How to Make a Lasting Impact on Those Around You

This article is an installment of The Everyday Warrior series, featuring advice, key interviews, and tips to live a life of impact, growth, and continual learning.

In 2014, I deployed back to Afghanistan, this time as a Special Forces Company Operations Sergeant. In the Special Forces world, company operations control an area of operations, or AO, and the six SF Teams within it. We primarily manage assets, coordinate operations, and provide material and logistical support to war-fighting Green Berets. Company Operations are referred to as Special Operations Detachment Bravo, or the B-team, for short. Let me be honest here, the B-Team is staffed with experienced operators who would rather be on Operational Detachment Alpha (ODA), where the action is.

Why wouldn’t they? If done right, the B-team capitalizes on the expertise of these senior operators to make sure the A-teams are taken care of. The expectation is that senior operators can predict what the ODAs need and be proactive in pushing assets instead of reacting to requests. The hard reality is that the Operations Sergeant—me, in the case of this deployment—spends a lot of time wrangling guys into staying put, where they’re needed. The B-team operators feel it’s their job to find any way possible to get out on operations—any and every operation.

In addition to the collection of always-hungry-to-leave B-team Green Berets, the SF company manages all the support staff. Non-SF qualified soldiers take care of everything from vehicle maintenance, supply, and the always-important chow hall. Soldiers need to eat!

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I’m sure when you started this article you were hoping to read about our nations elite warriors flawlessly executing operations against the enemy. Sorry, we’re heading down a different path. I’m going to tell you a remarkable story about an Army cook who made a lasting impact on 88 battle-hardened Green Berets. I would keep reading if I were you, it’s worth your time.

The “hero” of our story is a young sergeant named Brian. SGT Brian was not an imposing soldier. He was a little on the short side, a little on the skinny side, quiet and polite. What SGT Brian lacked in physical stature, he made up for with his impact.

I started the deployment with SGT Brian cooking for my B-team. We had the biggest population, close to 100 people, and SGT Brian had the most experience. Of all the benefits to being in Special Forces—better training, great equipment, more control of our operations—sadly the food while deployed to Afghanistan was not one of them. What I quickly learned was SGT Brian was an expert in his kitchen and could make magic happen. What I learned next has stayed with me ever since.

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SGT Brian knew what his responsibilities were and found every way possible to maximize his impact from his role. I was a little taken back when he asked me if he could start attending the daily operations briefing. I was excited when he manipulated his schedule to find ways to have hot food ready as units were leaving and when they got back in the wire. I was impressed when he found ways to mentor subordinate soldiers at other camps to do the same thing where they were. SGT Brian always looked for ways to make an impact. He prioritized his immediate responsibilities, then improved every aspect of his role. He learned the schedules of everyone in the camp and found ways that gave everyone access to good, hot meals when they needed them, not only at traditional mealtimes. SGT Brian built relationships, made friends, and improved the lives of those he served, and made one part of my job and my life a little nicer considering where I was.

And then my boss sent him away…What the hell?

I knew it was the right thing to do. I just didn’t want it to happen. We all saw how SGT Brian’s impact had improved our situation. The stresses of sustained combat operations were starting to take their toll on the A-teams in the fight and sending our “morale officer” to help was absolutely the right call. SGT Brian went from site to site on a four-week rotation and every time he made a difference. When it was time for him to rotate, teams produced every excuse as to why he had to stay. They tried every sob story available to them and attempted to manipulate operations to support their efforts to keep him. I was impressed with their creativity, but SGT Brian was always sent on to the next camp.

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It’s safe to say most soldiers want to test their grit in combat. Cooks don’t get that chance often. It’s also true that space on a combat patrol is limited, and leaders are very selective about who they can and will take. A true testament to SGT Brian’s impact was when teams started to ask if they could take him on patrol to help him earn his Combat Action Badge, an award that Soldiers get when they are in direct actions against an enemy. I’m not sure how many cooks in the Army have earned the CAB, but my Special Forces Teams made sure he got the chance to earn his. In our world, there’s no better way to honor someone than to be willing to take them into the fight.

I learned a lot from SGT Brian on that deployment. He set the example for everyone around him and did it in the humblest way. He could have run his chow hall like everyone else, but he choose to be better. He lost a lot of sleep by working the odd schedules to make sure those around him were cared for. He sacrificed his personal comfort and never asked for anything other than ways he could help. SGT Brian was the best example of servant leadership I’ve ever witnessed.

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SGT Brian taught me three lessons that I like to share:

1. Be impactful from any position

When we think of leaders, we’re typically drawn to images of historical leaders who, from positions of great power, change the world. When I think of being impactful, I think of Mother Teresa, working tirelessly to help those with nothing. Through small acts of kindness and limitless effort, she found ways to be impactful. She could have taken her notoriety and gone anywhere but she chose to stay, in the humblest of conditions, and continue her work. We can all make an impact from wherever we are. How many of us remember a teacher or a coach that impacted our lives? Influential people look for ways to inspire others. They find ways to give to those around them.

