Month: September 2024

Electric-green palms stretching above glinting backwaters that empty into rippling lakes. Honey-colored beaches washed by the tropical surf dotted along an almost 600km(370-mile)-long coastline. Fragrant coconut-laced stews mopped up with fluffy appam (rice-flour pancakes). 

This is just a taste of what awaits discovery on a trip around India’s magical, laid-back southwesternmost state. 

Kerala is defined by its vast network of canals, lakes and rivers, which together make up those fabled backwaters. All along the coast, relaxed beach towns deliver palm-fringed sands, seafood shacks and ayurveda centers, while inland waterways thread past spice-growing farms and palm trees heavy with cococuts. Heading into the cooler hills, the mist-wrapped mountainscapes of the richly biodiverse, UNESCO-protected Western Ghats stop everyone in their tracks.

Then there’s Kerala’s rich arts scene, from centuries-old Kathakali dance-drama to a flourishing wave of contemporary art in evocative Kochi (Cochin). Like most of India’s other southern states, Kerala has its own official language, Malayalam, along with a packed calendar of colorful regional festivals. 

I’ve been spending time in Kerala regularly for over a decade (often on Lonely Planet assignments), and have explored all the way from the beaches of southern Kovalam and northern Kasaragod to the jade-green tea gardens of the lofty Western Ghats.

Tempted yet? Here’s how to get started. 

Time your visit to Kerala with one of the many lively festivals that take place throughout the year, such as New Year celebrations in Kochi. Dmytro Gilitukha/Shutterstock Dmytro Gilitukha / Shutterstock

When should I go to Kerala? 

Kerala’s main tourism season is November to April, when the weather is tropically pleasant all along the coast, with highs of around 31°C (88°F) in Kochi. Things feel busiest (and priciest) during the peak months of December to February, when it pays to book well ahead for accommodation, trains and houseboats. There’s also an array of wonderful cultural events around this time, including the vibrant Kochi–Muziris Biennale and the International Film Festival of Kerala, held in the state capital of Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum). 

The Western Ghats make for a cool retreat any time of year, especially around tea-growing Munnar, which sits at an elevation of 1500m (4921ft), with daytime temperatures only climbing to the mid-20s°C (70s°F) during high season. 

The July and August monsoon months have long been the traditional time for ayurveda in Kerala, though many centers offer retreats and therapies year-round. If you’re here in August/September, you’ll catch the fabulous festivities for Onam – with traditional arts on show and onam sadhya feasts served on banana leaves – and the famous snakeboat races in Alappuzha (Alleppey) (expect things to be busy around both events). It’s worth keeping in mind that landslides and flooding have occurred during rainy months in recent years. 

Be sure to leave time on your Kerala itinerary to explore the misty Western Ghats. Vihang Ghalsasi/Shutterstock Vihang Ghalsasi / Shutterstock

How much time should I spend in Kerala? 

You could spend months traveling around Kerala and still be discovering new corners. For India-based travelers, places like culture-packed Kochi and beachy Varkala make for ideal short-break escapes, with handy transport, great food scenes, inspired accommodation and plenty to explore in the immediate vicinity. 

A trip of around two weeks should thoroughly immerse you in Kerala’s palm-studded beauty. Perhaps combine a few days of history, food and monuments in Kochi with south-coast hubs like Varkala, Kovalam and Alleppey, then add on a spin up into the Western Ghats for hiking in Munnar and wildlife-spotting in Periyar Tiger Reserve. An alternative itinerary could take in the joys of Kerala’s less-touristed north coast (more on this below) and the ethereal Wayanad region of the Ghats. Or combine Kerala’s north and south in a multi-week adventure at a more relaxed pace.

Ferries in Kerala operate rain or shine. Getty Images Getty Images

Is it easy to get to and around Kerala? 

Kerala has excellent transport links, starting with well-connected international airports in both Kochi and Trivandrum. Smaller airports at Kannur, Kozhikode (Calicut) and Mangaluru (Mangalore; in southern Karnataka) now make reaching northern Kerala a breeze, too.

