Month: September 2024

First things first – whittling down the best places in the world to snowboard is a difficult task. The fantastic interconnectivity of France’s Les Trois Vallées, for example, will always go down a storm with snowboarders keen to max out their mileage, while the ridiculously stunning tree runs you’ll find in places like Whistler Blackcomb will never fail to leave other resorts for dust when it comes to the fun factor. This is precisely why, as a former snowboard instructor who taught in Canada and spent winters working in ski hotels in Italy and France, I considered a range of factors, rooting out the resorts that have gone all-out to create snowboarder-friendly terrain, while offering a great range of accommodation. These spots also rank highly for having dedicated infrastructure that allows snowboarders to max out their time on the slopes, which might include squadrons of snow cannons to ensure an abundance of the white stuff or high-speed lifts that will whisk snowboarders to the top of the mountain for their next adrenaline fix. 

With that in mind, if you’re looking for the best places in the world for snowboarding, here are the ski areas worthy of your winter radar.

1. Hokkaidō, Japan

Best for beautiful backdrops

Japan has an almost mythical status amongst both snowboarders and skiers. Not just because of its legendary ‘Japow’ (fine, dry powder snow that doesn’t clump or stick) but because of its aesthetic appeal. Hokkaidō, Japan’s second-largest island is where you’ll find some of its top resorts – places like Niseko, with its pristine, powder-covered slopes and snow-dusted pine trees. The resorts are a cut above when it comes to aesthetics too, whether it’s the recently opened Ritz-Carlton Higashiyama Niseko Village with its in-room onsens and views of Mt Niseko-Annupuri, or the temple-like Kasara Niseko Village Townhouses, filled with Japanese artwork. Take a tactical approach to timing when snowboarding in Japan, and consider avoiding later February, when the slopes fill with visitors celebrating the Lunar New Year. I recommend visiting in March when slopes are generally crowd-free and flights, lift passes and accommodations cost slightly less.

2. Les Trois Vallées, France

Best for freestyle fun 

Les Trois Vallées, the world’s largest skiing and snowboarding area, is a high-altitude French paradise with a seriously high fun factor. It’s got seven resorts – the most famous of which are Méribel, Val Thorens and Courchevel. This spot is a magnet for snowboarders with a love of freestyle, thanks to the presence of a knee-jarring six snowparks and 37 fun zones. It’s also one of Europe’s most snow-sure resorts, which is a major advantage when flinging yourself off rails, kickers and tabletops (for the uninitiated, these are obstacles designed specifically for snowboarders). This is due to its altitude – its 595km (370 miles) of slopes are between 1100km (3608ft) and 3230m (10,600ft) above sea level, and 85% of the ski area is above 1800m (5900ft).

3. Kitzbüheler Alps, Austria

Best for beginners

Learning to snowboard is much easier when you’ve got a beautiful backdrop (as long as you can resist the temptation for a mid-slope selfie) and Austria’s Kitzbüheler Alps are breathtakingly beautiful, as well as a great spot for novices. The area has 20 towns and 900km (559 miles) of pistes, which means there’s plenty of room for beginners. One of my favorite resorts is St Johann in Tyrol, famous for its crowd-free, wide-open slopes. Additionally, a seven-day lift pass for the entire area costs just €319, which means less pressure to spend every waking hour on the slopes.

4. St Moritz, Switzerland

Best for luxury

Snowboarders with a weakness for the finer things in life will love St Moritz, the name of both an alpine town and a ski area, and one which has been a magnet for celebs – ranging from royals to rappers and everyone in between – for decades. This is a place with some of the swankiest ski hotels, such as Badrutt’s Palace with its army of butlers on hand to carry visitors’ snowboards and dole out hot chocolates (or something stronger), and where annual events include the SunIce Festival (often referred to as the Coachella of the Alps) and the Snow Polo World Cup. But don’t get it wrong – with 87 slopes located at between 1798m (5900ft) and 3292m (10,800ft) above sea level, the terrain is outstanding, and there’s a reason it’s hosted the Winter Olympics twice. 