2. Prioritize those around you

What do you have to give? Everything, but the most impactful is your time. Take time to give someone a hand. Take time to be a listening ear. Take time to help someone who’s falling behind. Take time to get to know someone. When you prioritize those around you, you make an impact. Small ripples build over time, ultimately creating shock waves. Look for ways you can give at work, with friends and family, and in your community. There are always opportunities for you to prioritize others. My father-in-law ended up on the local news because he would bring in neighbors’ trash cans from the street. No one asked him to. He just saw a need and made the time.

3. Look for ways to be better

SGT Brian didn’t announce that he planned to make such an impact. He didn’t do it in search of praise. He just looked for ways he could be better at his goal of taking care of others. The first thing he did on the deployment was clean and reorganize his kitchen into a work place he was comfortable with. He started small and just looked for the next thing he could do. I remember when he asked if he could attend the operations briefing. I asked him why and with a shrug he simply said, “I want to see where I can help.” It takes time but getting better is a compounding endeavor. The more you do, the better you are. The more opportunities you take, the more impact you make. There are always efficiencies in whatever we do. When we combine our attempts to be more efficient with better ways to be helpful, our impact grows.

During my 2014 deployment, several amazing things happened. Acts of bravery, courage, and fortitude spotlighted the efforts of my teams. I was honored to write several awards for valor for well-deserving Green Berets. The award I was most proud to write was for SGT Brian. When the award was presented, his impact was evident by the volume of cheers and applauds.

I’ve told this story in every organization I’ve been with. The story of a young U.S. Army cook who just wanted to help and, in doing so, made a lasting impact.

SGM (Ret) Joshua Johnson is a 32-year veteran of the U.S. Army Special Forces and now serves as the Sr. VP of Leadership Development for Talent War Group.

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Author: Men’s Journal Editors

The Best NFL Teams to Watch This Season

As the calendar flips to August, NFL training camp season is in full swing, and the league has already started to muscle its way back to being the sun, moon, and stars of the American sports landscape. Hope springs eternal for the 32 NFL teams, even the bad ones, and they’ll be playing preseason games as soon as this Thursday night.

Every training camp spawns its own media industrial complex, because that’s the nature of the NFL’s beast. You may not care who wins a defensive tackle job for the Los Angeles Chargers, but you will have the option of reading several dozen stories about it, and there are thousands of people who will exercise that option. That’s fantastic. But some training camps are more interesting than others, and in that spirit, let’s run through a collection of NFL teams who will give onlookers a lot to talk about as we head into this season.

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Author: Alex Kirshner

The US organ transplant network is built on shaky technology, reports say

KIDNEY TRANSPLANT
Photo by BSIP / Universal Images Group via Getty Images

The nonprofit that runs the organ transplant network in the United States has out-of-date technology and has never been fully audited by the federal government, according to a confidential report obtained by The Washington Post.

The United Network for Organ Sharing (UNOS) has two responsibilities: running the logistical system powering organ transplants and deciding how to prioritize organ distribution. The draft report, which was compiled by the White House’s US Digital Service in January 2021, recommended separating out those two elements under two different contracts, The Washington Post says.

UNOS gets around $6.5 million each year from the Health Resources and Services Administration (HRSA), which oversees the transplant system….

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Author: Nicole Wetsman

What every local wants you to know before traveling to Guadalajara

I have known Guadalajara my whole life, traveling here to visit extended family since the year I was born. As a little girl, it was a place of orange-flavored sodas and chile-covered lollipops, mariachi-serenades for my twenty-something tías (balcony swooning included) and hours spent making tortillas.

The historic center was a place to run and play, to cool off in the Catedral or under a mural in Cabañas, to fill up on chocolate-stuffed cuernos from our favorite bakery. When I began visiting with my American friends, I started to see Guadalajara through different eyes and appreciate its depth and complexity. A colonial city wrapped in a modern metropolis, traffic jams, pickpockets and all; a place steeped in tradition yet standing for inclusion; a city where a night out could include world-class cuisine or bacon-wrapped hot dogs, a symphony concert or a raucous lucha libre match. Guadalajara remains all of this, past and present (chile-covered lollipops included). Here are a few tips to help you make the most out of it.


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Planning your trip to Guadalajara

Plan on (at least) a four-day stay

Sure, you can see Guadalajara’s highlights in a couple of days – most are in the historic center – but stay awhile to check out the city’s colonial-to-hipster neighborhoods, wander through dazzling art museums and outdoor markets, take in some live music and maybe even find your favorite late night taco stand. Check out the tourism office’s cartelera, a comprehensive calendar of events, before you head to town.

Book early for October

The city brims with visitors every October when Guadalajara hosts Fiestas de Octubre, a month-long celebration featuring spectacular live performances, pop-up amusement parks and parades. A long-standing annual pilgrimage to the Basílica de Zapopan, also held in October, adds fuel to the fire when millions of Catholic faithful hit the streets in honor of the venerated icon La Zapopanita. Book your hotel early!

Bring layers (and sometimes an umbrella)

Guadalajara is known for its temperate daytime temperatures, hovering in the 70s and 80s year-round. Evenings are another story. In winter, bring warm clothing and a jacket for the sometimes frigid air. In summer, a light sweater will do. Add an umbrella to your summer packing list, especially in July and August, when afternoon showers are a daily occurrence.

