Two painters, two women, two portraits — one fascinating story of artistic influence

Left, Madame Moitessier, 1856 Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres, oil on canvas, The National Gallery, London and right, Woman with a Book, 1932, Pablo Picasso, oil on canvas, The Norton Simon Foundation, Estate of Pablo Picasso / Artists Rights Society(ARS), New York

Jean-Auguste-Dominique Ingres and Pablo Picasso painted these portraits more than 75 years apart. But there’s a clear connection between the two — and you can now see them on display together.

(Image credit: The National Gallery, London / The Norton Simon Foundation, Estate of Pablo Picasso / Artists Rights Society(ARS), New York)

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Author: Susan Stamberg

The best time to visit South Carolina

South Carolina is famous for the southern-charm-filled cities of Charleston and Beaufort, sparkling sea islands with Gullah heritage, and the up-and-coming capital city of Columbia.

When planning a visit, there’s no shortage of things to do – from prime fishing lakes and streams to champion trees towering above record-breaking bottomland forests or hiking trails through waterfall-filled woodlands.


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But before you book your trip, make a list of the top things you want to do in South Carolina and check the weather forecast. The last thing you want is to be sweating through Charleston’s cobbled streets in the unforgiving humidity or going to the beach during a hurricane threat.

Here’s our guide to the best time to visit South Carolina.

A couple sitting in deck chairs on Myrtle Beach in South Carolina
Escape the heat and humidity of high season on Myrtle Beach © wbritten / iStockphoto / Getty Images

The high season is the best time to go to the beach (June-August)

There’s no way around it – summer in this subtropical state is miserably hot and humid. The best place to escape the heat is along the palm-bedecked coast. Expect crowds, higher prices and lower availability. Pack sunscreen, sunglasses, and beachwear.

Consider visiting attractions that have air-conditioning, such as Columbia’s plethora of excellent museums like the South Carolina State Museum and Columbia Museum of Art. The restaurant scene in the capital city is a mix of traditional favorites and pioneering newcomers with Terra and SmallSUGAR at the top of the list.

Fishing and splashing in the Upstate lakes and rivers are an option, too. The temps are slightly cooler as you travel toward the hills of Appalachia, in the state’s northwestern corner.

The hardest time to get a room (or a cheap flight) in Charleston is during Spoleto (Memorial Day to mid-June), the several-week event when the city’s churches, theaters and outdoor spaces are filled with performances.

The city sees fewer visitors from July to mid-September, thanks to the heat. On the flip side, it’s a good time to go if you want to snag dinner reservations at one of the city’s coveted restaurants. Bring an umbrella to protect yourself from sudden thunderstorms.

Enjoy outdoor festivals during shoulder season (April/May and September/October)

South Carolina is in glorious bloom in April and May, with relatively fewer visitors and mild, sunny weather. Festivals explode throughout the state, celebrating food, wine, music and horses.

This is also a good time to explore the offerings of Charleston, Columbia, Beaufort and Greenville. Keep in mind that early spring is tornado season and there’s a chance of thunderstorms – pack light layers, an umbrella, and a jacket.

Fall brings spectacular foliage in the mountains and tolerable temps throughout. It’s a great time for mountain hikes, scenic drives, and golfing. Festivals continue with an autumnal theme, including beer, shrimp, food, and music. Bring a sweater for cooler nights.

Low season is perfect for budget travelers (November-March)

As winter blankets the land, the tourist crush subsides, and accommodation rates become less expensive.

The temperatures are mild, with crisp nights and brief cold spells. Along the coast, the average daytime temp is 60°F – perfect for a walk on the beach. Bear in mind that the farther inland you go toward Appalachia, the cooler it gets – nighttime temps can drop to freezing.

There is some snowfall, though snowstorms are rare. Pack a mid-weight jacket and sweaters. Though you’ll spot locals wearing scarves and mittens, it’s generally in the interests of fashion rather than warmth!

When is hurricane season?

Hurricane season kicks in late August through October, with September being the highest risk. Tornados threaten again in November.