Trains conveniently connect most lowland destinations, letting passengers soak in all those lush landscapes along the way. Since 2023, fast new Vande Bharat trains run from Trivandrum to Kerala’s far north in just 8 hours. (Check out this guide for tips on booking train tickets in India.) For day excursions and longer trips, many travelers hire a car with a driver, which works particularly well if splitting the cost between a few passengers. Budget travelers can take advantage of frequent local buses. Bus and car are the only way to reach the mountainous Western Ghats. (Though a train does trundle up their eastern side, from Tamil Nadu.)

Local ferries are a great, budget-friendly way to travel around the backwaters – especially state-run ferries across vast Vembanad Lake, such as the popular Alleppey–Kottayam route. Or jump on the Kochi Water Metro for quick ferry hops between the city’s islands and mainland Ernakulam. 

Top things to do in Kerala 

A stay a houseboat in immerses you in the backwaters’ calm charm. iStock © iStock

Cruise through the palm-fringed backwaters 

An unforgettable, low-impact way to explore the famous backwaters is on an expert-led kayak or canoe trip, which typically travel along small offbeat canals and visit secluded villages for lunch. The main hub for backwaters adventures is lively Alleppey (Alappuzha), but for a quieter experience it’s well worth the journey north to the lesser-known Valiyaparamba backwaters near Kannur. 

Backwaters trips aboard pretty “rice barge” houseboats can also be spectacular (with a little planning), though in recent years concerns have emerged about their impact on this fragile environment. To find a responsible houseboat operator, it pays to research and book well ahead. 

For a truly special backwaters experience, conservation-driven The Blue Yonder runs fabulous sunset canoe tours, culminating in a dinner on a repurposed fishing-net platform just outside Kochi. Or stay a few nights at a waterfront property and catch pink-woven sunrises over the quiet waterways: we recommend the boutique feel of Kayal Island Retreat near Kochi, or a spice-growing homestay at Philipkutty’s Farm on Vembanad Lake. 

Fort Kochi, Kochi’s historic heart, is a dream to explore on foot or by bike. Dmytro Gilitukha/Shutterstock Dmytro Gilitukha / Shutterstock

Soak up arts, architecture and gastronomy in Kochi

Set on a meandering estuary, Kochi is Kerala’s cultural capital and one of South India’s loveliest cities to wander. It was colonized by the Portuguese in the 16th century, then by the Dutch and British, and has recently emerged as one of India’s creative hubs. Leafy Fort Kochi – Kochi’s flat main historical district – is a joy to explore on foot or by bike, as you weave past landmarks such as the Portuguese-built St Francis Church and timeworn streets now adorned with bright murals. Many heritage buildings here have been reborn as arty cafes, creative galleries and soulful hotels. Kashi Art Cafe is a pioneer of the scene, going strong since the 1990s. 

In neighboring Mattancherry, explore relics such as the 16th-century Mattancherry Palace (decorated with exquisite Hindu murals from the 17th to 19th centuries) and the tile-filled Pardesi Synagogue, which give you a taste of this richly multicultural district’s past. Kochi Heritage Project runs amazing food walks through Mattancherry, allowing you a (literal) taste of its many different communities. 

In the nature preserves of the Western Ghats, you may spot an elusive wild elephant – and even a tiger. Paddy Photography/Getty Images ©Paddy Photography/Getty Images

Spot rare wildlife in the misty Western Ghats

The serene Western Ghats provide a refuge for all kinds of wild creatures, with many of its untrammeled areas protected as national parks, tiger reserves and wildlife sanctuaries. Catching a glimpse of a wild elephant hidden in the greenery, a langur whirling through the forest canopy or perhaps a great hornbill whooshing high above could well be your most memorable Kerala moment. A few very lucky visitors might even spy an elusive tiger. Chances for wildlife-spotting are fairly good from November to April, with the best months March and April, when animals congregate at watering holes. 

Periyar Tiger Reserve, a 777-sq-km (300-sq-mile) wonderland in Kerala’s southern Ghats, is the state’s most-loved wildlife haven. Its game-changing ecotourism program offers overnight wildlife-watching excursions led by retrained poachers, in addition to day walks within the park itself as well as family-friendly lake cruises. In northern Kerala, the beautiful Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary is part of a sprawling network of biodiverse, interconnecting nature reserves that also includes Bandipur and Nagarhole in neighboring Karnataka. You can easily visit a couple of these over a few days in Wayanad. There’s also great hiking through the region’s spice-producing hills and across its lush tea plantations.