A person wearing a vest and sunglasses looks over a display of cowboy hats at an open-air market in Guadalajara
The open-air market in Guadalajara is the perfect place to spend your Sunday © Cavan Images / Getty Images

Be here on a Sunday

Soak in the local culture on Sundays, a day when the plazas are bustling with street vendors and performers, major streets are closed to cars to make room for walkers and bikers (free bikes are available at Parque Revolución), and Guadalajara’s largest open-air crafts market fills the streets of Tonalá. For a treat, take in an afternoon charreada or lucha libre show.

Don’t rent a car

There’s no need to rent a car in Guadalajara – the traffic can be crushing and walking is often the quickest option. For places further afield, several bus lines and a newly expanded metro system crisscross the city for cheap (M$9.50-15) – use the Moovit app to navigate your way around town. For more comfort, Uber is an easy, affordable option.

Save pesos getting to and from the airport

The cheapest ride to and from Guadalajara’s international airport is by city bus. It can get crowded and makes frequent stops, but it’s a steal at less than a buck a ride. Look for the bus stop in front of the Hotel Casa Grande, 50m from the terminal and take either a “Ruta 176” or “Atasa” bus. Both run to the center of town in about 45 minutes, passing every 15 minutes morning till night.

Etiquette in Guadalajara

Call locals tapatíos

Be in the know and use tapatío to refer to someone or something from Guadalajara. The word is derived from tlapatiotl, meaning “bartering system” in Nahuatl, the language spoken by the region’s original inhabitants.

Greet people

Tapatíos, and Mexicans in general, value pleasantries. Before any interaction – even just entering a shop or restaurant – say “buenos dias” (good morning), “buenas tardes” (good afternoon) or “buenas noches” (good evening). When you leave, “adios” (goodbye), “gracias” (thank you), or “con permiso” (excuse me) is customary. Even if that’s all you say in Spanish, it’ll be deeply appreciated.

A float full of people celebrating and waving rainbow flags during the Pride Parade in Guadalajara, Jalisco, Mexico
Guadalajara has a vibrant LGBTIQ+ scene and throws one of the biggest Pride festivals in Mexico annually © Nicky Redl / Getty Images

This Catholic city isn’t as conservative as you’d expect

Despite its history and reputation as a conservative Catholic city, Guadalajara is also one of the most accepting and inclusive places in Mexico for LGBTIQ+ people. Pride parades and gay bars, openly-owned LGBTQ+ businesses and cultural events are common.

Save your shorts and flip flops for the beach

Unless you’re a kid, wearing shorts or flip flops will peg you as a tourist in Guadalajara. Even on the hottest days, adults just don’t wear them outside their homes. Stick to pants or skirts and wear leather sandals or closed-toe shoes instead. For a night out on the town, dress to impress.

Don’t be shy on the bus

If you’re on a bus without a functioning bell pull (it happens), yell out “bajan” (BA-hahn). Meaning “getting off” it’ll signal the driver to stop at the nearest intersection.

Food stalls selling corn in Hidalgo park (main square) Guadalajara, Mexico
Don’t sleep on Guadalajara’s street food stalls, your favorite meal could be just around the corner © Alamy Stock Photo

Lean into street food

Guadalajara’s early morning street food fave – and sworn-by hangover cure – is the torta ahogada (literally “drowned sandwich”), a baguette-like roll stuffed with slow-roasted pork and drenched in hot sauce. You’ll be tempted to eat it with a fork and knife, but tapatíos use their hands – do like locals do and lean over your plate, like it’s a trough, to avoid splattering yourself. Go the extra mile and tuck a few napkins into your shirt front. It’s not pretty, but you’ll fit right in.

Haggle with kindness

Negotiating prices, especially in markets, is common practice in Guadalajara. Prices will shift slightly or the merchant might throw in a knick-knack. But before your dig in your heels over a few pesos, remember they likely mean a lot more to the vendor than they do to you.

Put TP in the waste basket

Antiquated plumbing in Guadalajara means that flushing toilet paper can often clog the system. If you see an open waste basket in a stall or hotel bathroom, use it for your TP.

Health and safety in Guadalajara

Avoid tap water

Don’t drink the tap water or even use it to brush your teeth. While it’s purified at the source, it can become contaminated as it travels through aging water lines. Instead, use bottled water. That said, there’s no need to worry about ice in restaurants or bars – it’s purchased from commercial ice factories.

Opt for Uber over taxis

Though taxis are easy to hail in the city center, they’re known for ripping off passengers, refusing to use their meters and quoting inflated flat rates. Use Uber instead, which provides reliable service at cheaper rates. If you must take a cab, be sure you agree on the price before you get in – if it seems high, try bargaining or just wait for another taxi.

Be alert for pickpockets

Like most big cities, pickpocketing is a risk on crowded buses and subway trains, markets, and busy streets and plazas. Mercado San Juan de Dios and the post-clubbing scene on Avenida Chapultepec are notorious for petty theft. Stay alert to your surroundings, remembering that pickpockets often work in teams, crowding their victims to distract them. To lessen the risk of being targeted, leave flashy jewelry at home and place your valuables in the hotel safe.

Avoid fringe neighborhoods

Violent crimes aren’t prominent in Guadalajara, especially in touristed areas. But do avoid wandering into fringe neighborhoods on the east side – Colonia Jalisco and Santa Fe in particular are known for their gang activity.

