Month: September 2024

Three Napa wineries filed a joint lawsuit against Napa County in federal court yesterday, alleging that county officials systematically violated their constitutional rights. The wineries—Summit Lake Vineyards, Smith-Madrone Vineyards & Winery and Hoopes Vineyard—filed the complaint with the U.S. District Court for the Northern District of California in San Francisco.

This is the just latest development in a growing battle with the county. Vintners and growers cite government overreach, confusing regulations, inconsistent enforcement and more. Multiple parties have filed lawsuits regarding use permits and water rights in recent years.

Four million tourists visit Napa annually, and many stop at small wineries. In 2015, 68 percent of Napa wineries produced fewer than 20,000 cases per year. There is a growing concern that the county is not supporting its biggest economic draw, especially when it comes to small wineries. Many small-winery owners have grievances with the county government, including fights to get approval for new construction and mandated wastewater treatment upgrades. There’s also a federal investigation over possible corruption in the permitting process, with the FBI subpoenaing records from several wineries.

In their complaint, the three wineries argue that the “County of Napa regulates wineries within the County not based on clear, understandable ordinances, but rather upon an ever-changing patchwork of undocumented ‘policies’ and procedures. The few written ordinances Napa County does have are so vague that county wineries are unable to decipher what is and is not allowed and so vague as to allow Napa County officials to use their unfettered discretion to restrict winery operations as they see fit.”

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“Only by going to the federal courts can we protect our constitutional rights to ensure fairness in being regulated by Napa County,” said Lindsay Hoopes, owner of Hoopes Vineyard, in a statement.

The county filed a lawsuit against Hoopes in state court five years ago, accusing her of violating rules by hosting tastings and yoga classes. Hoopes argues her winery has an existing small winery exemption for tastings, but county officials claim it is not valid. In August, Hoopes filed a motion to dismiss the case after finding new evidence that allegedly shows the county secretly changed the property entitlements of her winery and more than 20 others.

The owners of Smith-Madrone and Summit Lake were also granted small winery exemptions when Napa passed its Winery Definition Ordinance in 1990, which they argue has always allowed for tastings. But they were both informed in recent years that wasn’t the case.

Smith-Madrone owner Stu Smith has hosted tastings at his winery since his use permit was approved in the early 1970s. “Now, 48 years later, without my being notified or being allowed to be present to defend my rights,” he told Wine Spectator, “the county arbitrarily and capriciously changed my permitting to zero visitors a day and somehow came up with 10 visitors a week.”

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The wineries argue in the lawsuit that the First Amendment and California law protect their rights to host visitors and events in their tasting rooms and serve samples and glasses of wine. The county further violates their rights, they say, when it requires wineries to get prior approval before hosting events while it regulates cultural events based upon the message delivered at those events.

Smith and Heather Brakesman-Griffin of Summit Lake Vineyard said in a joint statement, “Whether it’s unfair and capricious manipulation of the winery database, ever-changing interpretations of the road and street standards or other issues, there is a desperate need to find fairness, professionalism and integrity in how we are regulated.”

Napa officials told Wine Spectator they could not comment until they had reviewed the complaint.

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Who’s behind it: Last month, chef and humanitarian José Andrés opened his fifth Las Vegas restaurant, Bazaar Mar, in the Shops at Crystals, a luxury shopping destination on the Las Vegas Strip. A counterpart to the chef’s Bazaar Meat, which offers a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence–winning wine program just down the road at the SAHARA resort, Bazaar Mar is a Spanish tapas eatery with whimsical seafood dishes, in sync with Andrés’ cooking style.

Here, guests are welcomed into a theatrically designed dining room that incorporates oceanic elements with shades of orange and emerald green, as well as details like marble centaurs and ceramic Sicilian teste di moro (male and female heads adorned with crowns).

“We’ve received phenomenal feedback from our guests, who trust us to take them on an incredible journey of the sea and create a special experience for them,” Bazaar Mar head chef Daniela Romero told Wine Spectator via email. “They love the decor and ambiance, the details we incorporate in the service we provide, and our creative and playful dishes.”

When it opened: Aug. 7

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The culinary approach: Bazaar Mar’s menu weaves in elements of molecular gastronomy and staples of Andrés’ repertoire, such as liquid olives (made famous by chef Ferran Adrià at El Bulli in Spain), “Neptune’s Pillow” (spicy tuna served over puffed “air bread”) and “Honey, I Shrunk the Elote” with popcorn powder. The team incorporated a large portion of the original Bazaar Mar menu, Romero noted, while adding new and exciting dishes like Catalan Rossejat (a paella-style pasta), lobster salpicon and grilled Ora King salmon served with salmon roe and Meyer lemon. The dessert menu also features creative offerings, including “Key Lime Beach,” a “sand castle” of graham cracker crumble served with “lime air,” a foam that looks like waves breaking on shore.

What’s on the wine list: Sommelier Roy Arias oversees the wine program, which has a strong focus on Spain, as well as on leading Bordeaux châteaus. The list features around 220 selections, backed by a cellar containing more than 1,600 bottles, with a range of seafood-friendly Sherry, white and sparkling wines from the likes of R. López de Heredia Viña Tondonia and Josep Maria Raventós i Blanc. For reds, options include bottlings such as Señorio de San Vicente Rioja and Bodegas Vega Sicilia Ribera del Duero Unico from Spain, as well as knockout wines like Château Latour Pauillac 1990.