Backed by dramatic red cliffs, the beaches at Varkala are the center of Kerala’s burgeoning surfing scene. Shutterstock © andrijosef / Shutterstock

Catch the south-coast surf waves

India’s now-flourishing surf scene revolves around its southern coast, and several beach towns in Kerala have grown into wave-riding hubs. Laid-back Varkala, just north of Trivandrum, is leading the way, with a string of surf schools catering to both beginners and more-advanced surfers. Soul & Surf helped kick things off here and now runs small-group surf sessions at locations up and down the surrounding coast, as well as a boutique-flavored guesthouse and yoga classes in a breezy rooftop shala. Varkala’s setting – with rust-red cliffs rising from honey-coloured beaches and a revered ancient temple just inland – only adds to the appeal. 

Stay at a family-run homestay

Kerala is India’s homestay capital, and spending a few days based in the home of a local family will hugely enrich your understanding of this region while also supporting local communities. The best hosts will welcome guests with freshly cooked breakfasts, cups of steaming South Indian filter coffee, local stories shared over communal meals and the chance to learn classic Kerala recipes in the family kitchen. A few favorites? Rosegardens, a green-powered heritage home near Munnar; organic spice farm Varnam Homestay in Wayanad; and The Bungalow (a two-room 1930s house with popular cooking classes); and Reds Residency (a contemporary-style family home) in Kochi. 

Dreamy Thottada Beach lies on the less-visited northern coast of Kerala. Daniel J Rao/Shutterstock ©Daniel J. Rao/Shutterstock

My favorite thing to do in Kerala 

On every visit, I find time to wander around Kerala’s quiet northern Malabar Coast, which has miles of often-empty gold-sand beaches backed by endless palms and some of the most delicious food I’ve tried anywhere in India. I love staying at the rustic seafront homestays in Kannur (perhaps Kannur Beach House) and starting days with walks along Thottada Beach. This is also the best place to see Kerala’s ancient theyyam ritual at local temples during the December-to-February season. 

For a treat, I add on a few days at the heavenly Neeleshwar Hermitage near Bekal, a responsibly run beach-and-ayurveda retreat that lets guests enjoy early morning yoga, wonderful Malabar cooking and stylish thatch-roof cottages. 

How much money do I need for Kerala? 

• Hostel dorm bed: ₹400 (US$5) 
• Kochi food tour: ₹2000 (US$24) 
• Homestay room for two: ₹3500 (US$42) 
• Masala dosa: ₹50 (US$0.60) 
• Car with driver per day: ₹3000 (US$36) 
• Filter coffee: ₹10 (US$0.12) 
• Backwaters canoe or kayak tour: ₹1000 (US$12) 

Be sure to dress respectfully at places of worship, such as the extraordinary Paradesi Synagogue in Kochi. Shutterstock NCREATIVES / Shutterstock

More tips for enjoying Kerala 

Follow local dress etiquette

We always recommend following locals’ example in terms of what to wear. You’ll see bikinis on the beach in some places, like Kovalam, though many people in Kerala wear a t-shirt and long shorts when in the sea. Light, breathable fabrics are most comfortable for Kerala’s tropical climate. Dressing conservatively is appropriate for visiting places of worship; some of these welcome respectful visitors, while others may only be open to devotees. It’s best to ask before you enter. 

Take care with the tides 

Strong, dangerous currents can occur all along Kerala’s coast, including in popular beach towns like Varkala and Kovalam. Be careful if you’re swimming in the sea, and heed local guidance about potentially risky currents.

Check about hiking and trekking practicalities

Taking in the Western Ghats’ landscape on a hike is a unique thrill, though organizing walks can feel slightly complicated as regulations on which areas are open for trekking change often, particularly if there are wildlife-related concerns in a particular region. Many walks also require a permit of some kind, which you usually have to arrange only once you’ve arrived. It’s best to enquire locally, or join a guided trek with a reputable operator, such as the well-established Muddy Boots.