For help, contact your consulate

If you’re a victim of crime, need medical assistance or legal help, contact your consulate or embassy. Almost 50 countries, including the US and Canada, have representatives in Guadalajara that can help you navigate the system or recommend providers.

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Southwest Oregon is a top road trip for outdoor adventurers: here’s the best route to follow

Oregon has no dearth of mindblowing outdoor adventure, from dramatic coasts with vertigo-inducing cliffs to rushing rivers through national forests to high desert. And while the northeast corner of the state gets a lot of the love, southwest Oregon offers an away-from-it-all experience that features the many natural beauties of this state. 

And the best way to do it? By car, of course. The 101 runs the length of the coast and a web of highways and country roads lead inland, connecting national parks, quirky towns, and off-the-beaten-track getaways. 

Here’s our itinerary for a perfect southwest Oregon road trip.

A woman poses with a body board above her head on a sand dune to the left, and a man holds two crabs up to the camer on the right
From sandboarding to fresh seafood, Florence can keep you busy and well-fed © Bailey Freeman

Stop 1: Florence is an atmospheric place to begin your road trip

Book a flight into the little Eugene airport for quick access to the southwest coast – seaside Florence is only an hour and fifteen minutes down the road. Located on the traditional land of the Suislaw people, this small settlement features an atmospheric Main Street with restaurants, confectionaries, art galleries, and even an apothecary. If you’re a fan of seafood, don’t miss Novelli’s, where you can enjoy straight-from-the-ocean whole Dungeness crab and savory seafood chowder right on the dock.

If you’re feeling adventurous, head to Oregon Dunes National Recreation Area right outside of town to sandboard down spectacular dunes at the world’s first sandboarding park, Sand Master Park. Here, they’ve thought of everything – they even have a sandboard designed to work on wet sand, perfect for the inevitable Oregon rainshower. 

Drive to Coos Bay: Head south from Florence on the 101 for about an hour until you reach Coos Bay. Along the way you’ll pass several recreation stop-off options including Umpqua Lighthouse State Park, Umpqua Beach, and the Horsfall Beach Camping Area.

Sea lions sun themselves on the rocks at Cape Arago Cliffs State Park, Coos Bay
Spot the sea lions on the rocks of Cape Arago Cliffs State Park © iStockphoto / Getty Images

Stop 2: Enjoy the scenic coastline around Coos Bay

Coos Bay is a small port town tucked away against its namesake body of water, and it’s an excellent place to slow down and enjoy the subtle beauties of the Oregon coast. If you’re looking for an unconventional accommodation option that puts you right in the middle of Coos Bay’s most beautiful places, book a cabin or Airstream at Bay Point Landing, a glamping getaway that strikes the perfect balance between luxury and outdoor adventure. Wake up with the rising sun to watch the shorebirds fly across the estuary, go crabbing in the nearby waters, or make smores over your own personal fire pit. 

Three state parks sit within a stone’s throw of Coos Bay: Sunset Bay, Shore Acres and Cape Arago. These protected areas show off Oregon’s striking cliff sides and sea-battered rock formations; each park contains short, accessible trails that deliver big views, and you can hike all the way from Sunset Bay to Cape Arago on a continuous out-and-back.

Drive to Port Orford: Head back to the 101 and drive an hour south to arrive at Port Orford; the route veers away from the coast a bit, so this is a straight shot through rural Oregon.

The front of a yellow-and-orange kayak in deep blue waters with the coastline ahead
Port Orford is near Redfish Rocks Marine Reserve © Bailey Freeman

Stop 3: Get out on the water near Port Orford

Port Orford is a small town on a spur of the Oregon Coast that abuts the Redfish Rocks Marine Reserve. If you’ve been yearning to get on the water, now’s your chance – book with South Coast Tours to kayak out around the cliffs and see plum- and tangerine-colored sea stars, anemones, seals, shorebirds and more. Once you’ve worked up an appetite, head over to the Crazy Norwegian for crispy fish and chips, plus a decadent slice of marionberry pie.

Drive to Grants Pass: From here, head south on the 101 to enjoy all the beautiful coastal views you can handle before your journey takes you inland – stop off at the Natural Bridges Viewpoint to stretch your legs before circumnavigating the Rogue River-Siskiyou National Forest on your way to Grants Pass. Your drive will take you down into California right past Jedediah Smith Redwoods State Park, a worthy detour. 

Stop 4: Grants Pass is a gateway to trips on the Rogue River

Grants Pass is an excellent access point for adventures down the Rogue River, a 200-mile waterway that offers everything from a pleasant float to an adrenaline-pumping trip through some of the state’s best rapids. Book with Orange Torpedo Trips for single and multi-day trips; We recommend an outing in one of the inflatable kayaks – it’s perfect for beginners looking to try out whitewater kayaking. 

For a place to rest your head after your epic paddle, head to the Weasku Inn, a historic lodge built in 1924 that played host to many of Hollywood’s Golden Era elite: Clark Gable and Bing Crosby were repeat visitors. 

Drive to Crater Lake National Park: Head east from Grants Pass for 2.5 hours to reach one of Oregon’s treasures: Crater Lake National Park. The route follows OR-62 as it winds up the eastern side of the Cascade Mountains.