Avoid the crowds in January

The state’s coldest month, the average daytime temp is 58°F – not too bad for a winter’s day. Though if you head to the mountains, the thermometer can dip into the 40s and below. Accommodations are at their lowest rates.

Key Events: Restaurant Week South Carolina, Charleston Boat Show

Nab a hotel deal in February

Winter is on its way out and temperatures start to climb, though it’s still chilly and there can be rain. Festivals gain momentum. Camellias start to bloom, especially gorgeous at Middleton Place. There are still deals to be found for hotels.

Key Events: Southeastern Wildlife Exhibition in Charleston, Lowcountry Oyster Festival in Charleston, Hilton Head Island Seafood Festival

Yellow Bird Pine Warbler Perched on Branch
Fans of bird watching should visit in March to witness the incredible start of the spring migration in South Carolina © Teresa Kopec / Getty Images

Go birdwatching in March

March can be wet, though temperatures are mild. Wildflowers start appearing everywhere. Birds start their spring migration along the Atlantic Flyway; hot spots include Huntington Beach, considered by many to be the best bird-watching spot along the East Coast. Triple Crown equestrian events take place in Aiken.

Key Events: Charleston Food & Wine Festival, Craftsmen’s Classics Art & Craft Festival in Columbia

Hike amidst wildflowers in April

Azaleas and dogwoods bloom, and the temps are mild, making this the ideal time to hike, bike, cycle and golf.

Extraordinary spring wildflowers ignite the landscape from April into May, from the Upstate to the Lowcountry. Local farmer’s markets open up throughout the region, their stalls laden with squash, zucchini, and sweet peas.

In late spring look for soft-shell crabs – Atlantic blue crabs that have recently molted their hard shell and are deep-fried or pan-seared and often tucked into a sandwich. You’ll find them on menus across the state, though the best places are in the Lowcountry.

Key Events: Aiken Horse Show, World Grits Festival in St. George, Charleston Jazz Festival, Historic Pendleton Spring Jubilee, RBC Heritage Classic Golf Tournament in Hilton Head

Visit Farmer’s markets in May

Everything, including prices, starts to heat up. Water parks and other summer attractions open their doors. Look for Georgia peaches, field peas, and okra at farmer’s markets and roadside stands.

Key Events: Freedom Weekend Aloft in Anderson, Original Gullah Festival in Beaufort, Artisphere in Greenville, Cook Out Southern 500 in Darlington

Head to the river in June

This month is one of the best times to be outdoors in South Carolina – summer wildflowers line the trails and the river rafting in the mountains is sublime. It starts heating up toward the end of the month. Shrimp is plentiful along the coast into late December.

Key Events: Brookgreen Gardens Art Festival, South Carolina Festival of Flowers in Greenwood

An outdoor stage at the High Water Festival in South Carolina
High season welcomes a vast array of fun outdoor festivals in South Carolina © Astrida Valigorsky/Getty Images

Hit the beach in July

The state’s hottest month, it’s miserably warm and muggy (the seasonal norm is 94°F, plus humidity). It’s also the state’s wettest month, with an average of 5.5 inches of rain. It’s a good time to head to the beach or the mountains. Pack an umbrella, just in case.

Fourth of July events explode throughout the state, with some of the best in Charleston, Myrtle Beach, Columbia, and Greenville.

Lake Murray hosts thousands of purple martins, which depart from their summer home on Doolittle Island in a flurry of flapping wings, returning at dusk in another spectacular show.

Key Events: Beaufort Water Festival, South Carolina Peach Festival in Gaffney, The Sweetgrass Festival in Mount Pleasant

Keep an eye on hurricanes in August

Peak tourism season arrives, with the beaches especially crowded with visitors. Keep an eye on hurricanes potentially brewing along the coast.

Key Events: Gullah/Geechee Nation International Music & Movement Festival in Charleston, Low Country Jazz Festival in North Charleston

Feast on food and wine in September

The heat slowly retreats, which is why September (and October) offer an inordinate amount of food, wine, music and arts festivals. Fall colors begin to show, especially in the Upstate, and U-pick farms are abundant. The oyster season kicks off; watch for oyster roasts along the coast.

