Spilling inland from the coast southwest of Tokyo, Hakone serves up unreal scenery on all sides. The vermilion torii gate of the Hakone-jinja shrine seems to levitate out of Ashi-no-ko, a scenic lake born of a volcano. In the volcanic Ōwakudani valley, sulfurous steam gushes into the air as you float over its primordial scenery in a cable car.
History is written large on the landscape, too. Feel time bend as you walk in the footsteps of ancient samurai warriors who wore down the ancient pebble pathways of the Tōkaidō road, then sink into an outdoor onsen (Japanese bath) in Hakone-Yumoto, taking part in centuries-old ceremonies harking back to the heyday of dynastic Japan.
Life in the Hakone region has long been immortalized in ukiyo-e (woodblock prints), and you’ll still see art everywhere here today, in museums full of Japanese and international art treasures, dotted around the forests of Fuji-Hakone-Izu National Park.
For visitors on a short trip, Hakone is conveniently close to Tokyo, with connections by train taking as little as 1½ hours. Most people prioritize trips to the volcanic vents of Ōwakudani and the red Hakone-jinja gateway on the shores of Ashi-no-ko. If this describes your travel plans, base your trip around the Hakone Ropeway, which runs from the summit of Sōun-zan to Tōgendai, via Ōwakudani.
Whatever draws you to this intriguing corner of Japan, here are the best things to do in Hakone.
1. Unwind in the hot springs of Hakone-Yumoto
The Hakone region is home to scattered villages and small towns such as Hakone-Yumoto, an onsen resort that dates back to the 8th century. Bathing at a spa complex such as Tenzan Tōji-kyō is imbued with prestige, and a soak in the rotemburo (outdoor onsen) will remind you that you are participating in a tradition as old as the ancient trees around you.
Similarly luxurious Hakone Yuryo provides a memorable rotemburo experience deeper in the forest, with the option of a meal package so you never have to leave this idyllic setting. However, at these more traditional spas, bathing is single sex and nude, and there are restrictions on bathers with tattoos.
If you’re traveling with children, family-friendly Hakone Kowaki-en Yunessun has mixed bathing, so you’ll need a bathing suit. It resembles a water theme park more than a traditional onsen, with water slides, artificial waterfalls and a themed pool where red “wine” pours from a giant wine bottle! Come for laughter, not tranquillity.
Planning tip: Shuttle buses run to major spas from Hakone-Yumoto Station, on the Hakone Tozan Railway line, linking Odawara to Gōra.
2. Appreciate Japanese art, starting at the Hakone Open-Air Museum
Hakone is a place where nature is a key part of the artist’s canvas. At Hakone Open-Air Museum near Gōra, you can wander across a verdant hillside dotted with towering sculptures and installations by Henry Moore, Rodin, Miró and other big names.
If it’s raining, head inside the Picasso Pavilion, home to over 300 works by the legendary Spanish artist. Be sure to ascend Gabriel Loire’s Symphonic Sculpture, a spiral staircase encased in vibrant stained glass that offers breathtaking views of the park and the surrounding mountains.
Next, take a short walk to the Okada Museum of Art, displaying Japanese, Chinese and Korean art collected by industrialist Okada Kazuo. Nearby, in the village of Gōra, you can pop into the Hakone Museum of Art and take part in a matcha tea ceremony, or browse the photos in the Hakone Museum of Photography.
Take a bus to reach the Pola Museum of Art, an architectural marvel of soft turquoise glass that displays works by Van Gogh, Cézanne, Renoir and Matisse alongside Japanese artists; it’s a few kilometers northeast of Gōra.
Your last stop should be either the Narukawa Art Museum at the southeast end of Ashi-no-ko, or the Enoura Observatory, a fantastical complex on the coast overlooking Sagami Bay combining seascape vistas, ancient stones, fossils and modern architecture that riffs on traditional Japanese themes.
3. Soak up volcanic views from the Hakone Ropeway
To get the best aerial views of the volcanic caldera lake of Ashi-no-ko, the fuming Ōwakudani valley and Mt Fuji (weather permitting), take the Hakone Tozan Cable Car from Gōra to the top of Sōun-zan mountain, then hop on the Hakone Ropeway for stunning vistas over Hakone’s surreal volcanic landscapes.
Connecting Sōun-zan Station with Tōgendai Station on the shores of Ashi-no-ko, the ropeway ride takes about 30 minutes. At Tōgendai, you can board a galleon-shaped sightseeing boat at Moto-Hakone pier to reach the lake’s best viewing points.
On your way to the lake, you’ll soar above Ōwakudani, Hakone’s “Great Boiling Valley” – created 3000 years ago when the Kami-yama volcano erupted and collapsed. The eruption also formed the lake of Ashi-no-ko, one of Hakone’s most iconic sights.
This stunning cobalt-blue crater lake offers breathtaking views of Mount Fuji from its shores, especially on still days, when the mountain is reflected perfectly in the calm waters. Winter mornings provide the clearest views.
For the perfect Hakone photo, capture the red torii gate of the Hakone-jinja shrine, which can be viewed from land, or from the water on a boat tour. You can reach the shrine on foot from Moto-Hakone, walking around the edge of the lake.