A woman sits in a hot spring surrounded by woodland
Umpqua Hot Springs is an excellent place to pause and relax © Getty Images

Stop 5: Crater Lake National Park is full of fantastic outdoor activities

The park’s defining feature is the country’s deepest lake (almost 2000ft deep!), a crystalline body of water inside a volcanic caldera. Admire the view on the Scenic Rim Drive, walk through the historic Rim Village, hike some of the park’s 90 miles of trail, catch a boat out to Wizard’s Island, or take a dip in the lake’s blue waters via the Cleetwood Cove Trail – but be warned, the hike down to the shore is not for the faint of heart.

Drive back to Eugene: The home stretch! Take the 2.5-hour drive back to Eugene. If your bones are aching from all that time in the car, stop off at Umpqua Hot Springs for a relaxing soak.

Stop 6: Hit the nightlife in Eugene

Spend some time in this eccentric university town and you’re bound to find some local treasures. Bike along the Willamette River, grab a brew in the Whiteaker neighborhood, or stop in at Oregon Wine LAB to taste some of the region’s renowned pinot noirs (or a few crisp whites) and stuff your face with amazing eats from Da Nang Vietnamese Eatery. Nightlife also offers some unique twists and turns – hit the Big Dirty to have your rockstar karaoke moment on their atmospheric stage, shoot some pool at Luckey’s Club (one of Oregon’s oldest bars), or catch a show at the Hult Center for the Performing Arts.

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Getting around in Panama is a breeze, whether you travel by bus, boat or the Panama Canal

The isthmus of Panama is compact enough to be crossed in an hour but varied enough to keep you traveling for weeks. It’s one of the most biologically diverse places on earth, yet small enough to fit inside South Carolina. This fascinating Central American country is both tame and fierce, settled and remote, modest and unashamedly grand. 

Despite the tropical setting, getting around Panama is easy enough. The country boasts thousands of kilometers of paved roads, a modern bus network, water taxis, an innovative new Metro train in the capital – and, of course, the Panama Canal. 

Be aware that some parts of Panama are so remote that your only option may be to travel down a crocodile-infested river in a rickety canoe or hack through the undergrowth with a machete. Whether you choose to play it safe or go wild, here’s our guide to getting around Panama. 


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Use buses to travel long distances in Panama

Panama has an affordable and extensive bus network connecting all major mainland destinations. Most intercity buses are 28-seat Toyota Coasters with icy air-conditioning and raucous salsa music. Bulky luggage is strapped to the roof, and there’s an assistant called a pavo (literally, ‘turkey’) to collect fares and help out. The long-distance buses connecting Panama City and David are the best in Central America.

You’ll also find chivas – converted cattle or pickup trucks with hard benches and tarpaulin coverings to keep off the rain. Chivas are typically only seen on the most remote rural routes. Then there are diablo rojos (red devils) – old US school buses, also known as ‘chicken buses’ – pimped-out with neon lights and gaudy artwork.

Chicken buses have been nearly phased out in Panama City but continue to operate in a few areas, including along the central Caribbean Coast. 

Most towns and cities have a downtown terminal. Elsewhere, buses pick up and drop off passengers at concrete shelters on the roadside. Stick out your thumb to flag down a passing bus, and yell “parada” (‘stop’) when you want to get off.

Vividly colorful chicken buses waiting for passengers in Panama
Panama’s vividly colorful ‘chicken buses’ are slowly being phased out, but you’ll still find them on the central Caribbean Coast © Milosz Maslanka / Shutterstock

Tips for traveling out of Panama City by bus

In Panama City, intercity buses depart from the large La Gran Terminal Nacional de Transporte de Panamá in Albrook – a modern, well-designed terminal with a shopping mall and a Metro station attached. 

Every bus route has its own dedicated ticket window. Consult the terminal website for the route operator’s name, telephone number and ticket office number. To pass through the turnstiles to the departure gates, you must pay a US$0.10 tax using the “3-in-1” Rapi-Pass card (no cash).

Purchase the card on arrival at Tocumen Airport or from a Metro station, and can also use it to pay for travel on Metrobuses and trains.

The best time to go to Panama for turtle watching and dance festivals

Tips for taking international buses across Panama’s borders

Ticabus is the main international carrier operating international bus services to San José in Costa Rica and beyond. It takes 16 to 18 hours by bus to travel from Panama City to San José; international buses typically take 1-2 hours to complete customs and immigration formalities at the Paso Canoas border crossing.

If you’re traveling light, it’s quicker to hop between local buses for the trip to San José. Take a local service from the bus terminal in David to Paso Canoas/Frontera (or Puerto Armuelles) – from here (or from nearby Ciudad Neily), long-distance Costa Rican buses connect to San José. Note that the coastal highway through Costa Rica is 4 to 5 hours quicker than the (stunning) mountain route on the old Panamerican Highway, so choose your bus route wisely.

Tourists arrive at Embera village by piragua, Panama
Motorized and pole-steered piraguas are the backbone of transport on Panama’s rivers © P A Thompson / Getty Images

Explore Panama’s rainforest rivers by piragua

Where roads are lacking, dug-out riverboats known as piraguas (or cayucos) are used. Customarily carved from the trunk of a giant ceiba tree, piraguas are commonly found on the jungle-shrouded waterways of mainland Bocas del Toro and Darién Province

The boats are traditionally punted with long sticks, but outboard motors are becoming increasingly popular. Hiring an entire boat with a driver is expensive, and the price will depend on the distance covered, the weight of the cargo, the number of passengers, the engine type and the fuel used. As a rough guide, expect to pay USD$100 to US$250 per day.   