Vail’s world-class skiing and snowboarding terrain draws visitors from around the world, it’s true. Yet there’s much more to this Colorado mountain town than snow sports.

Whether you crave a bold outdoors adventure in the Rockies or prefer an afternoon of posh pampering, the Vail Valley offers vacationers a wide range up recreation options.

From hiking with llamas to sampling tasty craft beers, here are 15 ways to get the most out of your next visit to Vail.

1. Sip a flight of craft beers 

Craft beer is huge in Colorado, and the Vail Valley is no exception. Head to one of Vail Brewing Co’s two locations – Eagle Vail or Vail Village – and order a flight to sample a selection of their rotating brews.

Founded in 2014, the veteran-owned brewery makes beers inspired by the valley’s active lifestyle, each one perfect for sipping after a day of hiking or skiing.

Drinks aside, you can get a sense of Vail’s local flavor by bellying up to the bar at any of the restaurants in the valley and chatting with the bartender and fellow patrons.

2. Drive bumper cars on ice 

Remember playfully ramming into your friends and siblings in bumper cars at the local carnival as a kid? Now picture doing it on an ice rink, as a grown-up.

You can relive this fun piece of your childhood in a slightly chillier setting at Vail’s John A Dobson Ice Arena. The arena has 12 colorful ice bumper cars available for kids and adults to rent at a cost of $10 for 15 minutes.

Planning tip: Remember to preregister before you get to the arena. Then bump away.

3. Go trekking with llamas

Backpacking by yourself requires a lot of planning and heavy gear that seems to get heavier as the day goes on. So consider hiring a very special (and very cute) team to help bear your load. The team of llamas at Paragon Guides in the Vail Valley can shoulder your gear on multi-day trekking trips between Colorado backcountry huts.

Planning tip: If you’re strapped for time, the llamas are also available for shorter “take a llama to lunch” excursions.

4. Zoom around the slopes on a snowmobile

You can go pretty darn fast while skiing downhill – but you can really let rip on a snowmobile. These speedy machines are a great way to explore the Vail Valley’s expansive terrain in the winter while also getting your adrenaline pumping.

Numerous local companies offer tours and rentals, including Vail Backcountry Tours, Nova Guides, Sage Outdoor Adventures and Vail Extreme Rentals. 

5. Get out on the water on a stand-up paddle board

Vail’s weather is downright glorious during the summer – think mild 70-degree temperatures, lots of sun and light breezes. While you won’t find many beaches in these mountains, the Vail Valley offers plenty of ways to get out on the water, including on a stand-up paddle board (SUP).

If you’re new to the sport, head out on the flat waters of Nottingham Lake (where you can also rent paddle boards and pedal boats) or book a stay at Piney River Ranch, which offers its guests access to Piney Lake.

Detour: Fancy a more adrenaline-fueled adventure on the water? Try white-water rafting with Timberline Tours to get up close and personal with Colorado’s rivers.

6. Glide around on ice skates

Lace up your skates and aspire to the grace of an Olympic figure skater or the strength of an NHL hockey pro. Ice skating is a fun, family-friendly activity, and the Vail Valley is home to several indoor and outdoor rinks that are perfect for spending an afternoon gliding around on the ice (and warming up with hot chocolate after).

Check out the John A Dobson Ice Arena, the Alderhof Ice Rink and the Solaris Ice Rink in town, as well as the rink at Beaver Creek Village, just a 15-minute drive west of Vail.

7. Hit the links at one of Vail’s golf courses

Since the Rockies are the ever-present backdrop in Vail, it’s no surprise that the area is home to some seriously stunning golf courses. Whether you’re a semi-pro or a beginner, there’s a course for everyone here.

Vail Golf Club is a popular 18-hole public course with views of the Gore Range, while Red Sky Ranch & Golf Club is a premier private club with courses designed by esteemed architects Tom Fazio and Greg Norman. Though membership is required, guests can enjoy the course if they’re staying at one of the club’s partner properties.