A second opening: In tandem with Bazaar Mar, Andrés also opened Bar Centro one floor below. The versatile space doubles as a coffee shop by day and a cocktail lounge by night. “Bar Centro allows guests to enjoy a range of experiences throughout the day, from coffee, tea and pastries in the morning, to cocktails, caviar and elevated bites in the evening,” Romero explained.—Chris Cardoso

Emmer & Rye Team Opens Isidore in San Antonio, Texas

Who’s behind it: Isidore is the latest project from Texas-based Emmer & Rye Hospitality Group, a collection of restaurants in Austin and San Antonio that includes Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner Hestia and Award of Excellence winner Emmer & Rye. Isidore is the fourth full-service restaurant inside Pullman Market, which the group debuted earlier this year just a short distance from San Antonio’s iconic River Walk, in the historic Pearl District.

When it opened: Aug. 13

What’s on the wine list: Wine director Ali Schmidt, who leads the wine programs for all of Emmer & Rye’s concepts, told Wine Spectator via email that “the wine list at Isidore is meant to complement the cuisine, which honors the bounty of Texas.” Schmidt has assembled 200 wine selections, with 16 available by the glass and 1,200 bottles in the cellar. She hopes to grow the list to more than 250 offerings and to feature more Texas wines and mature vintages in the future.

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“The list highlights our local Texas wine industry, featuring the producers in our backyard, alongside the best wines of the world,” said Schmidt. “We are particularly proud to showcase wines from small Texas producers like Doug Lewis of Lewis Wines, Randy Hester of C.L. Butaud and Rae Wilson of La Valentía.”

While plenty of restaurants in up-and-coming wine regions feature a token local bottling or two, Isidore is serious about spotlighting Texas wines. A quarter of the by-the-glass offerings are from Texas, and a section of the bottle list is devoted to Texas reds (all priced less than $100). Outside the reds, there are other styles of Texas wine, from Albariño to a Madeira-style dessert wine. If you’re in the mood for something stronger, check out the admirable selection of Bourbon and Texas whiskey.

The picks from the rest of the wine world feature classic regions and leading wineries alongside offbeat styles and less familiar producers. Here, white Burgundy from Domaine Leflaive mingles with “Party Boy,” a Riesling-based orange wine from Good Boy Wines in Santa Barbara. Wine lovers looking to splurge on something special will find plenty of solid options, including mature bottlings and magnums, but the list generally offers good value. Overall, many bottles are priced $50 or less and a good number cost less than $100.

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Schmidt’s style yokes unassuming vinous know-how to lighthearted whimsy. A large section of the list is devoted to “Bordeaux Grapes, Around the World” featuring wines from producers such as Inglenook and DeLille. In contrast, another section is called “Rosé That Takes Itself Seriously and You Should Too,” which is anchored by a Merlot rosé from Bordeaux’s Château Le Puy.

The culinary approach: Isidore’s menu is divided into four sections: a raw bar, snacks, small plates and mains “from the hearth.” Across the menu, there’s an affinity for fermentation and other contemporary techniques; among the accompaniments and dressings are nitro potato, bread aminos, lactic strawberry, pickled sea purslane and bee balm kombucha.

Isidore’s culinary team highlights Texas ingredients in dishes that combine sophistication and hominess. Tomato pie is served with pimento cheese and crème fraîche, while shrimp meatballs accompany okra stew. The mains lean toward hearty proteins, with three steak options, a dry-aged Berkshire pork chop and a heritage half-chicken. There’s also a hot pot of farm vegetables with Texas grains and mushroom dashi, plus blueline tilefish with mousseline, tomato and sweet pepper rouille.

For dessert, consider the s’mores, with toasted meringue standing in for the marshmallow. Or, for a true taste of Texas, try the cheesecake with a sorbet of the official state plant, the prickly pear cactus.—Kenny Martin

Otium Closes in Downtown Los Angeles

What’s happening: Downtown Los Angeles restaurant Otium is closing after nearly 10 years serving chef Tim Hollingsworth’s eclectic menu and standout wines. The restaurant team announced the closure in an Instagram post, citing “unprecedented challenges” brought on by the COVID-19 pandemic. The post also indicated that the team is actively looking to reopen elsewhere in the city. “Otium has always been more than just a place to eat; it has been a gathering spot for friends, families and locals, a place where memories were made and shared,” the Instagram post read. “While we are closing our doors at this location, we are hopeful about the future for Otium.”

When it’s closing: Sept. 8

Why it matters to wine and food lovers: Hollingsworth, who spent 13 years at Thomas Keller’s the French Laundry (including four as chef de cuisine), opened Otium in 2015, quickly gaining attention in the L. A. dining scene. His menu offers a wide-ranging mix of dishes—incorporating influences from Asia, the Middle East, Italy and beyond—prepared in an expansive open kitchen and served to guests in a buzzy dining room. The restaurant has earned Wine Spectator’s Best of Award of Excellence since 2017, and its commitment to wine is readily apparent: Otium’s 3,500-bottle collection is on display in a large, translucent tower, which is so tall that staff must use ladders to reach the top shelves. Highlights from the list include multiple bottlings of Dom Pérignon and familiar names like Bond and Château Cos-d’Estournel. However, in keeping with the menu, selections from lesser-known wine regions are also on offer, including Lebanon, Slovenia and England.

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Looking ahead: Hollingsworth has other projects in the works. Chain, his recent collaboration with actor B.J. Novak, is a pop-up offering elevated renditions of popular fast-food items. Chain has steadily grown since its inception in 2022 and will be hosting food festivals in Los Angeles and New York City later this year.

There’s no word on what will take over the eye-catching minimalist building that houses Otium at Broad Museum Plaza, just beside the Broad, a contemporary art museum. Designed by late architect Osvaldo Maiozzi, the building—with prominent wood panels and floor-to-ceiling windows—cuts a striking figure in the Bunker Hill neighborhood.—Greg Warner

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