Zip to Bocas del Toro and other islands on pangas and ferries

Motor-powered canoes are widely used to get between offshore islands in Guna Yala. For sea travel almost everywhere else, take a panga – a long, sturdy, open-hulled skiff with space for a dozen or more passengers and luggage. 

The Bocas del Toro archipelago is served by a fleet of high-powered pangas that whizz between the islands and shuttle travelers to and from the mainland port of Almirante. There’s also a daily car ferry, but only Isla Colón has paved roads. Conventional ferries connect Panama City with Taboga island and the Pearl Islands. 

Yachts frequently travel to Colombia via the Caribbean Sea; many have space for passengers and crew but always properly vet the captain and vessel before committing to a trip. Hostel noticeboards often advertise their services. Full and partial transits of the canal are also possible with Panama Marine Adventures.

Traffic heading towards the modern skyline of Panama City, Panama
Driving the busy roads of Panama City can be a daunting experience © Gualberto Becerra / Shutterstock

Hire a car to explore Panama at your leisure

Driving in Panama City is a logistical horror show, but there are many fine road trips throughout the rest of the country. Most major roads are paved but not necessarily well-maintained.

You’ll need 4WD to get off the beaten track, especially during the wet season (April to December), when there’s a heightened risk of landslides and floods. Car rental agencies are widespread in Panama City and David; you’ll pay upwards of US$35 per day for a small vehicle.

Multi-lane highways connect Panama City with Colón, and you can cross from the Pacific to the Caribbean Sea in about an hour when the traffic is clear. In western Panama, a winding transisthmian highway connects Chiriquí Province with Bocas del Toro Province, passing through spectacular scenery as it crosses over the continental divide. 

The Panamerican Highway is the nation’s principal road artery but it’s only paved as far as Yaviza in the east. The lawless forests of the Darién Gap are a no-go area for travelers and you will be detained by the police if you attempt to cross into Colombia.

18 things to know before traveling to Panama

Let the train take the strain along the Panama Canal Railway

Connecting Panama City with the Caribbean Coast terminus of Colón, the Panama Canal Railway is one of the last remaining overland passenger trains in Central America. Inaugurated in 1855, the railway was a major engineering accomplishment that predated the canal by several decades. The glass-domed train takes around an hour to cross the isthmus and there’s one service in each direction every weekday.

Avoid flying in Panama unless you really need to – the planet will thank you!

Domestic flights are comparatively expensive and they carry a hefty carbon footprint too. Panama is compact enough to get around by bus, and there are just a few remote regions that can only be accessed by plane. Air Panama operates flights to every corner of Panama including Darién, Guna Yala, the Pearl Islands, the Azuero Peninsula, Chiriquí and Bocas del Toro. Domestic flights depart from Albrook “Marcos A Gelabert” International Airport, 3.5km (2.2 miles) from Albrook bus terminal; take a taxi to get here.   

Tourists taking photos from the observation car on the Panama Canal Railway
The Panama Canal Railway offers grand views of the Panama Canal as it crosses the isthmus © Barna Tanko / Shutterstock

Why the Panama Canal Railway is my favorite way to travel in Panama

The ride lasts just an hour, but the journey on the Panama Canal Railway is one of the most memorable train journeys ever. The executive cars are fitted with sophisticated wood panels and plush seats while the tourist cars have expansive windows for observing canal infrastructure. 

After rushing through dense tracts of tangled foliage, the line emerges to bracing views of Lake Gatún steeped in early morning mist. Between the cars, there are open windows if you wish to breathe in the rainforest air.

Accessible transportation in Panama

Unlike neighboring Costa Rica, Panama is not a big destination for agencies specializing in excursions for persons with disabilities. Beyond Panama City, there’s little infrastructure for wheelchair users, and even in the capital, the terrible condition of the sidewalks makes getting around a challenge. 

Many large hotels and resorts are equipped with ramps and grab rails, and many attractions are wheelchair-friendly, but long-distance buses don’t have much space. Hiring a vehicle may be the easiest option. For more information on accessible travel, see Lonely Planet’s Accessible Travel Resources.

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The ultimate guide to England’s Jurassic Coast

Take a step back in time – some 185 million years back in time – along the wild and rugged Jurassic Coast in Southwest England.

England’s only natural World Heritage Site, this 95-mile portion of the coast has a name that indicates its geological significance. Running from Exmouth in Devon to Studland Bay in Dorset, its unique rock formations and fossil-rich cliffs amaze visitors from all over the world. And if rocks aren’t your thing, the pristine beaches, charming seaside towns and wide-ranging adventure experiences appeal to just about every kind of traveler.

Here’s all you need to know about visiting the Jurassic Coast, and the best things to do on this beautiful stretch of sand and sea.


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What is the Jurassic Coast?

To understand what makes the Jurassic Coast so special, we need to rewind a bit. Well, more than a bit: think 252 million years.