5. Paridiski, France

Best for families 

France’s Paradiski region, which has 425km (264 miles) of perfectly maintained trails, has two of the world’s top resorts at its heart: La Plagne and Les Arcs, connected by the Vanoise Express, a double-decker cable car, which was the biggest, longest and fastest cable car in the world when it opened in 2003. The smaller villages that surround the larger resorts are great bases for families (one example is Peisey Nancroix, which is one of the prettiest and still has fast lift access to the main ski area), and discounted family lift passes mean snowboarding here doesn’t have to break the bank. There are numerous beginner areas in which nervous first-timers can hone their skills, too – La Plagne has six (served by dedicated lifts that are free to use) while each of Les Arcs’ six villages has its own dedicated beginners’ area. There’s also a fantastic range of off-piste activities, ranging from laser tag to bowling.

6. Whistler Blackcomb, Canada

Best for après-ski

Regarded by many snowboarders as the world’s best resort for off-piste fun, Whistler Blackcomb, which has 200 trails spread across 33 sq km (8171 acres), is a place where the fun doesn’t stop when the last lift grinds to a halt. This Canadian resort has everything from buzzing nightclubs (particularly Moe Joe’s, famous for its lively dance parties) and cocktail bars to cosy après-ski hangouts such as the Braidwood Tavern, where you can rest weary legs while sipping beers from local breweries (most of which offer brewery tours, incidentally). The liveliest spots include the Longhorn Saloon, at the base of Whistler Mountain. Anything goes here – be prepared to see plenty of dancing on the tables, and don’t be surprised when the bartender pulls out a champagne cannon to spray the crowd with fizz.

7. Espace Killy, France

Best for advanced snowboarders

Say hello to one of the world’s top ski regions, France’s Espace Killy – 299km (186 miles) of slopes, at a height of between 1548m (5080ft) and 3450m (11,318ft). Although there’s plenty for beginners and intermediates here, it’s a also magnet for daredevils who come to slash through the off-piste powder stashes of the Parc National de la Vanoise and test their freestyle skills in the snow parks (our favorite of which is the DC Park, which has chillout zones and free wifi for that all-important slopeside selfie). The biggest resorts are Tignes, where one of the most challenging runs is the 10km (6-mile) La Sache, which streaks from the top of the L’Aiguille Percée (meaning “the eye of the needle”), and Val d’Isère, where you can challenge yourself on the Face, a run which featured in the 1992 Winter Olympics, when Patrick Ortlieb took a mere two minutes to ski from top to bottom.

Sarajevo is renowned for its intriguing architectural medley, vibrant street life and the irrepressible spirit of its people.

Long renowned for its religious diversity, the capital of Bosnia & Hercegovina entered the world’s consciousness only in the 20th century – thanks to the 1914 assassination that precipitated WWI, the 1984 Winter Olympics and the brutal four-year siege that was a low point of the Yugoslav Wars of the 1990s.

Yet both despite and really because of this potent history, Sarajevo is place few visitors will forget. If you’re heading there for the first time, here’s what you should know. 

When should I go to Sarajevo? 

There’s no bad time to visit Sarajevo; even winter – when the shortest days regularly see below-zero temperatures – has its charm, especially if you enjoy snowy sports. Host of the 1984 Winter Olympics, Sarajevo boasts two Olympic-caliber skiing resorts: Jahorina and Bjelašnica, both about 25km (15.5 miles) from the city center. The skiing season runs from November to March, with February being generally the best time to visit for reliable piste conditions. Both resorts offer hotels near the slopes. If you’re not a fan of the cold, early November has more-manageable temperatures and is also when the three-day Jazz Fest Sarajevo takes place.

Spring and autumn offer ideal conditions for hiking in the mountains surrounding the city. Bjelašnica is a fantastic base for hiking to traditional mountain villages like Umoljani, a remote spot where customs have not changed for hundreds of years. You can also take Sarajevo’s cable car, which climbs some 500m (1640ft) up to a viewpoint 1164m (3820ft) on Mt Trebević, or go to the popular large park Vrelo Bosne. Locals love to go to this collection of lush mini-islands at the Bosna River springs for picnics or restaurant lunches on weekends 

While summer draws tourists to the wider region, including to Mostar and the Croatian coast, Sarajevo stays cooler and is less thronged with tourists. Summer is also packed with cultural events, such as the Sarajevo Film Festival in mid-August. Every July, the wide-ranging arts festival Baščaršijske Noći sees music, theater and all kinds of performances take place in the city center.

How much time should I spend in Sarajevo? 

