Month: November 2022

West Virginia cranks up the thrills in winter. Downhill skiing. Cross-country skiing. Ice skating. Snow tubing. Sleigh rides. You can even bounce through the forest on an ATV with snow flurries and mountain views as your backdrop. If it’s a wintertime adventure, it’s on tap in the Mountain State. 

But what makes West Virginia almost heaven? The hospitality. From Wheeling to Snowshoe to Winterplace, folks are happy to share the state’s many outdoor riches. 

Basecamps for winter adventure

Snowshoe Mountain: High-octane thrills for daredevils

From Ballhooter to Widowmaker, the names of Snowshoe’s ski runs recall Cheat Mountain’s wild days as a logging and railroad hub, when dangerous jobs and tough machines earned evocative nicknames. Today, the mountain and its thick forests are an epicenter for outdoor fun. With 60 trails and five terrain parks, plus a whopping 180 inches of annual snowfall, Snowshoe – the largest ski resort in the state – earns its regional kudos.  

What sets Snowshoe apart? Its full menu of adventures. Four-wheeler tours bounce across the backcountry while a dozen slopes stay open for night skiing. Sleigh rides, snowmobile tours, a heated outdoor waterslide, and other family-friendly adventures abound. The eight-lane tubing park goes ‘galactic’ at night, with multi-color LED lights bringing the cosmic bling. 

Cabins, condos, and lodge rooms are on offer for overnight stays. Anchoring the mountaintop Village – and just steps from its many restaurants and bars – Allegheny Springs is a convenient launchpad for post-adventure conviviality. And ski deals? The famed Ikon Pass, sold from spring through early December, offers unlimited skiing at 15 US destinations. And one last tip – the multi-colored sunsets from the western ridgeline may be your favorite memory. 

Canaan Valley Resort State Park: Where snow tubers live their best lives

Snow tubers, hold tight for an extended ride at Canaan Valley Resort, where the powdery run drops on…and on…and on. Stretching nearly a quarter-mile, the multi-lane snow tube course at Canaan Valley is the longest in the Mid-Atlantic. Best part? No trudging back up the hill for another ride. Just hop aboard the “magic carpet” for an easy glide to the top. The Allegheny Mountains and the high-elevation Canaan Valley provide the scenic backdrop for ice skaters here, while high-elevation forests cast a captivating spell along 22 miles of cross-country skiing and snowshoeing trails. For skiers and snowboarders, forty-seven trails await.

Cabins and cottages feature wood-burning fireplaces, while lodge rooms flash a bit of modern style with bright décor, striking prints, and paintings of outdoor scenes. The resort is the perfect retreat for city dwellers, as it’s only 180 miles from Washington, DC, and 145 miles from Pittsburgh.

Winterplace Ski Resort: Calling families, newbies, and night skiers

Got a passel of kids? Or a group of novice skiers? Then pull off I-77 for a no-stress day on the slopes at Winterplace in southern West Virginia. The Skiwee and Snow Explorers classes will have younger kids schussing down the 1.25-mile Panorama Trail in no time. New skiers can appreciate the mountain’s 603-foot drop, which isn’t as dizzying as the 1000 foot plunges at resorts further north. And the ten convenient lifts whisk groups to the park’s 90+ skiable acres in a flash. More than 3/4s of the trails are rated beginner or intermediate, and once you’ve got your skis under you, enjoy skiing under the stars on the 26 runs open for night skiing. Still not sure about skis? With 14 lanes, the snow tubing park is the largest in the state.

Bunk beds are available for groups at on-site cabins, but your best bet for overnight accommodations is twenty minutes north at the Resort at Glade Springs. It has a variety of rooms across its inn, manor houses, and multi-room lodges.

Timberline Mountain: Revamped hotspot for skiers and snowboarders

Still aglow following a $10 million makeover in 2020, Timberline impresses guests with a modernized lodge and two new lifts, including a high-speed six-person lift, the first in the state. The resort keeps its focus on skiers and snowboarders, with a 1000-foot vertical drop and 36 trails across 91 acres. Intermediate and expert skiers will find lots to love here, while beginners can test their skills on the Salamander. At two miles, it’s the longest run in the Southeast. Snow Squall Terrain Park welcomes beginners while Thunder Snow kicks it up a notch with sculpted jumps and technical rails. 