Key Events: Euphoria in Greenville, MOJA Arts Festival in Charleston, South Carolina Tobacco Festival in Lake City, South Carolina Apple Festival in Westminster

Sports season kicks off in October

The festival season continues, including house tours, food-and-wine fests, and the state fair. Football is in the air everywhere; good luck finding a room in Columbia and Clemson if the Gamecocks and Tigers are playing at home. Polo and steeplechase tournaments take place in Aiken.

Fall foliage in the Upstate is at its crowning glory (though you’ll see color well into December in some places); enjoy it along trails in state parks including Caesars Head and Table Rock, which you can access along the Cherokee Foothills Scenic Highway.

Late October into November is peak monarch butterfly migration season when thousands of these orange-and-black beauties stop by Lowcountry beaches to fill up with nectar; they prefer groundsel trees, a large shrub with stiff, spreading branches.

Key Events: South Carolina Jazz Festival, The Fall Tours of Homes and Gardens, Beaufort Shrimp Festival, South Carolina State Fair in Columbia

Bring your umbrella in November

The temps start dipping into the 50s, with the possibility of rain. Fall foliage continues in the Upstate.

Key Events: Hilton Head Island Concours d’Elegance & Motoring Festival, Dickens Christmas Show & Festivals in Myrtle Beach, South Carolina Pecan Festival in Florence

Ring in the holidays in December

As the temperatures cool – averaging in the mid-50s – the holiday season brings parades, holiday lights, and other festive events.

Key Events: Beaufort International Film Festival, Elgin Catfish Stomp, Holiday Lights on the River in Columbia

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How to get around in Puerto Rico

​​Congestion is a part of life in Puerto Rico, where everyone and their grandmother owns a car, and driving is the predominant mode of transportation. This is also due to Puerto Rico being a large island, the dearth of public transportation and numerous far-flung destinations. 

That said, it’s perfectly possible to navigate the capital of San Juan by bus, metro, taxi and on foot. As for the rest of the island, here are the best ways to get around.


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An old bus driving through San Juan in Puerto Rico
Service may be erratic but buses are a cheap way to get around Puerto Rico © Getty Images / iStockphoto

San Juan has a bus network and a metro system

San Juan is the only city in Puerto Rico that’s served by an extensive network of clean, air-conditioned city buses. However, route maps and information can be hard to find and few bus stops indicate which buses stop where. Service can also be erratic, with wait times between 30 and 60 minutes. Ask around at bus stops, where veteran riders will offer advice.

San Juan is the only city in Puerto Rico with an inexpensive, efficient metro. Trains run every 16 minutes daily between 5:30am and 11:30pm, connecting the popular neighborhood of Santurce with the university campus of Río Piedras and shopping centers in Hato Rey and Torrimar with far-flung Guaynabo and Bayamón.

Cycling on the road in Puerto Rico is an extreme sport

To put it bluntly, cycling across Puerto Rico is foolhardy at best, and tantamount to a death wish at worst. Cyclists have to contend with multiple hazards, from nightmare traffic and poor road conditions to dangerous drivers, and a general lack of awareness about cyclists’ needs. Cycling after dark is a major no-no.

…except in San Juan, where there are designated bike lanes

Recreational cycling is possible in San Juan, where there’s a pleasant and safe cross-city route along the shoreline from Old San Juan through Condado and Isla Verde as far as Piñones (the last part is on a designated bike lane). Rent a variety of well-maintained bikes, including mountain, road, electric, hybrid and cruisers from San Juan Bike Rentals – it’ll even deliver your wheels to your hotel.

Driving is the only option in some parts of Puerto Rico

Many of Puerto Rico’s roads are in poor shape, especially after being battered by recent hurricanes. Outside the well-maintained Expressway toll roads, bumps, potholes and broken guard rails are a fact of life, along with erratic driving, animals wandering out onto the road and more cars per square mile than any other place on earth.

Despite all that, having your own wheels is the most convenient way of getting around outside the capital, and downright essential if you want to roam the countryside, visit national parks, or explore the spectacular 167-mile Ruta Panorámica that runs along the mountainous spine of the island from Mayagüez to Cayey.