The rocks along this stretch offer an almost complete record of the Mesozoic Era (roughly 250 to 65 million years ago). They’re visible traces of the enormous environmental changes that played out over the millennia, starting with the Triassic Period (252 to 201 million years ago), when this part of Great Britain was a baking desert and the shifting of the earth’s crust deposited layers of sediment on top of each other. Moving west along the coast, you’ll find rocks formed during the Jurassic Period (201 to 145 million years ago), when the water rose to form a tropical sea.

When the sea levels fell and then rose again during the Cretaceous Period (145 to 66 million years ago), the older rocks were buried beneath newer sandstone and chalk, preserving them until millennia of erosion carved this geological layer cake into the remarkable landscapes we can see today. Fossils of creatures long extinct have also been preserved among the cliffs’ many strata, with more continually being revealed as erosion from wind and waves continues to do its thing.

Children swim on a beach in front of Durdle Door, Jurassic Coast, Dorset, England, United Kingdom
Stop for a swim in front of the iconic Durdle Door rock formation © John Harper / Getty Images

The extraordinary geology is the main attraction of the Jurassic Coast

All along the coast, this incredible history takes shape – literally – in the form of unusual rock formations and beautiful bays. The best-known attraction is Durdle Door, a 200ft-tall limestone arch over the sea linking two remote beaches, and one of Devon’s most popular spots. It’s best viewed from the coast path as you walk over the cliffs from Lulworth Cove, a perfect semi-circle of sea enclosed within bright-white chalk cliffs.

Other geological highlights of the coastline include Old Harry Rocks, chalk stacks that line up with the Needles on the Isle of Wight; the unusual rock layers of Kimmeridge Bay; and Chesil Beach, an 18-mile barrier beach linking the Isle of Portland with the mainland and forming a wildlife-rich brackish-water lagoon at the Fleet.

The towering golden cliffs at West Bay were used as a backdrop for the popular ITV series Broadchurch, while the picturesque harbor and quaint seaside town at Lyme Regis are the heart of Dorset’s fossil-hunting history.

In East Devon, don’t miss Orcombe Point Geoneedle in Exmouth, which marks the beginning of the World Heritage Site, or the distinctive red sandstone sea stacks in Ladram Bay.

Take a walk along the South West Coast Path

Running uninterrupted for 630 miles from Minehead in Somerset to Poole Harbour in Dorset, the South West Coast Path is the UK’s longest National Trail, taking in the full 95 miles of the Jurassic Coast along the way.

Depending on your speed, you can walk the whole route in about 10 days, or choose one or two sections for a shorter coast walk. Try the Golden Cap circular walk to climb the highest point on the south coast of England; hit the wild and rugged cliff paths around Portland Bill; or wander the coastal paths around the Isle of Purbeck, where you can explore disused quarries and unique wild-swimming spots.

Rocks on a beach showing fossils on Ammonite rock, Jurassic Coast, Dorset, England, United Kingdom
At low tide in Lyme Regis, you can see fossils imprinted on rocks on the beach © Andrew Pym / EyeEm / Getty Images

Look for fossils at Lyme Regis and Charmouth

Lyme Regis became a world-famous fossil hunting destination when Mary Anning discovered a near-complete ichthyosaur, a large marine reptile, here around 1836. Today, it’s still a popular spot for fossil collectors, with new finds being discovered all the time. Look out for the “Ammonite Pavement” on Monmouth Beach, when low tide exposes a rock shelf containing hundreds of fossils.

Walk along the beach between Lyme Regis and Charmouth to spot fossils lying among the shingle. Be careful, though: the beach can sometimes be cut off at high tide, and the cliffs are dangerous in places, especially after rain. Amateurs are advised to book a guided fossil-hunting tour rather than go it alone; these can be booked through the Lyme Regis Museum or the Charmouth Heritage Coast Centre.

Make a splash at Kimmeridge Bay’s rock pools

The sweeping curve at Kimmeridge Bay is part of a Marine Special Area of Conservation, making it an excellent location for snorkeling and scuba diving. But you can also explore this rich marine life on the beach itself.

The bay’s distinctive geometric rock shelves and ledges are littered with rock pools at low tide. Don’t miss the Wild Seas Centre, a small, free museum on the slipway, to learn a little more about the local marine life.

Cool off with a spot of wild swimming

Along the Jurassic Coast, experienced wild swimmers will find a wealth of exciting pools and hidden coves to plunge into. Chapman’s Pool and Worbarrow Bay offer remote beaches that can only be reached by walking. For something a little different, head to the tidal pool at Dancing Ledge, a man-made swimming pool that was blasted into a natural rock shelf in the 19th century for the enjoyment of local schoolchildren.

Snorkel with seahorses in Studland Bay

Studland Bay, just beyond the eastern end of the Jurassic Coast, is one of the only known breeding sites for both the spiny and short-snouted seahorse, making it one of the UK’s best snorkel sites. Since the tiny creatures are masters of disguise, patience is key and is often rewarded with sightings, particularly during summer. Approach slowly and take care not to disturb the seahorses or their habitat.