The Lodge has twenty rooms, but there are plenty of overnight options ten miles north in the adjoining towns of Thomas and Davis. These include the Cooper House Bed & Cocktail and its sister property, the lovably retro Billy Motel. For apres-ski, make your way to Mountain State Brewing, then see who’s playing at the Purple Fiddle. 

Oglebay: Low-key winter sports and a dazzling light show

Wheeling’s sprawling Oglebay Park is a four-season fun center. In winter, the Nutting Winter Sports Complex keeps active visitors happy with skiing and snowboarding on an adjacent slope. With one lift and a low-stress 168-foot vertical drop, the run works well for younger kids and those seeking a quick hour or two of exercise. Snow tubing is also offered, and ice skaters can take a few turns on the rink in nearby Wheeling Park. The big draw in winter? The Winter Festival of Lights. This six-mile drive across the park passes 90 attractions illuminated by more than one million lights (Nov-Jan). Stay overnight in Wilson Lodge or one of the cottages or estate houses.

Hit the trails: Snowshoeing, cross-country skiing, sledding, and ATV adventuring 

White Grass Ski Touring Center

The backdrop brings the magic at White Grass, where more than 37 miles of cross-country skiing trails unfurl along the Canaan Valley and climb forested slopes, reaching a high point of 4463 feet at Weiss Knob. The view on a perfect winter day? Snow-covered trees, the gentle Allegheny Mountains, and bright blue skies. Twelve warming shelters with snacks dot the course. Snowshoeing is permitted on the trails, as long as you stay to the side. Another high point is the on-site White Grass Cafe, a cozy natural foods cafe that’s considered a destination for dining for its sandwiches, soups, and housemade desserts. Lessons, tours, and rentals are also available.

Elk River Inn & Cabins

Touring adventures are a bit more intimate – and wild – at 40-year-old Elk River, a lodge-and-cabin complex eleven miles from Snowshoe. Tucked in the vast Monongahela National Forest, it’s an excellent alternative for outdoor adventure if you’ve had your fill of downhill skiing and busy slopes. There are 3.2 miles of trails near the lodge and another 16 miles off Hwy 150. Be ready to drop off the grid – there is no cell service on the trails. Rentals, lessons, and an area map are available on-site. Stop by for an update on trail conditions, too. 

Blackwater Falls State Park

The star attraction at this state park in the Highlands? Amber-colored cascades that drop 57 feet into a tree-lined gorge. Icicles and snow-covered rocks flank the rushing falls in winter, creating a dramatic winter scene. But it’s the sledding that brings the big wows – at least from the kids. The wide and powdery glide through the forest here stretches more than a quarter of a mile, making it the longest sled run on the east coast. The return to the top on their Magic Carpet, which rises through a narrow tunnel of trees, keeps the fun running full-time. Sleds are provided with a ticket purchase. 

Ten miles of trails are also open for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing, with rentals available. Spend the night in the park’s mid-century lodge or a fully furnished cabin in the woods. For an apres sled, head to Hellbender Burritos for green chili and a hefty burrito (currently take-out only) and a Holy Citra! Double IPA at Stumptown Ales.

Hatfield-McCoy Trail System 

A thousand-mile network of all-terrain vehicle (ATV) trails are open year-round for rugged backcountry adventuring in southern West Virginia – site of the legendary Hatfield & McCoy family feud. With snow and ice, winter riding can be challenging on the most difficult trails, but there are plenty of easy routes to tackle in colder months. There are ten trail systems within the network. The Pinnacle Creek trail system has pretty views of the Appalachians, while trails in the Buffalo Mountain and Devil Anse systems swing by historic sites related to the feud and the Coal Wars. For information about permits and ATV rental locations, visit www.trailsheaven.com. There is a Hatfield & McCoy Trails Welcome Center in Julian, twenty miles south of Charleston.

Winter adventures at scenic locales

When there is snow on the ground, the Greenbrier resort in White Sulphur Springs celebrates the season with horse-drawn sleigh rides – complete with warm blankets, of course. Another fun winter activity at the historic resort? Ice skating on the new outdoor rink. The rinkside fire pit will warm you up after that last triple-axel. Sleigh rides and the ice-skating rink are open to guests and the public.