Other golf courses to bookmark include EagleVail Golf Club, Beaver Creek Golf Club, and Gypsum Creek Golf Course. Many Vail courses also offer lessons and have a clubhouse that serves food, so that you can make a day of it with the whole family.

8. Go cross-country skiing at the Vail Nordic Center

Vail is famous for its downhill runs – but the valley is also a great place to work up a sweat while cross-country skiing. The Vail Nordic Center offers more than 10 miles of groomed trails reserved for classic or skate skiing, plus 6 miles for snowshoeing and 8 miles for fat biking (a winter-friendly style of biking with big, cushiony tires).

Managed by the Vail Recreation District, the center also offers daily lessons, on-site rentals, and a cafe for warming up after a day in the snow.

Detour: EagleVail also has 5 miles of groomed trails for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, plus terrain designed specifically for kids. 

9. Have a fancy picnic

Instead of packing a dull trail mix to eat during your hike, why not dine in style among the aspens and evergreens?

Local purveyor Picnic Vail specializes in planning picture-perfect picnics that range from simple meat-and-cheese plates to elaborate spreads set up by a “picnic concierge.” Seating, tableware and everything else you’ll need is provided – you just need to show up and enjoy the views while you dine.

10. Zoom across the snow on a dog sled

Watch the snowy winter landscape fly by as excited pups pull your sled through the snow. Mountain Musher, Alpine Adventures and other operators offer guided dog-sledding excursions and tours.

The experience typically includes meeting the dogs and learning about their unique job before they get to work, and your snowy ride begins.

11. Learn about the environment at the Vail Nature Center

Run by the nonprofit Walking Mountains Science Center, the Vail Nature Center is a tranquil place to learn about sustainability, the environment, plants, animals, birds and other nature-focused topics.

Situated on a seven-acre plot once occupied by a 1940s homestead, the free center has interactive walking trails, exhibits and tours about everything from birds to beaver ponds.

Detour: If you have time, also check out Walking Mountains’ other locations: the Avon Tang Campus and the Nature Discovery Center, accessed via the Eagle Bahn gondola at the ski resort.

12. Dash through the snow in a horse-drawn sleigh

Even if you don’t visit over the peak holiday season, there’s no better way to enjoy the Vail Valley’s serene, snow-covered landscape than from the comfort of a horse-drawn sleigh.

Located 20 miles west of Vail, 4 Eagle Ranch offers sleigh rides that start with a warm drink and a bowl of chili, then end with a full-blown, ranch-style dinner and s’mores around the campfire. Sleigh rides are also on offer through Bearcat Stables and Beano’s Cabin.

13. Tap a guide and go fly-fishing

Whether you’re a fly-fishing pro or just starting to (ahem) dip your toes into the water, the Vail Valley’s rivers and creeks are ideal for pursuing this slow-paced and stress-relieving pastime. Head out on your own, or find a guide to show you the best spots on the Gold Medal waters of Gore Creek, the Eagle River or the Colorado River.

Gore Creek Fly Fisherman, Vail Valley Anglers, Minturn Anglers, Colorado Angling Company and other operators offer turnkey guided trips throughout the valley and beyond.

14. Enjoy open-air concerts and performances at Gerald R Ford Amphitheater

On a warm summer evening, there’s nothing like unfolding a blanket on the lawn of Gerald R. Ford Amphitheater, kicking back and listening to an orchestra or watching a ballet performance.

With intriguing architecture and a gorgeous mountain backdrop, the outdoor amphitheater was named after the country’s 38th president, who regularly visited Vail during and after his presidency. (He had a house near Beaver Creek.)

The Amp, as it’s known locally, is one of the most scenic performance venues around and regularly hosts big-name musicians, live theater, dance performances and several festivals.

15. Indulge yourself with a spa treatment

After playing in Vail’s mountains all day, give your body (and mind) a break with a spa treatment. Vail has so many great spas it can be hard to pick just one, but your hotel can be a great place to start. 

The Sonnenalp, the Four Seasons, the Grand Hyatt and The Arrabelle are among several Vail hotels that have world-class spas. Services range from deep-tissue massages to body scrubs, facials, salon services…everything in between.