Passengers ride a historic tram on the track beside the Seaton wetlands, Seaton, Devon, England, United Kingdom
Passengers take in views of the wetlands and River Axe estuary from the Seaton Tramway © eye35 stock / Alamy Stock Photo

Hop aboard the historic Seaton Tramway

Take a ride back in time on board the Seaton Tramway, a network of narrow-gauge heritage trams running through the Axe Valley in East Devon. As well as a taste of history, these colorful open-top trams offer brilliant views of the River Axe estuary and Seaton Wetlands nature reserve. Keep an eye out for local birds and wildlife, including kingfishers, herons, foxes and little egrets.

Get the adrenaline pumping with a water-sports adventure

Boasting a mix of sheltered bays and more exposed beaches with great surf, the Jurassic Coast is the perfect destination for adventure. Thrill-seekers should try coasteering at Lulworth Cove for an adrenaline-pumping way to explore the cliffs and rocks. Or hop on a rigid inflatable boat (RIB) at Lyme Bay or Weymouth for a fast-paced tour of the seafront.

Old Harry Rocks, Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove are impressive backdrops for a spot of sea kayaking – though amateurs would be advised to book a guided tour as currents can be challenging. For a gentler ride, Weymouth Bay, Studland Bay and Portland Harbour are more sheltered spots – and ideal for paddleboarding.

You can also try your hand at kitesurfing, windsurfing or sailing lessons at locations along the coast (try Portland or Poole), or take a boat tour from any of the larger harbors for something less hands-on.

A seafood risotto at SEAFAST, The Dorset Seafood Festival, Jurassic Coast, England, United Kingdom
The bounty of the sea is the main event at SEAFEAST, held every September in Weymouth © Stewart Williams / 500px / Getty Images

The best times to visit the Jurassic Coast

Summer offers the best chance of nice weather for beach days and water sports on the Jurassic Coast, as well as a busy program of festivals and events to entice tourists of all interests. Note that since this is the busy season, popular spots like Bournemouth Beach and Durdle Door can be very crowded, especially during the summer school holidays.

While summer can sometimes be too hot for hiking, the spring and autumn shoulder seasons are ideal for coastal walks. Spring is especially lovely, with an array of wildflowers scattered across the grassy headlands and in woodlands. These are also the best times of year to spot both wildlife and fossils.

Numerous food and seafood festivals run along the coast throughout spring and summer. One of the biggest is SEAFEAST, the Dorset Seafood Festival, held on Weymouth’s colorful harborside in September.

Winter is overlooked by most tourists, but if you brave the unpredictable British weather you’ll find there’s still plenty to do. Seals come ashore to breed during the autumn and early-winter months, so keep an eye out when walking (briskly) along the coastal paths.

How to get to the Jurassic Coast

The closest international airports are at Bournemouth, Exeter and Southampton, although most visitors from overseas will likely fly into one of the larger London airports.

If you’re renting a car on arrival, it takes about 2 hours to drive to Bournemouth or Poole. From either of these towns, it’s easy to start a road trip along the coast, calling at whichever villages and attractions take your fancy.

Taking public transport from London to the Jurassic Coast is easy

South Western Railway runs a service from London Waterloo to Weymouth that takes just under 3 hours. From Weymouth, you can use the X53 and X54 Jurassic Coaster buses from First Bus to travel to most towns between Poole and Axminster.

The train from London also stops at Bournemouth and Poole, which place you closer to the eastern end of the Jurassic Coast. From here, you can use the Purbeck Breezer services to reach Studland and the Isle of Purbeck.

The best way to explore the Jurassic Coast is by car

The easiest way to explore the Jurassic Coast is by car, but bear in mind that some of the more remote destinations are accessed by narrow country lanes and may have limited parking.

Many of the busier towns, such as Weymouth and Bournemouth, operate park-and-ride services during summer. Use these to avoid getting caught in seaside traffic in the town centers.

The Jurassic Coast also has an extensive public transport network for those who want to explore without a car. Bus services are fairly frequent and call at most of the major destinations. The Jurassic Coaster buses (First Bus X52, X53 and X54) run between Axminster and Poole, while the Purbeck Breezer (More Bus) services connect Bournemouth and Poole with Swanage, Wareham and the Isle of Purbeck.

There are many accommodation options on the Jurassic Coast

With 95 miles of coastline to explore, you’re spoiled for choice when it comes to choosing a place to stay on the Jurassic Coast.

The largest town around, Weymouth is well connected to the delights of the coast in both directions, making it a good base for exploring the area. Numerous beachfront hotels are close to all the bars and restaurants of the lively town center, while families might want to consider the popular Waterside Holiday Park and Spa on the town outskirts. For those on a budget, the clifftop campsite at nearby Eweleaze Farm boasts some excellent views.

The quaint seaside town of Swanage is ideally poised for exploring Studland Bay and the entire Isle of Purbeck, with accommodation options ranging from a YHA hostel to cosy B&Bs. In nearby Studland, luxury boutique hotel The Pig on the Beach is known for its top-quality restaurant and dazzling sea views.

Towards the eastern end of the Jurassic Coast, Lyme Regis is another popular seaside town with a range of hotels and accommodation options, while Sidmouth offers up the grandeur of a Victorian seaside resort.

For something a little different, try glamping at Durdle Door or in a Lyme Regis beach hut. Fans of quirky history will likely enjoy the Smuggler’s Inn at Studland, a cosy boutique inn and pub which was once a hangout for an infamous local smuggling gang.

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