the side of each tower, leading to a narrow walkway nearly 500 feet in the air; there is also the still extant reactor building, and a series of tunnels, some hundreds of feet long, that bore underneath the Satsop.
Before Covid shut down, well, “Everything!,” such unique features made the facility popular with sci-fi filmmakers—the Transformers series used the location twice—as well as some more experimental souls. That includes Japanese-born, Seattle-based artist Etsuko Ichikawa, who created an eerie short film there after the 2011 earthquake and tsunami in her home country drenched and partially destroyed another nuke: the Fukushima power plant, leading to a massive release of radioactivity.
No such worries envelop Satsop, however, whose pre-Enron-era cash crunch never let it go nuclear. And for the time being, not much art is happening there, either, as its owners have stopped rentals for shoots, leaving both killer robots and trippy-film makers scouting for other backdrops.
In 2021, a consortium was selected to overhaul the site, including a collection of sports fields, a STEM center and even a water park.Media Drum World/Alamy
Six Flags New Orleans: New Orleans, Louisiana
Although not a 20th-century industrial colossus shuttered by the gig economy, the fading fun that is represented by the Six Flags New Orleans—swamped by the 2005 storm Katrina, which killed nearly 2,000 people and caused more than $100 billion in damage—is trenchant, with abandoned rides still beckoning a crowd that never arrives.
Built under the name Jazzland, and opened in 2000, the $130 million wonderland was originally meant to represent the always vibrant vibe of NOLA, with areas named Cajun Country, the Goodtime Gardens and, naturally, Mardi Gras. Leaning on the city’s culture and heritage, the park offered live music and glittering beads to visitors, just like Bourbon Street; “When the Saints Go Marching In” was known to serenade those waiting in line for the next thrill.
And unlike many of New Orleans adult-oriented attractions, Jazzland, which was taken over by Six Flags in 2002, was meant for family fun, with a giant wooden roller coaster with a rockin’ name, the Mega Zeph; the Muskrat Scrambler, which specialized in brain-rattling hairpin turns; and eventually the loop-crazy, neon green Jester, recalling Batman’s nemesis, the Joker. As that suggests, Six Flags had added a DC Comics tie-in, with an inverted coaster devoted to the Caped Crusader.
Indeed, a superhero might have been called for in August 2005, when Katrina roared ashore, making landfall near New Orleans with winds well in excess of 100 mph, drenching rains and a catastrophic storm surge. The damage at Six Flags was extreme: Up to seven feet of water cascaded into the park, spilling through turnstiles and into the machinery of rides, destroying their electronics and other parts, and forever stilling them.
Closed for Storm, a 2020 documentary about the park, outlined much of the damage, as well as the ongoing upset among New Orleans residents who feel that the park’s abandonment is symbolic of the neglect still plaguing parts of the city.
In 2009, Six Flags negotiated out of its lease with the city, which took back the land. Over the years vandals and graffiti artists made their way into the remains, even as curiosity-seekers sought it out, too, roaming through buildings where 2005 calendars and promotion plans for that fall still hang on the walls.
There will be 272 regular season NFL games in 2022, the second year of a scheduling format that boasts 17 games per team. That’s a lot of football, but some of these contests will be better than others.
Your preferred sort of NFL game is a personal decision. Maybe you like watching the Jacksonville Jaguars play the Detroit Lions in a cavernous Ford Field on the first Sunday in December. Or you might enjoy the Washington Commanders playing the New York Giants two times in three weeks in the last month of the season. Everyone is into something, and any NFL game can be fun in its own way.
But if you’re wondering what’s really worth watching this season (aside from your favorite team), the list below will help. Here are seven NFL games that should appeal to a wide football audience, either because they’re heavyweight bouts or they will showcase some other good storyline. These might not all be Game of the Year contenders, but they look juicy on paper as the league revs up for 2022. TV schedules are still being sorted out, but you can check times here once they’re released.
Utility Collection