Cross-country skiers searching for grand views can explore the woodsy hiking trails at Pipestem Resort State Park then unwind on-site at McKeever Lodge or one of the 26 cabins – equipped with wifi and fireplaces. The lodge overlooks the south rim of the Bluestone River Gorge and is located 35 miles south of Beckley. Fans of winter hiking can follow eight miles of trails in nearby Bluestone State Park then get cozy inside one of the park’s fourteen year-round cabins. All are fully furnished and feature modern kitchens and stone fireplaces. 

The quiet winter beauty of the 78-mile Greenbrier River Trail is good for the soul. This multi-use rail trail connects the outskirts of Lewisburg with Cass, a former logging town at the base of Cheat Mountain in Pocahontas County. After a snowfall, the trail and its bridges and tunnels are a photogenic wonderland for cross-country skiers and snowshoers. Bed down at the white-columned General Lewis Inn in Lewisburg or one of the restored Company Cabins in Cass Scenic Railroad State Park.

France’s reputation for exceptional food is legendary. Now, there’s an extra incentive for gourmet travelers to book a trip for next year.

In a first for a country where the gastronomic meal has Unesco protection, Hauts-de-France (Upper, or Northern France), has been awarded the European Region of Gastronomy for 2023. Alongside producers, artisans and chefs showcasing their talents, visitors can expect activities and events, with workshops, food tours and festivals among the year’s projects zeroing in on cultural heritage, a circular economy and hyper-local, farm-to-fork sustainability. 

15 best things to do in France

Set above Paris like a crown, the country’s northernmost region is home to splendid Gothic-architecture-filled cities (such as Arras, Amiens, Laon and the lively capital, Lille) and wild, windswept landscapes, as well as famously welcoming, generous inhabitants. But its food scene has often been overlooked – until now. The recognition by IGCAT (International Institute of Gastronomy, Culture, Arts and Tourism) provides an opportunity to introduce new audiences to its seasonal produce and specialties. 

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Orchards and fields (even marshland floating market gardens) in Hauts-de-France’s agricultural heartland grow apples, pears, leeks, carrots, cauliflowers, beetroot, artichokes and the “pearl of the north”, endives, with lush pastures producing cream (including sugar-whipped Chantilly, created at its namesake chateau) and cheeses such as Maroilles (soft cow’s milk cheese with a nutty, mushroom-like flavor), Mimolette (semi-hard, orange-colored cow’s milk cheese with a fruity aroma) and Chaud Biloute (brine-washed cow’s milk cheese typically served warm and gooey from the oven). Waters teem with seafood along the luminous blue-gray Côte d’Opale (Opal Coast), framed by chalk cliffs and home to France’s most important fishing port Boulogne-sur-Mer, landing upwards of 70 different species daily, to the vast tides and wetlands (and France’s largest saffron production) of the Baie de Somme estuary.  

Culinary influences stretch beyond its borders: Hauts-de-France adjoins the English Channel and Belgium (with Luxembourg, the Netherlands and Germany nearby), bringing distinct accents to its epicurean offerings, from its renowned beer (signature dishes from the region that incorporate it include Welsh, beer-melted cheese poured over ham on toast then grilled golden and topped with a fried egg) to irresistible sweets such as palets de dames (icing-sugar-glazed cookies), gaufres (waffles) and chocolate.  

The essential guide to France’s best regions

Eat 

Michelin-starred jewels crafting exquisite, cutting-edge dishes include La Table du Connetable in Chantilly, La Grenouillère in an old La Madelaine-sous-Montreuil farmhouse, La Liégeoise on the Côte d’Opale and Haut Bonheur de la Table in pretty village Cassel. 

Earthier estaminets (traditional Flemish cafe/bistros with wooden tables and antiques) serve hearty favorites like carbonnade (braised beef slow-cooked with brown sugar, gingerbread and beer). 

The 10 best food experiences in France

Drink 

Beer’s origins here stretch back to Celtic times. Look out for award-winning breweries including Brasserie du Pays Flamand, Brasserie Castelain and Brasserie Lilloise.  

Champagne vineyards extend into Hauts-de-France’s southeast around Château-Thierry, accounting for 10% of French production.