A weekend in Sarajevo will give you enough time to stroll the streets, eat out at restaurants and party with the locals. But we recommend adding a day or two on to your trip so you can venture out into the mountains and enjoy a hike or two with dramatic scenery. 

Is it easy to get in and around Sarajevo?

Sarajevo is a very walkable city. And it’s easy to get between farther-flung destinations quickly thanks to an extensive network of trams and buses (including both so-called trolley buses and minibuses). You can pre-purchase tickets from kiosks, which are located on the main streets and easy to spot, or buy them directly from the driver as you board. Tickets must be validated once aboard; inspections to catch fare beaters are common.

Sarajevo International Airport is less than 10km (6 miles) southwest of Baščaršija. In town, you should have no problem finding a metered taxi to take you to the airport, yet at the terminal it’s not always easy to find a taxi prepared to turn on the meter.

Top things to do in Sarajevo

Absorb powerful testimony about the city’s recent past

For a powerful look at Sarajevo’s more recent history, visit the War Childhood Museum. This institution grew out of a 2013 book by Jasminko Halilović, who asked survivors of the Sarajevo siege, “What was a war childhood for you?” The museum features 50 of these personal stories, each accompanied by items donated by their authors – such as diaries, toys, and ballet slippers – that reflect their experiences growing up during the war. At the National Museum of Bosnia and Herzegovina, you can visit a permanent exhibit on “Surrounded Sarajevo,” which documents daily life during the 1992–95 siege. 

Get into Sarajevo’s coffee culture

Sarajevo’s cafe scene is an essential part of local life. Don’t miss the legendary Caffe Tito, decorated with WW2 Partisan paraphernalia (there’s even a tank in the garden), and Zlatna Ribica, which is filled with antiques. When the weather is warm, tables spill onto the streets, and friends gather for hours, chatting and people-watching. Be sure to take your time: it’s completely normal to linger over a single drink for hours. If you’re out with locals, remember that the person who does the inviting usually picks up the bill.

Soak in the ambiance of Baščaršija

Spend a morning wandering around Baščaršija (pronounced bash-CHAR-shi-ya), the heart of old Sarajevo and centered on the Sebilj fountain. The quarter’s name is derived from the Turkish for “main market” – and it’s accordingly and lined with stalls, a lively coppersmith alley, grand Ottoman mosques, restaurants and lots of inviting little cafes. 

Take a walking tour through Sarajevo’s history

Follow Sarači St out onto the wide pedestrian boulevard Ferhadija to discover Austro-Hungarian Sarajevo. Some particularly grand examples of this period’s architecture line the riverfront, though the city’s pride and joy are the storybook neo-Moorish Vijećnica (City Hall) and the Old Orthodox Church, dedicated to the archangels Michael and Gabriel. The latter’s current form dates to 1730, but a church has stood on this site for much, much longer – possibly as far back as the 5th century. 

Follow this up by a visit to the Jewish Museum, housed in a 1581 Sephardic synagogue that still sees active worship during Jewish New Year, to learn the story of Sarajevo’s Jewish community.

My favorite thing to do in Sarajevo 

Living outside of my country of origin, I always miss Bosnian food. So when I return, I go for everything: stuffed peppers, tomatoes and onions. The best place to try these is Nanina Kuhinja in Baščaršija. My favorite barbecue staple – and the reason for all the smoke that wafts out of Baščaršija restaurants – is ćevapi (Bosnian kebab). Taste them at Željo, Sarajevo’s most famous ćevabdžinica (kebab shop). Naturally, I also regularly indulge in burek – filo pastry filled with meat, cheese, potato or spinach – and stuffed pita. Step into a buregdžinica (a bakery that specializes in pitas) and don’t forget to order a yogurt to dollop onto your bread.

How much money do I need for Sarajevo?

While prices have shot up in recent years, Sarajevo is still an affordable destination. You will be able to pay by card and Apple Pay in most places, although having some cash on you will come in handy for smaller purchases. 

• Hostel room: from 20KM (US$11) 

• Basic room for two: from 60KM (US$34) 

• Self-catering apartment (including Airbnb): from 70KM (US$40) 

• Public transport ticket: 2KM (US$1) 

• Coffee: 2KM (US$1)

• Museum entry: 6KM (US$3–4)

• Dinner for two: from 25KM (US$11–12)

• Drink at a bar: from 4KM (US$2)