Car-rental rates in San Juan are very competitive; elsewhere, not so much. A car costing US$30 or less a day in San Juan will cost US$60 or more in smaller cities and on the islands. Some companies prohibit taking rentals from the mainland to Culebra and Vieques.

All of the major international car-rental companies operate on the island, especially at the airport in San Juan. There are also local firms, particularly in smaller cities and on the islands.

Local tip: If you’re limiting your trip to San Juan, a rental car is a liability; the traffic is terrible, and parking is scarce. Use public transportation and taxis instead. Parking is a real problem in central Ponce also.

Ferries head for some islands, otherwise hire a private boat

Frequent daily ferry services serve the islands of Vieques and Culebra, departing from Ceiba’s ferry terminal a 25-minute drive south of the port of Fajardo. Up-to-date ferry schedules and tickets are available online; arrive at the terminal at least an hour before the boat departs. In January, if you’re lucky, you can sometimes spot humpback whales from the ferry. Services can be delayed and/or cancelled altogether during hurricane season (early June to late November). There are no ferries between Vieques and Culebra.

There are also no ferries to tiny, uninhabited Isla Mona – an adventure destination for divers and wildlife lovers – off Puerto Rico’s west coast. The only way to get there is by private boat with accredited operators such as Acampa Nature Adventures or Adventures Tourmarine.

Internal flights are limited and usually not worth it

Daily domestic flights connect San Juan’s Luis Muñoz Marín airport with Mayagüez on the mainland’s west coast, and with the offshore islands of Culebra and Vieques off the east coast. However, given how it takes two hours to drive from San Juan to Mayagüez and an hour to drive from San Juan to Fajardo before taking a (much cheaper) ferry to Culebra or Vieques, there is little reason to fly.

Locals walk along the Princess Walk Promenade in San Juan, Puerto Rico
Exploring on foot isn’t possible everywhere in Puerto Rico but a stroll along the promenade in San Juan is always a pleasure © Getty Images / iStockphoto

Walking is a pleasure in the historic centers of San Juan and Ponce

Old San Juan and the historical center of Ponce are wonderfully walkable and a pleasure to explore on foot. The same cannot be said about the majority of Puerto Rico’s towns and cities, with their often nonexistent sidewalks and cookie-cutter urban sprawl.

Públicos are the cheapest way to travel the island

The cheapest way to get around Puerto Rico is by públicos – public minibuses that run prescribed routes during daylight hours, either between places such as San Juan and Ponce or Mayagüez, or short-haul. Públicos are vans with the destination clearly written in the front window, leaving once they’re full. Some are busiest with commuters in the early morning and evening, while others run to remote destinations and might leave you stranded due to their infrequency. Taking a público is a great local experience, provided you don’t mind being very hot and squeezed in with a million other passengers. There is no central source of info about schedules or prices; just turn up at a público terminal or van stand near a smaller town’s central plaza, and ask around.

Taxis and Uber are readily available in larger cities

Taxis are ubiquitous in San Juan and larger cities around the island. It’s often quicker to walk out to a taxi rank or flag down a passing taxi than get through to one on the phone. Meters are hardly ever used, so always agree on the price before setting off. The one exception is San Juan: “tourist taxis” are regulated by the Puerto Rico Tourism Company, and fixed rates are determined by the zone your destination falls into.

Uber is popular, inexpensive, and covers San Juan, much of the north coast (including Arecibo and Fajardo), as well as the eastern half of the island (Caguas, Fajardo) and part of the south coast (Guayama and around). It doesn’t cover Ponce, Cabo Rojo or Mayagüez. Within San Juan, taxi lobbying groups have pushed for legislation that prohibits Uber from picking up or dropping passengers off at the airport or at certain hotels.

Accessible transportation in Puerto Rico is improving

Travel is becoming easier for those with mobility issues thanks to the Americans with Disabilities Act (ADA). Public transportation services (such as San Juan’s public bus and metro, plus taxis) are now required by law to be wheelchair-accessible. On top of that, there are wheelchair-accessible shuttles from the airport, while Equipos Pro Impedidos Caguas offers wheelchair-accessible vehicle rentals.

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