Planning tip: The volcanically heated waters of the Hakone area are used to boil kuro tamago – literally “black eggs.” The sulphur reacts with the eggshells, turning them black and giving them a distinctive flavor. Some say eating kuro tamago can extend your life by seven years. The black eggs are on sale at tourist stores if you wish to extend your expiration date.
4. Enjoy wagyu and traditional Japanese treats at Hakone’s best restaurants
If you’re looking for next-level Japanese-style hamburger steaks or premium wagyū beef cooked right in front of you, grab a bite at Kinosuke in Hakone-Yumoto. Another great option in this onsen town is 808 Monsmare, serving authentic wood-fired pizzas with mozzarella, fresh basil and excellent passata; their matcha gelato is a must-try.
For a lakeside meal near the Tōgendai Ropeway station, try Kotei for seafood curry (or spicy spinach and mushroom for vegetarians) on a terrace with lake views. At Amimoto Ooba, you can try crispy tempura wakasagi (whitebait-like fish), caught in Ashi-no-ko and served with matcha salt.
If you want something more traditional, try the mild katsu curry (pork cutlet with a spicy sauce) or omurice (omelet and fried rice) at the Tōgendai View Restaurant, with elevated views of the lake and its “pirate ship” sightseeing boats.
5. Follow in the footsteps of shogun and samurai warriors on the Edo Road
To relive the glory days of Hakone, trace the footsteps of the shogun and samurai who journeyed along the Tōkaidō – one of the ancient Five Routes of Edo-period Japan. Its smooth cobbles have been polished by centuries of foot traffic (vehicles with wheels were forbidden by decree).
The best way to enjoy the serene forest scenery is on the 4km (2.5-mile) hike from Moto-Hakone to Hatajuku, a quaint village that preserves a hint of the feudal era. Take a bus to Hakone-jinja-iriguchi, one stop before Moto-Hakone, then walk up a short road to the wooden sign marking the trail entrance. From here, the hike is mostly downhill and easy to follow, with signs in English.
At the midway point, you’ll find a teahouse, Amazake-chaya, where you can take a break and sip amazake (sweet rice wine) or green tea. At the hike’s end point, it’s worth exploring the shops selling traditional woodwork, such as Hatajuku Yosegi Kaikan. To return to Hakone-Yumoto, hop on a bus from Hatajuku.
Planning tip: For another easy but rewarding walk in the area, take a stroll around Ashi-no-ko. The Western Bank Trek offers good views of Hakone-jinja, while the Eastern Bank Trek takes in stunning Mt Fuji views from Onshi Hakone Kōen.
6. Savor coffee or cocktails with a scenic view
Early starts are rewarded in Hakone. Start a morning in Gōra with a pick-me-up at Coffee Camp, where English-speaking baristas brew single-origin coffee and affogato in a hip, polished-concrete space.
After a day of forest and museum exploring, pause for afternoon tea, apple pie and French toast while you take in stunning Ashi-no-ko views from the terrace at Salon de thé Rosage, close to Hakone-jinja. Wrap up your evening at the Indigo Hotel’s Riverside Kitchen & Bar over whisky, gin and cocktails beside the Haya River.
Planning tip: It is considered rude in Japan to drink or eat while walking or on public transport, and this also applies to takeaway coffee. Do as locals do and settle in to enjoy your breakfast cup before you set off to explore.
7. Make the most of the Hakone Free Pass
If you’re looking for a budget-friendly way to explore the Hakone region, the Hakone Free Pass is a fantastic choice. This popular travel pass gives you unlimited access to all the Odakyu-affiliated buses, trains, boats, cable cars and ropeways in the Hakone area, plus discounts on select tourist attractions over two or three consecutive days.
Pass-holders get round-trip travel on the Odakyu Line from Tokyo, as well as unlimited use of eight different modes of transportation, including the scenic, mountain-climbing Hakone Tozan Railway, the Hakone Tozan Cable Car, and the Hakone Ropeway.
The pass also includes sightseeing cruises on Ashi-no-ko lake, plus free travel on the Kanko Shisetsu-Meguri Bus that connects popular spots to visit in the region.
Planning tip: If you’re planning sightseeing around the Hakone Pass, the package includes discounted entry to attractions such as the Hakone Yuryo and Hakone Kowaki-en Yunessun onsens, Hakone Gōra Park and the Hakone Open-Air Museum.
8. Stay in a Hakone spa hotel
Being an onsen town, Hakone-Yuomoto has plenty of lodging options that include an on-site spa. Fukuzumirō is a traditional ryokan inn from 1890, serving seasonal meals that you can enjoy in your room and shared stone and pine onsen baths.
If you prefer a gender-separated onsen experience, book a stay at Yoshiike Ryokan, a seven-minute walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station, which offers spacious rooms with single-sex outdoor onsen baths amid lush Japanese gardens.
For an inexpensive, old-style Japanese experience, K’s House Hakone offers futon dorms, capsules, bunks and neat tatami-style doubles, plus both indoor and outdoor onsen pools. For a luxe stay, head to Hoshino Resorts Kai Hakone, a minimalist hotel offering partly outdoor infinity-style onsen pools, English-speaking staff and exceptional kaiseki (multi-course Japanese meals).
This article was adapted from Lonely Planet’s Japan guidebook, published in March 2024.
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