France’s best wine regions: a guide to the finest touring routes, tastings and terroir

Stay 

Lille makes an ideal base. Linked by fast trains to Paris (50 minutes), Brussels (35 minutes) and London (90 minutes), France’s fourth-largest metropolitan area has handy road and rail connections to the rest of the region, and wide-ranging accommodations, from hip hostels (like The People) to design hotels (eg L’Arbre Voyageur) and historic splendor (L’Hermitage Gantois).

Georgina Lawton, journalist, and author of ‘Black Girls Take World’, shares her favorite spots from a recent trip to the island of Bermuda.

Bermuda was a place that, prior to this trip, felt like an elusive and exclusive fantasy location to me; a dream-like island of pink sands and crystalline waters that seemed filtered. Then a college friend moved to Bermuda for work recently, and suddenly, a trip was within my reach. I could finally see if the island was as beautiful as I had imagined. I visited in mid-October when the weather was still around 80F, and the tourist crowds had largely eased.

I usually start the day in Bermuda with…

Bermuda’s fish sandwich — an island staple. After a comfortable mid-morning flight with Jetblue from New York City, I made it my mission to hunt down the best fish sandwich on the island for brunch. I was looking for a local catch that was floured and fried and served on thick bread layered with tomatoes and tartar sauce.

Locals pointed me toward Café Olé in Hamilton, where I found exactly what I was looking for. The cafe’s take on the fish sandwich is door-stopper-sized, packed full of breaded rockfish, and served in mild-flavored raisin bread. Totally mouth-watering and incredibly filling. 

Taste the best of Bermuda’s food and drink: flavors that you shouldn’t miss

In Bermuda, you must try…

Renting a Twizzy: an electric mini car. With just two seats set tandem-style inside a four-foot-wide vehicle, getting in and out of a Twizzy can feel a bit awkward, but once you’re inside, it’s a pretty enjoyable and surprisingly smooth ride. Pay as you go or pay a flat rate of about $100 to keep the car for the whole day.

My friend and I used it to whizz between the main beaches — and received several waves from other drivers doing the same thing. Parking and electric charging points for Twizzy cars are easy to come by. 

The top spot for dinner and drinks in Bermuda is…

Pearl, a sushi restaurant in Hamilton. With terrace views of Hamilton harbor, Japanese-trained chefs, and an extensive sake menu, Pearl feels like an occasion: a fabulous date spot or special place to treat a friend.

Fresh fish is everywhere in Bermuda, and at Pearl, it comes in the form of creatively prepared sushi packed full of flavor. The sashimi practically melts in the mouth. If you’re craving maki rolls, try the crispy Kotzu Pearl, which contains lobster, crab, avocado, and spicy mayo.

The best times to visit Bermuda, from cheap winter breaks to summer sun

In Bermuda, I stayed in…

The Loren at Pink Beach, a five-star boutique hotel. Built along a hillside on Bermuda’s southeast coast, the incredibly stylish rooms at The Loren come with views of the Atlantic. A marine-themed restaurant at the hotel serves everything from crab cakes for breakfast to Bermudian fish and chips. There’s also an onsite gym and gorgeous infinity pool for when you finally manage to peel yourself from that sunlounger and a direct-access private pink-hued beach. Even though it’s fancy and considered the ‘it’ place to stay in Bermuda, the service is friendly and never feels stuffy.

I recommend booking a Phyto Aromatic Zen Harmony massage at the hotel’s spa; probably one of the best massages I’ve ever had — firm but relaxing. 

In Bermuda, I got away from the crowds by…

Sunbathing at Cooper’s Island Nature Reserve. You might have heard of Horseshoe Bay, a popular beach that attracts a steady stream of visitors year-round, but my pick for a relaxing beach day is Cooper’s Island. I found it incredibly calm and dazzlingly beautiful: home to pristine sands that are (almost) pink, unspoiled walks with rocky coves, and turquoise water that you don’t have to share with crowds of people.

9 things to do in Bermuda in between beach days

From Bermuda, you should bring back…

Outerbridge’s Original sherry pepper sauce. This is essentially the taste of Bermuda, bottled. This dark brown sauce is as piquant as a shot of alcohol. In Bermuda it’s often used as an added kick in local cocktails and to season soups, meats, and stews. 

Georgina Lawton traveled from New York City to Bermuda with JetBlue. Lonely Planet writers do not accept freebies in exchange for positive coverage.